Massive Neos with the SSG
Yes, I know I know don't use neos, ( but I am a kid that must try everything
I put the 140LB force neos in my SSG and I found a few things.
1. Hard to keep the welding rods from jumping to the magnets ( as you might of guessed ) I did master this but something to contend with.
2. Charging batteries shot up faster. Which is great.
3. Coil got VERY Warm I still could handle it with my hands but was getting to the point that I did not want to hold it very long.
I also have been working on putting a windmill generator inline with this. as can be seen from my youtube videos. I have been learning alot about 3 phase generators..
Having fun...
mart
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Bedini SG
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Only one lights up for me.
I put a cap in the circuit in place of the battery to see what the voltage would go up to. It went to about 120v but I pulled the switch because I wasn't sure if the neon would blow. It got pretty bright.
What would be the best way to let the voltage go to max without destroying the neon or the transistor?
Solace
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Neon lamp light
It's been awhile since I played with my SSG so recently I got more spools of wire and decided to test a different coil setup. Instead of bifilar winding I did a simple pancake with one trigger and one power.
But that's not the reason for this post, I would like to know about your SSG setups and the NE-2 lamp in them...
Do both electrodes of your lamp light up or just the negative electrode (emitter side) when no load (charging battery) is present?
I could've sworn that in my very first setup the NE-2 lit fully (both electrodes) and now with my recent coil, as well as the pancake one, only the negative electrode lights up (or have I lost my mind and both electrodes never lit up)!?
Thanks.
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Well i did some calculations and my sg is giving back about 81 percent of the energy but i need to upgrade a few things and tune it correctly because its all done by eye as they would say btu 81 % is not bad i wonder if the sg give that back if it were under load ?
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This is a demonstration model that I built. I am glad I didnt dismantle it for a future project. It is actually designed to be a cap pulser, the third winding I was going to send to bridge. I am still accumulating the parts for the circuit so I just play with what I got. I still learned something new today, and I was amazed at the efficiency of it on 24 volts. I have three or four models in the works, and its never just working on one
By the way that window motor is really easy to build. Even easier than the sg in some respects. You can use neos too. After fiddling around with it I can get it to run off 360ma. I can also bump it into solid state @500ma draw. I found that when a battery gets to the 13.20 mark if it is left turning it slowly increases up and up as can be expected. But if I bump it into solid state it shoots to over 15v in about a minute! I think I'd like to replicate a solidstate setup next after those results.Last edited by ren; 01-22-2008, 10:23 PM.
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lol didnt think you pinched one!
Just wondering why you have gone back to a single coil set up when you have made more advanced models already... that window motor is a beauty!
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I just name it for what it is.It is John Bedinis design give or take the shortcomings of my own replication. I didnt mean it was HIS like I went and pinched it from the shop I guess if I wanted to be more technical I would have refered to it as his trifilar slave configuration, although in the video it is firing on one winding only.
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I didn't know that was you! Saw your dual and tri coilers... very impressive builds on all your motors!
but why do you call this one JB's monopole? Is it a replication of one of his particular models as opposed to just a replication of the circuit?
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Nicely done Sep! It is interesting to note the positive effects of a well balanced circuit! Perhaps your circular pattern is similar to Jb's conductor bus bars for a reason related to geometry as much as impedance and flow benefits. The batteries sound like they will respond well to cycling.
Short vid I made today.
YouTube - JB's monopole sg
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interesting...
this is interesting... and nice!
I recently rewired my circuit and amp draw has practically halfed!
my original circuit I designed to keep it as compact as possible including keeping all the transistors as close as possible (which I thought would improve performance)
as shown:
You see the little huddle in the bottom left corner?
well the amp draw on that was always between 800 - 950 ma (the very lowest it would run at top speed was 750 ma if I fiddled with the pot after it reached top speed)
but seeing as how nearly all other models have their transistors closer to their coils I thought I'd do something different:
the two wires around the circumferance are the primary negative and the secondary positive
and the triangle in the centre is the trigger
both the wires ends around the perimeter are connected so that they are basically a hoop.
anyway... not sure why but the amp draw is now a steady 460 ma... that is a solid sweet spot and no fiddling with the pot can improve that... it is spinning at its highest speed and drawing the lowest amps. adjusting the pot either way increases amps and lowers rpm.
can't explain why this geometry has such an effect...
and a brief update on my batteries...
the gel cell appears to be in mint condition after a single super charge.
the two lead acids are a different story...
tired super charging them once (same as the gel cell) but they didn't hold the charge very well under load...
so seriously super charged those two again. Basically left them boiling for about two days after they reached maximum voltage. but after leaving them for a little while thier resting voltages were 12.93 and 12.98 so still not in good condition.
so supercharged them for another 8 hours and their resting voltages went up to 13.27 and 13.38! this was pretty astonishing since they hadn't increased in voltage after the previous 2 days of charging... so it looks like a rest period (or perhaps a discharge period) is needed when conditioning old batteries....
just started cycling them on the motor to see how well they perform this time...
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glad to hear it Elias! Another thing you can do to protect your circuit it wire the neon in with a 3k or 4k resistor on one of its legs too. This will help absorb some of the voltage and reduce the stress the neon handles. The neon can only absorb so much.
I saw a 250volt flash tube the other day, designed for strobe lights, right next to the neon container at the store. I wonder how one of them would go? Dance party!
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Originally posted by ren View PostThese are the mj15022 i think. The mjs are a bit pricey so make sure you get your circuit down pat.
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Arron
Thank you so much for pointing me in that direction. Now I can use all the wheels and bearings I was going to use for a Bedini wheel and use it to tinker on my attraction motor.
George
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solid state
Hi George,
That is an excellent deduction! Check the threads for "solid state" Bedini circuits or "oscillators." You actually don't need a 555 circuit for it as they can find their own frequency.
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Question
I hope this doesn't seem to dumb a question. What if you used something like a 555 timer chip on the bedini circuit to pulse the coil and then collect the radiant energy as you do now, Couldn't you loose the wheel all together then? I am still learning about these things so I hope that question doesn't offend anyone.
Thanks,
George Mielcarek
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