Bedini's Kromrey Converter

[Matthew Jones]

Fig 2 of the patent is where I think the "mistake" is shown, because the way Kromrey shows the iron pole pieces being attached to the magnets is wrong

No he uses a Yoke Magnet. It says this in the text. He adds iron the ends so make the round shape to couple the rotors shape.

From the patent....35 advantageously, a pair of oppositely disposed yoke-shaped magnets, of the permanent or the electrically energized type, whose extremities constitute the aforementioned pole pieces

These were common in sixties, Alnico. You can still get them today.

The extremities match the cores on the rotor in that they are laminated soft iron foil.

I don't think you can post RAR files. Just PDF and DOC or images.

I'll PM you my email look for the message.

Matt

[Dave Michael Rogers]

No he uses a Yoke Magnet. It says this in the text. He adds iron the ends so make the round shape to couple the rotors shape.


Matt

Hi Matt,

Can't disagree with you there, I only mentioned fig 2 as it was the only "mistake" I could find, but its so minor as you point out if yoke magnets used then what was the mistake.

The iron is important in order to guide the magnetics, but there maybe more.

Get three pieces of iron and a magnet.
Place a piece of iron on each face and note how strong the attraction is.
Now get the third piece of iron and attach it to the other two pieces of iron so that the magnetics are shorted out.

The attraction between the irons is much much stronger than the attraction between the magnet and the iron, even when shorted. Where does this extra attraction come from? The magnet isn't supplying all the magnetic attraction between the irons. I think the iron is drawing into the magnetic circuit environmental magnetic streams as well, causing the extra attraction.

Regards
Dave

PS. I just posted on the Tesla switch thread my design for a mechanical rotary switch to be attached to the Kromrey and driven from the prime mover.

[chasson321]

Just wondering?

last edit.....

[baroutologos]

IMo devices like this are dead-end.
Experiment yourself just to find out

[wrtner]

Has anyone tried taking an iron bar and bending it in a circle and making one cut to have two half circles? Then winding two separate coils one for each half. Mount the two halves in a circle with a small gap between the ends and the hook one of the coils to an a/c outlet. Would the resulting electro magnetic field simulate the rotation of a Kromrey rotor? Would you get anything off of the second coil?

Tim

You need to see what the toroid people are up to.

[chasson321]

toroid people

last edit....

[KenGrubaugh]

Basic Info please

Is there a common place, where everyone is getting the plexiglass and bearings etc from? Most of what I need can not be found at the local Lowes etc.

[Matthew Jones]

Acrylic Sheet

Brass or stainless Shaft is easy to get just google it.

Ceramic Bearings If you want them.

Other than that I would just google for suppliers

Good Luck
Matt

[Schpankme]

I'm curious, the KROMREY ELECTRIC GENERATOR never performed outside the norm of the 1980's, who told you it would be any different today?

- Schpankme

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[Matthew Jones]

I'm curious, the KROMREY ELECTRIC GENERATOR never performed outside the norm of the 1980's, who told you it would be any different today?

I'm not sure I follow you?

Matt

[baroutologos]

I'm curious, the KROMREY ELECTRIC GENERATOR never performed outside the norm of the 1980's, who told you it would be any different today?

I might add, it never performed actually.

[Matthew Jones]

Go Ahead baroutologos lay out all your findings for us. Some pictures of your machine and your testing information would be great.

Matt

[FrozenWaterLab]

Just my Idea on a shaft source, and a few other thoughts for the garage tinker.
A Submersible Pump has a sextaganal (sp? 6-sided) shaft (19.25" long x 1/2") in it that is non magnetic stainless. I'm trying to attach a Picture with a Bick lighter next to the shaft and Broach.
You will need a broach (10.5" long) to make a 6 sided hole in your 1" Iron slugs that may be machined for your coils and your slip-rings. After drilling with the appropriate smaller size, it is forced through with a press to incrementally shape the hole.
Also for those that want to make their own slip-ring set.
I intend to use a 2" or 3" copper pipe coupling. Fill it with slow set Epoxy (meticulously centered on greased shaft). Also one may wish to epoxy not on the shaft, and add a paper rolled around the coupling to extend above and below it to make a longer structure to provide filler between your upper and lower iron bars.
This assembly (Both bars with epoxy / slip-ring cylinder) could then be held in position on the shaft with only two double set screw collars. If made long enough it could be drilled with 1" holes then cut in the center of the holes to nest the rods in, tapered to avoid the coils if need be.
Then drill and shape with Broach.
Then chucked up in drill press I will cut with hack saw a gap (two cuts 1/4" apart) in the middle of the coupling to make the two rings. Cut only deep enuff to slice the copper then sever and peal off the narrow ring between."
A side hole, down through the epoxy (top to bottom), can be used to rout the off side coil wire's from upper coil set to lower coil set.
The other end of each coil set. may be soldiered to the edge of the respective slip-ring.
For a Brush setup the largest diameter Air-Arc cutting rod (Copper coated Carbon rod) may be cut in short segments (Aprox 2") and drilled in one end, (aprox. 1/4" deep) to epoxy in (With electrically conductive cement) a brass threaded bolt after cutting off head, for connection on one end.
This bolt should be long enough for a coil spring to be slipped over to provide tension and have the threads protrude from your holder 1/2" to be able to attach an wiring connection ring to it (on the end farthest from the brush) with two brass nuts. (after insertion in the holder)
The brushes (2) would be held in a non conductive block of plastic drilled large enough to allow brush movement and deep enough to accept the brush and spring (aprox. 2"- 2 1/4" as you will want about 1/4" of the brush exposed) BUT NOT all the way through, stop with about a 1/4" of the block remaining. So the block should be about 2 3/4" long 1" thick. You then drill a smaller hole a bit bigger then the threaded rod. This allows about a 1/2" for the spring under light compression. I figure about 2" of threaded rod if the rod is into the carbon about a 1/4".
If you figure your separation correctly you may position both brushes in the same holder. Then if you use a large enough chunk of plastic you can drill side holes to mount it in the correct position, between the upper and lower end plates, so your brushes ride your rings. The brush material rod I have is about 1/2" in diameter.
The spring shouldn't need to be very strong but maybe an inch or less long.
Hope this helps. Let me know what you think?
FrznWtr
A few more thoughts and some questions on basic building technics.

Do you think standard motor 1" shaft is the correct Iron for the rotating slugs?
What Magnets might be best? I was thinking of building my unit to be able to use both ceramic mags like in the school girl, and neos. That way I could try/test one then replace with the other to do a comparison with everything else the same.
Also strong Neo's on ends with a bar of iron between. Sure would reduce the expense.
I plan on using non-mag stainless threaded rod to compress the top and bottom plates with n-m ss tubing for spacers.
How about aluminum channels to hold the magnet stacks in place?
Maybe recessed 1/4" into the plates.
I'm thinking a treadmill DC motor like for a windmill? The ones I have are about, 2.75 HP at 120 V - 5950 RPM, 2 HP at 75V - at a slower rpm (But I'm not sure what), 1HP at about 30-35 V - slower Etc. Etc. whats maby the best speed??? Running on a Rectified Variac might be the best way to figure, huh what do you think?? I got one.
Any thoughts on that would be appreciated.
I would think a small Cone type thrust Bering on the bottom would be a good idea. Support all that shaft weight right?
Anyone ever put a scope on one of these? Whats the wave form?
I understand the greater the load the less the drive current draw. What would make a good variable load?
Can the unit be used to drive another motor to drive another and so on Bigger and bigger or must the produced current be used to charge a Battery? That is what it sounded like to me on the CD.
Just trying to learn what might help. If theirs any thing else out their, Yaknow.
FrznWtr

[FrozenWaterLab]

Why spin the Coils

OK I've got 16 2"x2"x1" N50 mags with a 1/4" hole in the center of the 2x2 face.
I'm going to mount these on a shaft and spin them between two or three sets of stationary coils. Wound full length on 1" shaft pieces held between two Plexiglas plates. Bearings mounted in Plex-plates. 4 mags per side on each end of shaft.
No slip-rings or brushes. 2 or 3 times the potential output.
Less magnet expense. No Coil spin stress.

What do you think - anybody out there?

FrznWtr

[baroutologos]

Some Theoretical Possibilities

I was looking my experiment photos based on magnetic flux alteration principle and i was wandering...

We know that magnetism behaves more or less as electrism. It permeats some materials like a current whereas others do not. All those are known.

We can say that by having a magnet equals as having a battery. With the difference despite the huge philology around the subject it seems there is not any known plan at utilizing that free magnetic energy coming out from magnet.
...

* Electricity when static flowing can produce work in a bulb (resistance). Magnetism cannot perform work in magnetic resistant materials.
* Electricity can produce work when alternating in strength or by manipulation. Either in transformers or motors. Magnetism can produce work in the same manner.

The great difference between electricity and magnetism is the switching process.

* Electricity can be switched with ease by opening/closing a small switch even though that switch carries enormous power.
* Magnetism on the other hand interferes with the switch and considerable ergo is being consumed at the switching process rendering effectively any process under unity.

We have invented also for electricity semiconductors. Materials that their conducting/non conducting status can be altered by a small stimulus.
For magnetism there is not any.

Ideally for the making of a ready OU machine a magnetic semiconductor would be ideal that its magnetic on/off property could be controlled by a small stimulus also.

(e.g the magnetic properties of a material should change dramatically by the application of an electric field at right angles)

Or reversely a material that allows magnetism flow throw it, yet the same does not present attraction/repulsion will be a good substitute.

...
Any ideas?