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  • gmeat
    replied
    Hey Guys,

    I'll say 220 milliamps for now because I dont have a analog panel meter as I have 3 digital meters and I also just uploaded a short video to show ya's my crackpot ideas lol.

    YouTube - SSG low amps
    -Gary
    Last edited by gmeat; 03-25-2008, 01:42 AM.

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  • ren
    replied
    do you mean 0.022 amps? As in the 10 amp setting on a multimeter

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  • Sephiroth
    replied
    Originally posted by gmeat View Post
    Hi Ren,

    Radiant soup lol,I just had to try it.I currently have it running on .022 milliamps and it has a cool ringing sound to it but I'm not sure how well it will charge a second battery although as I write this my recovery battery stands at 13.04v so I'll let it run all night being its not even putting a dent in the run battery and I'll do a load test tommorow night.


    -Gary
    0.022 milliamps!?

    Leave a comment:


  • gmeat
    replied
    cool sound

    Originally posted by ren View Post
    Radiant soup


    Hi Ren,

    Radiant soup lol,I just had to try it.I currently have it running on .220 milliamps and it has a cool ringing sound to it but I'm not sure how well it will charge a second battery although as I write this my recovery battery stands at 13.04v so I'll let it run all night being its not even putting a dent in the run battery and I'll do a load test tommorow night.


    -Gary
    Last edited by gmeat; 03-25-2008, 01:43 AM.

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  • Sephiroth
    replied
    my three cores are iron filings.

    though I don't think you should let it set under a magnetic field... pretty sure using a magnetically charged core is a bad idea...

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  • Jetijs
    replied
    My coil will be a 1' long cylinder with a 1" diameter using glue and
    iron fillings. This is dry while under a magnetic field.
    Dodeca,
    you can do that and you should try, but using iron fillings as a core could make some problems as such core might not magnetize as good as an iron rod or the welding rods. This way it will not have enough magnetic force to repel the magnets properly. I tried using magnetite cores once, they work fine as a generator, but are weak electromagnets.
    Nevertheless you should try this out!

    Leave a comment:


  • dodeca
    replied
    Do coils and capacitors do more than we were taught in electronics class?

    Hello experimenters

    Questions

    1. Do coils and capacitors do more than we were taught in electronics class?
    2. Is it possible that in an energized coil that "time/space" is squeezed?
    3. Is it possible that between plates of a large high voltage cap "time/space" is stretched?


    I have been studying and plan to build my own Bedini SG but with
    my own modifications. I plan to use wheelchair wheels and 2 LARGE
    magnets out of an old hard drive. As a tech I see the Bedini SG
    as a efficient pulse motor with a cool way to use back EMF TO CHARGE
    A BATTERY. I am posting my ideas so that I can get feedback from the
    group and any success I will share in FULL. Also if a smarter person
    can stop me from a bad idea or a dead end path ... that is most welcome.

    I plan to build my own coil with a few changes to the standard model.

    My coil will be a 1' long cylinder with a 1" diameter using glue and
    iron fillings. This is dry while under a magnetic field.

    I plan to wind three coils. Solid wire

    Trigger coil - 22 ga
    Run coil - 18 ga
    Work coil - 12 ga ( this is the coil I hope to power a load with )

    The windings will each be only ONE layer thick. ( I will limit current on RUN coil so as not to burn transistor )

    Another idea I had was to remove the charging battery and use the
    DC high voltage for charging 3" x 12" copper plates as in a capacitor.

    My plan is to put the coil between these plates.

    The concept being that capacitors stretch "time/space" energy
    and that coils squeeze it.

    Could this be one method of pulling energy from the vacuum?


    Dodeca

    Leave a comment:


  • Jetijs
    replied
    If I remember correctly, Peter once said that this would increase rotor torque and speed, but the charging will suffer. I tried once to put a thick metal sheet on the other pole of my ssg coil. The amp draw increased a little.

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  • ren
    replied
    Radiant soup

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  • gmeat
    replied
    crazy Ideaz

    Hello Everybody,

    Has anyone ever tried putting a soup can over a SSG coil ?.I wonder how that would affect things lol.


    -Gary
    Last edited by gmeat; 05-05-2008, 04:26 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrbreau
    replied
    1 ohm test

    While I'm not positive, I think once you perform the one ohm test then you are *good to go* with ANY battery. It is MY understanding that the one ohm test is to ensure that we aren't trying to charge the battery with CURRENT! The LAST thing I want in this circuit is high amperage. That's what any wall-wart will do, or any store bought battery charger for that matter, supply current to the battery.

    And too, if you've charged small rechargeables already, what makes you think that larger batteries are more of a problem? Whatever.

    Warren
    ..

    Leave a comment:


  • theremart
    replied
    Originally posted by mrbreau View Post
    I've just come across a way to test the CIRCUIT. It is called the 1 ohm test and can be found on the Yahoo Bedini_Monopole3 group. Look for post number 2214. It explains everything to do BEFORE running the setup. BTW, this is a group for beginners, like me. I don't know about you but I want to AVOID as many mistakes as I can to get the setup up and running.

    Warren
    ..
    ---------------------------
    I have done the 1 ohm resistor with small batteries, but I have a question, will it just fry if I try that with my golf cart batteries? I am no electronics wiz, but I wanted to try it with my Golf cart batteries, but I am afraid I might just kill the resistor in a puff of smoke.

    thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • mrbreau
    replied
    Originally posted by jimmydean View Post
    Hello



    For some reason I keep frying the resistors between the trigger winding (North lead) and the base of my 2N3055. I've tried a 1k pot and a 680 ohm resistor and as soon as I turn it on they just smolder. The battery is a 12V 7Ah rechargeable, and I am using 20 AWG for the power and trigger windings on a 3 inch wide by 3 inch long spool. I have gas welding rods for the core material but am just trying to get it working before putting them in. I don't have a charging battery but have a neon lamp setup from collector to ground and it isn't blinking. The lamp is rated at 120 VAC so I am not sure if this is too much for the circuit. I don't have a 1N4007 in the circuit. I am following the schematic from the Starters Guide-One.pdf found at the Bedini_SG yahoo group.

    I've tested the coil by hooking my battery to the N and S leads of the trigger and power coils separately and the coils work fine when separated from the circuit.

    Has anyone experienced this before? If there is a post with a similar experience please let me know. I have only made it to page 8 so far on this thread.

    Thanks!
    I've just come across a way to test the CIRCUIT. It is called the 1 ohm test and can be found on the Yahoo Bedini_Monopole3 group. Look for post number 2214. It explains everything to do BEFORE running the setup. BTW, this is a group for beginners, like me. I don't know about you but I want to AVOID as many mistakes as I can to get the setup up and running.

    Warren
    ..

    Leave a comment:


  • smw1998a
    replied
    Inductivly coupled trigger winding

    Hi Guys,
    The relationship between the trigger winding and the power winding is that they are inductively coupled. What affects one strand will affect the others wound onto the coil, in the same way. It is how they connect to the circuit and what they are connected to that change the character of the wave.

    If you watched my video you will have seen the “h” waveform. The hump of the “h” is the magnets approach to the stator core. Because the hump is above the zero volt line you would think that the voltage induced is positive. Well, it is I suppose. But the important thing you must realise is that the base of the transistor sees the hump of the “h” as negative voltage.

    Only when the rotor pole passes TDC does the transistor see a positive voltage at the base, soon after TDC, the voltage at the base reaches 0.6v or so and the base of the transistor conducts. Once the base starts to conduct, current from the primary battery starts to flow through the power winding. As the current passes through the power winding of the coil a magnetic field starts to expand around the coil. The rapidly expanding field induces voltage in the trigger winding and as a result more current is passed to the base of the transistor switching it “on” harder, allowing more current to flow through the coil from the primary battery and across collector emitter of the transistor, adding to the expanding magnetic field.

    The magnetic field doesn’t expand forever. Coil resistance, battery voltage, number of turns etc. all determine the maximum size of the magnetic field a coil can attain. A coil stores energy in it’s magnetic field and once the source of energy that charged the coil is removed, the field collapses. Coils hate change, so as soon as there is a change in input energy, the coil reverses it’s polarity in order to keep current moving in the same direction. I digress…

    What switches the transistor off? Once the magnetic field stops expanding there is no more voltage induced in the trigger winding, there is no more current at the base of the transistor. In order to keep current flowing, the coil reverses its polarity. This does not help the base of our transistor, now it sees a negative voltage. (0.6v across the now reverse biased base emitter diode) The transistor base is now switching the transistor “off” even harder. The result, a high voltage transient spike, followed by the remaining energy stored in the collapsing field of the coil.

    As an experiment, take a two strand SSG coil. Make sure you know which is the top pair and bottom pair of strands. Connect the cathode of an LED to one of the bottom strands and connect the anode of the LED to the top end of the same strand. Connect the negative terminal of a suitable battery to the remaining free bottom strand. Now short the positive side of the battery to the remaining top strand.

    The LED will flash briefly, the moment of induction. Even though the power side of the coil is still shorted to the battery the LED only lit for the briefest of moments. It may give off another flash when you disconnect the battery. Another thing about coils and their magnetic fields, once the magnetic field has got as big as it’s going to get, the coil becomes a resistive load. The coil will become very hot and if you’re not careful the insulation of the windings will be burnt away and the coil will be ruined.

    All The Best Lee…

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  • ren
    replied
    sep was your trigger coil of the same dimension as your power coil? did you only test one size of winding/coil as the pickup/trigger? Mart that could be something worth trying....

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