If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
It is frustrating not having anything to effectively measure the radiant.
I agree with you that spike isn't the only thing chargeing the battery, but it's all we can measure at the moment.
Cheers,
Steve.
I cant agree more, its why i try to isolate every component of the circuit to analyse the interaction with the charging rate but that take me ALOT of time because its real time, charging, discharging, charging ,etc for each test. At least the only thing im sure its the circuit work even if logicly it should not. I want to build a bigger one but if i dont understand what make more radiant energy that will be like using a 500lbs V6 motor and thinking if i double the size to 1000lbs it will make twice the output, maybe it will do but will use twice the amount of fuel to run so not realy more effective, just larger scale.
The 120 volt Neon Bulbs will work. They are usually in a little plastic case (red, green, or yellow). Just open up the plastic case. You will see the neon bulb connected to a SERIES RESISTOR. Just remove the resistor and like magic you have a neon bulb.
So, you can get a neon bulb easily. Next, you will notice that the little ones can't handle much current, so be careful. Remember, the neon bulb is a "safety relief valve" to protect the transistor in-case the circuit is mistakenly operated without a load to receive the inductive collapse.
Peter
Is it OK to keep the series resistor with the neon bulb ? My SSG is working fine with a 125 V neon bulb, I can see the resistor through the plastic case. If I remove the resistor, will it improve the functionning of the machine ?
Hi guys I would like to know what's the purpose of the pot?Should this increase speed when turning the pot to higher resistance?
Why is it that if I turn the pot the rotor slows down or even stops?Any help please?
Thanks
Hi guys I would like to know what's the purpose of the pot?Should this increase speed when turning the pot to higher resistance?
Why is it that if I turn the pot the rotor slows down or even stops?Any help please?
Thanks
Hi Guruji,
The pot is used to allow more or less current to flow through your transistor.think of it like a valve opening and closing to allow more or less water to flow through it.Hope this helps.
i have problems measuring amps so i wonder if its ok to take the input voltage from the powercoil (lets say 2,5 volts) and the resistance of the powercoil (6 ohms) and calculate with those figures (volts/ohms) to get 0,417 amps in that case - and is that what i´m drawing from the battery???
i have problems measuring amps so i wonder if its ok to take the input voltage from the powercoil (lets say 2,5 volts) and the resistance of the powercoil (6 ohms) and calculate with those figures (volts/ohms) to get 0,417 amps in that case - and is that what i´m drawing from the battery???
thanks!
robot
Hi Robot77,
At constant voltage yes but dont forget, the coil get pulsed so you need to average the Amp draw. Another thing you can do its using a 1 Ohm resistor with a Scope (Ground at 1 leg and the probe at the second leg of the resistor), its like making a Amp meter with your scope.With the V/R = I formula you can extract more precisely the Amp draw at each moment (by exemple each 0.1 ms) and make a Sum from the begining to the end of 1 cycle.
i have problems measuring amps so i wonder if its ok to take the input voltage from the powercoil (lets say 2,5 volts) and the resistance of the powercoil (6 ohms) and calculate with those figures (volts/ohms) to get 0,417 amps in that case - and is that what i´m drawing from the battery???
thanks!
robot
Just to add on what Eric said, the method you suggested (ie. knowing the resistance and the voltage to work out amps) can't be used fro two reasons. Firstly the coil is pulsed so yes, normally you could have worked out the average amp draw as long as you knew the duty cycle. However, you would also need to take into account the inductance of the coils which resist changes in current so even if you know the resistance of the wires, the amp draw will be alot lower because the impedance of the coil is alot higher when it is being pulsed than when it is supplied with steady DC.
Eric's suggestion of a 1 ohm resistor is good, though you could also use an analogue voltmeter across the one ohm resistor to get a rough idea of the amp draw if you don't have an ocsilloscope.
"Theory guides. Experiment decides."
“I do not think there is any thrill that can go through the human heart like that felt by the inventor as he sees some creation of the brain unfolding to success... Such emotions make a man forget food, sleep, friends, love, everything.”
Nikola Tesla
Just to add on what Eric said, the method you suggested (ie. knowing the resistance and the voltage to work out amps) can't be used fro two reasons. Firstly the coil is pulsed so yes, normally you could have worked out the average amp draw as long as you knew the duty cycle. However, you would also need to take into account the inductance of the coils which resist changes in current so even if you know the resistance of the wires, the amp draw will be alot lower because the impedance of the coil is alot higher when it is being pulsed than when it is supplied with steady DC.
Eric's suggestion of a 1 ohm resistor is good, though you could also use an analogue voltmeter across the one ohm resistor to get a rough idea of the amp draw if you don't have an ocsilloscope.
thanks guys...
i´ll try the one ohm method, or to get my multimeter running correct... to be honest, don´t know enough bout impedance and stuff and no oscilloscope in sight
I'm working about a Hybrid Bedini-Adams, and my 2n3055 brand germany is fried.... Zeners really can help to protect C-E transistor? I was thinking put 4 neons in paralel.
Your time is limited, so don't waste it living someone else's life. Don't be trapped by dogma — which is living with the results of other people's thinking. Don't let the noise of others' opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary.
I'm working about a Hybrid Bedini-Adams, and my 2n3055 brand germany is fried.... Zeners really can help to protect C-E transistor? I was thinking put 4 neons in paralel.
Hi Patmac
I've found that neons only protect at low power levels. Try transient voltage suppression diodes (TVS diodes). They come in a variety of 'trip' or 'strike' voltages, so they can be connected in series to protect the transistor C/E junction up to a safe voltage below the manufacturers stated maximum VCE.
I've found that neons only protect at low power levels. Try transient voltage suppression diodes (TVS diodes). They come in a variety of 'trip' or 'strike' voltages, so they can be connected in series to protect the transistor C/E junction up to a safe voltage below the manufacturers stated maximum VCE.
Hoppy
Hi,
Could you not do the same with the neons, connect them in series. I find when I run my set up on 12 Volts input I can unhook the output and no damage is done, but when running on 24 Volts input, I can only unhook the output for a few seconds before one of the transistors blows. (I use MJL21194 transistors.)
Could you not do the same with the neons, connect them in series. I find when I run my set up on 12 Volts input I can unhook the output and no damage is done, but when running on 24 Volts input, I can only unhook the output for a few seconds before one of the transistors blows. (I use MJL21194 transistors.)
Cheers,
Steve.
Hi
Neons can be connected in series but this will not make them any more effective for protecting transistors when switching at at high power levels. Running at 24V is running at a higher power level than when running at 12V, which is why your transistor blows quicker.
shouldn't be a problem the wire guage doesn't have to be exact for the motor to operate. The only problem is that the coil will have a higher resistance and so may be slightly less efficient than a coil using a lower guage. But for your first model I wouldn't worry about that too much Good luck with your build!
"Theory guides. Experiment decides."
“I do not think there is any thrill that can go through the human heart like that felt by the inventor as he sees some creation of the brain unfolding to success... Such emotions make a man forget food, sleep, friends, love, everything.”
Nikola Tesla
Comment