3 Battery Generating System

[Matthew Jones]

Getting slick there buddy!

[Netica]

Hi there

Hello Turion and Matthew Jones,

I think this is the first time I am posting in this thread and would like to take the opportunity to thank you both for the research and work you have put into this project and your willingness to share it with us all here.
I am looking at doing some work on this as I have been quite interested in the things that have been researched and developed by yourselves.
Like usual I am limited with my time but will try to put some things together, I'll see how it goes.

I have been looking at the 1016, 1020 motor design and have purchased a 1020. It has 20 I-segments and commutator sections.
The 1016 commutator has 16 sections I have divide the 20 sections of the 1020 into 4-1, thats 4 connected together with 1 space then repeat at end connection of wind.
Also divide the windings into 4 sections instead of 3 to give the total of 100 winds giving that I have 20 I-sections. I believe this is what Turion has done.
I have wound the motor with 3 strands of .5mm diameter wire.
Section windings have ended up as - 31,23,23,23 = 100 turns total.

netica

[Matthew Jones]

Hello Turion and Matthew Jones,

I think this is the first time I am posting in this thread and would like to take the opportunity to thank you both for the research and work you have put into this project and your willingness to share it with us all here.
I am looking at doing some work on this as I have been quite interested in the things that have been researched and developed by yourselves.
Like usual I am limited with my time but will try to put some things together, I'll see how it goes.

I have been looking at the 1016, 1020 motor design and have purchased a 1020. It has 20 I-segments and commutator sections.
The 1016 commutator has 16 sections I have divide the 20 sections of the 1020 into 4-1, thats 4 connected together with 1 space then repeat at end connection of wind.
Also divide the windings into 4 sections instead of 3 to give the total of 100 winds giving that I have 20 I-sections. I believe this is what Turion has done.
I have wound the motor with 3 strands of .5mm diameter wire.
Section windings have ended up as - 31,23,23,23 = 100 turns total.

netica

All though there is a lot about power recovery out there I would just tune the back plate for the highest speed and not the most power recovery. Speed is what you want.

The rest sounds real good.

What input voltage was the motor rated for?

Matt

[Netica]

Hi Matt,

The voltage when original was 36v but all that wiring has gone now.

I fired it up today and I was surprised how slow it went with 12V. I checked everything because I expected it to go alot faster after seeing the videos.

To get it going fast it needs much higher voltage at least 36v which wasn't bad, but probably 48v. So I'm not sure if thats how its supposed to be. And I did the timing as well as I have made it easily adjustable. Is this how it should be or is it supposed to be high speed at 12volts?

[Turion]

My1020

I wish I had known you were going to wind an MY1020. I would have given you better info on winding. I don’t have access to my notes because they are in boxes for the move, but I do remember that it has MORE wire than the MY1016.

I believe the first time I wound one I LOOKED at previous MY1016 motors that I had wound and tried to fill the slots just as full of wire. I kept track of the number of turns per slot so that they would all be roughly the same. But since there is one extra set of turns on the MY1020, that’s quite a bit more wire. And that will impact your speed. I run mine on 24 volts.

[Matthew Jones]

I have never wound one so I do not know.

Really what you gotta tell us is whats current draw and RPM, then I might be able to tell ya where to go.

Matt

[Netica]

Turion do you remember if it was 3 stranded or different?
Was it the same gauge wire you used as the 1016?
Anything you may remember would be helpful.

I can only fit around 31 turns in the first section, maybe a couple more but not enough to make any real difference I would say. The other sections I could bring up to 30 winds, but thats only another 20 to 25 or so winds in total.

Matt these are some figures of it running.
12v 1.3A 960rpm
24v 1.5A 1980rpm
36v 2.0A 2880rpm
48v 2.1A 3480rpm


Thanks
netica

[Matthew Jones]

Ya there is something wrong with that Your current should stay about the same all way across the board. I usually run:

12 v 2800 rpms about 1.2 amp
24 v 5200 rpms 1.3 amp
ect...

You may want to check for short to the stator, or you may need to adjust the back plate beyond where the magnets stop the bolts. So you have to use clamps for temporary.
Last check to make sure the commutator sections are not narrower than the brush's. If thats the case you'll have top use 2 for off period.
Dip you bearings in light weight oil, sometimes factory ones are sticky.

I am leaning towards the short because of the current behavior.

Keep me posted.

Matt

[Turion]

Info

I wound with 3 strands and it was AWG # 23 instead of 24. I have lots of spools of 23 for my generator coils, so I used that instead of ordering more wire.

[Netica]

Hi Guys,

I checked for a short after winding and all was ok, It is well insulated all around.
I checked the commutator sections as the brushes are quite wide and although all looked ok I still disconnected another commutator section and had 2 for the off period. It ran quite similar.
I also took the back spring out from behind the bearing just incase the rotor/bearings were tight, I may double check this though, and I made special clamping bolts on the outside so I can adjust for timing.

It runs quite strong and stable at each voltage level. It has some force behind it.

Turin what kind of current draw was your 1020 motor, with and without the generator attached. Did the current go up alot with the generator, If I remember correctly I think i read your set up had around an input of 400watts.

[Turion]

Infp

I have not run the generator with a modified motor in a really long time. Here’s why. When I first replicated the little two coil unit run with the modified motor that Matt built, it worked. So I tried to build a 12 coil machine run by the same motor. The amp draw burnt the motors up. So I got another one, rewound it, and burnt it up within a couple days. It made NO SENSE to me to go through all that work of rewinding the motor and then have it burn up, so I resolved to use STOCK motors until I was sure I had the magnetic cogging issue solved. I even went to a rewound MY1020 and burnt it up. I still have it, minus some chunks of the commutator that blew off when it arced. So the numbers of 24 volts at 12 amps are running a STICK MY1020 on my big 12 coil machine with magnetic cogging eliminated. If you build the generator I detailed in the video the amp draw will be LESS. I guarantee it!!

[Netica]

This is the whole reason I went straight to the 1020, because of your tests which showed that the smaller motor 1016 was not strong enough for a larger generator, so I thought I would go straight to the larger one and familierize myself with it. Also the cost is pretty much the same, and the time to build would be similar anyway.
So I'm thinking that if I can spin the generator up using around 36v I would have the speed, I would loose a little with the step up voltage but I can see the real current draw under load and that would be most important and if it ends up under what you were using I would be on a winner. At the moment its only around 80watts, that will obviously go up but would be worth seeing what results are like.

[axxelxavier]

@All,
Just another quick update on my Battery swapper project, HERE
The wiring & all setup was simplified, a relay initialization bug was solved (all relays was ON at Arduino Boot for about 2 sec!), and a simple stopwatch is showing on the OLED display time passed, for comparing working cycles.
Now it's time to focus on conditional voltage loops...
Best regards.
P.S. Now the link should work

[tachyoncatcher]

Replication

Guys, I promised myself to only share results or help with concrete input in this thread. However, I must break that promise this one time. There are things at work here that are not conventional electrical theory. There is an interplay between the field components of electricity that is not fully understood. When you make changes in the slightest from what Matt and Dave are sharing all results go out the window. That is, unless you know something about the interplay of fields that are not common knowledge. Follow the direction given to the letter and treat this as a proof of concept. They have spent much time and money to get this far. Take advantage of that. When you have a working SYSTEM, then you can work on the concepts that will allow scale. Changing the device, changes the iron mass, the magnetic concentration/compression, the dielectric, the capacitance, etc. All factors and much more. Replicate, then study the WTF. Just saying.

Randy

[ewizard]

@All,
Just another quick update on my Battery swapper project, HERE
The wiring & all setup was simplified, a relay initialization bug was solved (all relays was ON at Arduino Boot for about 2 sec!), and a simple stopwatch is showing on the OLED display time passed, for comparing working cycles.
Now it's time to focus on conditional voltage loops...
Best regards.

Youtube link above does not seem to be working - just get a black youtube screen with an "!"