Jes Ascanius Radiant collector

[thx1138]

50 module circuit board

Jes; I am trying to build the Dragan Kljajic circuit board with the 50 modules on circuit board but, I am having difficulty in finding the printed circuit board he used. Do you have any idea of where to buy the circuit board? Thank You David H.

He probably either made it himself or had a job shop do it.

I'm in the U.S. and use ExpressPCB for my PCB's. They have several production options at different prices. Their schematic and PCB layout software is proprietary but free. Once you complete the project you order the PCB's over the internet and pay with a credit card. They only ship in the U.S. though so it's dependent on where you live. ExpressPCB - Free PCB layout software - Low cost circuit boards - Top quality PCB manufacturing

I have some ExpressPCB files with the circuit on them but you'll need to download their software to work with or order them. In fact I just received some prototype boards today but haven't populated them yet.

Of course you could just breadboard them if you have the patience. I didn't.

[Guruji]

Thx1138 you had good results with Jes's circuit?
Thanks

[thx1138]

Thx1138 you had good results with Jes's circuit?
Thanks

Not really but I think it's because my elevation is only 150 feet above sea level and in a fairly humid area. The further the charged particles travel through the atmosphere to reach the elevated plate, the more energy they lose. Ditto the humidity. Jes made mention of it in an earlier post. He said it works good in a high, dry environment and it does poorly in a low, humid environment. See this link and look at the drawing titled

Primary cosmic particle collides with a molecule of atmosphere.

on the right side about a third of the way down. Cosmic ray - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I have a brother-in-law who has some rural property up in the mountains near Colorado Springs. His driveway is +7000 feet per my GPS so I'm going to try to go there this summer.

The other thing I want to try is a buried steel plate for the ground. I can't do that at my city location. In my city location I only have ground rods. But I have some rural property where I will try the buried steel plate also. The elevation there is only 180 feet so I'm not expecting much change but any improvement would mostly be attributable to the plate rather than elevation change. It is usually a bit less humid there so that will be a factor also.

I figure the more tweaking I do with what I have before I go to Colorado, the better the results will be when I get there.

[David H.]

THX1138: Thanks for the reply. I am in southern california desert are. You seem to know about circuit boards. Do you think that Express PCB would make a circuit board like Jes's 50 unit board for me if I sent the schematic to Jes's board to them? I would probably never be able to make a board schematic myself. And Jes's is already made and printable.

[turbogt16v]

i have a question for Tesla ReGen or someone who can help

you posted this picture

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...chmentid=13000

and you said you only need 2 diods which one pair of D1 D2 or D3 D4

What kind of ground did u use.

you said that 2 electrolit are 1000mF with more than 100v,
but what is voltage of 2 bipolar 10-50mf

metal coil that is used as part of antenna is wounded with wire,but how
horizontal or vertical ..

and the last question ,if get this working you said it will give 100v 300W,
how to connect it to normal electrical socket that will give enough and
stable power to run TV for example,

Greetings from Croatia....

[thx1138]

Circuit boards

THX1138: Thanks for the reply. I am in southern california desert are. You seem to know about circuit boards. Do you think that Express PCB would make a circuit board like Jes's 50 unit board for me if I sent the schematic to Jes's board to them? I would probably never be able to make a board schematic myself. And Jes's is already made and printable.

No, they won't do it for you and their system only works with files created with their proprietary software. That's what keeps their boards so cheap. It's really not that hard and software is a free download. It's pretty much just drag and drop the components onto the board, align them, and then connect the pins with traces. You should give it a try.

I'm working on some larger boards that I can share but they are not ready yet.

[David H.]

thx1138: I have been trying to do the boards as you suggested and am a complete failure. But, it is fun trying. It seems experience tells. If you get some boards I would be glad to buy some from you to maybe help get your cost down. If not I will try to do the Lawrence Rayburn model. I have been studying his set up for a while also. I wonder what ever became of him. I can't find anything since I guess 2003 about him.

[thx1138]

Circuit boards

thx1138: I have been trying to do the boards as you suggested and am a complete failure. But, it is fun trying. It seems experience tells. If you get some boards I would be glad to buy some from you to maybe help get your cost down. If not I will try to do the Lawrence Rayburn model. I have been studying his set up for a while also. I wonder what ever became of him. I can't find anything since I guess 2003 about him.

I have about finished the boards so hang tight and I'll upload them here.

I looked at the TREC but it didn't seem like a reasonable cost for an experiment. I priced out the materials and equipment about a year ago and it came out around $6000 buying everything new and he didn't have a working system at that time. He was, or is, a lineman and so has access to a lot of stuff I would have to buy.

I'm also leery about any kind of "ionized channel" to the ionosphere. Think that through and you'll see it's not feasible. The last I looked (last year) he was still working on it but didn't have a working project. It is now hosted on a Yahoo group: OneSmallStepForMan.

A lot of people confuse Dr. Tesla's "radiant energy" and his wireless transmission of energy and think they are related. They are, but not in the way most people think. Wardencliffe had nothing to do with radiant energy. It was about wireless transmission of energy generated by whatever means. All the lightning bolts shown in the Wardencliffe drawings were incorrect. Wardencliffe would have transmitted energy via the ground, not the atmosphere. Dr. Tesla did have a patent for transmitting energy through the atmosphere using ballons maintained at 30,000 feet. It's the balloons that everyone skips over. In the patent he even staes that the method of maintaining the balloons would have to be developed. He never tried to implement it but, interestingly, his Colorado Springs notes have entries for using electricity to generate the hydrogen for the balloons. But on July 4, 1899 he discovered he could do the same thing using the crust of the earth thus negating the need for the balloons. It's probably a good thing he didn't try to implement it because the jet stream was unknown at that time. Think about an ionized channel to the ionosphere, or a balloon for that matter, and the jet stream that can have winds up to 250 MPH.

Radiant energy collection is about fuelless generation of power via cosmic rays. Hydroelectric power is another kind of fuelless power generation. It harnesses gravity via falling water. Collecting radiant energy is best accomplished at higher altitudes. The higher the altitude above sea level the more successful it will be. Because of that necessity it is geographically dependent on elevation like hydroelectric power that needs water falls. That geographical dependence of industrial scale energy generation at higher altitudes necessitates transmission to where it will be consumed. Remember that Dr. Tesla was always working on industrial scale power. He considered the power consumed by a town "small".

Anyway, hang tight and I'll get the boards uploaded some time this week. I'm doing a couple of different versions with different phyically sized capacitors. Do you have your capacitors and diodes yet? If so, let me know their pins sizes and spacing to make sure they will fit the boards. If not, make sure you can get what you need in your area or online and let me know the sizes. It seems the 1N34a diodes are getting hard to come by. One of the things I always do is acquire the components to make sure they will fit the board I have laid out before I order the circuit boards. You can print the boards at full size and just lay the components on the printed sheet to make sure they will fit.

[turbogt16v]

hy people could someone give me the complete parts name

2 condensators

2 elertolite

4 diode (shocky or what)

3 or 1 plate

.would be gratefull tu build it to be agle to power 12 v,thanks

[Cavy]

Hi all!

I have a relatively high attitude house in the mountains (600m above sea level), and it's mostly dry through all the year. Plus, there's a small stream flowing nearby which I could use to moisturize ground for better earth contact.

Considering all I've read so far, I have a very good site to start experimenting with Jes' circuit. Getting components or assembling a PCB (even SMD!) is not a problem. But before I plunge into the netherworld, here are my doubtful questions:

- use plate as antenna, according to Jes Ascari's original plan, or
- use bi-fillar coil, as Tesla_ReGen advised

Is it really important to use solid wire from antenna, or a stranded can also be used? Maybe because the specifics of telluric currents require to use a solid cooper.

What about multiple grounds? Can you use a similar circuit connected between 2 distant ground points (instead of ground-antenna)..? Something like an extremely simplified Kapanadze generator.

Lastly, can an underground well/water deposit be used as a better ground point?

Greetings from Serbia

[thx1138]

hy people could someone give me the complete parts name

2 condensators

2 elertolite

4 diode (shocky or what)

3 or 1 plate

.would be gratefull tu build it to be agle to power 12 v,thanks

Per Jes Ascanius and the specifications in the book for each module:
2 non-polarized capacitors (condensers) - 200nF (0.2uF), 200 V
2 electrolytic capacitors (condensers) - 100uF, 50 V
4 1n34a diodes

The wire to the elevated plate and the ground connection should be a minimum of 8SWG or 6AWG (~4mm diameter). The wire should be solid, insulated copper wire.

This system harvests energy from the local environment so there is no way to tell what will produce 12V in your environment. Three things affect the outcome: 1) the height of the elevated plate above ground; 2) the size and/or number of the elevated plates; and 3) the quality and size of the ground connections.

The larger the area of the elevated plate, the better. The higher the elevated plate is above ground, the better. The better and larger your ground connections, the better your results will be.

The better those three features are, the fewer modules you will need. The poorer those features are in your location, the more modules you will need.

I believe two other factrrs are also important - your elevation above sea level and the normal relative humidity in your area. Jes said in an earlier post that the higher the elevation above sea level and dryer the climate, the better the results will be.

Probably what you should do is build a small scale test system, measure the results in your location, and adjust as necessary to reach your objective. But be aware that it may become quite expensive to gain anything if you are at a low elevation and in a humid climate.

[thx1138]

Cavy questions - my two cents worth

Hi all!

I have a relatively high attitude house in the mountains (600m above sea level), and it's mostly dry through all the year. Plus, there's a small stream flowing nearby which I could use to moisturize ground for better earth contact.

Considering all I've read so far, I have a very good site to start experimenting with Jes' circuit. Getting components or assembling a PCB (even SMD!) is not a problem. But before I plunge into the netherworld, here are my doubtful questions:

- use plate as antenna, according to Jes Ascari's original plan, or
- use bi-fillar coil, as Tesla_ReGen advised
I haven't seen anything from Tesla_ReGen but drawings so I'm not sure he has built anything. I would stick with Jes's plans for now and maybe use a coil later.

Is it really important to use solid wire from antenna, or a stranded can also be used? Maybe because the specifics of telluric currents require to use a solid cooper.
I'm not sure about this but plan on experimenting with it. For now I'm using 4 AWG solid copper. It's a specialty item in the U.S. so I use bare copper wire and cover it with heat shrink tubing. Jes says solid is important so I think that is the place to start. Also see the next item about solid vs stranded.

What about multiple grounds? Can you use a similar circuit connected between 2 distant ground points (instead of ground-antenna)..? Something like an extremely simplified Kapanadze generator.
I hadn't thought about that but it would seem so. My understanding is the more ground contact you have, the better. Jes had some photos posted at one time that showed copper tubing insulated somehow - maybe heat shrink tubing on the outside. I don't know about the inside of the tubing. The insulated tubing was from the buried ground plate up to a connector above the surface that went to the rest of the circuit through a single connection. He had three of them connected to his ground plate. He has since taken the photos down however. So that's not solid but it's not stranded either. It does give larger surface area at less cost. I think the below ground insulation was to keep the charge collected from the soil from equalizing with other charges in the soil.

Lastly, can an underground well/water deposit be used as a better ground point?
Maybe. I also have a well at my rural property with a 6 inch steel well casing 250 feet deep but I haven't tried it yet. It's under a 30 foot tall steel windmill tower so I didn't try it last time because I thought the steel windmill tower, fan, and gearbox would interfere. I'm not so sure about that now so I'm going to try it next trip out there. Additionally the well taps into a limestone aquifer. I recently saw some info that said the limestone may aid ioization of the water as it trickles through and the limestone disolves. So that might be a benefit or detriment. Not sure yet.

Greetings from Serbia

My opinions in bold above. Also please PM me about Serbia.

[David H.]

thx1138: Got the same feeling about the Rayburn set up. He seems to have left out a lot of detail so that some one like me would find it hard to assemble. I studied hard on it too. I found a supplier of 1n34a germanium diodes at www.angelfire.com/electronic2/index1/1n34a.html. Sells 25 in a bag for 10 bucks. Also the store the guys that sold me the plans for Jes's model told me about a store in Pakistan that sells the 0.2uf (200nf) 250V non polarized mylar capacitor at five cents for three pieces. It is EVE-eVision Electronics : Gear Motors in Pakistan. I have not bought anything as of yet because I needed to know if I could get the boards first. I wanted to try four of the 50 module boards As they claim it could generate a bit of electricity. I could add one to another to another and see how the voltage goes up. I spent 680 bucks with this new smart meter the electric company stuck in while I was gone in one month this winter and I am highly motivated to get an off the grid system started but am not rich so I am looking for anything that will help in this regard. I also need to find out if this energy needs to go through something else to get 60 hz in order to use household apliances. These plans only use it to light bulbs. I am 3400 ft. up in the california desert so it should work good here. Also do you think the spiral idea Rayburn had for the arial using 3/4'' copper tubing would generate better results? I suppose the more boards you put together the bigger you need to go with the collection wiring. I found an 8000 watt true sine wave power inverter that uses 12 volts to operate. I'm thinking if I can get to enough power to supply a battery bank to run that inverter I could power the whole house with proper watts. Any way Thanks for the feed back. And I think you could make some money if you wanted to sell some boards for Jes's idea.

[David H.]

thx1138: I tried the quick click to get to Scotts Electronics Buy Crystal Radio Kits Sets Parts Supply Sale and it did not find it. So, just go to Scott's electronic parts which is the seller by way of angelfire web site. Sorry.

[thx1138]

That's a lot of power

thx1138: I have not bought anything as of yet because I needed to know if I could get the boards first.
There are a lot of possible configurations of the mylar capacitors so the board needs to fit the parts. Get the components and we can build a board to fit them. The diodes and the electrolytic capacitors are pretty standard but the input side capacitors can vary a lot. We need physical dimensions so the pin spacings are correct and the pin sizes to get the correct holes in the board.

I wanted to try four of the 50 module boards As they claim it could generate a bit of electricity. I could add one to another to another and see how the voltage goes up.
The boards we make will have as many modules as we can fit on them but as the board size goes up so does the cost. I'm working on a 12" X 14" board that will have 154 modules using small caps but I'm wrestling with the trace sizes to handle the current. I have some smaller layouts ready and will probably upload them tomorrow after I go through them again.

I spent 680 bucks with this new smart meter the electric company stuck in while I was gone in one month this winter and I am highly motivated to get an off the grid system started but am not rich so I am looking for anything that will help in this regard. I also need to find out if this energy needs to go through something else to get 60 hz in order to use household apliances. These plans only use it to light bulbs.
Yes it will need to be converted from DC to 60Hz AC. It's always a cost/benefit trade off. These circuits put out DC so would have to charge batteries and then use an inverter as you mentioned below. Batteries large enough to store the kind of power you are talking about are going to cost a lot, they will need to be in an enclosure with a controlled climate and venting, and you will need to maintain them and occasionally replace them. You'll also need some switching gear to handle large currents and some conditioning gear to make sure you get a clean 60Hz AC. Otherwise you could end up damaging your appliances. And you'll need backup parts and equipment. You could end up spending more on maintaining the batteries and equipment than what the power company is charging you. You would just be trading off your time and money for a less efficient system that will be a headache for you. Who are you going to call when the system goes down?

Regardless of the capacities of the boards and batteries you will still run them dead if they consume the power faster than the system supplies it so you might have brown/black outs that are terrible on appliances. You may need huge elevated plates to overcome that.

I am 3400 ft. up in the california desert so it should work good here.
Altitude and humitiy are only a couple of the factors. Since you are in the desert I guess humidity won't be a factor but it also depends on the height of your elevated plate and the size and quality of the ground connection you can get in your soil.

Also do you think the spiral idea Rayburn had for the arial using 3/4'' copper tubing would generate better results?
No. Rayburn's system was theorized to work with harmonics of the Schuman frequency atmospherics and his spiral collector and coils were designed around that. Harmonics are not a part of this system and the spiral coil will not help any. There are two things about the elevated plate that affect performance: the larger the area of the plate and the better the dielectric properties of the insulation, the better the results you will get.

I suppose the more boards you put together the bigger you need to go with the collection wiring.
True. They have to handle the current your peak load is drawing.

I found an 8000 watt true sine wave power inverter that uses 12 volts to operate. I'm thinking if I can get to enough power to supply a battery bank to run that inverter I could power the whole house with proper watts.
8000 watts at 12 Volts is 666.66 AMPS! Thats going to take some large and expensive conductors. A normal house electrical service is 125 amps at 120 volts or roughly 15,000 Watts. You might have read the specs wrong. Please double check. Or maybe that was a typo. 120volts? That's still 66.66 amps.

Any way Thanks for the feed back. And I think you could make some money if you wanted to sell some boards for Jes's idea.
I'm not really interested in selling the boards and providing support, etc. I'm just donating them to the project with no warranty expessed or implied. You're welcome to market them if you wish.

I think you need to do some calculations before you head too deep into this. I suggest just building up a few boards and connecting a complete system and see what kind of results you get. Then calculate what you'll need to scale it up to your needs. While it is aggravating to pay the power company every month they do provide a reliable and stable service that is already compatible with all of your appliances and you have little to no maintenance on your end. That's what you are paying them for. I think once you put the numbers together you'll see what I'm saying.

Another approach you can take is the normal insulation, radiant barrier paint, caulking, and weatherstripping routine to see how far you can reduce that electric bill. That will also pay off if you decide to do Jes Ascanius' circuit.

See my comments above in bold. I'm hoping to have the circuit board files ready for upload tomorrow if you choose to go forward. Be aware that the kind of power you are talling about is deadly. A momentary lapse can cost you your life.