alright but what kind of LED and wire should i use? for the generator like copper, the magnet wire #23 and #26 or what?
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Originally posted by Kebob View Postalright but what kind of LED and wire should i use? for the generator like copper, the magnet wire #23 and #26 or what?
V'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
General D.Eisenhower
http://www.nvtronics.org
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Originally posted by Kebob View Postok and i would build the generator the same way as the Coil below it? also how would i connect the Led to the generaot coil? through soldering the led to the wire right?
V'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
General D.Eisenhower
http://www.nvtronics.org
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Originally posted by Kebob View Postwell are there alternatives to soldering cause i dont even have a gun
V'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
General D.Eisenhower
http://www.nvtronics.org
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so this led would work fine? Red 120 MCD intensity, T-1-3/4 (5mm) size LED. and tuen a plastic wire teeminal is that cone shaped thing that you twist wires together with right? if the led would work thats great. and also i was only going tobuild the magnet part on a standor spool without the circut and put the generator above since thats all i rally need. is it ok to build with out the circut or bottom coil just magnet part from bottom coil? also one last thing do i need to have a magnet north side faced up on the generator? thanks for all the help
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Originally posted by Kebob View Postso this led would work fine? Red 120 MCD intensity, T-1-3/4 (5mm) size LED. and tuen a plastic wire teeminal is that cone shaped thing that you twist wires together with right? if the led would work thats great. and also i was only going tobuild the magnet part on a standor spool without the circut and put the generator above since thats all i rally need. is it ok to build with out the circut or bottom coil just magnet part from bottom coil? also one last thing do i need to have a magnet north side faced up on the generator? thanks for all the help
You can substitute the diode with 1N4001 if the other isn't available. 1N4001 is small, black with gray stripe which is cathode - going to the base of transistor. You may get transistor in metal or black plastic case. Metal case will require small connector and screw with nut and washer to attach the wire to it. Metal case is the collector and legs are base and emitter. Will advise further when you get all parts.
VLast edited by blackchisel97; 01-14-2013, 10:56 PM.'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
General D.Eisenhower
http://www.nvtronics.org
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Originally posted by Kebob View Postso this led would work fine? Red 120 MCD intensity, T-1-3/4 (5mm) size LED. and tuen a plastic wire teeminal is that cone shaped thing that you twist wires together with right? if the led would work thats great. and also i was only going tobuild the magnet part on a standor spool without the circut and put the generator above since thats all i rally need. is it ok to build with out the circut or bottom coil just magnet part from bottom coil? also one last thing do i need to have a magnet north side faced up on the generator? thanks for all the help
you do need the circuit if you want the rotor to spin by itself. if you don't have the transistor turing on and off, the coil will not drive the rotor. You might be able to spin the rotor by hand and get the LED to make a small amount of light if you hold the coil close, but it will not keep spinning longer than it would normally free wheel. If what you are looking for is to have the rotor spinning itself and then use the generator coil pick up the EMF and use that to light an LED, you really need a circuit to drive the motor.
you can spin the rotor by hand, and get it to light the LED's, but you wont get much light (if any) from them because the rotor will not be spinning fast enough to make the lights do anything but dimly flash a little.
hope this answers your question
N8The absence of proof is not proof of absence
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Good Demonstration
Hi Kebob,
I found this youtube video a good place to start for the non electronic person.
YouTube - Bedini Motor ( Generator ) How To Build One
Woodski
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Dear Aaron and all,
I've followed the video's of Imhotep to build my own first Bedini motor made with an old computer fan. First time I think I got the coils connected wrong because the battery did not charge and I could not regulate the rpm of the fan with the potentiometer. Than I've swapped the connections to the coils and then it was running and I could hear the rpm speed up and down as I turned the potentiometer.
However....I guess I'm still doing something wrong because my "primary" battery (the one that drives the fan I guess) is running empty and my empty battery (the battery to be charged) stays empty as well.
Can someone please help me getting a little further? I would appreciate any help!
Thanks,
Richard
Originally posted by Aaron View PostVery Cool! Schematic looks good. Very nice bare bones ssg.
Those alkaline batts aren't the best but they can be charged at least a few times from my experience before having to throw them away. I'd recommend using some 6v and/or 12v gel cell batts...the black body type you can get at radio shack or elsewhere.
Those are good to learn with.
The hum you discovered is the circuit is self oscillating at high frequency. Most likely this is what is happening. If you have a scope on it, you will see something like this pic.
I played with my roller skate motor for months before doing anything else. Not even trying to charge anything with it. Will learn a lot more if you just get obsessed about the bare basic model first without doing anything else. In my opinion.
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first sg
lol, actually that circuit is a revision - the original was laid out where the
battery is and I laid it out so that the circuit looked exactly like the
schematic.
I didn't even know what a transistor was, I just knew there is input, output
and trigger and if connecting everything like in the schematic, it worked
on the first try thankfully. Was a very memorable day.Sincerely,
Aaron Murakami
Books & Videos https://emediapress.com
Conference http://energyscienceconference.com
RPX & MWO http://vril.io
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ok im begging to get this now i got most of the electrical components:
680 ohm resisters
1N4001 diode
5mm Red led
2N3055 transistor
5 ceramic magnets
80 ft of #22 magnet wire
180 ft of #26 magnet wire
i need to get a solder gun since it sounds like it will be easier that way. and also what type of wattage should i get for a soldering gun?
i need welding rods i believe this is for the thing the rotor spins on and for in between the coils?
also do i need a battery for this like a 9v battery?
preferably not since i may not have a lot of room for it.
thanks everyone for all the help
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Originally posted by Kebob View Postok im begging to get this now i got most of the electrical components:
680 ohm resisters
1N4001 diode
5mm Red led
2N3055 transistor
5 ceramic magnets
80 ft of #22 magnet wire
180 ft of #26 magnet wire
i need to get a solder gun since it sounds like it will be easier that way. and also what type of wattage should i get for a soldering gun?
i need welding rods i believe this is for the thing the rotor spins on and for in between the coils?
also do i need a battery for this like a 9v battery?
preferably not since i may not have a lot of room for it.
thanks everyone for all the help
few things. you will want an even number of magnets on your wheel, you can get by with 4, so that should be no problem. you will also want to make sure the magnets are spaced as evenly as possible around the rotor, and make sure they are fastened down really well (they can and will fly off if you don't have them on really well!)
I have a variable soldering pen that works very nicely, bought it from radio shack, you can use different heat settings for different applications.
The welding rods are to pack tightly into the core of your coil, that is what attracts the magnets and helps repel them (like an electromagnet) you don't need any for the rotor specifically, just fill the hole in the middle of the coil with them, pack as many as you can in there, and glue them in so they don't come out when the magnet goes by
you will need an input battery to run it, and 12V is better than 9V, though you can run one with a 9V, it's a bit trickier. they have 12V 5Ah and 7aH batteries at radio shack as well, or you can use any 12V battery you can get at an auto parts store.
hope all that makes sense and helps!!
N8The absence of proof is not proof of absence
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