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A, I'm new to this forum and radiant energy, and don't know anything about electronics/electricity/magnetism. Would the Bedini schoolgirl motor be a good place to start my education?
A, I'm new to this forum and radiant energy, and don't know anything about electronics/electricity/magnetism. Would the Bedini schoolgirl motor be a good place to start my education?
Rickb
Hi Rickb, yes that would be an excellant place to begin. You have many folks here who can help you.
We're gaining on improving your setup, it would appear. Not sure why you have the caps on the input drive batts at this stage. If you are using less than 48V to drive the machine, I would recommend putting 100 ohm resistors on the base while leaving the 47ohms on the boards. Without the machine running and the drive power applied, you can check voltages at each of the collectors to determine proper voltage levels. If they are not what they should be there may be a loose connection, enamel still on the conductor, etc. Once all levels are proper, your machine should run fine.
Thanks
Jeff
G'DayJeff
I have taken note of the some Bits of advice above (pun intended) I used a very precise instrument to set the Coil gaps a piece of wood thicknessed to 6.34mm allowing .01 mm for clearance so it would finish up 6.35mm. I found a few placed where there seemed to be a problem So I decided to resolder all the Joints along with removing all the 1N5408's,Neos and the Terminal blocks and replacing them making sure all the joints are firm and correctly soldered. I then changed all the 220's with the 100 ohm resistors. As I finished each board I tested it with my small trifilar SSG I mentioned in an earlier post I checked each transistor with the scope and they all appeared OK. Today when the Primary battery finally was charged( it took 5 days with Bedini's Spanker) I tried to tune it The starting voltages PB was 26.6v and the Charge Battery was 25.3v ( its hard to discharge as it always seems to bounce back). I found with zero ohms that the bulb was very bright and I found that the biggest spike was with about 8 ohms final resistance but the bulb was at its brightest.
I have found that there is no charging with the biggest spike.
After fiddling around with the final resistors I eventually put the Pot back on and I came up with (I think)the best spot 67.4 ohms and 1033 revs The draw on the PB was 2.708amp and pushing into the CB 1.508amps.
However I do not seem to be able to charge the PB over 26v the primary was holding 26.1v.
After resting the final voltages are PBatt=23.8v CBatt=25.6v
Also You asked why I had the Large Caps across the Pbatt terminals The reason is it was in the instructions from Rick that came later after I received my machine.
I hope this all makes sense and thank you for your help.
Kindest regards
Kogs
Hey Bit's,
Watched your u-tube post of Perpetual Self Runner on it you talk about winding a inner coil in reverse before installing your motor windings. could you discuss why this would be beneficial. I have been working on "ricks self runner", and playing around with the induction windings trying to make it a self runner, Close but not there yet.
Thanks
Hey Bit's,
Watched your u-tube post of Perpetual Self Runner on it you talk about winding a inner coil in reverse before installing your motor windings. could you discuss why this would be beneficial. I have been working on "ricks self runner", and playing around with the induction windings trying to make it a self runner, Close but not there yet.
Thanks
As I understand it winding in opposite directions cancels the field. In other words the primary coil it would not see any load even though you were pulling power from the second winding that is wound opposite direction. Collapse of the field should be faster though as well in this configuration.
Hey Bit's,
Watched your u-tube post of Perpetual Self Runner on it you talk about winding a inner coil in reverse before installing your motor windings. could you discuss why this would be beneficial. I have been working on "ricks self runner", and playing around with the induction windings trying to make it a self runner, Close but not there yet.
Thanks
Here is more info on the coil. Look in the in the Tesla thread #3072 for a diagram and further explanation.
Some how I missed that post on the TS thread. So essentially your just winding an addition wire on the outside of an SG coil in the opposite direction, is that correct? And if so, you state your outside winding is 5 filar, why? Did you use each winding with a bridge to "power" 5 loads or did you series them together or have I misunderstood?
Some how I missed that post on the TS thread. So essentially your just winding an addition wire on the outside of an SG coil in the opposite direction, is that correct? And if so, you state your outside winding is 5 filar, why? Did you use each winding with a bridge to "power" 5 loads or did you series them together or have I misunderstood?
Thanks, Mark
No, the inner coil goes to the FWBR, and the outer coil (5 filar in my case, because I had extra spool) is hooked up normal SG fashion. What happens when the coil is pulsed (normal SG operation) the magnetic lines of flux, rise and fall across the inner coil produce AC voltage. In my case, 35v to 56V. The rotor is driven by the normal SG action. Now if you collect this voltage obtained from the inner coil to a sizable cap, you have nice usable voltage. I can matain about 11v - 12v, 1 amp without any noticable drag on the wheel. Multiply this by 9 (coils) and you have some serious usable energy.
Thanks bit, thats what I thought at first but when I read it I thought you stated the inside coil was used for pulsing the rotor, have to reread. Well that sucks because that means the coils have to be rewound . I might give it a try anyway with my 3 pole kit from Rick I have extra spools. Seems like I had it running with a half bipolar circuit using only 9ma 12v and had over 1000rpm. Still would like to get a self runner. Do you recommend smaller, larger or the same size wire for the inner wind.
Do you plan on rewinding all your coils to use this approach? If so awesome!
Thanks bit, thats what I thought at first but when I read it I thought you stated the inside coil was used for pulsing the rotor, have to reread. Well that sucks because that means the coils have to be rewound . I might give it a try anyway with my 3 pole kit from Rick I have extra spools. Seems like I had it running with a half bipolar circuit using only 9ma 12v and had over 1000rpm. Still would like to get a self runner. Do you recommend smaller, larger or the same size wire for the inner wind.
Do you plan on rewinding all your coils to use this approach? If so awesome!
Thanks again, Mark
It is an enormous task to re-wind the coils, but I have three completed. Use the same awg. and you'll be fine.
No, the inner coil goes to the FWBR, and the outer coil (5 filar in my case, because I had extra spool) is hooked up normal SG fashion. What happens when the coil is pulsed (normal SG operation) the magnetic lines of flux, rise and fall across the inner coil produce AC voltage. In my case, 35v to 56V. The rotor is driven by the normal SG action. Now if you collect this voltage obtained from the inner coil to a sizable cap, you have nice usable voltage. I can matain about 11v - 12v, 1 amp without any noticable drag on the wheel. Multiply this by 9 (coils) and you have some serious usable energy.
Jeff
Uh.....I don't have to wind special coils, and don't think that anyone has to, not if all you are doing is running a load off the cap.....What makes this coil configuration so special?
I charge caps via compression points, these caps are then connected to external loads..... caps in this case replace the secondary battery (you really don't have to get rid of it if you don't want to...just add another diode, one going to your load driving cap, and the other to your battery....) When the cap is loaded; lamp(s), motor(s)...ect....ect.... in all of the tests I have conducted, I have not witnessed any loading of the wheel, NO BEMF, on the contrary, depending on how you load the cap, you "may" (not always the case) experience acceleration of the wheel. Sooo....don't believe the hype, unless theres something to it...!
@albert
I remember you having pictures posted of your wire twisting device....where are you in Germany, I would like to setup a meeting...I am in need of a wire twisting jig, and could use your advice, if memory serves me correctly, your coils were beautiful, I would like for my homemade coils to look as professional as yours do!
ah come on man...that comment wasn't meant to offend! Is there something to to be gained from the config you mentioned? I'm humbly asking.....
No offense given or taken, I have found different results through my testing. If you wind the coils the same way, you'll have "Transformer" action and run the drive batts down to nothing. Don't know if your familar with the term "Buck" "Boost" or not. Wind the coils opposite and you'll negate most transformer action. End result, energy without killing the drive batts. Cap also helps hide the work (current) from the coil. All I can say is test and unless you can can have exactly the same setup, then our results will be different. So that said, "don't believe the hype, unless theres something to it...!" I certainly will not. I will not design or produce anything that would miss-lead this community for I have nothing to gain if I did.
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