Soil Remineralization

[Aaron]

Rock dust seems to be the #1 most effective soil remineralization ingredient.
This link has a lot of resources for this particular concept:
http://www.energeticforum.com/agricu...ld-weaver.html

Also, sea minerals seem to be a runner up to the rock dust concept such as:
SeaAgri

The downfall I see using the sea sourced minerals is that is will too easily wash away if you want to apply it for long term use. The rock dust if applied in amounts of 10 tons per acre at a cost of material (transport not included) is about $8 to $80 for 10 tons and that will stay in the soil for 10-20 years...imagine applying once and not needing to add any fertilizer or anything to the soil for 10-20 years!

EDIT [I find that the sea solids can be applied to soil and is good for at least 5 years]. Much more expensive per ton, but less needed per acreage.

The soil micro organisms are protein based and consume necessary minerals and trace minerals for proper enzyme function. Without these minerals, the soil becomes lifeless and any food grown is very "empty."

Any discussion on these concepts is welcome and appreciated.

[Aaron]

Rock Dust & Sea Water remineralization resources and information

Rock Dust info:

Welcome to Remineralize the Earth
They have a resource page with a lot of rock dust sources:
Remineralize the Earth

Remineralize Center

Google Search rock dust remineralize - Google Search

Black Gold soil product includes rock dust
The new "Black Gold" is already on sale in Indonesia! | Terra Preta

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sea Minerals info:

SeaAgri
Sea Agri powerpoint presentation:
http://www.msue.msu.edu/objects/cont...riculture.pdf/


How to Improve Topsoil
Tsunami
Actually Aided Crops
in Indonesia
by CHRIS BRUMMITT, Associated Press Writer
Sunday, September 25, 2005 MEULABOH, Indonesia—From atop the coconut tree where he fled to escape the onrushing water, Muhammad Yacob watched the tsunami turn his rice paddy into a briny, debris-strewn swamp. Nine months later, Yacob and his wife are harvesting their best-ever crop—despite fears that salt water had poisoned the land.
"The sea water turned out to be a great fertilizer," said Yacob, 66, during a break from scything the green shoots and laying them in bunches on the stubble. "We are looking at yields twice as high as last year."



rest of story: TERRA: Living Soil

[Carbon negative energy]

Adding carbon to the mix

Hey Aaron,

Your 100% right about our need to take a serious look at fixing our soil if we're any way serious about resolving climate change and moving forward in a sustainable path.

Rock dust is a very effective way to rebuild the minerals and once the microbes get to work on them they become plant available. I know of one product that mixes organic waste along with dolomite, microbes and charcoal. Charcoal (Biochar if it's used in agriculture) acts like a catalyst as it retains water and nutrients and also provides a safe hebetate for soil microbes. I know biochar is not so easy to apply on a large scale but farmers in the Amazon rebuilt their soils with it thousands of years ago video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2809044795781727003 .

Another good site to visit on all that is biochar is Christoph Steiner's site www.biochar.org and for some clips on the effects and how to make it you can do a search on youtube for "biochar".

Regards,
Rob.

[adam ant]

**cough** sea salt

[Athena]

adam ant--Are you using the De Souza salt on your garden? If so, how much?
I bought the SeaAgri salt earlier this year, but I didn't apply it since there is an exceptional drought in east TN and the salt would just sit on top of the ground and eaten by my chickens. The SeaAgri has a larger grain that I anticipated, so I don't want the chickens to exceed a safe level of salt. If we get a decent snow this winter, I'll apply the salt and let the snow work for me.

Thank you Aaron for starting the Agriculture forum!

[Glenn]

I saw a show about green products. One of the segments was about an ex pro basketball player who now lives in Wisconson and owns an organic produce farm.

He has found a source where he can get discarded coconut husks from the South Pacific. According to him, coconut husks have a high supply of minerals and nutrients ideal for soil.

Using his own compost material, he mixes 1 part of the husks to 1 part the compost. Then he puts earthworms (he used the small wriggly type) in the mix and lets it sit until the worms have chewed through everything, leaving a nutrient rich soil.

Finally he sifts the worms out and starts the process over.

[Aaron]

sea salt remineralization

Bryan,

I think you're absolutely right about the sea salt. Since nature already did the work of grinding it down and putting it into the sea, it is already in a perfect form. Also, places that get flooded with sea water seem to always have bumper crops following in the next growing season!

From what I found it is more expensive..you need less per acre so maybe cost per acre is comparable.

Athena,

SeaAgri is the exact product I found...I posted about it elsewhere in this agriculture forum. How much did you buy, how much did it cost, how large of area does it treat and how long (years) is the application supposed to work?

[Athena]

SeaAgri

Aaron,
I paid $24 (including S&H) for a 10-lb bag of SeaAgri just before summer. Yesterday, I scattered 6 or 7 cups across the front yard just as it started to rain. Finally, a decent rain! I have an acre, of which 3/4 of it is "rented" to my 23 chickens in the backyard My garden is only 30' x 100' so I was going to use the application rate suggested on SeaAgri's website:

Application Rates for Home & Community Gardens

All Garden Soils
2.5 pounds SEA-90 per 100 square feet year one
1.25 pounds SEA-90 per 100 square feet annually years two and three
No further application for five years

Because of the extreme drought in TN, I didn't use SeaAgri this summer--I haven't used it before, so I was really looking forward to the experiment. Sorry, I can't offer advice. If anybody else has used SeaAgri or a similar product, I'd LOVE to hear about it.

AcresUSA has 2 books that deal with using sea solids fertilizers:
Fertility From the Ocean Deep by Charles Walters;
Sea Energy Agriculture by Maynard Murray, M.D.
(talking to husband here..."hey honey, this is a good Christmas gift idea!")

[Athena]

Azomite

This rock dust comes in a granular form as well as a micronized version. When I used this about 8 years ago, it only came in a fine powder that was very messy. This is a good product and I used it for house plants as well.

Peak Minerals - Azomite Inc.

[Aaron]

Sea Energy Agriculture

Here is a pdf of Sea Energy Agriculture by Robert Cain of SeaAgri.
It isn't a book but more like a power point but gives some good info:
http://www.msue.msu.edu/objects/cont...riculture.pdf/

[sucahyo]

Nice thread here. Currently looking for an easy way to fertilize land for a family.

I think anyone already know this already, just in case someone only read this thread.

I read on ormus reference that sea water can only make land fertil for a short time. It will reduce the land quality if used too many time. It explain that the one that make the land fertil is not the salt contained in the sea water, but other substance. If we can remove the salt from sea water, we can get this substance.

The other subtance is called ormus or white gold. It seems the best way to get it is by processing high density salt water. Since I read it from a rather old book. I think there must be an easier way to get this material instead of repeated drying and titration.

I am thinking of electrolysing the sea water, to separate the NaCl, getting NaOH water and that substance. But anyone warn that Cl2 gas is highly toxic.



For other mineral, anyone ever use the black soil from around an active volcano? Many flourist here (East Java, Indonesia) use it for expensive flower. Kinda like using Mangrove? trees for orchid.

[HiggsBoson]

I may be preaching to the converted here but here's my 2 cents anyway.
I read a book - Bread from Stone by Dr Julius Hensel several years ago.
He came up with the theory of using rock dust and that the NPK philosophy was flawed in the late 1800's.
I began using rock dust (paramagnetic) about 6 years ago and have never looked back.
My veges are sweet ,healthy and I don't use any sprays at all (not even garlic)
I don't get problems with pests or fungal problems, and my produce keeps very well.
I don't even use any manures or fish products, just rock dust incorperated into compost that is extremely aged. As Schauberger said decaying matter is cancerous matter. My compost is finished decaying and then some- pure humus
Hensel stated plants don't need nitrogen as they get it from the air.Plants grown with added nitrogen are succeptable to pests and disease, and the animals or humans fed them will be substandard specimens of their respective species.
It has worked for me, And I don't need to buy stuff all the time.
I've just recently started experimenting with Himilayan rock salt and celtic sea salt, It seems perfectly logical to me but others seem to think I'll overdose the plants with salt, I'm a bit weird so I tend to listen to results more than doubting thomases.

[Aaron]

minerals

Hi Higgs,

I've used rock dust in my garden too and some sea agri salt as well. It is
modified to have the optimum pH from what I understand and is a little
different than celtic sea salt or similar even though places flooded with
sea salt water or ocean water have flourished afterwards when everyone
thought it was going to do the opposite.

I have had lettuce in my garden last for 4-5 months literally with zero
spoilage and it is just as crispy after that time as it was just grown. And
this is through the entire hot summer and into fall. As long as the garden
is watered, that stuff just stays naturally preserved in the ground.
I've had some carrots last just as long.

I don't use any bug killers, etc...
because there aren't any bugs. Only the sunflowers had some ear wigs
and they don't even bother the seeds - only the pesky squirrels do that!
The only bug prevention I use is a nano-colloidal organic soap + water mix
I spray on the plants because it is a water wetter but it does keep off
bugs, even though it isn't needed for that.

First post in this thread:
http://www.energeticforum.com/agricu...ld-weaver.html
There is a free pdf of bread from stone for anyone that wants it.

I also use biochar and michorryzal fungus in my soil. Through this winter,
I take the charred wood (not ash) if there is any char in the stove in
the morning and throw it on top of my garden. Soon, I'll simply till it in.

[wantfreeenergy]

I must be coming back into tune. I've skimmed this info on rock dust sometime last year. But last night I was going through all the links and reading all these posts. Then when I woke up it was the first thing on my mind. "Get on the computer and bring this thread back to the top, by asking any question I could think of. LOL" And lo and behold it's already back to the top.

The thoughtless question I was gonna ask was about produce size. From the remineralize the earth site it appears that the produce grows huge.? Have you all been noticing this? I was thinking of experimenting with pyramid shapes to change the produce size, but then began reading about rock dust. I may still try the pyramid thing though. Also if anyone is interested in this question. Is she holding a beet with the greens removed on this site? REMINERALIZE THE EARTH - Home Typically it's the first picture that pops up.

I also recall reading about not needing the use of pesticides and such because no pests will bother the produce. Is this simply from the rock dust in the ground? I thought I recalled reading on the remineralize the earth site something about putting some rock dust in water and spraying it on the produce?

What about trees and pesticides? My grandma sprays her fruit orchard EVERY year with pesticides. I asked her if I could take care of it this year and to cancel the chemical spray visits. She sounds like she's gonna let me. But I was thinking of using compost tea and applying it every two-three weeks. It would be much more convenient to just apply the rock dust and only need to do it once. Has anyone some experience in using rock dust on fruit trees? And did the pests stay away from the trees? Could I just apply it to the ground or should I also make a spray and spray the trees? Should I also use the compost tea if I use the rock dust spray?

How would I apply the rock dust to the fruit orchard? I can't rototill it into the ground because I don't wanna till up all those roots. Or can I? Spray on the ground? Just sprinkle it on the ground?

I also intend to apply the rock dust to the lawn, because that's another thing that's sprayed EVERY year. Sometimes twice a year. Once in the spring and once in the fall. I definately can't rototill the lawn. What would be the best way to apply it to the lawn? Rock dust spray? Or just put a light coating on the lawn?

I know I have TONS of questions. But I wanna get it right the first year so that my grandma says, "WOW", and never wants to use chemicals again.

I'm really anxious and excited to try the rock dust. It'll be the first year I have somewhere to grow a garden.

[Aaron]

rock dust

Sounds like you're in the flow!

My own produce size was not very big. I'm an amateur in growing and I
had a tendency to plant everything too close together and that can
stunt the growth. However, my lettuce was preserved so long because
it was so bunched up together it slowed the growth so it was like baby
leaves nonstop, which is the best anyway in my opinion. Another thing
for small produce for me was that all seeds were 100% organic and
original heirloom. Most of the ones I picked were for flavor and not size.
There are big size organic varieties but I didn't get those. I think if you
have seeds that are from varieties bred for big size and you use rock
dust, etc... you'll see incredible results.

The rock dust itself is an irritant to some pests. That is part of the
bug prevention. The other is that normally pests attack weak plants and
with proper nutrition, the plants are healthy and thriving so the bugs
have a tendency to stay away. Survival of the fittest.

Some organic nanocolloidal soaps can be sprayed on trees/plants for
bug prevention and is one of the best things if you do need bug
prevention, plus you get the benefit of the water wetting benefit that
makes all the nutrients more absorbable.

If for example 10 tons per acre of rock dust are added, there is no need
to add any minerals for up to 15 years. Or it can be 1 ton per acre and
then add 1 ton per acre every year or every other year or so.

I don't know about orchard applications, but
that remineralize.org has a LOT of tips from people that have dealt with
this for many years. Almost guaranteed you can reach someone that knows.

The soap by the way saves orchards. Trees sprayed with the soap did not
have frost damage to the fruit.

I actually deal with the most advanced soap for this purpose but I won't
recommend dealing with the company because they have no integrity.
If I can work out something with the manufacture directly, I'll post about
it. My friend/partners is looking to getting licensing to manufacture it
locally.

Anyway, I'd really recommend contacting some of the experts at
www.remineralize.org to ask for specific application to orchards.