Bedini SG

[Sephiroth]

Sorry david, I am still confused about what you are doing. Could you upload a schematic showing where you are reading the voltages?

[DavidE]

Sephiroth

But I am not sure where you have the leads on the other example giving you the high voltages. Is the negative lead connect to the negative of the charging battery as well and the postive lead connected to the cathode of the diode (the positive of the charging battery)?

Standard SSG circuit. Diode on the positive terminal of the charging battery. Remove from the positive terminal... testing anode side and cathode side while it is disconnected from the battery.

When the diode is removed from the charging battery, the amber neon glows.

For this test, the negative terminal on the charging battery is still connected to the positive on the primary battery side. I tested it without being connected to the negative terminal no change in results... the results I am finding are not related to the charging battery...

[Sephiroth]

so first the negative lead is connected to the negative of the charging battery and the positive lead is connected to the anode of the diode? That would give you the voltage across the coil.

But I am not sure where you have the leads on the other example giving you the high voltages. Is the negative lead connect to the negative of the charging battery as well and the postive lead connected to the cathode of the diode (the positive of the charging battery)?

[DavidE]

Voltmeter Readings

Sephiroth

Both measurements were taken at the charging battery.

-Set up one utilized a 12v battery as the primary.
-The second set up was using a 12v plug in power source (110-12v power adapter).

#1
Diode on the charging circuit anode side has -2.9v, at the same time 43v on the cathode side.

#2
Second set up, the diode has -10v on the anode side 97v on the cathode side.

Note: The measurements were taken at the diode NOT connected to the battery in either test. Results (ratios) seem relative to the amount of force being applied by a primary battery or a 12v power adapter.

[Sephiroth]

I believe one configuration will be showing you the voltage across the coil and the other configuration will be showing you the voltage of the charging battery

Are you using 12v batteries?

[DavidE]

Testing Probe Location

Shamus

Negative probe on negative side of charging battery. Positive to diode (disconnected from the positive side of the charging battery).

And that actually makes the anode measurement a negative value and the cathode side a positive value. Same numbers as previously posted.

I am trying to understand what is the radiant "trigger," then what parts become gateways for like atmospheric/dimensional energy flow (or whatever you wish to call it).

[Shamus]

Where are you measuring--i.e., where are both probes located?

[DavidE]

Oh my.

Originally Posted by DavidE
Bodkins

I watched your youtube video but thought that I may search
for similar effects with the lv SSG. Here is what I found.

I built a standard SSG, orginal schematic Imhotep/Bedini.

12v 7a Primary battery
(2) 6v 4a Charge batteries hooked in series

I disconnected the positive lead going to the charge battery (the one with the diode).

I spun the fan to start resonation and turned the pot until the fan stopped spinning, but kept up its resonant audible pitch.

1st test. I tested voltage (dc) on the anode side and got a +2.2v and with a little twist of the pot I could adjust up to +2.9v Note: if you go too far out of the resonant range with the pot, it will quench the resonation and you will need to re-start it. (these actual numbers will vary based on type and condition of the power source that you are using)

2nd test. I tested the voltage on the cathode side (the side that would normally be hooked to the + on the charge battery) it read +36v. Hmmm. I then connected an earth ground to the cathode side and the voltage went up to +43v. This is without it being attached to the battery.

3rd test. Once earth ground is attached, and your voltmeter probe is still connected to the cathode side of your diode... touch various parts of your circuit and notice which parts of it produce a favorable rise in voltage, or the opposite. In fact you can even touch the insulated wire on your hooked up voltmeter, voltage increases! Very strange.

An earth ground (or something about that type of effect) seems to make certain parts of the circuit open to atmospheric flow or promote some kind of radiant properties. Where the earth ground is best placed in the circuit is open to further work. I must admit that I noticed Bedini's earth ground symbol on his simple SG circuit but at the time didn't bother exploring it's benefit.

Originally Posted by DavidE
Same set up as before... but eliminated the batteries.

Utilized a 500ma 12v dc power supply (Chinese plug in the wall variety)

Actual output of power supply +15.4v.

Power measurement at cathode (charging side) +97v.

Removing earth ground causes it to read (at the same place on the cathode) +64v.

All measurements on the 200v DC scale.

Steady state power supply seems to have stabilized resonant frequency.

So here is my novice question. Are these effects truly radiant or are we reading results more consistent with some kind of typical coil/magnetic field transformer effect?

Ok, will someone help me with a simple explanation for this effect???

Diode on the charging circuit anode side has 2.9v, at the same time 43v on the cathode side.

Second set up, the diode has 10v on the anode side 97v on the cathode side.







I thought that i understood what a simple diode did... now I am not sure.

Diode-Function of a diode is to allow an electric current to pass in one direction and to block it in the opposite direction.

[dambit]

Hi Todd,

I built my first device using a stainless steel bolt and it worked fine. I noticed before you said that you had your pot set to about 600ohms, then a 100ohm resitor. Set the pot to zero and then as it speeds up adjust it until you get a good speed vs current input.

Also, does the bolt fit snugly into the coil core, or is there a large gap. Make sure that it fills the whole coil core. And recheck your connections, sometimes mine didn't work simply because a clip was a little loose.

Cheers,

Steve.

[gmeat]

I think my coil is not big enough for the magnets I have....

My power coil resistance is 7 ohms of 20 gauge wire and my trigger coil is 16 ohms of 24 gauge wire.

Can I add an additional winding to my existing power coil over the top of the existing coil and connect them in series or should I wrap a completely new coil?

Should I use and iron or copper core?

I was going to use the copper welding rod material but somewhere I read that if it is magnetic then it is not the right type?

Stainless steel does not keep its magnetism so why would that not be good for a core? What happens when the core gets permanently magnetized or does it cancel itself out every cycle?

I did swap the transistor and I soldered the diode directly over the emitter/base leads of the transistor and it almost gets going......

Should the start or the end of the trigger coil go to the base of the transistor and does it matter?

Thank you for all the help....

Todd

Hi Todd,


It sounds to me that the Stainless core is your problem because when the magnet approaches the coil it's not inducing enough voltage in the coil because of a non magnetic core material (Stainless steel).An iron core or the welding rods will work better because the iron core will make the voltage in the coil rise a bit higher so as to trigger the transistor to allow current to flow.The beginning of your trigger coil (The wire that's closer to the core) goes to your primary battery negative terminal and the other end goes to your resistor or potentiometer then through the lightbulb then to the base.It could also be that you have to high of a resistor value so you try lowering that as well but I'd suggest starting with a different core material.Let us know if this helps.Good luck


-Gary

[tjnlsn255]

I think my coil is not big enough for the magnets I have....

My power coil resistance is 7 ohms of 20 gauge wire and my trigger coil is 16 ohms of 24 gauge wire.

Can I add an additional winding to my existing power coil over the top of the existing coil and connect them in series or should I wrap a completely new coil?

Should I use and iron or copper core?

I was going to use the copper welding rod material but somewhere I read that if it is magnetic then it is not the right type?

Stainless steel does not keep its magnetism so why would that not be good for a core? What happens when the core gets permanently magnetized or does it cancel itself out every cycle?

I did swap the transistor and I soldered the diode directly over the emitter/base leads of the transistor and it almost gets going......

Should the start or the end of the trigger coil go to the base of the transistor and does it matter?

Thank you for all the help....

Todd

[gmeat]

When I put the battery accross the power coil it repelles the magnet that part should be correct.... I will re verify that all 4 magnets are north facing so that with a North coil I should repell when turning on.....

I have 100 ohm fixed resistor and 1k pot that I start out in the middle so probably around 600 ohms....

I took the little light bulb out of the trigger circuit and now when I hook up the batteries the coil makes noises as a pass the rotor magnets over the coil but it still does not take off and spin on its own.... also the voltage on the base of the transistor never gets above .2 volts when I spin the rotor so the transistor is never turning on, correct?

I have a stainless steel bolt in the middle of my coil for a core, is that ok?

The magnets are less than 1/4" away from the coil when they reach the edge of the coil and also when they are directly over the coil....

For a diode the ---|<--- the silver band is the anode (|<) correct?

I think my problem is that the transistor is not turning on......so I will put in a different transistor...more to come....

Thank you for the fast replies......:-)

This is very exciting......

Oh also... I used my car battery charger and charged the primary battery to 13.1 volts now so it is good and strong....

Keep the comments and ideas coming.......

Be happy.....

Tj

Hi Todd,


Try using a different core material thats not stainless steel.That could be your problem.Hope that helps


-Gary

[ren]

the silver band on the end of the diode is the cathode. It should be closest to the + of the charge battery off the collector and closest to the base for the one over the emitter/base. That alone will cause you dramas if it isnt set right.

If you can hear noise when hooked up it is either diodes in the wrong way or too much resistance.

[tjnlsn255]

When I put the battery accross the power coil it repelles the magnet that part should be correct.... I will re verify that all 4 magnets are north facing so that with a North coil I should repell when turning on.....

I have 100 ohm fixed resistor and 1k pot that I start out in the middle so probably around 600 ohms....

I took the little light bulb out of the trigger circuit and now when I hook up the batteries the coil makes noises as a pass the rotor magnets over the coil but it still does not take off and spin on its own.... also the voltage on the base of the transistor never gets above .2 volts when I spin the rotor so the transistor is never turning on, correct?

I have a stainless steel bolt in the middle of my coil for a core, is that ok?

The magnets are less than 1/4" away from the coil when they reach the edge of the coil and also when they are directly over the coil....

For a diode the ---|<--- the silver band is the anode (|<) correct?

I think my problem is that the transistor is not turning on......so I will put in a different transistor...more to come....

Thank you for the fast replies......:-)

This is very exciting......

Oh also... I used my car battery charger and charged the primary battery to 13.1 volts now so it is good and strong....

Keep the comments and ideas coming.......

Be happy.....

Tj

[patmac]

yeah ren good advice for tjnlsn255

Depend if you rotor is South or North pole, use a compass to verify magnets poles sides. (If you don't have a compass you can take a magnet attached over a cork and putting on the water with vertical poles orientation, the magnet self aligned on Earth poles, then South magnet pole is attracted by Earth North pole (but remember earth north pole is magnetically south pole).

Mark the magnet and test the rotor magnets with him.

If your rotor is correct (normally north pole faces out), you can take a 220 ohm resistor and connect to positive to Base transistor, and your transistor must to activate the coil and rotor must be repelled. If coil don't turn on must check the transistor....

good luck.