Bedini 10-coil

[Plazma]

Hi Plazma,

That's a great question, one which I have pondered for many times.

BTW, thanks for the appreciation of my build.

I have always traditionally cut my R60 cores the same length of the coil, without any overlap extending from either end of the coil. However, I did notice that John B usually extends his rods out of the magnet facing end of the coil/s.

I do wonder if extending the ends of the core out from the coil does or does not not affect the amount of "pumping" of the Bloch wall, or not. It can probably only be proved or dis-proved by experiments on the bench, but my gut does tell me that extending the cores would have a bigger effect of creating a non-linear scenario where the Bloch wall can be "pumped" more than if the core was the same length as the coil.

Whether the effect translates to the 10-coiler or not is again, a matter for experimentation, but my feeling is that if the coils surround the circumference of the rotor, as with the 10-coiler, then it may not matter whereas the Big Bedini Machine has the coils in only one portion of the rotor.

I'm purely speculating though and have no hard data to prove these theories as yet.


John K.

@John Koorn,

Reference the spatial symmetry of the 10-coiler, I tend to agree with your response. But, what also prompted my question, was some indication in a few earlier posts that Kogs, also in Australia, was having some troubles with his 10-coiler. As for my own build, it is nearly finished - waiting on a couple of minor parts to complete the trigger circuit is all that is left. Then will start a huge job of conditioning my big batteries.

Another Open Question: Ref the upcoming work, based on your (and others')much more extensive experience, is it better to pulse a battery under charge by switching caps onto it where the caps are charged up from the SSGs or 10-coiler, or charge the battery directly with radiant from the energizer(s). By the cap pulser route the battery sees positive energy transients as the radiant is transformed into so-called positive energy - so, it is then easier to swap and move batteries around to different tasks. However, I wonder if one loses some of the radiant's advantages in working directly on the battery if one uses the cap pulsing instead.

Thanks for All Insights and Assistance,

Plazma

[minoly]

I’d be interested in a definitive answer as well. Perhaps Kogs can cannibalize his machine for us – LOL kidding…

We were assuming the projection of the rods through the shaping plate was only to focus the blach wall and was the only purpose for having them extend through it (up north), and that in the southern hemisphere, the south being stronger – the shaping plate needed to be at the end of the rods to keep the focus in the same area of the coil, as well as capturing the “invisible south’s from around the backside of the passing magnet.

Just reviewed a few EFV vids and JB has those rods all over the place, in out recessed protruding. In his drawings they do seem to protrude toward the wheel for the most part. Opposite of the recommendation on the Farris Wheel. Not sure what to make of any of it.


For cap pulsing – check this out:
YouTube - min2oly's Channel

P’n’S

[Plazma]

Great Video . . .

@Minoly -

Nice piece of design/assembly ref the cap pulser video

So, what were the criteria that led you to use cap pulsing in place
of (or in addition to) direct radiant?

Cheers,

Plazma

[minoly]

@Minoly -

Nice piece of design/assembly ref the cap pulser video

So, what were the criteria that led you to use cap pulsing in place
of (or in addition to) direct radiant?

Cheers,

Plazma

If I get right down to it, the desire to learn and experiment. These projects are fun little puzzles for us (my son and I) - it's good practice and much fun designing experiments to find truisms. we're open to anything and question outcomes constantly even when we "know" we're right.

We get most of our ideas from all of you out there in all these forums.

[Plazma]

If I get right down to it, the desire to learn and experiment. These projects are fun little puzzles for us (my son and I) - it's good practice and much fun designing experiments to find truisms. we're open to anything and question outcomes constantly even when we "know" we're right.

We get most of our ideas from all of you out there in all these forums.

@Minoly (and Son) . . .

That's a very wise answer - and congrats to you for involving your son in this and teaching him 'how to fish' . . . self-reliance will win the day and I think we owe that to our posterity instead of a mountain of debt . . .

Sincerely,

Plazma

PS - I'm training my son-in-law on this

[Plazma]

Big Wheel Keep on Turning . . .

Some progress -

Initial 10-coiler build is now complete - tuning/testing underway.

Cheers,

Plazma

[Mark]

CONGRATS PLAZMA!!!

I'm looking forward to your testing results. Keep us updated!

Mark

[iankoglin]

Re cap pulsing

@John Koorn,

By the cap pulser route the battery sees positive energy transients as the radiant is transformed into so-called positive energy - so, it is then easier to swap and move batteries around to different tasks. However, I wonder if one loses some of the radiant's advantages in working directly on the battery if one uses the cap pulsing instead.

Thanks for All Insights and Assistance,

Plazma

G'Day Plazma
In my understanding of what I have learned whenever an electrical current is applied to an inductor immediately a voltage of equal value is dropped across the inductor in the opposite direction .I believe this is the source of the Radiant energy and so when a cap is discharged into the battery the same thing will happen a voltage of equal value is dropped in the opposite direction as the voltage/current from the cap would be higher than what was going into the cap when it was being charged, Also the cap dumping would have a fast switching effect when the voltage dropped and so would have a greater effect as far as the radiant energy is concerned and therefore would charge the batteries at a better rate also the caps have a lesser internal resistance than the batteries and would have a better result.


I tried to cap pulse my vanilla SSG using a neon to trigger the cap but the neons across the transistors were firing before the one to trigger the discharging of the cap.I really need a better way of triggering the cap.

If I am wrong here I am sure someone will correct me.

Kindest regards Kogs

[Plazma]

Baby Steps . . .

@Mark: Thanks - will post as things develop;

@Kogs: I appreciate your reply. Lots of questions about cap pulsing and maybe its a matter of scale. As I mentioned in an earlier post my Tesla Amp seems pretty impressive in taking solar and pushing some of my big batteries up the 'slippery slope' as well as most recently reclaiming some (sulfated?) batteries that my conventional charger would not charge. I will be comparing relative performance between various setups and the 10-coiler going forward.

10-coiler observations: Performing functional checkout using small, 19AH batteries on one board/coil at a time just for familiarization. Energetics even on a single coil are impressive. Have to watch the charging battery very carefully and make sure it is fairly discharged before running a test so as to make sure there is 'Room at the Inn'. Will sequence through all of the coils/boards one at a time and measure amperage versus speed - then run some combinations of 2 or 3 coils together before switching to bigger batteries to continue characterization.

I will dump energy from the big battery banks through grid tie inverters onto my house/lab grid before running charger tests using the 10-coiler with the bigger batteries. There are KW-Hr meters on the grid ties so I can measure energy transfer.

Near term these are Baby Steps for sure and maybe I am too cautious . . . just trying to keep the smoke in the bottle . . .

Best Regards,

Plazma

[Plazma]

Why Fuses . . .

@All;

A little smoke escaped this afternoon. Made some adjustments and tried to clean up some wiring. Apparently I bumped one of the NE2 bulbs that had too long a lead wire into the board. The bulb deflected downwards and one lead shorted across the 1N4001 Diode to ground. Blew the fuse, and was a witch hunt to find. This is just a heads up to any other active builders out there to watch out for this potential shorting problem. The lead wires on the NE2's are rather spindly and its easy to set them onto the PC board with too long a lead length.

A quick fix for this problem - a spot of hot glue.

Cheers,

Plazma

[Plazma]

Some Data/Observations . . .

@All;

An interesting day. Set up the charging battery at about 70% of capacity - then ran a few short runs on the 10-coiler generally using 2-4 coils at various locations around the wheel. Probably ran a cumulative 30 minutes between all of the tests. Observations:

1- Starting the wheel - have to really tug and spin the axel to get 'er started. Slowly gains speed and current draw increases on one coil up to about 1 amp and I start to increase trigger resistance to lower the amp draw. This means increasing the rheostat resistance from 40 up to about 70 ohms. No light showing on the bulb. My rotor gap is set at 0.26 inches.

2. Switching in additional coils - adding a coil can sometimes increase amp draw and sometimes decrease amp draw - depends on where I have the rheostat set at and where on the wheel position I select a coil (sorta makes sense - sometimes ). Unit continues to build speed. RPM meter battery is kaput. Need to run IT on the 10-coilerr so I can then measure 10-coiler RPM (catch 22? )

3. Charge Rail - measured 34 Volts on the charge rail feeding the charging battery using a DVM (a quick look - then removed the meter). The primary battery was at 25.5 volts and I was running 7 coils. Ran with 7 coils for 5 minutes drawing 2 amps with the rheostat set at 90% or 90 ohms - then shut the unit down. Let the charging battery sit for an hour and then checked voltage on the charging battery and it was at 25.4 volts!! Load tests using a B&K Instruments tester showed both batteries in the 24 volt charging set at 95+ percent capacity. I will check again in the morning but preliminary results suggest that the 10-coiler moved a tandem of 19 AmpHr batteries in a 24 Volt configuration from 70% capacity to over 95% capacity with only 2-7 coils running a total charge/test time of 30 minutes. Average coil count for the 30 minutes running tests was 3 coils.

General Comment - these are very crude, qualitative tests as I am feeling my way along with the 10-coiler. It seems stable and runs smoothly - my only criticism is that it is hard to work on but I'll get over that if I continue to get results like today's. I may have to add a bit of ballast resistance in series with the rheostat - not sure, but maybe.

The future - I'm open to any/all suggestions ref feeding the output of the 10-coiler to a cap pulser. Any suggestions as to best approach to take?

All the Best,

Plazma

[Plazma]

Big Wheel Turning . . . Little Wheel Burning . . .

@All;

As part of our collective training, I gave Mr son-in-law the task of building the 3-coiler kit from the November Conference - slam dunk! He built a really nice assembly and it came up screaming on the very first spin of the rotor. My optical tach read nearly 10,000 RPM at maximum - and that was after adjusting the timing advance by cocking the main coil to the left. Such adjustment of advance increased speed about 25% over what we saw at TDC (actually bottom dead center) on the main coil. Got all 12 LEDs to shine brightly as well as move another 12V, 19AHr battery uo the slippery charging slope. Very impressive.

This experience gives me considerable food for thought ref the advance timing on the 10-coiler even though it would be a royal pita to make the adjustment to the master coil holder and re-position it.

Still tinkering with adjusting base resistance(s) on the 10-coiler. Lot's to learn and do.

Cheers,

Plazma

[citfta]

Hi Plazma,

I also have one of the kits running and I can get it to run faster by shifting the main coil to one side. However when I do that my charging falls off. I seem to get the best charging by having the main coil centered. Did you get the same result? Maybe I am going the wrong direction although I can hear a very definite increase in speed when I shift the coil. When I say charging I am talking about the charging from the 3 drive coils not the added generator coil at the top.

Carroll

[Mark]

Hi Plazma

I'm not sure how your using your tach to check rpm's but I dont think your actually getting 10,000 rpm's. I think you might be getting a reflection from all 3 magnets which is multiplying your reading by 3. I put a piece of black tape most of the way around my flywheel except a small section so I could get accurate reading.

[Plazma]

Speed/Power/etc . . .

@Citfta;

Not sure about charging dropping just due to cocking the coil - charging does drop when powering the LEDs under all the tests we ran - speed picks up but we are still hunting and pecking on base resistance(s) - same for the 10-coiler - thanks for your post and sharing your observations . . .

@Mark;

I share your scepticism ref the 'RPMs?' issue. We tried a lot of crude tricks to get stable numbers as reflections 'R Us - I've got reflecive tape so putting a black background around the wheel rim is an excellent suggestion If reflections on the little one are bad, the 10-coiler speed tests were nutso as reflections were impossible. But, we'll keep on working on both units to get better numbers.

Cheers,

Plazma