I recently purchased and read the Thomas Bearden book "Free Energy Generation - 20 Bedini-Bearden years" with Circuits and Schematics, Second Edition 2006, and I am interested in setting up a line of dialog with others who have read this book and have built or are building the devices. Since radiant energy is a relatively new concept to me, I have a certain level of frustration with this publication in that whereas it provides much in the way of theory, it does not spend any time on the schematics or building the circuits. After winding my second coil ever (not pretty), I was able to get the radiant energy charger on page 46 operating. Sort of.
I originally tested it without the iron core (cut-off welding rods) in the trifilar coil and had some very pretty scope traces. When I later tried to add the 1/8" welding rods to the core, the unit seemed to quit working. I lost all my scope traces except for the output of the optical coupler which showed a reduced kind of square wave instead of the original complex waveform. Later I discovered that even adding one 1/8" welding rod section into the coil would shut it down when the section was moved 1" into the coil center. The waveform would skew in one direction, then disappear completely. After removing the rod, I have to disconnect, then reconnect the circuit to get the waveforms back again. It turns out that I am losing my trigger pulse on the 2n3055 when this happens. I have turned the 1k pot both ways. It works best with all resistance in the circuit.
I'm running it with an el-cheapo Walmart 12V lawn tractor battery and I have a non-working 12V motorcycle battery and non-working 12V lawn tractor battery being charged. For now, I have a battery tender attached to the 12V input battery. Both batteries being charged were at around 5-6V when I started. Without the iron core, the circuit seems to be charging the batteries satisfactorily. One came up to 12 - 13V and the other to around 9.5V, but so far (a few hours) they still discharge rapidly. They may really be trash, but I'll keep trying.
If anyone has any ideas about the iron core thing, I sure would appreciate it. I'm waiting for some more plexiglas to arrive so I can make a rotor for this device, but first I need to get it to work with an iron core.
I have since found that I am able to insert (4) 8mm x 140mm ferrite rods into the coil and it will still run. I have also been able to add 5 or 6 of the 1/8" welding rod sections around the ferrite. I cannot remove the ferrite and add any amount of welding rods, however, as it will still quit. I haven't cut the ferrite rods off to the coil length as I would rather not cut my ferrite unless I have to. Seems strange.
TIA for any help,
Carl
I originally tested it without the iron core (cut-off welding rods) in the trifilar coil and had some very pretty scope traces. When I later tried to add the 1/8" welding rods to the core, the unit seemed to quit working. I lost all my scope traces except for the output of the optical coupler which showed a reduced kind of square wave instead of the original complex waveform. Later I discovered that even adding one 1/8" welding rod section into the coil would shut it down when the section was moved 1" into the coil center. The waveform would skew in one direction, then disappear completely. After removing the rod, I have to disconnect, then reconnect the circuit to get the waveforms back again. It turns out that I am losing my trigger pulse on the 2n3055 when this happens. I have turned the 1k pot both ways. It works best with all resistance in the circuit.
I'm running it with an el-cheapo Walmart 12V lawn tractor battery and I have a non-working 12V motorcycle battery and non-working 12V lawn tractor battery being charged. For now, I have a battery tender attached to the 12V input battery. Both batteries being charged were at around 5-6V when I started. Without the iron core, the circuit seems to be charging the batteries satisfactorily. One came up to 12 - 13V and the other to around 9.5V, but so far (a few hours) they still discharge rapidly. They may really be trash, but I'll keep trying.
If anyone has any ideas about the iron core thing, I sure would appreciate it. I'm waiting for some more plexiglas to arrive so I can make a rotor for this device, but first I need to get it to work with an iron core.
I have since found that I am able to insert (4) 8mm x 140mm ferrite rods into the coil and it will still run. I have also been able to add 5 or 6 of the 1/8" welding rod sections around the ferrite. I cannot remove the ferrite and add any amount of welding rods, however, as it will still quit. I haven't cut the ferrite rods off to the coil length as I would rather not cut my ferrite unless I have to. Seems strange.
TIA for any help,
Carl
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