One magnet no bearing Bedini motor

[synchro]

Wire voltage & Faraday.

I was able to measure voltage comming from the ends of the magnet axel wire. It's bouncing around too much for me to get an accurate reading, But looks like around 40 microvolts. There could be higher amperage as in the Faraday generators. It produced even more voltage when I held one multi meter electrode to the rim of the spinning tube magnet and the other electrode to the copper wire, about 2 tenths of a volt. I'll look into this further, but it may generate power with just a copper electric leaf spring contact touching the edge of the magnet, and the other contact on one end of the copper axel wire. The magnet could probably slip into a copper tube to protect the magnet from contact wear.

Look at the axial frame reference in relation to a spinning copper tube sleeve around the spinning diametric tube. The field is stationary through the center of the spinning tube, just like Faraday's disk in plane with the axial magnets. It might be possible to nest a second tube around the magnet and sleeve, to act as a non touching inductor contact. A copper wire coil would work even better. I haven't tried this yet, but I bet it generates a Faraday high amperage current.

Update:

I am steadily chargeing a 35 volt 4700 micro farad capacitor with a shockty diode attached between the ends of the wire.

[twinbeard]

Updates

Hi All,

I have finally finished some reasonable looking renderings of the rotor housing design: FlowerPower shared rotor dc pulse motor/generator.

I don't think the model is precise enough to feed into anything automated, but the dimensions are pretty close. The sphere is 1/'8", and all else is to scale from that. The goal is to seal a thin film of ferrofluid inside the rotor recess around the rotor. Titanium is the proposed material. Opinions?

Also, I rebuilt the output transformer, so here is a video of that:
YouTube - Output transformer upgrade.

Cheers,
Twinbeard

[synchro]

Diametric Faraday .

I pealed out to the hardware store and returned with a 1" I.D. piece of copper pipe I just got through testing and I can report over ten times the voltage output, between the wire axel and the copper sleeve. I think this proves that my Faraday theory is correct.

My next step will be to wind an inductance coil around the copper sleeve for a non contact emf recovery grounded to the axel wire. Then, if the magnet can mag lev on the wire, and carry current by way of induction, perhaps the copper sleeve can also. This would be the wrong direction for output windings to be positioned, but in this case it's gathering power from the copper sleeve through inductance, and not generating a Lenz drag.

Update,

I am getting a steady .10 volt from the wire ends spinning the diametric magnet with the copper pipe sleeve around it. I know this current is accompanied by a large amonut of amperage. What would cause this to happen? I don't think I need an outer inductance path, because it's already using the inner one. This may be finished and ready to box! I think this may be yet another historic first.

I rebuilt it with new wire and got zero results. I went back and examined the old wire and noticed two bare wear areas that made contact with the magnet. Voila, the mystery resolved! I think a solid brass axel with metal bearings on each end would allow for two contacts at the axel bearings, with out an electrode on the copper sleeve. This is because there seems to be a polarization of the axel ends for some unknown reason.

I think a copper jacket over a no bearing spinner with ball bearings, maybe on tin foil with a top like lidmotors might make a pretty cool homopolor generator!
Also, I think the effect of the copper tube on the stationary part of the diametric field, would be the equivilant of the tube rotating against the face of a magnet. The tube is curving through the stationary field which is standing still on a line running through the cylinder side to side. The axel acts as a ground for the power generated in the copper sleeve, and the axel gains polarity.

Update:

I ran the 1" diametric tube and copper jacket spinner on a ball bearing, with a second ball bearing on the top. I need a Bedini solenoid coil for this. I generated one micro volt measured by holding one multi meter electrode to the copper jacket and the other to the ball bearing on top. All homopolar's usually generate a large amount of amperage along with the minscule amounts of voltage. I think attaching one end to the other might increase the output.

I just tried that and I got voltage touching the multi meter electrodes to both the upper and lower bearings, but it was jumping around a bit too much to get an accurate reading. I think it would spin inside the Spiral knot standing up, on a conductor plate with an overhead magnet and electrical contact. I may try this next. The magnet won't spin inside the Knot if the knot's lying flat. The magnet spins fine with the copper around it . It would probably help to increase the thickness of the sleeve.

[synchro]

Spiral Knot Non bearing Bedini.

I spun the 1" neo up in a dish, then transfered it to to the inside of the upright Spiral Knot whre it eploded in a burst of acceleration. This is the first time I got a non bearing spinner up inside the Knot. Watch out folks, this combination has limitless potential! I need to order some spheres, and see what kind of speed this can produce. "Lidmotor's Maggie" is spinning a sphere. I think the Spral Knot is powerful enough to levitate a spinning sphere.

[rave154]

Synchro,

have you, or can you, post details of the winding of the spiral knot coil?

this sounds interesting

[synchro]

Spiral coil.

@Rave154begin with

To start off, I use the Radio Shack 24 gauge 2 conductor 75 foot roll. This costs about $6.95. The Spiral Coil starts and ends in the same place. You may have to cut it to arrive there.

You have to wind the wire onto a stick, so you can lace the toroid core. After that choose a dimension, like a large coffee mug for a 2" I.D. toroid. Leave a little to begin with , then make three or four loops to start, then begin to spiral the wire to where it feels right. Don't worry too much about neatness. This produces four wires at the end as the speaker wire's bifilar.

Take a look at the size of the coil on the top in comparison to the objects in scale to get a general idea of the size. I had to cut about 10 or 20 feet off the skien because the hole began to grow too small. There's a close up of the coil too. You can see how the spiral looks under the tape. It's comming up and over at about a 45 degree angle. The turns are spread out more at the beginning. The brown speckeled magnet is 1" long.

[rave154]

Thanks synchro,

its late here and my brain is fried for tonight......definitely bedtime for meee

will look more closely tomorrow.

[synchro]

Homopolar output.

I spinned the 1" neo with the copper sleeve and a 1&1/2 inch non magnetic stainless steel hollow rod axel fit tight through the hole, right on the electrodes of the multi meter held in front of the face of a Bedini coil and got 3 micro volts. I think we can run them very nicely on springy electrodes, and generate homopolar current that effortlesly directly through the axel. I think if we added another sharp contact to the free spinning end of the Mendicio Mag Lev axel, like Skycollection's, the 2" neo with thick copper plug jacket, we'd see some high amperage at top end!

[jonnydavro]

@Synchro.Your coil and homopolar experiments are amazing I am going to give your keltic knot a go.I picked up a 75" roll of speaker wire from the local poundland £1 shop but it is stranded and you are using solid core.Have you tried stranded?It will be interesting to compare the two.
I will wind one up this weekend and let you know how it performs.Jonny

[synchro]

Wire

Is it bifilar? I never tried stranded, I think stranded is better for a.c. and soild better for d.c. Mine has four wires leading out.

[jonnydavro]

@Synchro.Yes it's bifilar, copper and silver coloured wires.I hooked it up to a Bedini circuit untouched on the spool and it will spin a cylinder.Worth a try don't you think?Also do you think coiled telephone cord could be used somehow?Jonny

[Jbignes5]

Is it bifilar? I never tried stranded, I think stranded is better for a.c. and soild better for d.c. Mine has four wires leading out.

I would think solid is better for outgoing and stranding is better for generation or incoming.

[synchro]

Wire

I'm behind any form of improvisation. "Furbo" is an Italian word for the kind of magic that results from inovative solutions. If the phone wire is "LITZ" wire, it should work the best.

[twinbeard]

I'm behind any form of improvisation. "Furbo" is an Italian word for the kind of magic that results from inovative solutions. If the phone wire is "LITZ" wire, it should work the best.

Raw ethernet cable would be better... its not straight litz, with all windings twisted together. It is 4 discrete twisted pairs. Cat5 is #24AWG solid core, while Cat6 is #23AWG solid core. 1000' spools can be had for under $50 for CAT5, and under $75 for CAT6. CAT6 also has a stiffer jacket usually, and an internal plastic separator to keep the pairs apart. It was developed for use in PoE(power over ethernet), so the extra isolation from the separator is useful to reduce induced noise on your 2 signal pairs. CAT5 would likely be the best choice for this application... the plastic separator can be a pain.

Cheers,
Twinbeard

[Jbignes5]

Raw ethernet cable would be better... its not straight litz, with all windings twisted together. It is 4 discrete twisted pairs. Cat5 is #24AWG solid core, while Cat6 is #23AWG solid core. 1000' spools can be had for under $50 for CAT5, and under $75 for CAT6. CAT6 also has a stiffer jacket usually, and an internal plastic separator to keep the pairs apart. It was developed for use in PoE(power over ethernet), so the extra isolation from the separator is useful to reduce induced noise on your 2 signal pairs. CAT5 would likely be the best choice for this application... the plastic separator can be a pain.

Cheers,
Twinbeard

Be careful with networking wires. I got a whole roll and it turned out to be magnetic... Like steel is. I thought it was copper and the guy who sold it to me said it was. Well it wasn't and it is magnetic. I haven't tried to wire any coils with it since my Rodin coil fiasco. Weird I have never seen wire that you could attach a magnet to without any power applied... Heh...

The multiple wires I was talking about is like monster cable for speakers with a huge bundle of wires clamped together by the end connectors. Radio Shack sells it or High end Audio shops for cars have it. The reason you want a lot of strands is that as a receiver it has many parallel conductors to receive more charges. With high frequencies it would not act like a whole copper conductor.