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  • Thanks for the reply Ted.

    I closed the gap up to about 2.5mm and have loads more pull in the magnets to the core but no change elsewhere.

    The layout is based on Daftman's layout here:
    YouTube - theDaftman's Channel

    I left the neon connected to annode of the 1n4007 like the SSG patent but Daftman has it to the cathode. Is there any difference here?

    Also when wiring up the coil to the circuit on the board, he clearly states start and end of the windings. Would I be right in assuming the start is the inside of the coil and the end is the outside - clockwise winding if looked down upon - generates a north magnetic field out the top when battery negative is to the start of winding and battery positive is to the end of the winding?

    If so then how is the wheels north magnet attracted to the north of the coil if opposites attract? Is because there is no north until the magnet induces a charge?

    The step by step breakdown by shamus and seph earlier in this thread was really helpful for my understanding, however i'm still unsure when my coil should be energized in relation to the magnet and what polarity. Anyone got a link for a detailed flow breakdown, does the radiant come after the collapse or is the collapse considered the radiant?

    I long for a h wave

    Comment


    • Originally posted by Slinky View Post
      Thanks for the reply Ted.

      I closed the gap up to about 2.5mm and have loads more pull in the magnets to the core but no change elsewhere.

      The layout is based on Daftman's layout here:
      YouTube - theDaftman's Channel

      I left the neon connected to annode of the 1n4007 like the SSG patent but Daftman has it to the cathode. Is there any difference here?

      Also when wiring up the coil to the circuit on the board, he clearly states start and end of the windings. Would I be right in assuming the start is the inside of the coil and the end is the outside - clockwise winding if looked down upon - generates a north magnetic field out the top when battery negative is to the start of winding and battery positive is to the end of the winding?

      If so then how is the wheels north magnet attracted to the north of the coil if opposites attract? Is because there is no north until the magnet induces a charge?

      The step by step breakdown by shamus and seph earlier in this thread was really helpful for my understanding, however i'm still unsure when my coil should be energized in relation to the magnet and what polarity. Anyone got a link for a detailed flow breakdown, does the radiant come after the collapse or is the collapse considered the radiant?

      I long for a h wave
      The good people found here will help you get it going step by step. schematic is on the home page:
      Bedini_Monopole3 : Bedini_Monopole3
      your relentless quest for knowledge is admirable.

      Comment


      • Hey Minoly, i'm pretty sure my wiring is correct although the answers the the above would make me certain.
        What don't I know and what have I done wrong is my normal problem solving method
        This leaves the puny magnets and coil to be suspect, i'll get on spec and head down there when assembled if I got nowt spinning by then.

        I have had that schematic on my desktop for months trying to fill in the gaps, so elegant and simple but a huge rabbit hole at the same time. The theory is surprisingly absorbing.

        Will I get the blow by blow flow description at the monopole group Minoly?
        Electrons, current, ions, magnetic fluxes, scalar and radiant is a lot to comprehend on top of this gibberish called electronics.

        I had heard there were members hanging around and posting but refusing to make the tests and devices, is this true still?

        Comment


        • Its a good idea to join the yahoo groups for the bedini monopole, there is alot of support there.

          And sometimes its better to not know schoolyard electronics then to know it, because some of the things they teach you are wrong or should be investigated instead of accounted for and suppressed...

          I learn more on my own then when someone is teaching me.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Slinky View Post
            Hey Minoly, i'm pretty sure my wiring is correct although the answers the the above would make me certain.
            What don't I know and what have I done wrong is my normal problem solving method
            This leaves the puny magnets and coil to be suspect, i'll get on spec and head down there when assembled if I got nowt spinning by then.

            I have had that schematic on my desktop for months trying to fill in the gaps, so elegant and simple but a huge rabbit hole at the same time. The theory is surprisingly absorbing.

            Will I get the blow by blow flow description at the monopole group Minoly?
            Electrons, current, ions, magnetic fluxes, scalar and radiant is a lot to comprehend on top of this gibberish called electronics.

            I had heard there were members hanging around and posting but refusing to make the tests and devices, is this true still?
            Hey Slinky,
            your probably right on w/ the magnet size speculation. That, the number of turns/core size. Do you have close to 6 ohms on the power winding? I watched the daftman's vid - he sure takes the simple SSG ckt and makes it look elaborate and elegant. wish I had a link or a photo for you, you can build that entire ckt right on the transistor - no extra wires.

            there are enough good people there that if your efforts are in earnest, you will find the help you seek.
            I think the same can be said for many here as well. it just so happens there is a ton of data and support there on the monopole for this.

            Comment


            • Okay, just had a moment, lol

              Finishing a coffee before work, I gave my wheel a fast spin, kinda out of frustration and the neon sparked up crazy purple and white.

              Spun it again, really fast and boom, it kicks in!
              It span up crazy fast and neon was fierce, turning up the resistance only made it brighter so I turned it down to quench the neon. Do I have this wrong, I thought it was the reverse to this?

              Then it started to spin up, level out and then spin up again. I stopped it, grabbed my tacho and it got to over 2500rpm before I got scared about my build, tried to stop it. Then the magnets flew off the wheel. It sounded like it would have liked to go faster.

              I can't tell you how happy I am my wheel is broken, almost enough to bring tears to my eyes.

              Oh yeah, was drawing from 100ma to 600ma, missed any other measurements. I finally have data, hehe, feeling giddy.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Slinky View Post
                Okay, just had a moment, lol

                Finishing a coffee before work, I gave my wheel a fast spin, kinda out of frustration and the neon sparked up crazy purple and white.

                Spun it again, really fast and boom, it kicks in!
                It span up crazy fast and neon was fierce, turning up the resistance only made it brighter so I turned it down to quench the neon. Do I have this wrong, I thought it was the reverse to this?

                Then it started to spin up, level out and then spin up again. I stopped it, grabbed my tacho and it got to over 2500rpm before I got scared about my build, tried to stop it. Then the magnets flew off the wheel. It sounded like it would have liked to go faster.

                I can't tell you how happy I am my wheel is broken, almost enough to bring tears to my eyes.

                Oh yeah, was drawing from 100ma to 600ma, missed any other measurements. I finally have data, hehe, feeling giddy.


                That's fantastic news!

                So then, do you think the problem was that it wasn't spinning fast enough to trigger the base in your earlier attempts?
                That neon lighting up was soaking up the "bemf" to prevent your transistor from taking on that "bemf", did you have a charge battery connected?
                for better charging lower draw, you'll still want to check the ohms on the power coil.
                my 2 cents

                Comment




                • Absolutely, loads more pull after teds advice, I didn't cut off the excess core, just pushed through to the other side and got em close. ore powerful magnets or larger coil would probably have done the same perhaps

                  The first time just neon, second time it kept going. Had another spin just after I got home from work and it fell apart. Gonna build it a touch stronger and start doing some test and tinkering.

                  Totally stoked

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Slinky View Post


                    Absolutely, loads more pull after teds advice, I didn't cut off the excess core, just pushed through to the other side and got em close. ore powerful magnets or larger coil would probably have done the same perhaps

                    The first time just neon, second time it kept going. Had another spin just after I got home from work and it fell apart. Gonna build it a touch stronger and start doing some test and tinkering.

                    Totally stoked
                    Good stuff,
                    The protrusion of the core should be of no consequence; you need look no further than the Bedini 10-coil kit to reach that conclusion. Although, testing for one's self is always best. The type of material you are using for the core may be adding to the passing magnets frustration of getting away, however? So many small seemingly minor things can through this off. Once one grasps the basic concept, however, one can make it spin w/ an ice pick and some telephone wire LOL. Glad you got it going after 5 builds, I may have given up myself.

                    Comment


                    • Rebuilt/glued the wheel and magnets up and got a good couple of hours tinkering before implosion. My tacho said just over 24,000 rpm but counts 4 magnets each rev so it peaked at over 6000rpm. Seems to have about 3 or 4 plateaus in speed before topping out.

                      Coil trigger wire reads 2.8ohm
                      power wire reads 5.0 ohm

                      If I get the core the same distance away from the wheel but have it protruding it was harder to start than pushed into the coil. It's a small difference but noticeable, this would agree with Ted's previous comment but would probably be hard to notice on a large 1000turn coil.

                      I couldn't reproduce this mornings fierce purple and white neon flaring up whatever I tried, perhaps leaving it primed but not spinning last night had some effect I know the neon is for safety and a tuned system doesn't need it but this was a very different effect to the neon glowing at high resistance.
                      I tried to show a friend who popped over without success and felt like a fisherman exaggerating how big his catch was.
                      Anyone know what I mean? I badly want to reproduce it and grab some macro shots.

                      Anyway, I got it self resonating from 9v dc adapter with the pot up full, spikes just over 100v on the scope and giving some small lead acid batts some love. Duty cycle is way up at around 40hertz and amp draw down to 180ma.

                      One question about the charging voltages on a pair of 6v lead acid in series -

                      The safe zone for charging and discharging has already been discussed for a 12v battery but is it really ok for my charging batts to read above 21v?
                      They say 11-11.2 when I take em off and let sit for a 5 mins, is it safe to leave em to charge overnight?
                      Or should I stick like 10 in a bank and charge the lot to be safer?
                      I guess that was 3 q's

                      Minoly, if I understood correct and your not spinning yet, I suggest the daftman bedini layout. My only problem it seems was the tiny magnets and joke of a coil that gave me a tiny 2mm zone of working coil distance, even then it needs a fast spin to start. Add a bike wheel with big ceramics would negate such fine tolerances.

                      Anyway, don't worry, I won't post all my newb data, just nice to have some.


                      Thanks for the inspiration everyone. Much respect
                      Last edited by Slinky; 06-16-2010, 01:56 AM. Reason: horrible typing and coil ohm readings

                      Comment


                      • Another Q

                        When self resonating with a decent battery charging, the neon was not on, with a bad one or more poor batts charging it comes on partially and burns all black on the battery side.

                        Any way of not scorching this bulb and is this resistance in the batteries manifesting in the bulb?

                        Comment


                        • Kevin , I wonder if I should go to the car (junk yard)donīt know the english name , and buy some old batteries.
                          Many of those batteries are in ok shape , and probably will be conditioned faster - just a thought
                          /Peter

                          Originally posted by Kevin View Post
                          Most of my batteries are generic Walmart deep cycle and/or Marine batteries. I do have a couple car batteries that "died" and were discarded because they would not take a charge from a traditional battery charger.

                          After a couple dozen cycles on the SG they work like new!

                          Comment


                          • Anyone Selling

                            Hi,

                            I don't mean to take the easy way out but was wondering if anyone might have made an extra one to sell or even just extra strator parts. I bought the DIY but it looks so much more difficult than I had expected because I don't have all the tools to cut the rotors/disk. I'm willing to buy one from someone if they made extras or like making them.
                            I'm located in MN, USA.
                            I would truly appreciate your help. Thanks for reading this.
                            Have a awesome day.

                            Comment


                            • new rotor

                              Finally picked up my new rotor and almost cried I did explain to the machinist what I need and even drew 3D pic. The shaft he made is 1", huge nut to tighten it and long part without a flange to mount. Now I have to figure out how to modify that in simple way to be useful for my project. I'm tired of working with people around





                              And that was one of my drawings -


                              Vtech
                              Last edited by blackchisel97; 11-02-2010, 07:32 PM. Reason: additional text
                              'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'

                              General D.Eisenhower


                              http://www.nvtronics.org

                              Comment


                              • Great rotor.... looks awsome for a Bedini Window motor.....

                                You can probably drill out the ends of the shaft and thread the hole to whatever size and thread you like.... that would be easy.....

                                What are the materials it is made of?

                                Hopes and Dreams....

                                Tj

                                Comment

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