BEDINI SG - The Complete Intermediate Handbook

[Peter Lindemann]

Current Schedule

Hi Peter,

can you tell me when the third manual will be ready?

regards,
Mario

Mario, et al...

Aaron and I are currently finishing up a project and then will focus on the Advanced SG Handbook. I hope it will be finished and available by the end of June, or about the time of the Conference. Unless something else comes up and diverts our attention, that is the plan.

Peter

[Mario]

Mario, et al...

Aaron and I are currently finishing up a project and then will focus on the Advanced SG Handbook. I hope it will be finished and available by the end of June, or about the time of the Conference. Unless something else comes up and diverts our attention, that is the plan.

Peter

Hi Peter, thanks.

Mario

[naeaurel]

the 3rd book

Hi,

Just wondering if the 3rd book will ever be ready?
I understand should be ready in july, but now August is at the end. Do you have a date release?
Thanks.

[Peter Lindemann]

Bedini SG: The Complete Advanced Handbook

Hey folks,

As you can see, all projected dates have come and gone. So here is the current outlook on this project.

I demonstrated a working model of a totally tuned-up SG unit at the Conference. It could be run in standard mode or generator mode, and it had a totally "drag-free" extra generator coil on it lighting up 40 LEDs. The machine did not lose a single RPM whether the LEDs were lit or not.

I have always said that the third book would be about tapping the mechanical energy of the wheel, so this test machine was the first step in making sure I wasn't blowing smoke up my own ###! Now that this process is understood, the project can move to completion.

I have already discussed the entire content with John and he has OK'd the outline, so everything is in place for the book to be written. I am hoping it will be ready for release near the end of October of this year, or shortly thereafter.

And don't worry, it will be the best one yet!!!

Best regards,
Peter

[2SeeMore]

Photoflash cap specs

I've been posting on the Beginners Handbook thread and remain very much a beginner, but now I want to add a cap discharge system so I can use my SG to rejuvenate car batteries - so here I am.

I couldn't find a photoflash type cap here in Costa Rica so I'll be ordering from the states and want to make sure I get it right.

Peter says photoflash caps are best but doesn't give details about ideal voltage or uF ranges. Though he shows an "example" cap of 15,000 uF and 80V, if I disconnect an output wire to my charge battery the neons come on, indicating the radiant spike is always over 100v so it seems like an 80v cap wouldn't be enough.

Any advice on the specs I should be looking for, and whether to get one or more caps?

Also, I'm thinking a simple cam activated switch is probably the easiest to start with, and I found these super cheap ones on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Micro-...eywords=roller
Any feedback about whether they'll work?

Thanks.

[Aaron]

cap dump

I've been posting on the Beginners Handbook thread and remain very much a beginner, but now I want to add a cap discharge system so I can use my SG to rejuvenate car batteries - so here I am.

I couldn't find a photoflash type cap here in Costa Rica so I'll be ordering from the states and want to make sure I get it right.

Peter says photoflash caps are best but doesn't give details about ideal voltage or uF ranges. Though he shows an "example" cap of 15,000 uF and 80V, if I disconnect an output wire to my charge battery the neons come on, indicating the radiant spike is always over 100v so it seems like an 80v cap wouldn't be enough.

Any advice on the specs I should be looking for, and whether to get one or more caps?

Also, I'm thinking a simple cam activated switch is probably the easiest to start with, and I found these super cheap ones on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Micro-...eywords=roller
Any feedback about whether they'll work?

Thanks.

Depending on the whole coil, the spikes can be hundreds of volts.

However, with 15k uf, the capacitance is large enough that you will never top the voltage. The goal is to dump the cap when it is ballpark several volts above the charging battery voltage at minimum. On Bedini's cap dump, it is common for it do dump when the voltage in the cap bank is twice the charging battery voltage and that is ok too.

John's cap dump has a comparitor to look at the charging batt voltage - probably too advanced at this point to try to do something like that, but you can do it by a timer - Peter provides a circuit in the book. You have to make sure to watch the charging battery so you can turn it off when the voltage is high enough.

80v 15k uf is the exact cap John uses in his larger cap dump circuits. 4 of them to be exact - in series and parallel.

Find the lowest ESR - effective series resistance - caps you can find. Those dump the fastest.

Anyway, the ones John used are from this company: United Chemi-Con | Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors

[2SeeMore]

Energy received by multiple charge batteries in parallel

Thanks again Aaron for the info on cap capacity, and the specifics on the photoflash caps to get. That makes all the difference. I'm going to try to duplicate the circuit laid out on p.47.

I'll be ordering most of the parts from the states which will take 3 - 4 weeks. In the meantime I want to be doing something with the SG. I don't want to charge starter batteries with radiant energy, as afterwards, they will quite likely not be rechargeable with convention hot electricity, but I did see something suggesting I can charge all but one of them with regauged energy, if I hook up several batteries in parallel on the output side.
Is that correct?

I forgot where I copied it from, but here's the quote explaining the idea.

"OK, why CAN we swap batteries that have been capacitor dump charged, but not diode direct charged? Because the capacitor has REGAUGED the energy and we can use the battery as primary immediately. Well, the batteries being charged in line AFTER the first secondary battery, in parallel on the back end, have the energy REGAUGED BY THE FIRST SECONDARY BATTERY that is hooked up to the output of the unit. It is just like getting the energy through a capacitor! Batteries are just really slow capacitors, after all. The only battery that CANNOT be swapped to primary is the first battery in line on the output side that is directly hooked to the radiant output."

[2SeeMore]

Switch on run battery for cap dump

In the intermediate handbook Peter has a schematic (on page 47) for the cap dump using a 555 timer. It shows a switch on the positive terminal of the run battery - instead of on the charging battery.

The switch opens and closes the circuit that runs the 555 timer. Is the "switch" an effect created by the 555 timer (as I'm thinking), or is it a separate component?

[HansKammler]

This photoflash caps are specially build to withstand enormous Voltage Spikes.
this are not the normal filter cap you can find everywhere ( in your computer supply)

There are exactly build for High Power discharges.
This kind of caps can instantly kill you easy. So be warned. If you are not educated please ask an teacher / professional in your area for help.

When I start experimenting, I buyed this oneway cheap cameras (with flashlite) in supermarket only for the cap inside.
One time, when I open up the plastic case, I get a nasty shock because I used an key to open up the case and touched the inside the capwires.
It burns me a hole trough my finger. I was shocked for 30 minutes.
and this camera was disposed weeks ago but there was enough energy captured inside...

E=\frac {1}{2}CU^{2}

That means that Energy = 0.5 * capacity (Farad) *( Volt * Volt)

you can also ask your local photo lab to collect all those holiday cams for you and after one month you can have a bag full of cameras :-)
In the summertime you can find a lot there ...

Example: (here should be an ebay Link, but the forumsoftware filters it away )

eBay item number:
121057411068
130 Joule per piece :-)

or
5018390917
even more Joule ;-)

Only for educational purpose. I´m not affiliated or have experience with this particular seller.
You can see the word "Photo" on the cap - thats the one you will need.





some hints:

Dont forget to use heavy wires from cap to your Bridge recifier and mosfet/thyristor/Battery. Not this crappy croco clamps

Watch your voltage on this Capacitor while experimenting.

If your 555 is not dumping fast enough or are not wired correctly, you will have more than 150 Volts DC in a few seconds at the CAP. So you need to adjust the timing of your 555 timer. Every 1 - 2 seconds , pin 3 have to fire.

To discharge this cap use always a resistor (50 Ohms / 25 Watts) - dont short it with a wire - this will kill the cap

Put your other hand (left) always in your pocket, when playing arround with a charged system.

[2SeeMore]

Hanz,

Thanks for your story and advice.

I’m amazed you endured 30 minutes of being shocked - especially by that type of capacitor. I suspect the only reason it didn’t kill you is that it was somehow restricted to just passing into and out of your finger. To go on like that the battery must have been good so that the cap was able to continuously recharge and discharge until it died.

After reading your comment about discharging the caps with a resistor I found instructions for a simple capacitor discharge tool and will definitely make one.

I appreciate your point about the voltage climbing high and fast if the 555 isn’t wired right or dumps the cap too slowly. I imagine a hit of such voltage could cause the battery to explode. I'll certainly try to figure out how to independently test the 555 circuit before running it with the caps.

Right now I’m still trying to figure out how the different parts in the schematic work and how current will move through the circuits.

Do you have the intermediate handbook? I’m planning on building the capacitor discharge that’s shown in the schematic on page 47 and want to ask somebody about how some of the parts in that circuit work.