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Was the blinking led how fast u are dumping the cap?
I just got a pulsing cap figuured out and somewhat working.
I am piggy backing a coil off my solid state but not dumping into
a battery yet just lighting a 12v light.
Have to read up some more for the ideal voltage and cap size to
dump back into the battery.
Was the blinking led how fast u are dumping the cap? Yes, there is LED in series with opto input.
I just got a pulsing cap figured out and somewhat working.
I am piggy backing a coil off my solid state but not dumping into
a battery yet just lighting a 12v light.
Have to read up some more for the ideal voltage and cap size to
dump back into the battery.
ww
Thanks wwdotme, you have to experiment a bit with cap size. I found 4 MF DC caps good for solid state but used fast photocap (80uF 330V from disposable camera) working better with rotor version. My tuning procedure was: tune oscillator first to the lowest IN current and highest speed. I got 331 rpm. My wheel has 7 double stack 2"x1x0.375" magnets so, my coil is triggered 2317 pulses per minute/ 38.6 p.p.second. Current input is 0.49A. Wheel is poor despite bearings being degreased and treated with couple drops of synthetic oil. Those bearings are bad even when new. You can run this and tune, charging battery of the bridge. Now, when you have your SG tuned, you want not every pulse but collect a few of them and than dump quickly into the battery. You'll have h. energy spike. You can use mechanical switch, dumping once per revolution. You have to adjust your switch to dump in the right moment. Measure 10 degree from center of a magnet (after passing over the core) this is the moment when cap should be dumped. In this moment oscillator isn't powered.
With electronic pulser you'll need to find a cap which will charge and discharge fast. Small caps will do, but will not store enough energy. Dumped pulse isn't going to be strong enough to break and shake off sulfur from battery plates. You'll be getting illusion of voltage rising fast but no increased battery capacity. Too big capacitor will only partially discharge and keep SCR on all the time. You'll still charge battery but only similar to charging off the bridge with cap. It's important to hook up analog voltmeter in parallel with cap and monitor voltage before being dumped. You'll see arrow swinging. Faster dumping rate = lower voltage. Slower dumping = higher voltage. Don't leave meters permanently connected to the output but you can check to see how much current goes to the battery. Don't aim for highest.
I hope my explanation isn't too complicated and it's correct. Just @ my first coffee cup
Vtech
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
I am weak in electronics area, learning alot here.
Is thier a certain voltage I want to dump from the cap into the battery?
I thought I read just a couple volts over your battery voltage.
Is this correct?
Hi wwdotme, couple volts should be enough to charge good battery (you may notice higher output current too), but when you deal with sulfated one, perhaps 20 -25V should be collected on the cap before discharging. You want sharp, strong pulse to knock sulfur off the plates. This is long process, don't expect overnight miracle especially when working with large batteries.
I just found use for spare two windings on my coil I hooked up another bridge and 2200uF cap to one of them and I'm charging another battery. I can also power large comp. fan with it. This has no effect on working circuit, even power draw remains the same. Now, I have one more winding to play with
Vtech
I apologize for floating off topic, this is a solid state thread not SG.
Last edited by blackchisel97; 11-05-2009, 05:14 PM.
Reason: additional info
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
I piggy backed a coil with welding rod core to my quadfiller ss bedini
with the core only going about half way into the ss coil (seems to be the
sweetspot for output).
The amps dropped 200mA on ss
and output on the pb coil is .299 Amps at 8.75 V.
lights a ge 194 bulb around half brightness.
But only works with a cap in parrell with the bulb.
with out the cap the ss will not oscilate.
I can pulse it 3 to 4 times a sec around 20V into a battery
using my timer circuit.
A little more adjusting on the pickup coil core and output has gone up
10.5 v .33 A. readings taken while lighting a 12v bulb.
Oh I am running the pick up coil through a bridge rectifier.
Going to get another coil at work tonight for the other end of the ss coil.
Will have to make another core long enough to stick out both ends of teh
ss coil so I can slide a pick up coil on both ends the core.
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
I have been running my ss bedini for several weeks now and I have 2 junk bateries running 1A loads for close to 10 hours now.
But what I have noticed and don't know why, is that the amp draw slowly
climbs as the batteries charge.
When I first start a charge amps will be about 800mA and after a 24 hour
charge period Amps will be around 950 to 1000 mA. depending on the battery.
So what I'm asking is, what is happening here? goood? bad?
ww
Anyone thought about attaching a piezo to the top of your welding rods and below the triggering magnet? Have some hot glue to distribute the force and use the crystal's power back in the coil, no load, and it increases the field collapse? possibly allowing operation with lower voltages to obtain the same effect. Or add a load and draw more power off of existing circuit? Hit resonance and listen to the banshee.
Last edited by CosmicFarmer; 11-26-2009, 05:20 AM.
Reason: :)
I have been running my ss bedini for several weeks now and I have 2 junk bateries running 1A loads for close to 10 hours now.
But what I have noticed and don't know why, is that the amp draw slowly
climbs as the batteries charge.
When I first start a charge amps will be about 800mA and after a 24 hour
charge period Amps will be around 950 to 1000 mA. depending on the battery.
So what I'm asking is, what is happening here? goood? bad?
ww
Battery impedance is changing.
Vtech
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
When I first start a charge amps will be about 800mA and after a 24 hour charge period Amps will be around 950 to 1000 mA. depending on the battery.
I get different behavior. Either SLA or nicad or nimh, the output current always reduce when the battery start to take charge. Batteryuniversity mention that battery with more capacity will have more internal resistance.
Unless it is input current that you talking about.
I get different behavior. Either SLA or nicad or nimh, the output current always reduce when the battery start to take charge. Batteryuniversity mention that battery with more capacity will have more internal resistance.
Unless it is input current that you talking about.
I think he was talking about the input draw not the output. Pushing 1A to the battery would not be in line with J.Bedini "charging without current", me think.
Vtech
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'
Yes i was talking about input draw.
I have 4 starter batteries that I have been cycling.
desulfating them I can charge them with less amp draw
but this way in a 24 hour charge they are cold boiling ( I think
the term is) and improving with every charge. I am watching
and reading all that I can to learn how the energizer works.
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