Bedini SG

[harctan]

I have a question that's been bugging me for the last few days. One of the things that I find interesting about the sg motor is how the input power reduces when it is loaded, which is opposite to the conventional motor behaviour. Having watched Electric Motors Secrets I deducted that it was because there was no back-emf or at least much lower than usual. But if I use a reed switch to trigger the transistor instead of the trigger coil then that effect is lost and the input current increases under load. I would like to know what is the difference in these 2 ways of triggering that creates so different results.

[mbrownn]

I have a question that's been bugging me for the last few days. One of the things that I find interesting about the sg motor is how the input power reduces when it is loaded, which is opposite to the conventional motor behaviour. Having watched Electric Motors Secrets I deducted that it was because there was no back-emf or at least much lower than usual. But if I use a reed switch to trigger the transistor instead of the trigger coil then that effect is lost and the input current increases under load. I would like to know what is the difference in these 2 ways of triggering that creates so different results.

With the electronic trigger its about how many pulses per second. If there is 1 unitt of energy in each pulse and and it pulses once per second you are consuming just 1 unit, but if it pulses two times per second you are consuming two units. this is because you have a fixed pulse. With a reed switch the contact is made whenever the magnet is close so at a lower RPM the pulses are longer in duration and more power is consumed.

[harctan]

Does it have to do with duty cycle? The reed switch has a slower response and hence at lower speeds (like under load) it gives a higher duty cycle which translates to higher amp draw from the primary. But with the trigger coil the exact opposite happens meaning lower duty cycle and lower consumption. Does this make any sense? If so would it make a difference if I replaced the reed with a hall effect sensor? I'll check it out myself once the ones I ordered arrive.

[mbrownn]

Yes exactly, although a reed switch has a sharper cut off than a transistor provided they don't arc too much.

[lis_wang]

Disconnect the charging battery

@Kevin: I would strongly encourage you to do it an hour at a time if you have to, and please post progress reports! And yes, I've gotten bit by the high voltage coming off the power coil more than once!

Well, since I'm kinda stuck at the moment waiting for magnet wire to arrive before I can finish building the current machine, I thought I'd post a few thoughts on it--even though only one coil is present, it's got a diode hanging off the collector, so it counts in my opinion. The schematic below shows its current state.

Yes, curiosity got the better of me and I've tried charging 1.5V AA cells as part of a 6V battery. It seems to work somewhat, though I haven't done any rigorous testing. I did notice that the rotor slows down when there's a battery in the charge position. Interesting! I know that you probably won't get optimum results using these types of cells, but it seems to me that if the negentropy process that Tom and John talk about in the provisional patent application listed in Free Energy Generation is correct, then it should be possible to charge these kinds of cells as well. Just a thought.

Another interesting thing that I've seen (er, heard) with this machine is what I call 'the hum'. One time, before I soldered the components in place, I had to re-hookup the parts because they had wiggled loose. Once I had them connected back together and connected power (without a charging battery hooked up) I noticed a fairly loud hum coming out of the coil! The coil wasn't heating up and the neither was the transistor, but it pushed the magnets of the rotor out of the way so that the coil was in the middle of two magnets. Interesting! The hum stopped immediately as I disconnected the battery. After I connected power again, the hum started again. This time, I tried to see if there was anything coming off the diode but the meter reading was inconclusive. Strangest of all, when I connected a battery to the charging position the hum stopped as well. Curiouser and curiouser...

After I disconnected the charge battery the hum didn't come back, but it did come back a while later. It seems to be a bit capricious, this hum. I did notice that it was much easier to get the rotor spinning up to speed when the coil was humming versus when it wasn't. It seems these machines are full of surprises. And maybe I didn't notice it before, but it seems that there's also a faint hum in the coil of the first machine that I built as well.

A question comes to mind about this circuit. In the PPA in Free Energy Generation it's stressed that the radiant energy capture circuit has to be separated from the drive circuit, but in the circuit below, this is clearly not the case. Also, I have strong reason to believe that the circuit below works well (I can elaborate if necessary ), although some changes in the resistor are probably needed for optimum operation. It could be that I'm missing something obvious--after all, I'm still experimenting and learning this stuff first hand and trying to make sense of it all.

When you disconnected the charging battery, did the transistor burn out?

[Aliman]

Bedini SSG or Cap Pulser ?

Can anyone tell me does the Cap Pulser circuit Rejuvenate batteries like the SSG ?

[2SeeMore]

Filling the core of the spool

The beginners handbook says to fill the core of the spool with sections of 1/16" R45 welding rod. Here in Costa Rica, I've been unable to locate 1/16" rods. Locally they only carry 3/16" rods and I'm pretty sure they're not R45. Would they be a suitable substitute? If not, I noticed Aaron's recent video about Paul Babcock using steel shot as a core material. That's not available here as such, but small magnetic bicycle bearings are essentially the same thing and I can get them locally. Would those work?

Thanks,
Jonathan

[Aaron]

core material

The beginners handbook says to fill the core of the spool with sections of 1/16" R45 welding rod. Here in Costa Rica, I've been unable to locate 1/16" rods. Locally they only carry 3/16" rods and I'm pretty sure they're not R45. Would they be a suitable substitute? If not, I noticed Aaron's recent video about Paul Babcock using steel shot as a core material. That's not available here as such, but small magnetic bicycle bearings are essentially the same thing and I can get them locally. Would those work?

Thanks,
Jonathan

The 3/16 will work, but not as efficient because you will get more eddy current losses in the core. But it will still work so you can at least learn the nature of the machine.

The bicycle bearings will be bigger and they will probably retain magnetism more, so no, they are not essentially the same thing. If you get a few, you can test them. Get a few and put them on a neo magnet for a while. Remove them and see if the balls stick together. If they do, then no, they are not the same.

[2SeeMore]

Thanks Aaron.

The bicycle bearings I’ve found are 3/16” in diameter (.187”), which is just under 2x the diameter of the #7 buckshot (.100”).

Apart from the magnet test - which I’ll do tomorrow - given that the ball bearings and rods are the same diameter, would you recommend one over the other? (I’m assuming that being “shorter” and having less magnetizable mass, the bearings will keep a magnetic field for less time than the rods).

[Aaron]

bearings

Thanks Aaron.

The bicycle bearings I’ve found are 3/16” in diameter (.187”), which is just under 2x the diameter of the #7 buckshot (.100”).

Apart from the magnet test - which I’ll do tomorrow - given that the ball bearings and rods are the same diameter, would you recommend one over the other? (I’m assuming that being “shorter” and having less magnetizable mass, the bearings will keep a magnetic field for less time than the rods).

The bearings will discharge faster, the rods will probably have a bit stronger magnetic field. It's a trade off.

[2SeeMore]

I really appreciate this mini-course. I'm clearer about the role of the core filler.

Given that the longer rods create a stronger magnetic field than separate bearings, what about using 1/16” diameter iron wire (available here in rolls, as barbed wire or plastic coated metal fan cage wire)?

On the possible downside, unlike welding rods, the wire won’t have copper coating (R45). Does that coating speed up the discharge rate? If not, what advantage does it provide?

Wire’s also not going to be as straight, so I may not be able to get as strong of a magnetic field (the density of the core will drop if fewer pieces fit in due to bends).

Wire’s also quick to rust. Is rust a disadvantage? I can certainly eliminate it if I spray some enamel on the wire like you did with the bearings.

Another alternative I wanted to ask about is iron filings/ribbons. In one of Dr. Lindemann's videos he used iron filings (and epoxy) in the core - which I began saving after that. They're now rusted, but I have them. I can also get the thin (much less than 1/16”) spiral shavings that come off metal lathes. They could be more or less straightened out, cut to length and packed into the core.

Would any of these options be better than the bearings?

[2SeeMore]

I forgot to add this to my last message... If any of those are better options than the bearings, are they also better than the 3/16" welding rods?

[2SeeMore]

Magnet spacing

Hi Aaron,

You mention that the (1" wide) magnets should be spaced around the rim 3" apart. None of the rim circumferences are multiples of 4 though (a 20" rim for instance has a circumference of 62.83" - theoretically allowing for 15.71 1" wide magnets with 3" between their nearest borders), so I'll either have to space the magnets a little closer together (using 16 in this case) or a little further apart (if I went with 15). Any advice about this? A preference for one or the other?

Also, I got the sense that the size of the rim isn't so important and picked up a 17" rim as it seemed better balanced. But...most comments in the book mention larger rims. Should I use a larger one?

[Aaron]

magnet spacing

Hi Aaron,

You mention that the (1" wide) magnets should be spaced around the rim 3" apart. None of the rim circumferences are multiples of 4 though (a 20" rim for instance has a circumference of 62.83" - theoretically allowing for 15.71 1" wide magnets with 3" between their nearest borders), so I'll either have to space the magnets a little closer together (using 16 in this case) or a little further apart (if I went with 15). Any advice about this? A preference for one or the other?

Also, I got the sense that the size of the rim isn't so important and picked up a 17" rim as it seemed better balanced. But...most comments in the book mention larger rims. Should I use a larger one?

Just keep the spacing of the magnets similar - if you put them on the wheel with tape, you can get a feel for what spacing is idea for your setup and make space wider or narrower. You want the fastest speed for the least draw. Make sure to use an adjustable pot in series with a resistor at the base.

[2SeeMore]

R45 coated rods vs iron wire

Thanks.

Based on your comments, I think the answer to my other question is to go with the 1/16" iron wire in the core instead of the 3/16" ball bearings. I'll spray the wire with a little enamel beforehand to add a dielectric layer and slow down rust (it's humid here).

What's the advantage of the R45 welding rod coating (the copper) over regular 1/16" iron wire?