Bedini SG

[Aaron]

SG - bike wheel

The bike wheel won't be super fast.

One of the benefits of the bike wheel is that since it has a larger diameter, it has been measured to have more torque than almost any other configuration, even with one coil - close to 30% worth of mechanical work, which is a LOT.

These are not motors so they're not designed to produce much mechanical work but that mechanical work is a free side benefit and the bike wheel gives the most.

[minoly]

I got my 24" bedini wheel going, using 12v batt. And 100 ohm resistor. 700-800 turns of .80mm and .56mm wire, and a copper coated steel welding rod core. I am seeing people say they get anywhere from 1,500-10,000 rpm from their sg's. mine spins 120-180 rpm max. How can i get my wheel jamming like the others?

Yes, What he said. However, what is the purpose of the "Bedini Bike Wheel"?
if we were looking for speed, you might want to look else-where.

You are looking for the spike - it's all about the spike. You want it clean and mean. Low to no Amp draw.
John Bedini has been posting here:

John Bedini

Glad you found these pages at Energetic Forum, but if you want answers that come from JB, the above link is where you want to be.
See you there,
Patrick

[Sephiroth]

I got my 24" bedini wheel going, using 12v batt. And 100 ohm resistor. 700-800 turns of .80mm and .56mm wire, and a copper coated steel welding rod core. I am seeing people say they get anywhere from 1,500-10,000 rpm from their sg's. mine spins 120-180 rpm max. How can i get my wheel jamming like the others?

Such high speeds are easy to achieve with smaller rotors My MG1 was the fastest motor I built which went over 8000rpm with a 5" rotor (very fast for a rotor that size)

MG-1 : 8550rpm, 712hz, 193km/h - YouTube

For a bike wheel you can expect it will be a lot slower, but remember there will be more pulses per revolution because you have more magnets It might be slower, but that doesn't make it any less powerful!

[Gpilot]

I got my 24" bedini wheel going, using 12v batt. And 100 ohm resistor. 700-800 turns of .80mm and .56mm wire, and a copper coated steel welding rod core. I am seeing people say they get anywhere from 1,500-10,000 rpm from their sg's. mine spins 120-180 rpm max. How can i get my wheel jamming like the others?

[scratchrobot]

My replication of the sg radiant oscillator tube. Made from an 2n3055
youtube
youtube

[tachyoncatcher]

Whatsup

I have come up with my solution to topping up the source batt without any switching etc...it seems to stop the drawn down of my source batt....so I'd hate to state what that means...

My schematic attached to this post.

Hey Radiant,
How did that work out for you? My understanding of the problems with charge-back to the power battery is not that it can't be done, but rather it crystallizes the battery over a short time. A chemistry thing with the radiant. You can hot charge a battery while drawing from it, but not cold charge it while drawing from it. Even cap pulsers seem to cause this effect. Now if you could bring it up to speed with a battery, then switch it to a cap bank for power that is charged by that circuit... Well.. . Love to see your rig. Pictures?
Randy

[boohah]

Opinions

Hey Randy

Don't be sorry mate, brutal truth is the best kind. I am going to follow your recommendations and make a larger machine with more spread on the coils and magnets. I am also going to make new coils with a smaller core diameter. I imagine I have a couple of weeks work ahead of me though so I might drop off the radar.

Thanks for your opinion, much appreciated.

Doug

[tachyoncatcher]

My Opinion

Based on my experience, here are the problems I see. Parallel coils close to each other- can cause cross induction to other coils when one fires. this causes drag as the magnet approaches next coil and it makes it imposible to correct with timing. As the magnet causes current when it passes a coil, so can a energized coil cause current to an adjacent coil. Bedini suggests a 3 magnet space between magnets for seperation, I have done ok with 2 anything less and radiant goes away and timing becomes slushy. From what I can tell, Bedini uses 3/4 to 5/8 inch cores. I have used upto 1.125 inch core with success. I tried larger yet (1.25) and radiant went away. I have many reject coil bobbins.
Doug, you need to seperate those magnets and coils OR use smaller magnets and smaller coils for that rotor size. If you can't get it to charge with one coil, then it will not charge with multiple coils. There is a reason Bedini suggests a 22-26 in bicycle wheel for your first pulse motor. Sorry, I wish I had easier recommendations for you.
Good Luck!
Randy

[boohah]

Questions

Hi Randy

Don't worry about the basic questions, its obviously something basic that is causing my problems and I really appreciate the though you are putting into this

The unit is made up of three perpex triangles, each one has three 12 inch sides. The coils are three inches in diameter with a core radius of 1.5 inches and a coil depth of 2.5 inches. The depth of the entire unit including control circuits is 8 inches. The rotor is a perspex disk 6 inches in diameter and I have made a lot of these. All are easily interchangable and have either 3, 6 or 12 magnets in both neodynium and ceramic. I am currently using ceramic magnets only though. Magnets are 2 inches in diameter and are disk shaped.

I determined the north pole by using a test magnet I bought with north and south pole marked and the side that repels north is north. Most magnets are already marked out of the box but I have tested them all the same.

I have tried running the unit with only one coil and it offers a higher spin speed and no charge. I would really love to own an oscilloscope to get a really good look at what is happening.

Doug

[tachyoncatcher]

Questions

Hey Doug,
Nice workmanship. Hard to see scale from the picture. Some dimensions would be helpful. Rotor size, coil core size. It looks a bit close for a multi-coiler. Think about the fields of the coils and how they interact. Have you tried disconnecting 2 of the coils and their circuits and tuning one coil as I suggested earlier? How did you determine the north face of the magnets and coils? Sorry if I ask basic questions. Many a motor has failed to start due to magnet/coil orientation.
Randy

[boohah]

Bedini SSG

Hi All

I have attached a photo of the multicoil machine so you guys can pick it to bits As my phone is my only digital camera, there are a couple of things I should explain as the photo doesn't. The machine is constructed of perspex and 316 stainless steel thread rods (ie. no iron content and non magnetic). The circuit is mounted on a laminated aluminium disk to disperse any heat the transistors may produce. The rotating disk has three ceramic magnets located on its face and they are arranged with the north pole facing the coils.

To Stonewater, the circuit is exactly to your specs other than it isnt built on a bicycle wheel and it has three coils. Each bifilar coil has its own circuit.

To Tachyoncatcher, the three coil motor is a monopole and all three coils are independently tuneable with potentiometers from 0 to 10,000 ohms. The unit is remarkably simple to tune and operate in the three coil arrangement.

Thanks for your replies, if you need anything else to crack this, let me know and I will post it for you.

Doug

Photo0561.jpg

[tachyoncatcher]

Complications

Doug,
Your first motor described is not a monopole. It is probably a neo magnet and Bedini says to use ceramics. The ball magnet, as it spins, presents both poles to the coil.

The second motor may be ok in construction, but you have started with too complicated a setup without having a thorough understanding of the workings of this motor. Take off the 2 slave coils and make it run and charge with one coil. It is attainable with one coil. It will run with a small rotor, as you have , but the tuning is more critical. Make sure all "ceramic magnets are north facing out. Remember, its not that you can't make it work with North/South arrangements, but this little beast can be very frustrating if you do not "see" what is going on. Keep it stupid simple (KISS) and you will start to grasp the working of this motor/energizer. Then you can start to experiment in such a way that you will experience stuff that just don't make sense by today's standards . if you still can't get it working, post pictures of your circuits/constructs and we will try to determine what's wrong.
Good Luck!

[stonewater]

you need a bike wheel fo the trigger. ceramic magnets on a 26 inch rim as many as you can get 3 to 5 magnet widths apart. 150 feet bifilar 23 and 26 awg (26 is the trigger) mjl21194 for the transistor. 1n4001 emmiter to base. 1n4007 collecter. 100ohm fixed resistor and1k pot for tuning. ne2 neon collector to emmiter no resistor in the ne 2. also a small milliamp grain of wheat bulb helps tuning in series on the trigger.

if it is not charging, the coils are too small for the batteries. big batteries big coils.
Tom C

[boohah]

Bedini SSG Questions

Hi All

I have built two Bedini SSG's and neither of them charge batteries. The batteries I am charging are lead acid, range in size from deep cycle marine batteries to motorcycle batteries and all have had at least 10 cycles of 24 hours. I have never seen any increase in voltage or capacity in a single battery and I am asking you guys if you might know what's going on. Here are the specs for my machines:

The first has one coil, bifilar, 700 turns and uses AWG 23 wire. It has Lincoln R60 welding rods at its core an is used to spin a spherical magnet floating in motor oil. I can measure rotation up to 10,000 rpm's but the magnet easily exceeds this.

The second bedini is a multi-coil setup that spins a disc with magnets mounted on it. There are three coils, all bifilar, 1150 turn and using AWG 23 wire. The core on this machine uses the same welding rods as the first machine and spins at up to 3,000 rpm's depending on how it is tuned.

Both machines are wired exactly to Bedini's circuit diagram.

Any help would be really appreciated.

Doug

[radiant]

Great minds think alike

Yes Im aware of the "reverse" JT method. I've found it really does improve it however, for reasons Im still figuring out, at my sweet spot on the machine, the potential is greater between the output and "GND tie" on the JT instead of the "Plus side".

However, on its own, when fed with a 9V battery, the Plus side gives the same result but with reduced current draw...

[QUOTE=minoly;198629]

This is what I pictured in my mind from your first post. Very nice!

I tried something similar to this a while back but with a cap between the the genny coil and the JT. And a cap across a pot to the base of the JT. I've also added this to Dr Stiffler's ckt to charge back the primary w/o the genny of course - here, instead I used the two diodes to a cap. I posted a video some time back. It did not pan out as well for me, although I had little patience with it - LOL