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Jes Ascanius Radiant collector

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  • #61
    Originally posted by priyoy View Post
    just google "how to trickle charge a battery"

    basically u need about 12v-13v if ur battery is 12v. constant trickling amperage will eventually fill up ur battery. connect (+) to (+) and (-) to (-).
    Thanks for the tip pal, I learned about trickle charge thanks to you.

    But here we need to charge an discharged battery.
    As wikipedia states;
    "Trickle charging, means charging a fully charged battery under no-load at a rate equal to its self-discharge rate".

    If I use a 13V or 14V capacitor on the load and discharge it to the battery when it is fully charged, will I be able to charge the battery?

    Thanks

    Comment


    • #62
      ill have to check tomorrow, the copper piping is for the house, the tap is on the side of the wall but goes under the decking, we use all plastic piping to the tank and up to our spring

      Comment


      • #63
        Originally posted by C_J View Post

        If I use a 13V or 14V capacitor on the load and discharge it to the battery when it is fully charged, will I be able to charge the battery?
        yea, in fact pulsed charging is more efficient than constant charging.. but please do check the current (amp) that is being discharge, do not exceed 10% of the AH value of your battery, if it exceeds, add more battery to be charged.

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        • #64
          Originally posted by priyoy View Post
          yea, in fact pulsed charging is more efficient than constant charging.. but please do check the current (amp) that is being discharge, do not exceed 10% of the AH value of your battery, if it exceeds, add more battery to be charged.
          Thanks priyoy,

          My current is at 5mA. Bettery is 12V 60AH.
          Will this current be enough to charge the battery?

          Comment


          • #65
            Originally posted by Ascanius View Post
            Hi.
            I am Jes Ascanius
            And no one off you ladies does what i write, instead you try to get something else working that is not at all as i describe and then come here to ask each other in vain most of the time, because you ask a myth as what you ask is not what you have made!!!

            Please do exactly as i do and it works, if you do something yourself that is not like the way i show it, that is why it properly does not work.

            So funny to see some of you write that there nowhere stands that the suspended plate has to be isolated.

            THAT STANDS IN CLEAR WRITING IN PJK BOOK!
            As someone saw and wrote :-) good thing someone still can use their eyes!

            Key notes:
            POLISHED aluminium plate

            Henged on NYLON Robes/strings

            "8" gauge solid cooper leads, "4" gauge is a absolute minimum and you folks use leads that are so tiny it can never work!

            Large ground connections

            Please do see the pictures and videos of the system running from my live space!
            https://profile.live.com/cid-5b0f8c4...94e9&sc=photos

            Everytime i see someones replication, the suspended plate or wire is infantly small or low placed, eventhough i clearly state that either much larger or much higher up?

            Also it depends on ionospheric pressure, meaning that low wet regions are just as awfull as high dry regions are wonderfull for such radient systems, so where one mand has a 60 x 60 aluminium plate on his artic to charge a phone, somewhere else that gets even more power and somewhere it is like it does not even work, so if it is to humid and you cant get it up real high without any aetheric connection to ground, then forget about it, it is not going to work.

            Polish the aluminiumplate often or see the power collection fall, polishing it to high polish and keeping it polished, so use 2-3 mm aluminium plaets, the you can polish them all you want over decades.

            It must be dry polishing, no wax - no nothing but what you polish with.
            I use a centergrinder, one of those round thingies that you can buy cheap in every buildermarked that both vibrates and turns, finer and finer paper, when the finest paper is used i do nothing more but wash and rub them with clean cutton and isopropyl alkhohol, then polish it slightly again afterwards just witj clean cutton.

            So how come someone write here in this lovely forum that there stands nothing about it in PJK Book???

            The number one reson that many cannot find out how things work and cannot even replicate tyhings that are clearly stated?

            I know from long experience the truth, here it is folks:

            Retardment!
            Retardment here talked about is remebering false memories, not being able to remember, not being able to calculate, not being able to visualise and other lovely faculty difficulties!

            Please never listen to people that are the so called "lamers" they are in reallity far more involved in pumping their ego rather than trying to get something to work wich it seems like they are posting about, but it is not, they are there for getting reflection before it is earned truely, whicked people is another word, they grow more and more by time right now untill we all descide to change, so please recognice them, sort them out and go only where real truth is, where something real is made and documented, never listen to those youtubers, but listen to people whom have read books for many years or have REALLY been using houers every day for years to find out about something.

            That has been the way i initially got this working, that is also how i get anything else working, by reading and doing A LOT for YEARS, sorting out, trying out, no manual, just the thinking ultra logically through Hermetic rules / Axioms and one can find out about just about anything i woukd guess, but you have to be senseer, really trying, because you only get as much back as you REALLY try and also you get just as little as you try.

            Sorry for my bad english among other things ;-)
            But Homo Sapiens, Maat, the civil abe listen more when you roughen them up, it must be a side effect for being driven mainly by fear to enlarge the sphere for at least 50.000 years.

            Homo Sapiens, the first Atom bomb driven biological creature, just bombing its way through anyone/anything else untill it is purely alone and have erradicated the last spek of dust in the entire physical universe.

            Allalus face on mars wheaps for the lacking actions of the son of Enlil/Enki, that he could not defeat Marduk, that they most flee to far far away land, and here we are left, with Marduk, god of war, lots of Atom boms.

            Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!
            How we made it, how we are great, how we will surely prosper, how every day a new kind of tree or plant, animal or insect springs forth from creation........................OR NOT!!

            Insanity, Confusius, the mind of madness, out!

            P.S.
            Something worth trying!
            Limestone, incapsule metal plate behind limestone and use it as a collector, the radient inflow is very large indeed, but nothing sure to talk about just yet.
            Very well said Jes, very well

            Comment


            • #66
              Good info

              Many thanks, Jes. I've been working on this but had very poor results. That is apparently due to my location - 187Ft (57m) above sea level and very humid climate about 50 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Our predominate winds are from the southeast which blows moisture from the gulf into our area. So I guess this is not for me. I was only able to get 4.7mV to 6.8mV with very slow charge rates over a week of readings and different weather conditions.

              Some notes for others:
              The document I saw about this specified wire in SWG gauges, not AWG gauges and they are different. #6 AWG is somewhat equivalent to #8 SWG. The document specifies 4mm diameter but #6 AWG is 4.11538mm. There is no direct equivalent to #8 SWG. Wire Gauge Reference Table

              I couldn't find a #6 AWG solid that was insulated. Here in America that is usually bare and used for grounding. #6 AWG and larger that are insulated are usually stranded. Is stranded useable as is or maybe use a larger wire of stranded? How critical is the insulation on the ground side? Could one use heat shrink tubing to insulate a solid wire? Would that be sufficient? Possibly wrap the heat shrink overlaps with electrical tape to help keep moisture out.

              It would be helpful if someone with the knowledge of how this works could go through the specs and convert them to U.S. and resolve discrepancies to what is available in U.S.

              The photos at https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=5b0f8...1166&sc=photos are very helpful also.

              The document I have only shows ground rods but photos show a large ground plate. I suspect that makes a huge difference.

              Excellent idea for spark gap.

              Comment


              • #67
                voltage is determined by height of the plate, amperage determined by the surface area of the plate. If you want more voltage, get it higher.

                Stranded wire should work fine, and in reality, for high voltage, it might actually be better.

                Comment


                • #68
                  PJK book

                  Originally posted by Ascanius View Post
                  THAT STANDS IN CLEAR WRITING IN PJK BOOK!
                  Jes, could you please give full title of PJK book and where it can be found?

                  I found your circuit in the Practical Guide to Free-Energy Devices - Chapter 7 web page. It seems to have some things wrong.

                  I would like to go to the source.

                  Thanks in advance.

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    Materials

                    Originally posted by velacreations View Post
                    Stranded wire should work fine, and in reality, for high voltage, it might actually be better.
                    Do you have any idea about material variances, say aluminum vs copper wire? I have 40 feet of 00 stranded AWG insulated aluminum but I would have to buy fittings. The fittings easily available are brass but I'm not sure if inter-mixing the materials would have negative effects.

                    I can get #4 or #6 AWG solid copper but they are uninsulated. I'm wondering if heat-shrink tubing would be sufficient insulation. It looks like Jes Ascanius is using copper tubing for his ground connection and it is insulated but I didn't see any detail on the insulation.

                    BTW I figured out that "PJK book" was the author's initials rather than the title. Duh.

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      If I may add my 2 cents worth on lightning protection

                      If I may add my 2 cents on Lightning Protection, with regard to putting up antennas, etc. to accumulate radiant energy:

                      It should be noted that any pointed object on or near the ground may put up streamers towards the overhead lightning bearing clouds.

                      If those streamers are long enough and strong enough, they may connect with the downward stepping and forking lightning bolt trying to reach ground, form a connection with it, and open a pathway for a full strike.

                      (When I say pointed objects near the ground, that includes lightning rods, sharp corners of buildings, cast iron sewer pipe extensions on a roof, branches of bushes, tree tops, etc.)

                      Just how strong those upward streamers are and how long they will reach upward towards the clouds (thus chancing to meet up with a downward bolt and forming a connection with it) depends on how conductive the path to ground is from the point where the streamer begins. The more conductive it is the stronger and longer the streamer will be (some times reaching several hundred feet long).

                      So putting up lightning rods, especially if the cable is not big enough and/or the needed grounding plate is not properly installed, may actually attract the downward flowing lightning as that bolt branches out seeking ground and cause the damage you were trying to prevent. Especially, if your antenna system has produced a strong enough upward streamer to attract the downward step bolt in the first place.

                      Please remember when a bolt does come down to the Earth, it usually sends out branches, even as it begins its strike, that seek out additional grounding points, instead of just a single jagged bolt. Lightning bolts can reach out for ground up to 10 to 20 miles from the cloud that is causing the downward bolt.

                      If your antenna system is within 50 to 100 feet of the building(s) you do not want struck and for which you want to install lightning protection, I would highly recommend that you have such a system installed by a lightning professional. It would be a pity to go to the expense of installing it yourself, only to find out you didn't do so properly and attracted lightning damage instead of defending against it. Lightning rods are not installed to PREVENT a lightning strikes, only to provide a safe, low resistance and damage free path for the strike to reach ground, if one occurs. Lightning rod systems also send up streamers, sometimes very strong ones.

                      I have included some links that you might want to view and/or read including one for a free pdf copy of an Army manual on lightning protection.

                      (1) Short videos showing upward streamers and slow motion lightning:

                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=RDDfkKEa2ls

                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=RLWIBrweSU8

                      Upward Lightning filmed at 7,207 images per second - YouTube

                      (2) Reading material on lightning:

                      NWS Lightning Safety: Indoors

                      The AM Window: Tech: General: Lightning Protection

                      (3) US Army's free pdf on lightning protection:

                      http://www.lightningsafety.com/nlsi_pls

                      Hopefully this info will prove useful and be non-offensive.
                      Last edited by rickinva; 11-06-2012, 07:01 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        Originally posted by Granitehead View Post
                        Thank you slider and power for the input

                        Firstly i made a change yesterday to the airial wire went to single core wire, still not at the 8SWG suggested, since here in RSA they dont sell it, our electricity regulation forbid single core cable, but only multistrand, so the best i could get was 2.5mm.

                        Also chagned all my leads to my workbench to the same cable, added another plate, so now have 2 Aliminium plates 5 meters up both 970mm X 39mm. The earthing still the same have found a supplier so will get solid copper rods for both the first and second earth, but that depends on price

                        Measuring from the leads the results are not that much better than my 6mm multistrand, V = .33 - .35 and amps from 3 mA - 3.5 mA (this is measuring the connecting cables no circuit)

                        Will test your putting the mains off theory on the weekend, but here is a very interesting one.

                        A circuit with FWBR and a 220uF,25V cap gave me low Voltage and High Amps, so i combined a Jess circuit with this, now my Amp reading have gone up from 100u to 5mA for one circuit, and the Voltage a little up.

                        Secondly the diodes do make a difference, I built 2 of these one with 1N4007 and one with 1N60P germanium diodes, nearly 50% improvement with the Germanium Diodes.

                        The result of the above is I can now have a LED lit up nearly 24/7 (4.5V,30m

                        [ATTACH]11929[/ATTACH]
                        Granite thanks for sharing. Can you please post your schematic? Regarding aerial would be wise not too get it very high up to avoid lightning.
                        Thanks

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Elevation above sea level

                          @Granitehead
                          What is your elevation above sea level? Note the quote from Jes Ascanius posting above: 'Also it depends on ionospheric pressure, meaning that low wet regions are just as awfull as high dry regions are wonderfull for such radient systems...'

                          This is not metioned in the book I downloaded but I don't yet have the latest.

                          This link explains why elevation is important:
                          http://quarknet.fnal.gov/resources/Q...hamberV1_4.pdf

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            elevation can not play a part in it, tesla said in his own words that the ionosphere is impossible to reach, also if it was, how were ships ment to be powered from this? they are floating ON sea level. im looking at the water now and i can make alot of energy, when i get a new meter ill post my new device,i think it is pointless in posting with out proof of concept so ill have to wait.

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              I've built Ascanius's circuit. Ok I am using copper rounded wire on a plate not exact as described. The thing is a little voltage is coming but when touching with my MM to check it goes down.

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                Hi to all, new to this thread i am in Australia. A reply to Jes, your system does work if followed and people should read the article fully you wrote, instead of just skipping through it. Great work on your behalf. Also they should look at exactly what NikolaTesla said. I once read that you have to decifier his writings also for hidden clues.
                                One clue all aparratus of aerial collector should be vertically inline, my understanding is that the collector, antenna lead and ground should be directly vertical to one another as the radiant energy travels down from the collector and radially down the wire in a straight line. Chapter 5 page 140 PJK BOOK FREE ENERGY DEVICES. I suugest reading this book so you get more of an understanding of how it all works.
                                Another thing i would like to stress is that electricity kills very easy. For those who are connecting their earth from there modules to an earth socket in their house you are playing with fire. The earth connection in your house is connected to the neutral wire so your safety switchs take fault currents to ground. If your house earth connection is leaky there is potential that a fault current from a faulty appliance can be feed back through your earth connection on the radiant energy device on your bench using your earth connection as a ground. Here in Australia that is 240 volts which can be fatal. Please donot connect any part of this to your house electrical supply including the earth. Keep completly seperate.
                                If you connect to house wall socket earth and you get a voltage rise your house earth is leaking and not working correctly. If you have a dink of water from tap directly and get a tingle feeling your earth to ground for your house is faulty.
                                Tesla experiments where designed to be stand alone units that created electricity on their own without out side influence (FREE ENERGY) self explanatory.
                                To think back in the 1800's they found the ANSWERS without all the technology today and here we are today struggling to find the most basic of answers. Just imagine if Tesla had a 555 chip, but then again he didnot need it nor did all the others. Sometimes modern electronic components just cannot cut it, that is why they still use the old valves in really high quality amplifiers and high output electronics.

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