Solid State Bedini

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi jetijs, nice setup. I've been using Bedini's solid state circuit, just without the resistor from base to emitter, to charge and rejuvenate batteries and I've wired it also as a joule thief at times and found that the joule thief tends to cause the transistor to get hot probably because it's not being turned on all the way and has a much more variable current input. What is interesting with the Bedini solid state circuit, is that the input current no matter what the load never exceeds a certain amount and the transistor stays very cool. As far as rejuvenating lead acid gels, has anyone had any luck with repairing shorted cells which is probably due to sulphation. Maybe It needs many cycles fully discharging battery each time to balance the cells repeatedly so that the dead ones get enough of the flyback pulses to be repaired, any thoughts appreciated.
peace love light
Tyson

[Jetijs]

Hi Tyson.
If I get an old battery I always check the condition of the lead plates, if they look something like this:
http://www.emuprim.lv/bildez/thumbs/...plates_006.jpg
You probably wont get good results in rejuvenating it as the plates are all curved and possibly broken down, even the insulators are almost gone. I wouldn't bother with such a battery. Anyway, I did try to get it back on line, it was 200Ah lead acid car battery and I got a decent capacity out of it, but one cell was just so damaged that the capacity could not be maintained over 10V.



Here you can clearly see how one cell fails during the load test
Jetijs

[theremart]

Hi folks, Hi jetijs, nice setup. I've been using Bedini's solid state circuit, just without the resistor from base to emitter, to charge and rejuvenate batteries and I've wired it also as a joule thief at times and found that the joule thief tends to cause the transistor to get hot probably because it's not being turned on all the way and has a much more variable current input. What is interesting with the Bedini solid state circuit, is that the input current no matter what the load never exceeds a certain amount and the transistor stays very cool. As far as rejuvenating lead acid gels, has anyone had any luck with repairing shorted cells which is probably due to sulphation. Maybe It needs many cycles fully discharging battery each time to balance the cells repeatedly so that the dead ones get enough of the flyback pulses to be repaired, any thoughts appreciated.
peace love light
Tyson

Dead short is normally part of a plate broken off or sulfation or corrosion has arced the plates. Light drop on cement can be done as a last resort.

I am using one that is at 10V as a 10V battery I know one of the plates is shorted but the rest work awesome as a 10V battery which runs one of my 3 amp motors for hours. Other than that I am saddened it did not recover.

Often corruption builds up inside the battery base, sometimes you can take a bucket and CAREFULLY dump the acid into the bucket except for the final part then dump it into another bucket, often you will see Tons of debri at the bottom dump this out into a container and mix with lime to neutralize the acid.

But in 20 % of the batteries I deal with, they are just junk thin plates poor material.

Erin has success just replacing the electrolite, but it is a gamble. I have found it better just to get a battery place that will let you have them for the core charge and keep swapping batteries with them until you find gold. Just factor in 20% of batteries are normally junk as abused etc.

[CosmicFarmer]

Music

I'm posting the notes and resistances my particular coil and circuit have.
I'm not sure many people can find a use for this as each coil and circuit are different however its nice to have redundancy if I loose my paper, and hopefully others can use it to base their findings on.

My bifilar coil that I used had 850 turns (if I remember correctly, was the only one I actually counted, but could be off) and am using vanilla SSG circuit with 100 ohm resistor. The readings are from the potentiometer.

Musical Note | Resistance in ohms

A = 8.51K
B = 5.87K
F = 6.95k
G = 7.53k
G#= 8.05k
A = 8.58K
A#= 9.16k
B = 9.65k

How I figured this out was I took my friend's fancy digital tuner and plugged in a standard guitar chord into it. Instead of having the other end go into a guitar, I had the end positioned next to my coil. The waves from the solid state traveling through the air would affect the sensitive end and produce frequency in the speaker and the tuner would know what note it is.

One note if you want to try this - Get gloves or a plastic potentiometer, because by touching the metal radio shack knob my body would shift the frequency about 1/8th of a note off. I would have to let go to find the exact spot.

I plan on making a solid state keyboard, basically just all the resistances that the coil can play and some nice switches to act as keys. Keep power applied and tap down the note or resistance I want.

Something strange gets me though. I can disconnect and reconnect power and the circuit will go into solid state again, but if I do that too much, something gets lost from the circuit and it wont go back into oscillation again until I move the magnet. Once the something is lost from the circuit, no amount of disconnects and reconnects can fix it. A magnet needs to be moved. Maybe the transistor gets saturated or something. To make this into a concert-able keyboard, there would have to be some fast or automatic way to restart oscillations, possibly something that takes a flick of a finger instead of a gross movement of the arm grabbing a magnet. Possibly a magnetic wheel spinning nearby could suffice.

I would imagine a large coil would have lower frequency ranges, and these notes are all pretty high.

If you have a guitar amp and a Bedini setup... mix the two! Take the chord and lasso spin it near the coil for a nice space sound, or use it like a drum stick for stacatto sounds. What I think would be neat is having a myriad of solid states going, all on a rotating wheel, and having the sensor chord stationary as the notes wheel past.

[Web000x]

One Ohm Test

I was so excited because I thought I had my SS energizer up and running because I saw my new deep-cycle batteries start charging in half the time that it took in the beginning, but I can't seem to get any COP>1. Then I started back to the basics of the circuit and realized that I never did the one ohm test on my setup. I did this and it was registered about 8 volts

Using the one ohm test on the output of a SS energizer, should you have your capacitor pulsing circuit attached? Or are you looking at the pure radiant spike across the one ohm resistor without the cap pulser?


Thanks,

Dave

[blackchisel97]

I was so excited because I thought I had my SS energizer up and running because I saw my new deep-cycle batteries start charging in half the time that it took in the beginning, but I can't seem to get any COP>1. Then I started back to the basics of the circuit and realized that I never did the one ohm test on my setup. I did this and it was registered about 8 volts

Using the one ohm test on the output of a SS energizer, should you have your capacitor pulsing circuit attached? Or are you looking at the pure radiant spike across the one ohm resistor without the cap pulser?


Thanks,

Dave

Hi Dave,
1 Ohm test is usually done with Simplified SG. However, I did that with Radiant Charger (before cap pulser) and Solid State in the same manner. In both cases I measured much less than 1V over 1 Ohm, 1W resistor. You can't tune your circuit with resistor instead of battery. This test is only to check if there is not too much current going out.
You won't see any decent COP unless your battery gets formatted (conditioned). SSG, SG, SS are not COP>1 machines. "Miracle" is happening in the battery with help of those energizers. If you'll try to condition new battery (make sure your circuit is tuned properly first) you may notice COP1 or slightly over after 5-6 cycles. With used/abused battery (not damaged but moderately sulfated) it may take 20 - 30 cycles (charging/rest/discharging <C20). It takes time. I have two batteries, which would charge up to 10 - 10.5V. One of them has 1 bad cell. Both were flushed several times and filtered electrolyte has been put back. They're "plugged" into Solid State charger for the past 3 weeks. One is reaching 13.5V other (with bad cell) approaching 11.90V - I maybe wasting time but this is pure experiment what can be done.

Vtech

Vtech

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I've been using the 'big boy variant' of John B.'s solid state circuit and it has been running very well. I've been able to bring back to 75% capacity or greater with the typical load capability of nimh, lead acid gell, nicad and at minimum, an average of 3 good recharges with alkaine non-rechargeable primary cells using the flyback off the diode charging them. The amp draw input shows about 11 milliamps using 13.8 volt dc supply and on the output of the 1 ohm diode, it shows .5 volts which is 250 milliamps on output for 221 milliwatts at the 1 ohm-10 watt resistor load. Now when charging a 3600mah nimh sub-c 6 cell battery pack for RC cars, the input current increases to 360 milliamps and it looks as though the total pack series resistance is between 100-200 milliohms though that may be higher than it should be since it needs more condition cycles, however it is handling high current loads again with almost typical capacity for an RC car doing doughnuts, 4 wheel drive on carpet, otherwise i use resistor loads to test for load time capacity at different C rates. It seems then that as the load resistance decreases the amp input rises and the output voltage decreases in charging load while amps in output load increases. If we assume likewise that the voltage drops about 3 times and current rises 3 times for the RC battery pack load, then we get close to the same output at around 225 milliwatts and input is roughly the same since the frequency of the oscillator lowered with the amp input increase. This solid state charger provides faster and faster charge times as batteries become more conditioned. Hope this helps anyone.
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

edit: this should say this instead of diode 'using 13.8 volt dc supply and on the output of the 1 ohm resistor'.

[theremart]

Fluff charge

I was so excited because I thought I had my SS energizer up and running because I saw my new deep-cycle batteries start charging in half the time that it took in the beginning, but I can't seem to get any COP>1. Then I started back to the basics of the circuit and realized that I never did the one ohm test on my setup. I did this and it was registered about 8 volts

Using the one ohm test on the output of a SS energizer, should you have your capacitor pulsing circuit attached? Or are you looking at the pure radiant spike across the one ohm resistor without the cap pulser?


Thanks,

Dave

Exactly as the others said, it takes time to condition a battery.

Also some other notes, you may have encountered "fluff " charge, you goto to apply a load to the battery after it reaches a wonderful number and zonk no amp hours out of a battery that reads fully charged.


I have found I my testing that I have to raise the voltage up about 2 volts before I consider a battery charged with solid state something like 15 - 16 V charge.


Another thing to consider is the size of the battery the larger the batteries the bigger the plates the more watts that will be needed to get it done. ( unless you have John Bedini right beside you if you look at the commercial chargers that do the bigger batteries look at the manuals, they pull amps of power to get the job done. If you move up to Golf cart sized batteries expect to use amps to get the job done.

This is why I love the Jetijs charger, it is scalable for about any size...

Cheers!

[geminitric]

Solid State Rodini (Bedini using Rodin Coil)

Hey folks, I have been experimenting with a bedini SSG circuit with a standard single-wire coil as the "A" coil and a Rodin Coil as the "B" coil. Yesterday I blew a transistor and had to switch to a Fairchild "E13009F" and when I switched on my circuit it went resonant and the charge on my cap bank went faster and higher than I've encountered yet. You can find my other experiments (using one-magnet-no-bearing, and cylinder mag/rotor) on YouTube, but with this latest configuration I had to join this thread.

My cap bank charges up to 250V DC in a few seconds, and switching to AC on my DMM it measures around 450VAC across the same connection.

I placed a 14W flourescent bulb across the cap charge lines (in parallel) and it lights to full brightness and brings the cap charge down to around 120V where it settles (while still maintaining light brightness). My power source is currently 40V DC, the effects continue down to around 36V and then below that the CFL doesn't stay lit. A small ferrite toroid fits in the inside circumference of the Rodin Coil and the standard coil rests on top of it. Having this there increases the "light-on cap settle-out voltage" a few volts (it would settle between 100/110 w/o the ferrite).

When I have the light on and the voltage across it measured at a constant 120VDC, I can disconnect the capacitors from the circuit and the light STAYS ON - it dims to about 3/4 brightness (rough eye-ball estimate) and the measured voltage drops to between 50VDC and 60VDC where it then stays constant.

Here is the YouTube link to my video of it - would appreciate your feedback!

YouTube - Rodini Solid State - bedini rodin coil combo

Cheers :-)

-michael

edit - AMP draw reading: 0.22 amps at power source input. Digital Multimeter used, so who knows how accurate that is...

[Guruji]

Solid state

Hi guys a guy told me to change a standard Bedini to solid state by changing the diode 1n4001 to 10K resistor;connect a 20k resistor between collector and base;replace pot from 5k to 10k.
That's all. I did not try this but I will.
Thanks

[digitz]

I would like to thank Jetijs for his very simple charging circuit, i made mine today, the only part that involves some work is to wind the coil.
I am using 2 x 2n3055 transistors, 3 winds of wire (25 meters, 0,6mm)
The circuit charges a battery now, at 11,9v from PSU it draws 1,45A of current.
The charged battery that need to be desuplhated a little jumped from 11v to 15v but now the charge stabilize at 13,75v.

Thanks to theremart also, i've been reading his experiments on this thread too, you and Jetijs made me to go build this !

edit: a pic of my circuit: http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2558/circuit1q.jpg

[juju]

posts deleted?

i have posted here and all the posts dont apear anymore...


anyone can explain me why this happen?

hugs

EDIT: sory i was confused, because there is another thread about solid state bedini

[theremart]

RE: Jetijs circuit

I would like to thank Jetijs for his very simple charging circuit, i made mine today, the only part that involves some work is to wind the coil.
I am using 2 x 2n3055 transistors, 3 winds of wire (25 meters, 0,6mm)
The circuit charges a battery now, at 11,9v from PSU it draws 1,45A of current.
The charged battery that need to be desuplhated a little jumped from 11v to 15v but now the charge stabilize at 13,75v.

Thanks to theremart also, i've been reading his experiments on this thread too, you and Jetijs made me to go build this !

edit: a pic of my circuit: http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2558/circuit1q.jpg

Yes the Jetijs circuit is very sweet. I have been hitting some large golf cart batteries with it at 24 V 3 amp on the front end and 18 V on the back end. The batteries seem to be starting to respond to this

I have just completed my solar setup with solar panels at 1.25 a watt on a nice sunny day I am getting average 3 - 10 amps of power at 25 V so after the front set of batteries are charged, I can then hit the back set hard with the Jetijs charger. so far I have only been using 5 transistors, but as soon as I get two banks charged think I will have two primary banks each with 5 transistors so doubling the power I am putting in now. So each bank of 5 will get 3 amps at 24 V .


I have used little 12 amp hour batteries with this, but I pull down the voltage to like 12V.

Congrates on your build, happy charging !

[theremart]

Ok....

I see. If there is no current then it can not be used to charge the battery or it may surface charge it. The suggestion was to attach earth ground to positive of the battery.






I think the purposes of 1 ohm resistor test is to avoid having too much current going to the battery. Agree that it would not be a problem if the circuit draw less than 1 amp.

I wish I could make the wheel version too some day .

------


It was not to after I saw your schematic again I understand, you are using 2 connections to ground each with a different rod. So you are attaching both the ground like John Bedini suggests and also one as has been recommended here on the forum. that would give the earth battery effect to the circuit. I will have to try that.