Bedini SG

[redeagle]

Worlds most efficient ferris wheel anybody? Runs so slow you don't stop to change people. But you only get to go around once.

If i do build it as intended i already have a name picked out. "Bedini 8100" May even throw in an 8100 turn generator coil just for kicks.

In reality though I still have to locate axle, bearings, and a flange to mount the rotor to the axle.i'm looking at getting an axle that I can easily find pulleys for, just in case i want to use the torque for a piston pump or something.

Hopefully the grainger store won't be closed.

[wrtner]

A bigger wheel will give more torque. Much like putting a longer handle on a ratchet to loosen a tight nut. But you are sacrificing rpm to do it.

The number of magnets passing per second should be similar (all other
things being equal). The large wheel may run slowly.

[CosmicFarmer]

Of course. The skate wheel Bedini's run at blinding speeds and the larger wheels run slower ( but more mass! ) . The magnet wheel is a resonant attachment, like a switch and an indicator, but less of a electric motor with torque and acceleration. A larger wheel would have much less stress on the bearings because it goes slower, but it would be heavier to carry around if you had to move (trust me), and a larger wheel would be harder to "get right" because lets say you use 20 magnets, thats 20 spaces that have to be identical, where a skate wheel Bedini would have 4 or so, and eyeballing it could be enough.

[Sephiroth]

Rick's new website and photos of the 10 coiler kit which is now available.

Truth In Heart CREDIT CARD ORDERING CENTER

[Aprentice]

less than a novice.

Good day to all.
I really enjoy reading this forum. And i'd like to thank everyone for the great knowledge that is being passed on here. Can't say i've read every post yet.. But I will get to it.

I'm putting together my first bedini replica. I'm not at all an electrician.
Not joking about the electrician part.
but I fell in love with the idea of the Bedini ssg motor.

So I've put one together. For the moment it has 4 coils, two that are bi wound coils and two that are single wound coils.
One of the bi wound coils has two slave coils that tie into the same transistor.

The motor runs at around 300 rpm +/- . I can run it faster (I've had it up to around 600rpm) but it doesn't seem to help, only runs down the battery faster.
I have 1 7.5aH battery that I use for running. And three 600aH batteries that I charge.
The 7.5aH battery will charge to 13.8-14+ voltage, the 600aH batteries I haven't been able to get over 12.5 volts.
The solo bi wound coil pulls 130 milliamps (haven't tested yet what it gives on the other end.), the bi wound coil with two slaves pulls 135 milliamps, and puts out 70-75 milliamps. I haven't yet done the 1 ohmn test.
So anyway that's a little info on my system.
Here are a couple questions I have.
first does each coil need it's own circuit or is it fine the way I have it running where three coils run on the same circuit. Does it actually put out more potential if each coil has it's own circuit. I understand that not every coil needs a trigger coil.
Second question, How do you know when a battery has taken every thing it can and is charged.
and Third, does having more than one pulse coil on each coil actually give more potential current.
I'd like to get the system up to charging the 600 ah batteries a little faster and also higher than 12.5 volts.
I must say I am very impressed with the motors ability to salvage bad batteries as the three 600 ah batteries that I have all sat at 5 volts and would loose any charge you put in them in less than two hours know they hold 12.5 indefinitely.

[freeforall]

Hello, I am a new builder myself. I have a comment about the batteries that will not charge above 12.5 Do you have them connected in parellel across the output? Or do you charge 1 at a time? I have found that the batteries, if charged one at a time, will charge faster than if charged in parellel. That said, it has been my experience that these batteries will come to a plateau when being charged, say 12.45 volts, this is when I stop the charger and let the batteries sit for about an hour and then discharge them using the c20 rate. After it is are discharged, (not below 12.2), I stop the load test. I then wait for the battery to sit for about an hour, then start charging it again. If your motor is running correctly, and it doesn't look to be a bad setup, the batteries will start taking on more and more of a charge. After several charge and discharge iterations the battery will begin to increase its top charge plateau. I figure, and I am no expert, when they have recieved their top charge voltage when the batterey voltage tops out. I started with my batteries at 9 volts.. they desulfated, and held a charge at 12.25 volts. After 20 cycles as described above the batteries are now charging to 12.65. They now continue to climb. Hope this helps... I have 6 coils around a 6 magnet rotor, with the same configuration as you, All my coils are trifilar wound with one trigger for all. As for you other questions I'll have to think about cause I only know so much.

Sean

[freeforall]

Hello,

I'm not sure whos all out there listening.... I have found that a magnetic switch in a wand can give you feedback on the workings of the motor. It has shown me a few flaws in my motor as far a symmetry. I have more magnetism coming out between different sets of coils. I believe I am seeing the south spike coming out between the coils as my light connected to the magnetic swith has different intensities with different poisitioning around the motor. If I place the switch on the core of my coils I get different light intensities around the rotor. My charge batteries have been charging at an average of 150% C.O.P., sometimes more, sometimes less.. Im not saying Im getting more total energy out than in, becasuse my power source is still plugged into the wall.. I hope to generate some interest on this posting again as my brother and I have come up with some good stuff. I am the designer and my brother builds all this stuff.

Sean

Sean

[sucahyo]

Mechanically triggered SG from harddisk

Since I have a couple of broken harddisk laying around I had plan to make a bedini school girl with mechanical switch. Just build it and run it today and....

Work at 60 RPM .

Only on repulsion mode though. Can not make it sustain using attraction mode.

Magnet are taken from two identical harddisk. The rotating part is the disc. The coil is harddisk head coil. Other component: NPN transistor, diode and 12V battery.

NPN transistor is triggered by mechanical means via 100 ohm on the base. No spark, it rotate . Timing is done via sticky tape lol.

Maybe I need to add weight...

[sucahyo]

Turn out I need use both repulse and attract trigger for my Bedini SG. I can not add too much weight (no space). Still turn slow and jerky.

YouTube - Mechanically triggered Bedini SG with harddisk component

[Aaron]

John Bedini Group Comments

http://www.energeticforum.com/17709-post433.html

For anyone who has not been involved with the Bedini SG group that was recently closed, I compiled the messages from John Bedini as he was posting them. I only have this from The end of Feb until a few days ago and it has a lot of valuable information that he has never really discussed openly before.

This link is the PDF: John Bedini SG yahoo group comments , it is 91 pages

It might take a few hours to go through this, but if you want to learn about the SG, it is best to hear straight from John.

I have re-enabled this document since it rightfully belongs in the public
domain as it ALREADY is in the public domain since every message is from
the Bedini SG yahoo group.

John Bedini SG here it is, 91 pages pdf.

I removed this document quickly after accusations came up that I copied
the posts from a private group, which actually never happened. Any
messages that were originally in a private group and were placed into this
document is because John placed them into the public Bedini SG group
himself. Therefore, I took them from the public group and placed it into
this document.

There is a lot of good information in this document that I would recommend
that anyone read this document that is interested in the SG.

[sagemillion]

24vdc

thanks, blackchisel97 for the wake up call, Its clear there is no turn key path to a system that truly works via a plans and kit approach. I spent $47 for the platinum package under the assumption I was receiving plans to build a system that will run my home. clearly the amount of information therein is worth the money, I waste more than that in any experiment I do, but I do feel I was lead to believe I was receiving something else. after reading your post, I now understand the years of experimenting,the cost and so on. he went through to get here, I also was led to believe this was all about changing the world. all things in this world are commerce and nothing more. I am studying sovereignty, I have learned one thing about the concept, commerce,commerce, that is the name of the game,big fish eat little fish, I propose we teach little fish to eat big fish. with that said, here is my base line. I am building a boat in my front yard. I need to build a 24VDC charging system,is it possible for some folks herein to work on said system without the cost loss, to arrive at a print for a 24vsc/SG that every one could benifit from

[Slinky]

in need of help

Firstly, huge thanks to everyone who has contributed to this and the other schoolgirl threads. I have really enjoyed reading the developments.
I was hoping I would have a working model by the time I ran out of bedini stuff to read and watch but alas, failure upon failure for an embarrassingly long time.
So what is the longest ot took for anyone to get an ssg working?

It was kinda funny at first and I just took it on the chin in the name of learning, now i'm just super frustrated, all of my growing confidence in electronics has been shattered.
I tried the imhotep fan also, many, many times but no config of winding and stator would do it for me and no one seems to have documented winding in relation to stator configuration in a clear way, I would try if I understood and could replicate.



This is roundabout my 5th effort and I have some larger ferrite magnets and bmx wheel and plastic glue on its way for one last ditch effort as near as I can to the tried and tested spec of magnets and coils.

The rest of the pics are here, just so I don't spam this thread with a ton crappy pics.
Picasa Web Albums - 10121820862114308... - SSG

57.3 ohm resistor
1.5k ohm 50w pot
diodes are 1n4007 and 1n4001
Magnets are 6.5mm x 4.5mm x 11mm triple stacked

Coil is 300 turns bifiliar 20 and 26 swg, north at the top when positive at end of wrap and negative at the start (inside)

Pair of 6v 1.2ah batteries for primary and secondary, primary measure 12.5v, charge battery pair is 6.7

I get a swift neon flash when connecting leads on and off here and there, wheel just spin freely for about 30 seconds til stop. I thought borrowing a scope to see what was going on would help but I think all i get is 0.2v interfered sine wave of the collector when I spin the wheel.
I wish I had enough action going on to worry about burning transistors, once would be kinda re-assuring that I had a coil collapse

Cheers again, this and a couple other threads are the only thing that kept my interest throughout the fails
Any help is most appreciated, I got a happy dance pent up for far too long

[Ted Ewert]

@ Slinky,
Your build looks pretty decent. The biggest problem I see is the gap between your coil and rotor is way too big. It should be as small as you can get without touching.
I would also get rid of the core protrusion. Make the core as flush with the coil as you can. This will induce much more current into your trigger coil, which will help in turning on your transistor.
You might also want to anchor the coil down. Besides poor performance, it could flop around and bounce up into the rotor.
Don't worry about which way you wound your coil either. Try it with one polarity, and if that doesn't work, switch the wires. Which ever way pushes the magnets away is the right way.
Try these things and see how it works.

Ted

[Joit]

Well, not sure about the Gap, Ted.
I did change the Distance sometimes a bit, and it did run better when it was not to close.
Its somehow strange at this Motor, but the Impuls comes from the Batterie,
and with the right Gap i could get higher RPM and lower drain from the Source.
I guess, its maybe different for each Build, and you should measure all time,
wich one works better, in- and output.

[Ted Ewert]

Well, not sure about the Gap, Ted.
I did change the Distance sometimes a bit, and it did run better when it was not to close.
Its somehow strange at this Motor, but the Impuls comes from the Batterie,
and with the right Gap i could get higher RPM and lower drain from the Source.
I guess, its maybe different for each Build, and you should measure all time,
wich one works better, in- and output.

That's a different situation. Slinky was wondering why his rig didn't work. I was saying that with a gap as big as his, there wouldn't be enough signal induced by the magnets passing the coil to drive his transistor.
BTW, top speed of a motor has nothing to do with the efficiency of the motor. I realize the SG isn't used as a motor, but the principal still applies. Speed has to do with back EMF induced into the stator coil by the passing magnet. This would decrease with a wider gap and consequently the speed would increase.
This is also why an increase in voltage increases the speed. The rotor has to travel faster in order to generate enough BEMF to equal the voltage level in the stator.