COP 17 Heater | Rosemary Ainslie

[Peter Lindemann]

Aaron's Test Set-up

Hi Folks,

I just spent the afternoon with Aaron getting his test set-up calibrated. He'll be posting a simple 555 timer circuit we developed that can produce the right frequency and duty-cycle drive for the MOSFET. We were able to set the ON TIME of the drive circuit to 16 microseconds and the wavelength to about 416 microseconds which gives a 2.4Khz square wave with a 3.7% duty-cycle.

Considering that we don't know anything and only have dirt and twigs to work with, it wasn't that hard.

Aaron has the right MOSFET and we are looking for the closest match we can get for the inductive resistor. The rest is pretty straight forward. It will certainly not take us 400 posts to convince people how difficult it is, since we got everything designed, built and calibrated in less than 4 hours of real, work.

Aaron has pictures and schematics that he will post. There are no test results yet, since we are just setting things up right now.

This is a breeze, guys, so don't be distracted by the Goof-Balls and Nay-Sayers.

Peter

[Gre]

Rosemary's test was already certified at COP 17 by BP, Fluke Instruments certified the results, etc...

If you're new to the thread, there have already been multiple confirmations that there is more current circulating in the system that what left the battery. There are many more to come and many more to be posted in this forum.

Awesome. Can you provide a link to the papers?

edit: I found the experiment paper.

[rmitoday]

Hi Folks,

I just spent the afternoon with Aaron getting his test set-up calibrated. He'll be posting a simple 555 timer circuit we developed that can produce the right frequency and duty-cycle drive for the MOSFET. We were able to set the ON TIME of the drive circuit to 16 microseconds and the wavelength to about 416 microseconds which gives a 2.4Khz square wave with a 3.7% duty-cycle.

Peter

Great news. I've been kept silent and read this thread. If Aaron shows schematic that produces 3.7% duty-cycle I will replicate it now.

[Aaron]

555 Timer Circuit for Rosemary Ainslie's Circuit

This is a big picture 8x11 inches so there is no mistaking the schematic and you can zoom in pretty good.

This is the timer circuit I built right after the first timer circuit. The schematic is a circuit Peter came up with. I modified that picture of the schematic to reflect the actual values of components that I am using in the 555 circuit you see in my pics. I've used it over the course of the soap opera and am very happy with it since it does everything necessary. You can of course go to higher frequencies, etc... and get a feel for the circuit.

The circuit has a max of 50% duty cycle. With the 100k pots, you can have pretty wide variability. I'm only using the lower 10% or so, but you can play with it on your own scopes to see the range you have.

As Peter said, it does 3.7% duty cycle at 2.4 kHz.

Make sure to use an inductive resistor with AS MUCH INDUCTANCE AS POSSIBLE for 10 OHMS. (wire wound ceramic hollow core resistor)

http://www.feelthevibe.com/free_energy/rosemary_ainslie/heater555timer.jpg

[Aaron]

The control test

Rosemary, please tell me if anything in the picture's notes or description below needs correcting.

I'm using one of Peter's power supplies to heat the resistor to determine the control wattage necessary at a continuous DC for a certain temperature.

The below pic has notes telling what to do. Use this method to determine what volts and amps your steady direct current supply (100% duty cycle - constant on) is needed to get the resistor to be at the temp that your Ainslie circuit runs at.

Make sure both are at the same ambient temp for accuracy.

If your resistor gives you 175 degrees on the Ainslie circuit for your particular batteries when they're charged (use good condition batteries - no junk) and you're at your preferred duty cycle and frequency...and that temp stays pretty much the same when the battery shows you that it isn't going down anymore...use that temp as your gauge for the control.

When resistor is cool, connect steady dc supply. If it gives you 175 when you are at 6 volts and 0.6 amps, then 3.6 watts is your control wattage.
(The 0.6 amps current leaving the supply shows the resistor is really 10 ohms right on the nose)

The resistance stays the same at ALL temperatures. They are designed for that so don't pay attention to misinformation that says otherwise.

These are very tuned resistors specifically made to be at their rated resistance for a wide range of temperatures in the many hundreds of degrees. The resistance will be consistent and reliable for your calculations.

If you measure your power on your shunt during the Ainslie circuit test - do so only with True RMS meter that can store the data to give you a running total of the watt hours it used for that particular temp for so many hours.

You don't have to run the control for as longas the Ainslie circuit. Once you know the temp when everything is equalized, take the power reading and it won't change over time.

The control shows that for 175F for 8 hours at 3.6 watts, that is 28.8 watt hours. 3.6 watts x 1 hour = 3.6 watt hours. 3.6 watt hours X 8 hours = 28.8 watt hours.

If your Ainslie circuit gets to 175F and stays there for 8 hours but your true RMS watt hour reading is 28.7 watt hours. Then you just went over 1.0 COP.

28.8 watt hours is what is required and 28.7 is less.

If you get 20 watt hours, then you beat it by more.

If you get 10 watt hours true rms reading, then you beat it by almost 3 times.

etc...

This is the first basic test to do to replicate the findings of Rosemary Ainslie's tests. Once doing PLENTY of these over and over and over. Then, goto putting your resistor in whatever kind of calorimeter, etc... that you want.

Do your tests with 0 resistance at the gate, increase resistance to remove the ringing and do the tests, get your mosfet in oscillation and do the tests. Change frequencies and duty cycles and see the relationship between them all.

Rosemary, I'll wait for your comments on this. I'm not open to comments from skeptics because I want to do this Rosemary's way - the way she did it for all her tests.

[witsend]

Aaron - am plodding here. I'll read it again but would ask that you try and run a control simultaneously - where possible - or run the control off batteries, recharge and then the experiment.

Let me explain. The watt hour rating of the batteries applies to values that, in turn require certain optimised amperage draw down rates. They never give those rates. You'll find that on a control regardless of the watt hour rating - say it runs for 10 hours to FLAAAAT - it will cost the test battery about 0.5 volts. It's way way more efficient. That's the only down side about batteries. You exceed the watt hour rating - but the watt hour rating is subject to battery vagaries.

That's why - every time - the ideal is to get the measurement off the 'spike' value and for that you need good quality scope meters.

But I'll read it through again. That's off the top of my head at first glance.

[witsend]

You don't have to run the control for as longas the Ainslie circuit. Once you know the temp when everything is equalized, take the power reading and it won't change over time.

The control shows that for 175F for 8 hours at 3.6 watts, that is 28.8 watt hours. 3.6 watts x 1 hour = 3.6 watt hours. 3.6 watt hours X 8 hours = 28.8 watt hours.

If your Ainslie circuit gets to 175F and stays there for 8 hours but your true RMS watt hour reading is 28.7 watt hours. Then you just went over 1.0 COP.

28.8 watt hours is what is required and 28.7 is less. Aaron

That looks spot on.

[Hoppy]

Hoppy, I hope you won't take my words to mean something that supports something that you believe in but I don't.

I believe you know exactly what I mean and you're playing games with my intentions. Why do I believe that? Because I ALREADY spelled it out in my post. Read again.

The attraction motors are over 1.0 COP so they produce more work than work input from the batteries.

Overunity is an oxymoron.

The word overunity isn't even needed.

Over 1.0 COP or under 1.0 COP... that is the question. What word do you want to use to describe that Hoppy?

If you take a word: overunity, and you say the MEANING IS over 1.0 COP. That is EXACTLY what overunity means to that person with that definition. That is what overunity means no matter what in terms of what most people think of in terns of overunity.

Some people say overunity is over 100% efficient. It is not. Open systems add to entropy means there is dissipation in the system. More work is simply being done that what the operator had to input. That is over 1.0 COP and anytime I mention that word, that is my meaning.

Aaron

I understand what you mean and I'm pleased that you have pointed out that overunity is not the same thing as over 100% efficient. The term 'overunity' is sometimes understandably misconstrued as a measurement of system efficiency.

Hoppy

[witsend]

Aaron - guys - please just consider doing one more test. Take the diode to a disconnected second battery and link that negative with the battery's negative and you'll have the real pleasure of seeing it recharge. For me that was such interesting proof - the second battery voltage gaining way over the supply - so clearly not a simple transfer of energy from the supply through the diode. Unless, of course, it is also known that the lower voltage can somehow induce a current flow into a higher voltage?

[Aaron]

control note...

The numbers I show in the control test are MY particular numbers. Don't be confused if your numbers don't match. They are only for examples.

I would recommend doing the control from a few volts up to X volts. Go up 1/4 volt each time and let the resistor stabilize its temp for a bit. Go up 1/4 volt and record temp, repeat and you'll see the full range for YOUR particular resistor.

You can put that on a graph if you want and for your Ainslie circuit, you can use it as a guage by looking at the Ainslie circuit temp and comparing to graph of control to see how your true rms power readings on the shunt compare for equal temperature.

[Aaron]

Rosemary Ainslie Circuit | Feedback to Timer Input

new video:
YouTube - Rosemary Ainslie | Timer Battery Feedback

This is just for fun - to demonstrate that there is energy captured from the inductive resistor's magnetic field and it doesn't reduce the heat production or draw. Current induced to pickup coil, thru full bridge, to cap. Cap is fed to front of timer circuit isolated so battery doesn't see it. 555 circuit runs on power in cap first and the battery only gives up the difference. Makes timer battery run longer.

This opens possibilities for optimum wound coils to capture even more without taking away from heat production. Perhaps the optimum pickup coil can supply the loss to a cap so the circuit self runs. I have not verified this. That is thinking out loud.

[Joit]

I do run my Timer from one Batterie too,i only did take a second Line from one Batterie over a Diode to a Cap, an thats for the Timer.
My Timer has a range from 4-16V, what it can handle at the Input.
Anyway, late Night, i did take the good Example from Jetijs, and placed a Diode to the Minus from the Batterie.
And, i did connect a Ground + 100 ~ohms Pot to my Water Pipe at my Rooms.
Now my Batteries charging slowly up again. But it seems, the major different is the real Ground there.
And still to early, to do some serious measurements for me.

[Hoppy]

Aaron - guys - please just consider doing one more test. Take the diode to a disconnected second battery and link that negative with the battery's negative and you'll have the real pleasure of seeing it recharge. For me that was such interesting proof - the second battery voltage gaining way over the supply - so clearly not a simple transfer of energy from the supply through the diode. Unless, of course, it is also known that the lower voltage can somehow induce a current flow into a higher voltage?

Rosemary,

Connect a 1000 ohm resistor in place of the battery and measure the voltage across it. What do you get?

Hoppy

[witsend]

Rosemary,

Connect a 1000 ohm resistor in place of the battery and measure the voltage across it. What do you get?

Hoppy

why? What's the purpose of this?

[Peter Lindemann]

A Few More Comments

Hi Folks,

Here are a few more "liner notes" on the pictures and 555 schematic that Aaron posted in Post #1341 . The signal drive to the Gate of the FET comes directly off PIN 3 of the 555 chip, before the 5.1K resistor going to the Base of the 2N2222. You can see it in the photographs as a YELLOW WIRE leading from PIN 3 to the 10K Pot connected to the Gate of the FET. The schematic drawing does not show this connection, since it was drawn simply as a timer/controller.

The GREEN LED and the 5.6K resistor connected to it are there just to indicate that the timer circuit is running, since its on a separate supply.

The Duty Cycle, or ON TIME of the Timer is controlled by the setting of Pot #1. The OFF TIME of the Timer is controlled by the settings of both Pot #1 plus Pot #2. So, if Pot #2 is dialed down to zero, the duty cycle is 50% (ON TIME and OFF TIME are equal to Pot #1). It is also advisable to add a 1K resistor in line with Pot #1 so there is always some resistance left even if it is dialed down to zero. This is also not shown on the schematic drawing, but it is used on the Timer Board and can be seen in the photos.

Aaron has made the corrections to the schematic diagram and shows them below.

Peter