3 Battery Generating System

[Majestic81]

Build and test it to find out.....

Hi Matt, Turion

As far as I understand the modified motor provides a pulse of power back to the positive from where the power comes from, now that has to go through the boost converter before it gets back to the battery, The boost converters have diodes in them because of how they work.
My question is how does the pulse get through the boost converter back to the battery positive, as I can't see how it gets past the boost converter.

netica

[Netica]

Build and test it to find out.....

I am doing so, however because I am thinking about it and a part that I am having trouble understanding, and very close to utilising, I thought I would just ask.

I would have to say in all the time I have been on this forum that this is the most unhelpful reply I have ever received. The post wasn't directed to you and although I welcome anyone's input I don't welcome it in the way you have given it.

I can't see the problem in discussing certain aspects of what is being built after all thats the whole point of discussion and learning, not just for myself but others who may be working on the project to bring about a more complete understanding to everyone interested.

[Turion]

My exerience

Maybe if Matt gets a few minutes between explosions he can confirm this, but it has been my exerience with this system that when you have things a certain way it will charge the primaries down the negative leg.

[axxelxavier]

I have run mine for hours on end maybe 8 at the most testing. The only true way to make the thing cool is to use a ferrite material for the rotor. [...] Hysteresis caused by the returned power is what causes the heat and no amount of venting is going to change that, just relive it a little.If you pulling more than 1.3-1.5 amp at 24v while idling something is still wrong but I can't be sure what. Mine runs at 1.4 24v and heats up to 31c at +- 5200 rpms. Its tuned for speed not returned energy.
Matt

It is about tuning, I think. I tried again to fine tune the backplate of the motor, and indeed, the motor draw 1,3 to 1,5 Amp on 3BGS, at 12 volts.
At 24 volt (the motor is connected directly to the booster, so no differential voltage, no 2BGS), the motor is drawing 1,8-1,9 Amp, so I think I can't do better than this except rewinding the rotor with 0,5 mm wire, not 0,55 as mine.
Anyway, the torque is quite impressive - I can't stop the motor by hand, even at 12 volts, so I can start the generator side tests...
Best regards,
Teodor

[sunlight]

HI all

good evening to all finally my account has been activated thanks to the administrators, especially thank you to M.TURION who gave me two motors and parts needed to build the system 3bgs, he paid everything for me , including shipping to africa, i finished rewinding my motors and i wish to have the help needed to start .

Best Regards Sunlight

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Matt, Turion

As far as I understand the modified motor provides a pulse of power back to the positive from where the power comes from, now that has to go through the boost converter before it gets back to the battery, The boost converters have diodes in them because of how they work.
My question is how does the pulse get through the boost converter back to the battery positive, as I can't see how it gets past the boost converter.

netica

I thought I answered this but apparently I didn't complete the post. Sorry... In the case with the boost converter the returned power goes to the smoothing cap at the end of the boost converter. This is less energy the battery has to provide. Reducing the cost.
Most the returned energy is used up in heat from hysteresis thats why the motors get warm. This can be solved but we have not confirmed that yet so I am not going there.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

It is about tuning, I think. I tried again to fine tune the backplate of the motor, and indeed, the motor draw 1,3 to 1,5 Amp on 3BGS, at 12 volts.
At 24 volt (the motor is connected directly to the booster, so no differential voltage, no 2BGS), the motor is drawing 1,8-1,9 Amp, so I think I can't do better than this except rewinding the rotor with 0,5 mm wire, not 0,55 as mine.
Anyway, the torque is quite impressive - I can't stop the motor by hand, even at 12 volts, so I can start the generator side tests...
Best regards,
Teodor

Oh OK, I thought you had wound with "0.5" (or 24 awg actually .511mm). "0.55" is closer to 23 AWG. That would definitely increase the current. More heat too.

https://technick.net/guides/electronics/awg_to_metric/


I apologize I should have included more metric measurements is the instructions. But you know us yanks we're kinda one sided about that stuff. Our way or the highway...LOL.

Matt

Matt

[Netica]

I thought I answered this but apparently I didn't complete the post. Sorry... In the case with the boost converter the returned power goes to the smoothing cap at the end of the boost converter. This is less energy the battery has to provide. Reducing the cost.
Most the returned energy is used up in heat from hysteresis thats why the motors get warm. This can be solved but we have not confirmed that yet so I am not going there.

Matt

Thank you for your help with this Matt.

netica

[axxelxavier]

Oh OK, I thought you had wound with "0.5" (or 24 awg actually .511mm). "0.55" is closer to 23 AWG. Matt

Yeah, actually I used what I have around me, there was no reason to buy different gauge wire.
Best regards,
Teodor

[sunlight]

hello

hello someone can tell me how to test my motor after rewind thank you
best regard sunlight

[Matthew Jones]

hello someone can tell me how to test my motor after rewind thank you
best regard sunlight

Run it at 12 volt and 24 volt. Measure the current should be around 1.3 amp. Then check the rpms should be around 12v 2800 rpms 24v 5000 rpms. If its not there work on it.

Matt

[sunlight]

hello

hello thank you MATT for your advices best regard sunlight

[Netica]

Just thought i'd update on how my 1020 motor has been going.
I found that I did have to have two resting commutator sections instead of one, at low speed it wasn't so noticeable but higher revs showed alot of arcing and problems.
Thin connecting leads was also an issue when I first was trying it out.
All wiring and connectors are high rating now.

It takes alot of voltage to get it up to speed though.
It runs on between 1.2 and 1.3 amps but needing 40volts to hit around 3000rpm
I may have to change the winding to get higher revs at lower voltage but that will bring up the amps.
It is a larger motor so it will always have to be different than the 1016 in its specs. that it will run at.
It pulls around 5 amps at 12 volts before the step up. After being 1.2 to 1.3Amps at 40 volts.
I have got the motor running very smooth. And I think it is very close to the best I will get it for now, although winding another a little different would be good to compare.

netica

[sunlight]

hello need help

hi all I need help, I finished my rewinding of my engine, when I tried to turn the motor, it turns and hangs I did the test under 12v and 24v and he a little warm, I used 24awg wire, I used three strands together to rewind, 40 turns for the first section then 30 turns for the second section and 30 turn for the third section, same for the opposite side, I do not know where I made a mistake.
thank best regard.sunlight

[Matthew Jones]

Just thought i'd update on how my 1020 motor has been going.
I found that I did have to have two resting commutator sections instead of one, at low speed it wasn't so noticeable but higher revs showed alot of arcing and problems.
Thin connecting leads was also an issue when I first was trying it out.
All wiring and connectors are high rating now.

It takes alot of voltage to get it up to speed though.
It runs on between 1.2 and 1.3 amps but needing 40volts to hit around 3000rpm
I may have to change the winding to get higher revs at lower voltage but that will bring up the amps.
It is a larger motor so it will always have to be different than the 1016 in its specs. that it will run at.
It pulls around 5 amps at 12 volts before the step up. After being 1.2 to 1.3Amps at 40 volts.
I have got the motor running very smooth. And I think it is very close to the best I will get it for now, although winding another a little different would be good to compare.

netica

You should have 16 copper spaces on your commutator, 4 should not be hooked to wire. If you only have 2 then the power is shorting out.

hi all I need help, I finished my rewinding of my engine, when I tried to turn the motor, it turns and hangs I did the test under 12v and 24v and he a little warm, I used 24awg wire, I used three strands together to rewind, 40 turns for the first section then 30 turns for the second section and 30 turn for the third section, same for the opposite side, I do not know where I made a mistake.
thank best regard.sunlight

Well obviously if it hangs up when you power it, you got your wire messed up and its jamming the rotor. Rewind the rotor.


Matt