Bedini 10-coil

[theremart]

RE: draw..

@All -

Just curious - does anyone have the specific info source for the assertion that one needs an amp draw of 1 amp per coil on the 10 coiler? My experience (so far) has not shown that level of current draw but its early in the game. I could be way off. Any additional info would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,

Plazma

I go by watts per transistor not by coil.

You can count the number of transistors Bedini had in his video Energy from the Vacuum II and get a general guideline.

Things change depending if you are running 12V or 24 V.

Bits should be able to give you good data.

Mart

[iankoglin]

@All -

Just curious - does anyone have the specific info source for the assertion that one needs an amp draw of 1 amp per coil on the 10 coiler? My experience (so far) has not shown that level of current draw but its early in the game. I could be way off. Any additional info would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,

Plazma

G'Day Plazma
When John Bedini demonstrated HIS 10 coiler he said it was drawing 10 amps His machine is not the same as Ricks there are a lot of differences between these machines.If I remember correctly Bits said to me that I need to draw at least 3 to 3.5 amps before I can collect any Radiant energy.

Regards Kogs

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

G'Day Plazma
When John Bedini demonstrated HIS 10 coiler he said it was drawing 10 amps His machine is not the same as Ricks there are a lot of differences between these machines.If I remember correctly Bits said to me that I need to draw at least 3 to 3.5 amps before I can collect any Radiant energy.

Regards Kogs

With the input at 24V, and the base resistors at 100 Ohm, you should see good charging around 2.0 amps input draw. As the machine approaches max rpm, you'll want to readjust for the amp draw.

Hope this helps.

Bit's

[Plazma]

With the input at 24V, and the base resistors at 100 Ohm, you should see good charging around 2.0 amps input draw. As the machine approaches max rpm, you'll want to readjust for the amp draw.

Hope this helps.

Bit's

Hi Bits - Thanks for the timely feedback - what you've posted above is EXACTLY what I am observing so far, including re-adjusting as the RPM shoots up. So far, seems pretty well-behaved. Just have a slew of tests and experiments to slog through.

@TheMart & @Kogs . . . thanks guys for responding. Everything we share is helpful and adds meaning.

All the Best,

Plazma

[Littleremnant]

Now that is some good info!! Maybe I need to have Plazma to ask
questions for me.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Now that is some good info!! Maybe I need to have Plazma to ask
questions for me. ha! Thanks Plazma for asking that question. Now
I have another.

I don't seem to be getting "capacity" out of my batteries. They seem
to have a fluffy charge. I thought it was because I wasn't pushing
enough current, but according to how you guys just answered the
"current per coil" question - apparentley that isn't the problem. Any
suggestions??

Thanks

Can you give us a little more info on your setup?

Thanks,

Bit's

[Littleremnant]

Hey Bits,

Thanks for the reply.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hey Bits,

Thanks for the reply. I am running an 8 coiler with 175 ft of wire
and individual triggers. I have been running this thing for probably
3 years at every current setting you could dream up and still
have a sort of fluffy charge. I have never been able to get anyone
to talk about the tuning until this page. John always said in all his
posts to run all multi-coils at 1 amp per coil, so I have always
tried to get around there.

I have 3 sets of fairly new golf cart batteries (four in series) X 3
and one old set(not yet) conditioned, apparently along with 10
deep cycle marines, that has been cycling for about 2 years +. They
do hold some charge, but not the sort of thing that John talks about
(doubling) in capacity. I have been running them on 8 amps for the
last couple of weeks, but I think that may be a bit much. I am going
to turn it down, and see what happens.

By the way, I can sort of tell the difference in capacity by the new
batteries that I have added to these banks. The new ones run forever
before going down in capacity.

I just thought you guys might have some suggestions. I am getting
tired of cycling.

Ok, here is my first clue, you are running seperate triggers for the coils. This would place the passing magnets not at the right spots. I would work to bring this in to a more conventional setup 10-Coiler type of setup with a single trigger. You should never be at a value greater than 3 amp input draw when the supply is 24-36V. This would indicate that your base resistance is not right and your trannies are turning on way to hard. What size of wire is your coils wound with? 18 - 23AWG works the best. 175ft is fine. What core material are you using? Can you post pic's?

Thanks

Bit's

[Littleremnant]

Hey Bits,

Thanks so much for taking this much time with me. I haven't had good luck
getting questions answered, so I haven't posted much.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hey Bits,

Thanks so much for taking this much time with me. I haven't had good luck
getting questions answered, so I haven't posted much.

I did try to go with a single trigger, but when I went down to 100 ohm bases,
my tranny's started getting hot. Maybe 100 was to low. I tried something this
weekend that may have answered my own question on this. I went away for
the weekend and didn't want to run my batts down, so I pulled all but 3 coils,
and left them running for the last two days. When I cycled back the other way
tonight the batteries seem a lot stronger. Maybe I have been pushing them
too hard. I turned my machine way down tonight, and it still seems to be
charging pretty good.

By the way, my coils are 26 trigger and 23 X 4. The machine is set up perfect
for all the coils to trigger at the exact moment. I am also using the welding rod
for cores. I really think I have just been pushing them too hard, and also maybe
pulling too hard too. I am cutting down all the way around and I think that may
solve THAT problem.

I have more questions, but have found if I ask them one at a time, they don't get
buried in the past.

Thx Bits

Sounds good, keep me posted. I'll answer when I can. Your setup sounds good. More is NOT always better.

Good Luck.

P.S. Make sure your coils are all wound and connected the same way.

Bit's

[Littleremnant]

Hey guys,

Can anyone say what a battery should be charged to

[Plazma]

Overcharge???

FYI - Batteries are like us 'sheeple' taxpayers . . . you can never overcharge them (NOT)

Seriously, there are limits. The manufacturer of my Solar Ones suggest a monthly 'equalization' charge - and, for say a nominal 12 volt battery, that means a deep charge of 14.5 volts using a normal charger assuming you can find such a beast that can charge an 880 A-Hr battery in the first place. The Tesla Solar Amp, the 10-coiler, and my Xantrex backup solar-powered chargers push these S-1 brutes up the slippery slope really well.

As an added extra bit of info, the actual per cell fully charged voltage for lead/sulfuric acid is pretty close to 2.125 volts. String 6 cells in series like in a conventional nominal 12 volt battery and the fully charged state of that battery should register 12.75 volts. Connect two 12's in series and you get 25.5 volts for a nominal 24 volt setup. This is based on an acid strength of about 30% or so which is a very strong, yet fully dissociated solution of water and sulfuric acid. So, an 'equalization charge' for a 24 volt Solar-1 is 29 volts (2*14.5), which is 3.5 volts above its at-rest, fully charged state after the battery internals have stabilized and the surface charges have been fully absorbed. Just some data I gleaned from my S-1 manuals - hope this helps someone.

Cheers,

Plazma

[Mark]

I've been taking my 12V batteries up to 16volts. These batteries were totally junk before, very heavely sulfated. The last one I just revived I thought was shorted out because with the small energizers it would charge up to 15 volts but would instantly drop to 8 volts with a 100amp load tester. Now after just 1 1/2 days it shows 400 cranking amps after load testing it for 20 seconds, twice the recommended 10 second test. And I'm only hitting it with 2.75 amp spikes.

Does anyone know how high in voltage the new Bedini chargers charge a battery?

Mark

[Littleremnant]

Hey guys,

Another question that I am going to keep asking until I get this figured out. John said in the EFTV #6 (at the front), talking about swapping batteries from back to front that:

"YOU CAN'T JUST SWAP THE BATTERIES WITHOUT A TIME PERIOD BETWEEN THEM."

Does anyone know what he meant by that? I understand not mixing the different energies, but things like that throw me. What did he mean?????

Thanks

[Littleremnant]

I fixed the highlight