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yep that one. Its one big dead short at the moment.
Hi Dambit,
Are you saying that your getting a dead short with the schematic that Jetijs shows of Michael's circuit from above? I sure dont understand how that could be because as Jetijs pointed out it seems that there is no connection to ground.Are you using the same basic components?.I'm a little to say the least.
Yep, cos the drive neg is connected directly to the charging pos, and so is the charging neg to the drive pos. The circuit just gets bypassed. (the top picture not the small bottom one)
If anyone builds the circuit I posted, I suggest that low value resistor of about 0.1R is placed in each of the emitter to ground legs. This will help to even out the collector / emitter currents flowing in each power strand.
Hoppy
Hi Hoppy
In the circuit I have posted, wich is wrong as Jetijs noticed, if we connect the emitters to the ground through small value resistors, will it ressembles to your circuit or is it still wrong ? The drive battery positive connected directly to the charge battery negative, like in JB's circuit, is it OK ? And the drive battery negative connected to the charge battery positive through TVS1, unlike JB's circuit, is it OK too ? Is there something else wrong in my circuit ?
I'm sorry to hear that you fried your power supply
I hope we will get more information from Hoppy so we can build this circuit correctly.
I'm sorry for those who have build my circuit and fried some parts. I was so glad to post this circuit, my first computer assisted schematic, now I'm embarrassed and confused.
A wierd thing has happened to my circuit. I went away last weekend and unpluged everything before I left, just in case. When I got back I pluged it all back up and now nothing works. No one had fiddled with it and I can find nothing wrong with any of the components, but for some reason the transistors are just not switching. I have tried to trigger them manualy with magnets and still nothing. Everything appears normal and I even see the normal voltage rise on the scope when I hit the on switch. Very confussed
And yes, I have checked my cables and checked for continuity in the coils. All good.
I'm sorry to hear that you fried your power supply
I hope we will get more information from Hoppy so we can build this circuit correctly.
I'm sorry for those who have build my circuit and fried some parts. I was so glad to post this circuit, my first computer assisted schematic, now I'm embarrassed and confused.
Michel
Don't worry about it. I have plenty of spare power supplies. Just thought I report what happened, that's all.
I took 3 2n5038 transistors and hooked them up as you have shown, with 2 100 ohm 25W resistors. ( I wanted to be prepared ) as of now it is pulling only 300 ma and the target batteries is going up very quickly. The strange thing was I was unable to get it to trigger at 12V, but it started right away at 24V. It took me all week to figure out that 24V was what I needed to give it a jump start.
I am using the speaker coil as my primary winding, all the coils are very cool. I started out with only 1 100 ohm resistor but that heated up fairly fast so I tried two and the pitch went higher. What was another strange thing to me was I could only get it to start if I ran both of the speaker coils in series if I tried just one, it would not start.
In the circuit I have posted, wich is wrong as Jetijs noticed, if we connect the emitters to the ground through small value resistors, will it ressembles to your circuit or is it still wrong ? The drive battery positive connected directly to the charge battery negative, like in JB's circuit, is it OK ? And the drive battery negative connected to the charge battery positive through TVS1, unlike JB's circuit, is it OK too ? Is there something else wrong in my circuit ?
Thanks !
Michel
Hi Michel
The emitters should all be connected to ground and preferably through the very low value resistors to share current more evenly.
The output stage is correct and conforms to the basic Bedini SG configuration, that is output to charging battery positive. The TVS diode if correctly rated to have a 'strike' voltage above the highest possible charging battery voltage plus drive voltage will not short the supply battery or PSU. For example if the nominal voltage of the secondary (charge) battery is 24V, it should not go any higher than 31V (2 x 15.5V) when fully charged. If the supply (primary) battery is 12V, it should not rise above 15,5V. The total voltage of the batteries in series is therefore 46.5V. The TVS diode should be a few volts above this and I would give a good margin and go for a diode between 60V and 80V.
Remember that this diode is fitted to switch very fast in the event of the output becoming open circuit and preventing a damaging high voltage across the transistors. A low value power resistor can be placed in series with TVS diode to limit the fault current and resultant heat build up in the TVS diode.
I took 3 2n5038 transistors and hooked them up as you have shown, with 2 100 ohm 25W resistors. ( I wanted to be prepared ) as of now it is pulling only 300 ma and the target batteries is going up very quickly. The strange thing was I was unable to get it to trigger at 12V, but it started right away at 24V. It took me all week to figure out that 24V was what I needed to give it a jump start.
I am using the speaker coil as my primary winding, all the coils are very cool. I started out with only 1 100 ohm resistor but that heated up fairly fast so I tried two and the pitch went higher. What was another strange thing to me was I could only get it to start if I ran both of the speaker coils in series if I tried just one, it would not start.
Again THANK YOU for sharing this
Mart, no problems Glad to hear that it works good for you. My aircored coils also do not start by themselves at 12v, I have to put a ferrite rod in the coil and then tap this rod with a magnet to get it started. Now I am conditioning a dead sulfated battery that has its plates in tact, so far it works very well and each discharge cycle gets more and more amp hours out of the battery. But I noticed, that if I leave this charger on a battery for too long, after it is already full, the battery does get warm, but I have not noticed any ill effects from this heat. After that overcharge, I still got more out of the battery than in previous discharge.
Thanks,
Jetijs
It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.
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