Window Motor Replication

[tjnlsn255]

Thank you Ren for all your insights and help...

I am still working on my rotor and the frame to hold the window coils but it is getting closer every day.....

I am really enjoying this... with the 1/2 circuit this is a good progression for me from my SSG.... and I am hoping to some how combine both.....

Have a most excellent evening.....

Tj

[ren]

you can use the SG circuit to test it and get it running, at least on 3 of the poles anyway. To switch on the souths you would need a different circuit, or perhaps center tapped coils with an SG circuit on each leg.

I think there is room for a bit of power in it, I am leaning towards a mosfet circuit for it too. Plenty of playing around ahead.

[tjnlsn255]

Hi Ren,

This adventure is one of the few great spices of life.....

Are we having fun yet..... H*LL YES!

Be happy.....

Tj

[tjnlsn255]

Thin aluminum flashing strip?

I have a ceramic magnet that is 3" x 2" x 1" and I want to temperarily secure it to my rotor while I check my rotor for balance and for N,N,N,N,N,N versus
N,S,N,S,N,S orientation before I resin the whole thing together.

I was thinking about using a thin aluminum 1/2" wide strip to hold the magnets in place.

Will the aluminum strip disturb the magnetic field across the 3" x 2" face of the magnet so much that testing will be affected?

I also thought of using large very strong tie-wrap but they are thick and will increase the air gap between the surface of the magnet and the coil....

The magnets are mounted inside a channel in a 3" plastic rotor.

My other thought was to use side plates holding the sides only of the magnets but I am not sure how fast my motor will spin yet and do not want the magnets flying off the rotor.....

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.....

Tj

[ren]

Hi Tj,

This is what concerned me the most when I was construction my first model. If one wants a safe rotor then affixing the magnets securely should be paramount. I used a little aluminum angle piece screwed down on either side of my magnets on the first build which can be seen on some of my videos/pictures. It worked ok, stopped the magnets from slipping from side to side.

I have a generator here that I am pulling apart and it has two HUGE ring magnets attached to steel, and they are held on by a aluminum shield which covers the entire face. I think it should still work if you want to try a aluminum retainer. Something else that was suggested to me was nylon, or a seatbelt type material. The only dilemma would be fixing it, but it would surely be up to the task of retaining any magnet up to the weight of a human being in a head on collision.

I had my latest rotor plastic welded which may also be an option if you have a plastic rotor.

Regards

[tjnlsn255]

Thanks Ren,

I think I will try the tie-wraps as they are ready to go and no fabrication is needed.... the holes that I drill for the tie-wraps can be used for the aluminum straps if I decide to go that way later......

The seat belt webbing is an interesting idea also... I wonder how thick it is....
I have a couple old Jeep back seat belts.... very interesting.....

Hopefully I will figure out which configuration I like the best and then I can resin and fiberglass the whole thing when I have decided on my configuration.

I got my first set of magnets mounted tonight and hopefully I will have them all mounted and spin the rotor in the next day or two....

I will take a couple pictures to post when I have given it a test spin...

My mechanic at my local auto garage has a huge belt driven drill press and said he would help me balance it if it vibrates to much..... he is mildly curious about what I am doing.....

Have a most excellent evening.....

Tj

[ren]

Tie wraps are a start. Dont be pushing higher voltages through it unless you have the utmost confidence. Seat belt material is generally fairly thin, thinner than most cable ties anyway. And it is alot wider too. Like I mentioned though, the trick will be fixing it to the rotor, or getting it sewn in a continous loop etc.

Balancing will help significantly so will good bearings and a straight rotor to begin with! Ive spent probably 3 months at least rebuilding this one. I dont want anything McGyvered on it. A little outside help from the people with the right tools will go along way too. Getting them interested is good too.

[Mark]

Hi Ren

How much longer till you get Vader going. Can't wait to see it in operation. I should have my new window motor going soon just waiting on a couple transistors for the south pole side of my sequential bipolar circuit. Runs pretty well on a simple circuit. 4300 rpm at .5 amps 12 volts.

[tjnlsn255]

Magnets and coils?

Hi Mark,

Just curious, what is the size of your magnets, how many poles, and what is the gauge of your window coil and how many turns/wraps on your coil/s?

Are you planning to use your window motor to drive anything mechanically?

Have a most excellent day...

Tj

[ren]

Hi Ren

How much longer till you get Vader going. Can't wait to see it in operation. I should have my new window motor going soon just waiting on a couple transistors for the south pole side of my sequential bipolar circuit. Runs pretty well on a simple circuit. 4300 rpm at .5 amps 12 volts.

Hi Mark,

Is that Ricks window motor kit? Sounds good. I am still waiting on parts being machined for mine, It could be months before it is up and running at the moment. I'll post an update here when things move along.

Regards

[Mark]

Hi Ren

Yes its Ricks window motor. Finally got the rest of the circuit yesterday. Had a hard time getting it going though. Had to run it off the half circuit first to find why it wouldn't run. Discovered a missing connection on the full circuit diagram. On the full circuit it doesn't show the diode going from emmiter to base on the MPSA06. It looks like the diode goes from the base of the MJL21194 directly to the base of the MPSA06. Needs to have a little dot on the diagram showing the base of the MJL21194 connects to the emmiter of the MPSA06 and then a diode goes up to the base of the MPSA06. Anyways finally got it going on the full circuit. This one is going to be a bear to tune. Many variables, not really sure wear I want to start. 1 battery or 2. There are at least 4 spots if not 6 for pots. How much voltage to use. Do I get a flywheel, commutator or what. I'd like to use one battery and try to back pop it with a cap. I might try to use a transistor and an air core trigger but not sure yet, still playing and thinking.

[Mark]

Hi TJ

Check out Ricks web site first it will answere a lot of your questions.
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[tjnlsn255]

Hi Mark,

The link to Rick's web site does not work?

I am looking at the full circuit and it has two Hall triggers... Why two triggers?

Is one for South and one for North?

Can I use a tri-filar with two triggers windings?

What is required to get a trigger winding circuit to trigger on a South magnet? Do I just reverse the trigger winding start/finish from the opposite side?

Can I use to seperate 1/2 circuits one for the North side and one for the South side with seperate triggers and will the 1/2 circuit trigger on a South magnet or do I need to change something?

On the 1/2 circuit schematic is says the battery can be 6 to 18 volts.... can it be higher... say 24 volts?

What happens if you leave the CEMF switch on all the time and send the output of the bridge back to the battery of the 1/2 circuit?

Thanks for any and all help......

Tj

[Mark]

Hi TJ

Your right for some reason Ricks sight is down right now I'm sure it will be back up soon.

Yes 2 triggers one for north and one for south.

Yes you can use a trifilar on the full circuit 2 triggers and 1 for power.

Just reverse the start and end wires on one trigger for the south trigger.

If you use 2 half circuits you need 2 bifilar coils and on the south pole coil switch both ends or just turn the coil upside down.

I havent tried the the bipolar set up with more than 12 volts yet. More than 18 volts may damage the mpsa06 but I'm not sure.
On the full circuit running the CEMF back to primary drops the input a little on a meter but supposedly the meter doesn't tell the whole story. I haven't run enough testing on that to really now how much effect it really has and haven't tried it on the half circuit.

Let me know what you find, ok.

[tjnlsn255]

Thanks Mark!

Ok I have my window motor all put together and tried it out on my Bedini SG circuit but the coil windings just hum and the rotor does not maintain a spin.... I tried swapping the start and end of the windings for both the trigger and the power coil but it just hums either way.....

I have a 12" diameter 6 pole rotor.... each pole is a 3 x 2 x 1 ceramic magnet with the 3" length facing the window windings.... I unwound one of my SG bifilar coils for the window windings so maybe it is not enough windings to drive the rotor.... do have an additional 6 magnets that I can add.... should I stack them on top of the 6 I already have mounted or expand my rotor so that I end up with 6 x 2 x 1 facing the windings.....

Currently I have the magnets set up as N, S, N, S, N, S but I tried it as all Ns also and it still just hums as the magnets pass the windings.... but it does not keep going.....

Can I add more 20 guage windings to my existing 20 guage windings? Do I solder the new wire to the end of my existing power winding or join them together at a terminal block or do I need unwind the whole thing to get a longer power winding?

When I spin the rotor the humming sound occurs as the magnets pass the windings.....

Also I have a 1/4" air gap between my windings and the magnets.... that is probably to much, right?

My windings are 22 and 20 guage wire about 4 ' around each 150 turns total....

I guess maybe I just need to build the 1/2 circuit and see if that works.....

Thanks for any and all help.....

Tj