Leedskalnin pmh - help

[zeekr]

Need help with a leedskalnin pmh I built. Iron u rod. Copper windings around each bar of the u. When I attach the leads to a 12 volt tractor battery it totally magnifies and strongly grabs onto a thin iron bar I position between the ends of the u.

When I disconnect the battery, the magnetic pull significantly weakens and barely holds the thin bar - whichs weighs maybe 5 ounces. It gradually slides off.

So it's charging but very weakly. What might I be doing wrong?

Zeek

[Iotayodi]

Is it wired up like this.
http://www.leedskalnin.com/PMH_Wiring_op_800x615.jpg

[zeekr]

Thanks for the word back.

It's wired exactly like that. I'll add that I'm using 50' of solider copper wire on each bar of the U. It's fairly thick wire. Not sure how that factors in.

It definitely magnetizes. If I put a compass against each pole of the U after disconnecting from the battery, it definitely registers a clear N and S. But again, the magnet itself is very very weak compared to when it's got the leads connected to the battery. Nothing like what I see online by other experimenters.

Zeekr

[Nasa Nate]

leedskaldin also very purposely built his choral castle on a ley line. look up ley lines on wiki etc

[Dave45]

What did you use for the core material, Ed said to use soft iron, welding grade would probably be the easiest to find.

[Iotayodi]

What did you use for the core material

Standard 1018 steel works. Its considered "soft iron" because of its low carbon.

What metal did you use for the tubes. You should have aluminum or brass. You should have these tubes fit close over the iron also.

[zeekr]

I didn't use tubes. I wound the copper directly onto the iron u-rod.

Is that my problem?

Zeek

[Iotayodi]

Is that my problem?

Yes. Without the tubes its just an electromagnet.

[myenergetic]

E. Leedskalnin flywheel

Quote:
Originally Posted by T-1000 View Post
A bit off topic but still my post should be interesting who study E. Leedskalnin work:

Help with Ed Leedskalnin Riddle , any idea .

"
Hello,

I am looking for replicators who can assemble E. Leedskalnin flywheel and PMH in a way he did. Please let me know if anyone is willing to do hard work

I think I finally did put puzzle pieces together on E. Leedskalnin generator and we had proof of his fuelless generator almost for 70 years..

So instructions to remake one should be as following:

1) The flywheel is made from same pole magnets what are squizzed together by force to make sharp magnetic poles. Because of that we do not have strong magnetic field in then edges on the magnets. The strongest point is only in place where two same poles are did put together. With resonant spinning they make maximum electricity in PMH and cause no drag. Bye bye Lenz law if I am correct...
2) The 3 poles are fit in depth of PMH.
3) The PMH is inside of metal core (the box in photo). That amplifies magnetic currents (in E. Leedskalnin book).
4) The spark gap is used to take power out of high voltage from PMH on peaks only when magnets are approached already. NO MORE OTHER CONNECTIONS what are killing free oscillation!

The copy of photo is in http://imgbin.org/images/8388.png
Flux Flow Analysis of the Edward Leedskalnin Flywheel | Energy Research

@ T1000 and All

Thank you for your effort. I will try to study outsource and provide a proof of princple

Regards
JJ

[realmikel]

Thanks for the word back.

It's wired exactly like that. I'll add that I'm using 50' of solider copper wire on each bar of the U. It's fairly thick wire. Not sure how that factors in.


Zeekr

He was not just asking about the connections he was also asking about the way the coils are wound. In that picture we know that the coils work as a pmh. Please note the direction of the windings and compare that to yours.

[zilano]

Need help with a leedskalnin pmh I built. Iron u rod. Copper windings around each bar of the u. When I attach the leads to a 12 volt tractor battery it totally magnifies and strongly grabs onto a thin iron bar I position between the ends of the u.

When I disconnect the battery, the magnetic pull significantly weakens and barely holds the thin bar - whichs weighs maybe 5 ounces. It gradually slides off.

So it's charging but very weakly. What might I be doing wrong?

Zeek

use a soft iron core. to make soft iron core put the iron piece u want to use for pmh in fire till it turns red hot i mean the u shape and the bar both pieces then let it cool dont sprinkle water to cool it. just let it cool by itself. when its cold wash it with soap and water and use it as PMH.

rgds

zzzz

[Farmhand]

use a soft iron core. to make soft iron core put the iron piece u want to use for pmh in fire till it turns red hot i mean the u shape and the bar both pieces then let it cool dont sprinkle water to cool it. just let it cool by itself. when its cold wash it with soap and water and use it as PMH.

rgds

zzzz

I think you mean steel, if you put iron or mild steel into a carburising flame
you run the risk of impregnating the surface with carbon which would make
the surface of the iron then become steel. Which could then be case
hardened by quenching in oil or water or with air.

Carburizing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

To anneal steel to it's softest unhardened state the steel should be heated
not in a carburising flame but in an oven or with a neutral flame from an
oxy-acetylene torch or similar, then cooled slowly, even cool air can case
harden steel. Heating iron in a fire will introduce carbon into it's surface and if
you had a piece of soft iron you wouldn't want or need to do that, similarly
putting steel in a fire could introduce more carbon into its surface than it
previously had making it able to be case hardened even more than it already
could be. The steel should be heated in an oven or with a neutral flame if no
more carbon is desired in the surface of the steel.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)

Cheers

P.S. Annealing steel even if done correctly won't reduce the carbon content
of the steel it will just return it to it's unhardened mild steel "state" or condition.
Finding a piece of soft iron or these days would be difficult, annealed steel
with the least % additives like carbon would be best.

If using steel and it is worked by bending or hammering it can be work
hardened and then require annealing, This happens because of the changes to
the crystalline structure of the steel. The way to avoid that is to bend slowly
and not hammer so no heat is produced, or to bend hot and cool slow or just
anneal the whole thing after the shaping is finished. Hammering and bending
cause intense localized heating followed by rapid cooling, as well as compaction.

..

[Iotayodi]

I had a 3/4" heated 1018 steel pmh formed. It works well. It can be formed with just a bender and would probably be better. 1018 has been a standard low carbon for many many years. Its not as low as wrought iron but wrought iron is real expensive.

[Farmhand]

Hi Iotayodi, Yes 1018 grade mild steel should work just fine for a pmh.

http://www.eaglesteel.com/download/t...eel_Grades.pdf

1018 Mild (low-carbon) steel

Minimum Properties

Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi 63,800
Yield Strength, psi 53,700
Elongation 15.0%
Rockwell Hardness B71

Chemistry

Iron (Fe) 98.81 - 99.26%
Carbon (C) 0.18%
Manganese (Mn) 0.6 - 0.9%
Phosphorus (P) 0.04% max
Sulfur (S) 0.05% max

Cheers

[Slider2732]

You don't have to use steel, but it's preferable.
Ferrite works, the inner pieces of transformers will often have a T shape and a U shape that fit together.
I used the U piece in this short video: Leedskalnin effect - with ferrite - YouTube
Didn't know any different really, as it was all a fresh learning experience

A piece of advice might be - if you connect your battery and hear the top piece click, then your problem is most likely in the strength of the coils. Your top piece may be too heavy/wrong material etc also.
If you do get the click, then perhaps use something lighter.
Also, whatever is to be magnetized on the top should be as flat as possible on the contact side, to make the best contact with the U shape.