COP 17 Heater | Rosemary Ainslie

[Aaron]

555

It looks to me Aaron that your 555 timer circuit is outputing some bizarre stuff considering it's just a lil ol' 555 timer.

You appear to have some interesting "frequency modulation" going on in there, and I'd bet that it is the 555 itself rather than the MOSFET achieving any kind of self-oscillation.

There will be some feedback to the gate from the drain, and with these transients they could also be getting into your circuit and 555 chip, wreaking havoc on its stability. Make that capacitor on pin 5 a 1uF and your instability will probably go away. Ensure you have some decent decoupling right at your 555 chip power as well.

I have done many tests and ruled out the 555 as the source of oscillation. I can allow the mosfet oscillation to overpower and and self regulate the off or on time of the timer. It is all about capacitance.

I have test several timer chips and other components and the mosfet always oscillates. It isn't from a funny timer and it runs really cold. The 110 ohm resistor was the only thing getting warm so I changed to a 6 volt battery and it runs fine and I can hardly feel warmth on resistor anymore. Still works fine.

Anyway, I may show more later on this.

[Harvey]

Move the discharge pin (7) to the diode anode and you can get rid of the 110 ohm resistor

Proposed Changes

[Aaron]

555

Thanks Harvey, I can try that and see if the effect is still there.

"Move the discharge pin (7) to the diode anode and you can get rid of the 110 ohm resistor "

I'll also try 1uf @ pin 5 just to see if it kills the oscillation as 99 mentioned when I get a cap that size.

[Aaron]

Ainslie Battery Charging 1

Here is the first battery charging video.

YouTube - Ainslie Battery Charging 1

Just charging second battery thru diode. The battery is receiving the identical spikes the front battery receives if the diode wasn't there.

Frequencies & super tiny pulse widths are identical to what the front battery would see. However, the amplitude is reduced a bit since it is only 12 volts...using other 12v to power instead of 24. I only have 3 of those 12v 7ah's gels for demo. Anyway, battery getting charged - benefit of doubt is against the battery's favor (weaker spike amplitudes).

Anyway, that shows that if there is any charging at all, then those spikes are capable of inducing charging mode in a battery. That means lead ions are absolutely moving in charging mode.

I believe the front battery's output would of course be reduced by the incoming spikes which are at a much greater amplitude. They will slow the battery's discharge.

That's it for now.

[Aaron]

battery charging video description

Description of battery charging video at youtube:

Any normal charger running on a battery while it is powering something will of course negate what is leaving the battery. For example, if you put a dc wall transformer to a flashlight...low volts and low amps - and keep it on...the battery can take charge while it is powering the light bulb at the same time. It isn't ideal but the fact of the matter is that the output is negated by some of the input. In this situation, we are clearly paying a big price for this recharge.

On the Ainslie circuit, the power battery is absolutely receiving recycled spikes from the circuit. These spikes help to negate what has left the battery. There is loss throughout the circuit, very minimal but a good amount of what left is returned after it already moved around causing more work than the net loss to the battery.

Showing recharge of second battery through flyback diode. It has been wondered if these high frequency spikes at any voltage with super low pulsewidth can actually cause a battery to charge. Yes it can.

[Aaron]

Ainslie Battery Charging 2

Here is some more of the battery charging video I shot.

YouTube - ainsliebatterycharging2

Will post more later.

[Joit]

Joit, the 'resistive' wire I use is straight from an old 2 bar-heater - each bar capable of producing about 1KW. The resistance is 15 ohms. Not sure aboout the gauge. When wound on tin-can like in the pics the BEMF is easily over 400V I'm still awaiting my mosfets and playtime...

Thanks, Sprocket.
Just asking, because i did think about, why your Mosfet did go (away from us)
Hows about you remove the Lid from your Can?
Anyhow i think, a Tube is maybe better for Resonance, when its a plain Tube.
Maybe you try it without the lid, but do as you like.

I think the gauge are not importend, looks more, its the Ohms of the Wires.
Anyhow i think, there is a Relation to what it heats up, and how much Amp/Volts you are chasing through.
Maybe a lower ratet Element will heat up faster and hotter at 12/24Volt as a higher resistance load.
I made something similar like the can, but only Copper on it, i want to change to a heating Wire,
but first need to get one, because i will not take apart the one i have.
I buried my next Mosfet, and never never will take again any load to the Source side, i think, that does cause it,
only again between D and +, like described at the Doc's.
Thats the prize for playing around with it .

[Joit]

Nice Videos again Aaron.

That shows one more that you can charge with a Batterie with LOWER Voltage a Batterie to HIGHER Voltage, as the Source,
what is anyway far beyond classical Understanding.
And every Idiot knows, that the last Voltage at Charging goes SLOWEST, not FASTEST.

[sprocket]

Thanks, Sprocket.
Just asking, because i did think about, why your Mosfet did go (away from us)
...

Remember that I was using a 600v C50, not the beefier G50's. Also, as stated, I replaced the shunt-resistor with a 28 Ohm DC motor/capacitor (parallel) combo - that's what killed it pretty quick! Incidently, with the same setup, but using BU208's, (rated 1300v CE) nothing else has blown.

Small lie - I actually blew the RS pulse-generator itself! Not the first time either, and luckily it's just basically built from common-variety TTL logic so easy to repair - just needed a new 7400.

[Aaron]

Ainslie Battery Charging 3

Here is another batt charge video:

YouTube - ainsliebatterycharging3

Shot this early this morning but didn't have time to put it on youtube.

Will post a few more that I shot this morning later.

[Harvey]

Shouldn't we take an isolated battery and check its voltage while drawing a specific current in order to establish a base line?

And then, after we run the oscillation charging test, perform the same isolated voltage check while drawing the exact same current as the baseline?

Only then can we truly say the battery has taken a charge. Often on these types of scenarios we can see a battery increase in voltage, but decrease in available amp hours (or mA hours as the case may be), because the battery has traded current for voltage during the spike exchange. In order to ensure the battery has increased in charge we must measure both the current flowing into it during the charge and the resultant voltage.

The specific current draw test above (where a constant current load independent of supply voltage is necessary) is a fast way to evaluate a true charge on the battery because a 'fluff' charge of just voltage will quickly disappear under current draw. By ensuring the same current in both tests we are then comparing apples to apples.

In short, the 'charge' needs to be throughout the battery and not just on the local terminals and plates if the voltage reading is going to be meaniful.

Than you for doing the tests you have done so far

[Aaron]

Ainslie Battery Charging 4

Another batt charge vid:

YouTube - Ainslie Battery Charging 4

[Aaron]

draw down

Shouldn't we take an isolated battery and check its voltage while drawing a specific current in order to establish a base line?

And then, after we run the oscillation charging test, perform the same isolated voltage check while drawing the exact same current as the baseline?

Only then can we truly say the battery has taken a charge. Often on these types of scenarios we can see a battery increase in voltage, but decrease in available amp hours (or mA hours as the case may be), because the battery has traded current for voltage during the spike exchange. In order to ensure the battery has increased in charge we must measure both the current flowing into it during the charge and the resultant voltage.

The specific current draw test above (where a constant current load independent of supply voltage is necessary) is a fast way to evaluate a true charge on the battery because a 'fluff' charge of just voltage will quickly disappear under current draw. By ensuring the same current in both tests we are then comparing apples to apples.

In short, the 'charge' needs to be throughout the battery and not just on the local terminals and plates if the voltage reading is going to be meaniful.

Than you for doing the tests you have done so far

A draw down test is needed using the wattage draw that a control supply shows is necessary to produce the same heat as the Anislie circuit at whatever settings.

If 10 watts from control supply to get same temp, then appropriate resistance on control battery to draw exact wattage from full charge down to x voltage is necessary.

And of course Ainslie circuit running at that same temp on full charge battery down to x volts.

Recharge batts and swap batteries and do that back and forth. This will show the truth.

However, the battery charging videos I have shown proves that those narrow pulses charge a battery and I have already powered loads with batteries charged like that from Ainslie circuit so that charge does indeed power a load.

It is difficult to show that over a couple hours of tests because it really needs to be charged overnight or many hours at least just like any other charger needs.

In any case, the battery I showed getting a charge is from those spikes that are supposed to be voltage traded for current, however, any of those spikes when hitting the battery do cause an internal current in the battery that puts it in charging mode.

For the draw down tests I'll do, I won't use a diode or second battery getting charged. It will simply be running on one batt while a second batt is drawing required wattage that the control dc supply says is necessary for same heat.

[eternalightwithin]

Looks like a spike every 40ns.
Pretty fast. Would getting a faster diode ( does this exist?!??) increase freq of neg. spikes?

Edit: Err actually if one lowered capacitance by keeping wires closer to chip, I think that would increase freq.

[Aaron]

diodes

Hi Eternal,

The faster diodes will allow a higher voltage spike from faster switching I believe but frequency I think would be the same.

When zooming in, there is ringing within ringing and I have measured some activity over 5 MHz.

Anyway, the oscillations, can be from 10's of kHz to 200+ kHz.

Right now, my test running is at 134kHz.
Duty cycle on timer set to 20.9% and 2.403kHz.
Oscillation goes much faster.