3 Battery Generating System

[hherby]

Other Boost convertor test configurations

My Goal was to address the differential voltages and simplify the battery rotation scheme by only switching between 2 or 3 24v banks. Also to determine how much (if any) of the losses in the system could be made up for by the boost convertor + cap dumper arrangement.

The boost voltage to the load could be set to a constant 14.9v or higher. It could also be set lower but the load would start out at the max differential voltage minus the output diode voltage drop until battery A+B drops below the boost convertor set point.

The cap in series with the load maintained a steady 10.3v due to the fact the chipset of the boost convertor connected across the cap would cease to function when the source voltage drops to 10.3 volts. I took advantage of that operating characteristic to maintain a higher voltage differential.

I did this some time ago but can't find my test notes so this is from memory.

The comparator cap dumper peak voltage/dump frequency could be adjusted easily for maximum charging rate of battery (bank) C. I had best results by setting the comparator for only a few volts above battery C with several discharges/sec. That was what my batteries (in the shape they were in) seemed to like best.

In Peter Lindeman's SG Beyond presentation, for some reason he didn't include or forgot to mention battery charge/discharge efficiencies as part of the losses in the system. He only mentioned wire/coil resistances and voltage drops across transistors and diodes as the minimal electrical losses that needed to be overcome. He indirectly inferred the DC generator waveform of the constant current followed by a spike would address the charge efficiency of the battery in the charge position.

The boost convertor in concert with the comparator cap dumper boosts the charge efficiency of battery C on the basis of Teslas method of conversion in my opinion. IE, converting a low voltage low current source into high voltage high current impulses to produce a gain.

Recycling the inductor charging current from the negative leg of BC #1 in the second config extends the run time of batteries A and B.

If your load can tolerate the full differential range of 14.9v to 11.7v, you could omit BC #1. Using a cap in series with the load provides a higher voltage differential for the load/ boost convertor + load to work with.

I make no claims on the COP of this arrangement. It would need much more cycle testing than I had time to complete but the experiment looked promising. Your mileage may vary.

Alex

[axxelxavier]

My1016 Current draw

Greetings,
Finally, I had the time to finish my motor winding, epoxy and balancing included. Also, I`ve changed the original bearings with brand new quality bearings. Current draw of the motor, thought, is around 3,8-4 amp at 12 -24 volt.

Edit 1. I forgot to mention - each winding measure 0,4 Ohm, 40 turns+30 turns+30 turns, 24 AWG x 3 wires (actually 0,55 mm - between 23 and 24 AWG).
Edit 2. After sanding the copper contacts, and switching the metallic case of the magnets holder, the current draw dropped to 2,5-2,6 amp. Unfortunately, no tacho available, so no speed measurement.
I added, also, a movie with test nr. 2 of the motor, HERE
I think the current draw can be improved even more.
Edit 3. First test was for one hour, and current draw decrease from 1,8 amp (14 volt differential) to 1,7 amp (12,5 volt differential). VERY INTERESTING - Batt 1 and 2 was 12,7 volt and Batt 3 was 12,1 volt, and all setup run for at least 30 minutes very steady, ALL batts at 12,5 volt. Too bad I had to shut down the motor, IT WAS VERY HOT... I have to find a way to remove the heat from the motor.
Did anybody tried to make some ventilation holes in the plates? just asking...
Best regards,
Teo

[Aaron]

overcoming the typical battery inefficiencies

He indirectly inferred the DC generator waveform of the constant current followed by a spike would address the charge efficiency of the battery in the charge position.

Alex,


Benitez spells that same thing out almost word for word in one of his patents. It is one of the most blatant "free energy" claims I've ever seen in a patent. Our experience shows it is right on the money, in my opinion. Peter spells it out and shows it in the patent in his recent presentation on the Benitez subject.

[Matthew Jones]

Hook that current meter up and adjust the backplate. That current should go down and the speed should go up. All these motors vary slightly and the tuning point for best speed and low current is a little different in each one.

A tach is important most are 15 - 20 dollars
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek®-Profe...eld+tachometer

They help alot.

Good work
Matt

[hherby]

re: overcoming the typical battery inefficiencies

Hi Aaron,
I sent you a PM.
Thanks,
Alex

[hherby]

Robert Alexander Patent US3913004

Hi,
I think I found this patent included in part of a collection of Robert Brandt documents. Is this something that could be incorporated into Matt's motor?
Alex

[axxelxavier]

Hook that current meter up and adjust the backplate. That current should go down and the speed should go up.

Can you be more specific, please? What can I adjust on the backplate? There I have only contacts, brushes and bearing place...
Best regards,
Teodor

[hherby]

Can you be more specific, please? What can I adjust on the backplate? There I have only contacts, brushes and bearing place...
Best regards,
Teodor

axxelxavier,
Matt is talking about adjusting the timing of the motor to advance or retard the firing just like turning the distributor on an older car engine to adjust the spark plug timing. This is done by turning the back plate clockwise or counter clockwise on the motor casing. You make a small adjustment and lock it down. You may have to find a way to clamp the backplate since the bolt holes in the backplate will no longer line up with the bolts. Then run the motor and measure the amp draw and the rpm. Keep adjusting until you get the highest speed and lowest amp draw.
Hope this helps.

Alex

[Turion]

Timing

axel Xavier,
On Matt’s motor you rotate the entire back plate to change the timing. The bolts that hold it together limit this. Many of us have removed the bolts to give us more adjustment range, which makes keeping the motor together difficult.

[axxelxavier]

axxelxavier, Matt is talking about adjusting the timing of the motor [...].This is done by turning the back plate clockwise or counter clockwise on the motor casing. [...]Hope this helps. Alex

Thank you, Alex. How about the heating of the motor, it's normal the motor to be hot after using only 15 min? Last night I had to shut down the motor after one hour of testing, I could make fried eggs on it
Best regards,
Teodor.

[axxelxavier]

axel Xavier, On Matt’s motor you rotate the entire back plate to change the timing. The bolts that hold it together limit this. Many of us have removed the bolts to give us more adjustment range, which makes keeping the motor together difficult.

Thank you for your reply, I will find other way to hold together the motor. Also, not sure how to cool down the motor, it is frustrating to test only one hour... maybe I'm wrong, but because the motor it is so hot I have the impression that is it about to explode...
Edit 1. OK, thank you @Turion and @hherby - I did find a way to hold the motor, which allowed me to find quickly the „sweet spot” of the motor. More details in pictures. Now the motor it`s drawing around 1,3-1,4 amps, and it is time for a longer test, to see if the heating issue is gone or not. A short movie, HERE
Edit 2.After 30 min, the motor seems to heat up much less, and the setup is already in equilibrium - all batts are showing 12,5 volts. This test will continue another 30 min. Tomorrow, another test, this time much longer.
Best regards,
Teodor

[axxelxavier]

Just a quick update: I thought it would be interesting to try to find a way to eliminate the heat, so in the pictures are the results... and a short movie, HERE
After a 15 minutes test with motor hooked up at 24 volts, MY1016 is quite hot, but still operational - before, it was very hot at only 12 volt, also, after 15 min.
Edit 1. After 30 min, it looks like the backplate it's going really hot, also, the both holes from sides generate warm air, so I think this may be the best quick solution to prevent overheating, or to prolong running time. Actually, the spacing between all 4 magnets allow to make 4 holes, even bigger than mine, and the magnets, including the plastic holder, can be removed to make the ventilation holes.
Edit 2. After running very hot one hour at 24 volt, I decided to test the motor at only 12 volts differential (no booster) on 3BGS.
So the motor is running for almost 2 hours, and the last hour is running cooler than previous tests on 12 volts - so I think this mod can be used on 12 volts. For 24 volts, I think the case need more holes between magnets. Some foto with temperatures added, this post in Fahrenheit degrees.

@all,
How long did you keep your MY1016 running?

Best regards,
Teodor

[axxelxavier]

Other pictures, this time in Celsius degrees. The biggest temperatures can be observed in the 4-th picture, with sensor on side hole. Pictures taken at cca 2,4 running time hours.
Very quiet in here...
L.E. Anyway, the motor was running for 4 hours continuously, last 3 hours on 12 volts, and the temperature of the MY1016 is constant, the motor is only warm, as can be seen in pictures.
For 24 volts or for using on big loads, though, some suplimentar ventilation holes must be done on sides. I would make bigger holes, also, on the back plate, because this is warmer than frontplate.
Best regards,
Teodor

[Matthew Jones]

I have run mine for hours on end maybe 8 at the most testing.

The only true way to make the thing cool is to use a ferrite material for the rotor. I have not had a chance to test it though. The material has to be a finer grain 200 mic and mixed and set with fiberglass reinforced epoxy. Maybe mixed at 80/20 epoxy and poured into a 3d printed shell to take shape. No alignment.

Turion started to test it but then had to move his house and thats still a ways out. Not sure when I'll get to it.

Hysteresis caused by the returned power is what causes the heat and no amount of venting is going to change that, just relive it a little.

If you pulling more than 1.3-1.5 amp at 24v while idling something is still wrong but I can't be sure what. Mine runs at 1.4 24v and heats up to 31c at +- 5200 rpms. Its tuned for speed not returned energy.

Matt

[Netica]

Hi Matt, Turion

As far as I understand the modified motor provides a pulse of power back to the positive from where the power comes from, now that has to go through the boost converter before it gets back to the battery, The boost converters have diodes in them because of how they work.
My question is how does the pulse get through the boost converter back to the battery positive, as I can't see how it gets past the boost converter.

netica