3 Battery Generating System

[Turion]

Correction

YES. #23
I’ll find the link and change ut

[Netica]

Turion,

If you are making an aluminum rotor and you still are using the stationary magnets to prevent the cogging, surely as the aluminum rotor spins, the magnetic field of the stationary magnets will cause drag on the rotor and heat up the rotor.

[BroMikey]

Turion,

If you are making an aluminum rotor and you still are using the stationary magnets to prevent the cogging, surely as the aluminum rotor spins, the magnetic field of the stationary magnets will cause drag on the rotor and heat up the rotor.

Dude if it does heat up a small amount, aluminum is easy to machine
out an 1/8" so magnet shields could be used to stop flux migration.
But it is time to get away from a liquid rotor.

[Pot head]

Netica, hi, I think magnets as bearings are in the right direction but Turion might have another thought.
Water bearings? Good for the sharp mind to build.
Vacuum bearings? Tesla design.
Perhaps Turion will write the answer.
Perhaps a metal tube vacuumed out to 2 atmospheres and injected with water until minus one atmosphere and then set as the core of a coil?
How rediculous, huh?

[bistander]

Eddy current brake

Turion,

If you are making an aluminum rotor and you still are using the stationary magnets to prevent the cogging, surely as the aluminum rotor spins, the magnetic field of the stationary magnets will cause drag on the rotor and heat up the rotor.

Good catch, Netica.

bi

[Turion]

Netica,
That is a really good point. I appreciate you pointing that out. I DO intend to use the opposing magnets so I will definitely have to rethink the use of aluminum. I do NOT want to have to pay for a SECOND rotor.

[BroMikey]

One possibilities so magnets are not flush with the surface of the rotor
"might" keep the flux down to a minimum, however 4" Lexan and 1.5"
shaft and bearing would work also.

Acetal Sheets $268 here for 3" X 14" X 14" probablt to expensive tho.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u751Qmq6li0


https://www.professionalplastics.com...-POMSHEET-RODS

[Turion]

You don't ever, ever, EVER want the magnets to stick out of the rotor. Take it from someone who learned the hard way. If they catch on ANYTHING at high speed, that rotor can EXPLODE. Neos flying at a couple thousand rpm won't go as deep into you as a bullet, but the impact area is a WHOLE LOT bigger. With what I have seen it do to lightweight metal, plastic and wood, I truly FEAR what it will do to flesh and bone.

[BroMikey]

I really do have these same fears of ceramic glass bullets flying
so it is so critical for me to have the magnet shield on mine. Without
a solid steel shield I would be afraid too. Also I would be afraid of a 5/8"
shaft for such a big rotor. If it was me and had all that money use for
this project the shaft and bearings would be over 1" to cut down on
any play.

you know I have not thought enough about this yet having so many
magnets on a rotor of metals. What went thru my mine was to have
a small distance as shown so if it was a metal rotor the opposition
magnetic fields would not have an effect being so far away.

Leaves you one thing to use, non metal rotor, I can't even find any
plastics that thick yet. Lexan would be so much heavier and you
bearings would need to be bigger is all.

There is composite board just as good as steel, I just can't find it
again. It is a higher temperature rated material.

The other guy is right, aluminum would heat up at 1/8" gap really bad.
The shields also now only safe guard against impact of the ceramic but
could reduce the size of the magnets and you are going to need them
with 24 of them side by side anyway.

If I see that (Oflalic?based composite) special board again I'll point
it out to you down the road. Either way being so close together those
magnets might have overlapping fields without a shield.

[Turion]

Update

Found some 4.25 thick x 12" x 12" sheets. Pricy
https://www.eplastics.com/4-250-X-12...k-Acetal-Sheet

I updated the parts list. Not that anyone else's going to build this, but you never know.

[BroMikey]

Found some 4.25 thick x 12" x 12" sheets. Pricy
https://www.eplastics.com/4-250-X-12...k-Acetal-Sheet

I updated the parts list. Not that anyone else's going to build this, but you never know.

Dang nice find, yer good to go, same price as the link I sent you for 3".

Please consider doing some experiments or just treating the whole
thing as an evolving work. I am going to draw it out in a minute, trying
to think how much space is in between the magnets. Maybe there is
enough so no fields overlap. Boy that would be nice, wouldn't it?

That floppy rotor you sent me? Don't want to hurt your feelings
here. Anyway the system you have works so I think you
should stay with that unless you want to build a few little ones?

The same material as the thin floppy one is excellent and I am a good
of mechanical structures. Or some plastic thick enough, plus the magnets
are long cylinders and have all of that surface area to grab not like
standing up a silver dollar and trying to fasten it with the edge only.

Yet even with only a tiny edge it held pretty good so think of how much
better itis going to be. Safer. Here is the way i think lately on my design.

First I like shields (youknow) and I like press fit and magnets inside
steel sleeves have the advantage. First and foremost steel can be struck
and the ceramic glass inside of it will not crack. My only problem is
I want to attach the sleeves first by press fit and then tack weld those
once centered to the rotor disc. So as a compromise I have threaded
sleeves on the outside that could be tack welded also.

So what? Maybe I could come back over my rotors with a nice plastic
cover to shim up the space? Hum... got me thinking on safety.

Yeah $300 bucks is a lot of Maui Waui It's worth it.

[BroMikey]

I will finish later but this is what I wanted to find out.

12" rotor 24 magnets around a 10" circle leaving 1/2" plastic
perimeter = 10" X 3.14 = 31.4" - 24" (the magnets) = 7.4"
left over to evenly space magnets @.308" not enough room
between to keep the fields from overlapping and no room
to come back later to add shields.

Still got 29days left to figure in the math. If you go to a 13" circle
you will have a .57" between so use a 14" rotor, I would say, this
would give you more flexibility in case you had to come back later.

It's yer baby.

http://flyer.thenetteam.net/3batterygen/graphrotor.jpg

[Turion]

Info

Bro Mikey,
Attached is a way to make SURE the magnets do NOT come out of the rotor. In the 41/4” thick material you drill in two inches deep and 3/4 wide from each side. This leaves you 1/4 thick material in the center 3/4 diameter. You drill a 1/2” diameter hole in that material and fill it with a 1/4 thick by 1/2 diameter magnet. This acts as a magnetic link between the two larger magnets. Good luck getting them out!

Also attached is a picture of arotor with magnet centers at rotor centers. This is what needs to happen to fit the construction of the coil holder from the size materials I have shown. As you can see, there is plenty of room between magnets. There needs to be at least a magnet width between magnets , and I have more than that. But I also have only 12 (on each side) magnets on the rotor. I have room for more, so I am going to look at that.

Have you built a rotor WITH iron shielding and one WITHOUT iron shielding around the rotor magnets to measure the difference in coil output? I ask because adding iron shielding basically increased the diameter of the rotor magnet which means you can have FEWER magnets on the rotor. If there IS a gain from using magnetic shielding it is going to be x amount per magnet pass times a number of magnets vs a smaller output times a larger number of magnets. Which gives the most output? I don’t know. I really can’t afford to build two rotors to compare the difference.

Also, it doesn’t have to be 24 magnets or 12 magnets. It can be any even numbered amount.

[Turion]

Reposting Video

I am reposting this video to emphasize a point. When you are running the modified motor on the three battery system, I have said the SIZE of the battery makes a difference. In this video I show two batteries in series charging batteries. If I had only charged one or two batteries, the gain would have been about the same per battery, because of battery impedance in the small batteries, but because I had a LARGE NUMBER of them, I was able to spread the charge energy across ALL of them. That is why I said you need a large deep cycle battery. Because you PAY for the energy (it is pulled out of the two primary batteries) that is used to run the motor and it is going to use the same amount of energy whether you charge ONE high impedance battery or 30 of them. As I showed, you can charge a BUNCH because there energy is THERE, but a single battery can only absorb so much per rotation of the motor. The rest basically goes to ground. You need to think differently if you are going to be successful with this stuff.

https://youtu.be/VMxEUZfncvA


Dave

[Pot head]

I wish the video had analog meters to show the actual voltages before, during and after.