Bedini SG

[minoly]

Hi folks, hi patrick, thanks for sharing.
This might help with the capacitor dump circuit part.
The Esaki Effect - LED Flasher, one transistor - YouTube
peace love light
tyson

Hi Tyson,
does that only work at 12 volts? only lights LED?

try removing the resistors, the cap and the LED... works much better...
Take a closer look at the cap dump in my vid... same thing just w/o the extra waste of heat and w/o the limitations. I would not use this for a larger setup however.
Reona Esaki was one smart cookie, yes.
barely a mention in wiki Leo Esaki - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
here is more:
Simplest_LED_Flasher_Circuit



Patrick

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, hi patrick, thanks for sharing.
This might help with the capacitor dump circuit part.
The Esaki Effect - LED Flasher, one transistor - YouTube
peace love light
tyson

[minoly]

Bedini SSG - The Culmination - YouTube

[Shin]

Shin,

Tuning to the ratio of highest RPM for the lowest amp draw will get you in the ball park. #4 looks to be about the best. You need to get a 1Kohm pot and slowly adjust it from high ohms to low, whilst keeping an eye on the RPM and the amp draw. Once you have found the "sweet spot" replace the pot with a fixed resistor of the same value.

The purpose of the bulb is to "servo" the SSG to keep it in tune as the impedance of the battery changes through the charge cycle.

Always tune the SSG with a fully charged primary battery and a fully charged secondary battery.


John K.

Yes, again playing with the bulbs. I realized i have to add more resistance with the poti when the bulb is in to achieve the same relation between A-draw and rpm.

I have written by the way an overview over my first 30 days with my Bedini. So no big things in there, but maybe intersting for other beginners, too.
[URL="http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/showthread.php?t=9464"]

My small Bedini works with 82 Hz right now at the assumed sweet spot. I'm able to draw 800 mA but with some resistance and 380 mA draw it seems to work best and near the state of ZEN.

Shin

[Guruji]

Hey Guruji,

What frequencies are you running your SSG with and is it SS?

Regards
Zero

Hi Zeropointenergy I am sorry don't know the frequency cause I don't have a scope ;wait I have bought a modern MM with Hertz measure .I will inform you later . Yes mine is a solid state. Just normal SSG and added two resistors to become SS.
Thanks

[ZeropointEnergy]

what range?

I've changed my pot on my SSG with a bigger one and it's seems that charger is desulphating better with higher frequency.
Ok still experimenting.

Hey Guruji,

What frequencies are you running your SSG with and is it SS?

Regards
Zero

[Guruji]

Ssg

I've changed my pot on my SSG with a bigger one and it's seems that charger is desulphating better with higher frequency.
Ok still experimenting.

[ZeropointEnergy]

Slowly

Hey Dan,

Good to see you here

Yes, it will take a looong time to clean up those Trojans. Did you flush them out first? I've been having good results with a 12V 70Ah battery after draining the electrolyte, flushing it out a couple of times (whilst belting it with a rubber mallet to get all of the loose material out), filtering the electrolyte with a coffee filter bag, putting the electrolyte back in and then topping up with distilled water.

I'm onto cycle #6 and the battery is gaining capacity with each cycle. Another 20 cycles and it should be a half decent battery again.


John K.

Hey Buddy,

I did not use the rubber mallet trick on the Trojan's and will have to drain,
try knock off more debris and refill with fresh demineralized water.
(I will break down the sulfuric acid with Baking soda, then dilute further)

I have discovered more about batteries last week when I obtained a new
desulfated battery to rejuvinate. (was 28AH flooded cell) It started to take
charge from 5.29V till 12V, then after battery settled was 7V.
I concluded was due to a flake of cadium that I assumed was emptied out
in the flush and mallet cycle
However, it appeares to be still there shorting the battery and put that to the
side. I obtained a replacement from the same battery shop and this was
12.65V and only a tiny bit of sulfations on the plates.
After I flush this and refill with demineralized water will other have to do
a modest amout of work to rejuvinate back to 100%
This was from the counsil. I assume is only 2-3 yrs old and they replaced
due to age, now I have a free 12V 54AH battery

I havent flushed it yet and when I do will add a clip to youtube and shine
a torch in there so can see the amount of sulfation.

Are you using the 7 transistor bike wheel SSG for your tests?


Chat soon mate .

[John_K]

Hey,

Here is the latest SSG desulfating the trojan L16's

BM3 Spec SSG Charging Trojan 6V 420AH Battery .AVI - YouTube

Regards
Zero

Hey Dan,

Good to see you here

Yes, it will take a looong time to clean up those Trojans. Did you flush them out first? I've been having good results with a 12V 70Ah battery after draining the electrolyte, flushing it out a couple of times (whilst belting it with a rubber mallet to get all of the loose material out), filtering the electrolyte with a coffee filter bag, putting the electrolyte back in and then topping up with distilled water.

I'm onto cycle #6 and the battery is gaining capacity with each cycle. Another 20 cycles and it should be a half decent battery again.


John K.

[John_K]

Thanks for advice mbrownn!
The 'resistance required' is what im looking for. I read it's not max. speed of the rotor, it's where resonance occurs, right? At lower ampere draw. If you say put the bulb in if you know the required resistance, obviously i can't find the resonance point with the bulb...

My only idea was to plot the data over each other, to see the relationship between ampere draw, rpm, trigger voltage etc.
It's very interesting for me to analyse the behavior of my machine, but my eyes can't see the right resistance to go for.

I attach the graph and numbers i measured today.
For me the series 4 to 6 look very good (equals 400 to 600 ohm).
Could you or someone else elaborate where the 'sweet spot' is here?
Or what else i have to do to find it?
My initial thoughts seem to be wrong, that you can see the bulb flashing if resonance occurs.

Shin

My data graph:

Shin,

Tuning to the ratio of highest RPM for the lowest amp draw will get you in the ball park. #4 looks to be about the best. You need to get a 1Kohm pot and slowly adjust it from high ohms to low, whilst keeping an eye on the RPM and the amp draw. Once you have found the "sweet spot" replace the pot with a fixed resistor of the same value.

The purpose of the bulb is to "servo" the SSG to keep it in tune as the impedance of the battery changes through the charge cycle.

Always tune the SSG with a fully charged primary battery and a fully charged secondary battery.


John K.

[ZeropointEnergy]

Update

@ zeropoint
What is your setup? How are the batteries turning out?

I have 80 ah and 100 ah, both 12 volts, one is badly sulfated and another is weak in one cell. 80 ah is connected to the radiant charger since yesterday, the voltage has risen from 10.00 to 10.59 volts during the time, but there is no change is the white stuff, coating the cells. All the cells are showing above 1 volt, so there is no shorted cell. how can i boost the process /speed up the process?

Hey,

Here is the latest SSG desulfating the trojan L16's

BM3 Spec SSG Charging Trojan 6V 420AH Battery .AVI - YouTube

Regards
Zero

[mbrownn]

Difficult to tell from where you took the measurements but 8 looks good to me.

You need to measure the output voltage while charging a battery to find the sweet spot. The highest output voltage is where it is at.

The idea of a bulb in the trigger circuit is to make use of the power that is triggering the transistor. A resistor wastes power as heat which is not much use. A bulb is a resistor that converts the waste into light, at least its a little useful.

[Shin]

Thanks for advice mbrownn!
The 'resistance required' is what im looking for. I read it's not max. speed of the rotor, it's where resonance occurs, right? At lower ampere draw. If you say put the bulb in if you know the required resistance, obviously i can't find the resonance point with the bulb...

My only idea was to plot the data over each other, to see the relationship between ampere draw, rpm, trigger voltage etc.
It's very interesting for me to analyse the behavior of my machine, but my eyes can't see the right resistance to go for.

I attach the graph and numbers i measured today.
For me the series 4 to 6 look very good (equals 400 to 600 ohm).
Could you or someone else elaborate where the 'sweet spot' is here?
Or what else i have to do to find it?
My initial thoughts seem to be wrong, that you can see the bulb flashing if resonance occurs.

Shin

My data graph:

[mbrownn]

Once you hve found the resistance required you replace it with a bulb of the same voltage and resistance. You will need to measure the voltage across the resistor.

[Shin]

I have my first Bedini SG up and running for a few days. I tryed to tune the system for the flashing bulb in the trigger wire. I used a 50mA and a 100 mA bulb as single, in series and parallel.
I only get a glimming of the bulb if poti is closed or nearly closed. Any further and light goes off, rotor stalls. In every combination of bulbs.
Then i tryed different base resistors. Difference is only the brightness of the bulb. Different coil gaps i tested, too.
So i'm quite stuck right now
Any ideas what i can try? I'm new to this Bedini experiments and maybe the problem is in my little understanding of the matter (or antimatter)...

Thank you!