SSG sweet spot - Tuning

[aveVICTOR]

Hy everyone!

I have built the bedini ssg and tuned it perfectly respecting the instructions.
I found the sweet spot using an AM meter and analog multimeter.
The problem is that the sweet spot does not remain stable, meaning that after i stop the wheel and restart it does not pick up to the same speed and i have to re-tune it.

This makes any experiment with it extremely difficult.

Has anyone encountered this problem before and if so, is there a solution?

Thank you!

[BroMikey]

Tunning

Hy everyone!

I have built the bedini ssg and tuned it perfectly respecting the instructions.
I found the sweet spot using an AM meter and analog multimeter.
The problem is that the sweet spot does not remain stable, meaning that after i stop the wheel and restart it does not pick up to the same speed and i have to re-tune it.

This makes any experiment with it extremely difficult.

Has anyone encountered this problem before and if so, is there a solution?

Thank you!

Hello aveVictor

I think there is more than one place depending on many variables such as battery size, battery shorted, battery bad, magnet gaps, attraction mode, repulsion, wire length, base resistance, and many more.

If you have built it by plans found on the internet you must realize that the books have many other items of interest to help you resolve troubles. I think it is called the 'Intermediate" such things as device matching are covered.

Beta matching is one I heard on diodes. Making the parts all the same helps to stabilize outputs.

Have you heard of device "burn in" I did this by running up the amps on my SgOsc(No Magnets) for short runs so when I turned it back down to where the devices were more evenly balanced at the lower amp draw.

I think this is hard to answer unless you give the members the exact construction.

I personally have never built the bike wheel kit but I have heard all these things.

Mike

[jettis]

Hy everyone!

I have built the bedini ssg and tuned it perfectly respecting the instructions.
I found the sweet spot using an AM meter and analog multimeter.
The problem is that the sweet spot does not remain stable, meaning that after i stop the wheel and restart it does not pick up to the same speed and i have to re-tune it.

This makes any experiment with it extremely difficult.

Has anyone encountered this problem before and if so, is there a solution?

Thank you!

Hi put a lower ohm resistor with a switch in parallel with existing trigger resistor, this will allow the machine to use the lower resistance resistor when initially running and when it gets close to top speed simply throw the switch to break the connection and run on your tuned resistor only. The machine will reach top tuned speed this way. Or you could use a dremmel or an electric motor to spin the rotor up to it's operational speed.

Dave Wing

[BroMikey]

Top Speed Tuning issues

Hi put a lower ohm resistor with a switch in parallel with existing trigger resistor, this will allow the machine to use the lower resistance resistor when initially running and when it gets close to top speed simply throw the switch to break the connection and run on your tuned resistor only. The machine will reach top tuned speed this way. Or you could use a dremmel or an electric motor to spin the rotor up to it's operational speed.

Dave Wing

Thanks Dave

aveVictor has not answered yet but I was at a lose to give the right help.

I heard Aaron say something to that effect in his bike kit video. Fell free to add Aaron. Aaron was saying 250 rpm's or more and I guess the output would be erratic say if the person building one for the first time didn't know that they were only at 150 rpm's. As the Rpm's climb fall back the tuning would be way off.

With all those magnets it seems like someone would hang a gencoil on it.

Mike

[aveVICTOR]

Firstly, thank you for your replies!

To build the ssg i followed the instructions and schematics from Directory:Bedini SG - PESWiki. The materials and components are exactly the ones specified there. I thought that i should first replicate the exact original experiment and then add my own modifications.

I work with 2 lead-acid batteries 12V 360 mA. When tuned, the wheel spins to about 200 rpm's and at that point i got the expected results, similar to bedini's original. But as i said before, due to the inconsistency of the tuning point they are hard to replicate.


I will try the solution with the switch and the parallel resistor and i will tell you if that worked.

[tachyoncatcher]

Hi aveVICTOR,
A few Bedini Wheel pointers:
RPM is not a good indicator of the success of your wheel. Rate of charge on the charging battery is. You can have a good ROC (rate of charge) on a 150 rpm wheel or a 1500 rpm wheel. The charging battery's condition will dictate the rpm in relation to the source battery. The less charge in a battery, the slower the wheel will go. As the battery charges and de-sulfates the wheel goes faster. Until you start overcharging the battery, then the wheel will slow. Since there is no cap dump on the original schematic, with a external power source, you can easily over charge the battery, if left running over night, as a typical wheel outputs 100s of volts with the spikes.

In the original experiment, the idea was to draw less charge from the source than what is being put back into the charge battery. With the original circuit, this requires constant attention as the source battery drops and the charge battery increases. Yes, it is a pain, but it does show something other than conventional power loss.
Good Luck,
Randy