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Man, have I been living under a rock !! (Actually in Adelaide - same difference...ouch )
Thx to YT's 6 day delay of subs updates I got Bit's video on the "X-coiler" (I like whoever named it that, kind of has a Scully & Moulder feel ) and read through the whole thread - yes, even the flame war, but let's not go back there, eh?
Just wanted to say great work Bit's and keep goin' man. I'm now subscribed to this thread so EF will tell me of updates.
Quick Q @Bit's - when are you going to add some Tesla Impulse Tech to your X-coiler? Then you'll have the full JB ensemble.... just kidding! (Sort of)
Need sleep, bye..
John K.
Hey John, Thanks. The D-TS already in the works to integrate with the X-coiler. Actually, I am working on 3 different devices to work with the "X-Coiler", but all I can say about them is more fun times are ahead of us.
what a wonderful machine! I'm impressed. Is the setup with the switches on a separate board now a part of the kit? And did you do any modifications on the way the wires for the input and output go together? In the infomercial it was all sort of jerry rigged. If the kit is now THAT complete it is really a beauty.
****, when the kit came out the Euro to Dollar ratio was 1,40 now it is 1,19. Just when I want to buy something real bad....
I have tried your setup with the single battery and the inverter on my three coil machines. Not the added tesla switch though. It could work if your inverter has a minimal comsumption at idle. Mine were too high by 500 mA so it was a close thing. I agree that the lower power the inverter the less it takes at idle. If you can design an inverter circuit that is almost lossless then it will work and this would finally silence the sceptics - the fewer batteries the better. Do you plan to add a generator disc?
Beautiful build. & the house around is beautiful too!
Albert
what a wonderful machine! I'm impressed. Is the setup with the switches on a separate board now a part of the kit? And did you do any modifications on the way the wires for the input and output go together? In the infomercial it was all sort of jerry rigged. If the kit is now THAT complete it is really a beauty.
****, when the kit came out the Euro to Dollar ratio was 1,40 now it is 1,19. Just when I want to buy something real bad....
I have tried your setup with the single battery and the inverter on my three coil machines. Not the added tesla switch though. It could work if your inverter has a minimal comsumption at idle. Mine were too high by 500 mA so it was a close thing. I agree that the lower power the inverter the less it takes at idle. If you can design an inverter circuit that is almost lossless then it will work and this would finally silence the sceptics - the fewer batteries the better. Do you plan to add a generator disc?
Beautiful build. & the house around is beautiful too!
Albert
Thanks Albert, This kit is very complete (switches included). The only mod I made was to use the "Buss bars" (solid copper wires between the boards). Thanks for the good words on the house. It was a life long dream.
Bit's
Last edited by Bit's-n-Bytes; 06-09-2010, 06:50 PM.
Reason: spelling
I just went back to your video channel and saw you are doing the same experiments with generator coils on your 3 coil machine that I am doing right now on mine. I think the generator coils are the trick to turn this into something really interesting. I found that you can use several small caps BEFORE the bridge rectifier in parallel to the coil. With this you can tune the thing for optimum output at a given run speed. I am currently able to run 210 LEDS off the single recovery coil I am using. This is in 7 small white LED lamps that are made for replacing of halogen lights, they normally run on 240 Volts and take 2 watts each. I run them directly off the AC coming from the coil. Makes 14 Watts off the single coil. The interesting thing is that there are several resonance points where the light will go dim, then go bright again as the rotor speeds up. The optimum is at rather low 450 to 500 rpm on my machine. Accidentally I pushed the rotor up to several 1000 rpms this morning and the lights went OUT completely.Goes somewhat against what you would expect. This thing is fulla surprises.
I guess one could tune the generator coils to make a minimum of drag and a maximum output. With an additional generator DISC on the ten coiler and 10 additional coils one might expect to get at least 5 Amps off the machine all the while charging the secondary battery. Or more if you have neo magnets...
I just went back to your video channel and saw you are doing the same experiments with generator coils on your 3 coil machine that I am doing right now on mine. I think the generator coils are the trick to turn this into something really interesting. I found that you can use several small caps BEFORE the bridge rectifier in parallel to the coil. With this you can tune the thing for optimum output at a given run speed. I am currently able to run 210 LEDS off the single recovery coil I am using. This is in 7 small white LED lamps that are made for replacing of halogen lights, they normally run on 240 Volts and take 2 watts each. I run them directly off the AC coming from the coil. Makes 14 Watts off the single coil. The interesting thing is that there are several resonance points where the light will go dim, then go bright again as the rotor speeds up. The optimum is at rather low 450 to 500 rpm on my machine. Accidentally I pushed the rotor up to several 1000 rpms this morning and the lights went OUT completely.Goes somewhat against what you would expect. This thing is fulla surprises.
I guess one could tune the generator coils to make a minimum of drag and a maximum output. With an additional generator DISC on the ten coiler and 10 additional coils one might expect to get at least 5 Amps off the machine all the while charging the secondary battery. Or more if you have neo magnets...
Keep going at it and keep us posted!!
Good stuff. I am also working with some gen coils with the X-Coiler. If you want to see things really get interesting take one of the strands of the gen coil (assuming you have a litz wound gen coil) and hook that up the same that you hooked up the normal coils--meaning one end to the drive source and the other to one of the the MJL's (it's ok to also have the original drive coil connection maintained). If you have a 5 filer wound coil, take the remaining 4 and series them up, this should leave you with two wires to connect to the bridge. Run the machine as normal but CHECK THE VOLTAGE AT THE BRIDGE before hooking any other device to it.
Good stuff. I am also working with some gen coils with the X-Coiler. If you want to see things really get interesting take one of the strands of the gen coil (assuming you have a litz wound gen coil) and hook that up the same that you hooked up the normal coils--meaning one end to the drive source and the other to one of the the MJL's (it's ok to also have the original drive coil connection maintained). If you have a 5 filer wound coil, take the remaining 4 and series them up, this should leave you with two wires to connect to the bridge. Run the machine as normal but CHECK THE VOLTAGE AT THE BRIDGE before hooking any other device to it.
Bit's
Is this like harvesting another spike and transforming it 1 to 4 to increase voltage? in addition, advance and retard said coil to see its effect on the entire system as well as its own amperage.
Patrick
Is this like harvesting another spike and transforming it 1 to 4 to increase voltage? in addition, advance and retard said coil to see its effect on the entire system as well as its own amperage.
Patrick
That's basically it. If you understand the "radiant energy" being captured for the output (Charge side) I am utilizing the same concept with additional coils (generating) however, In order to avoid "Uncle Lenz" raining on my parade, I am utilizing the "pulsing action" by just using one of the coil windings. This action, as seen by the rotor, is just another drive coil, but in reality, I am diverenting the "Radiant Energy" to charge a drive battery or as I discovered tonight , almost being able to drive the entire machine just off of the "gen" coils.
have you got the same output (onload) from the charge side, when the generator coils are onload to?
hugs
Not sure if I understand the question, but will try and explain. All original coils (10) are producing ouput to the charge side. So far, 2 additional coils have been added (gen coils) and been configured as described earlier. The energy these coils produce are feed into the drive side. Without the inverter on the charge battery, it charges like crazy. I went from 12.1 to 13.5 in about 10 min. I will be adding 2 more coils (Gen) to get closer to making this self running.
Could you post an image how you added the gen coils? Where is room on the RF machine for that?
I unfortunately have only one 3 filar coil left to test your setup but I'll try it.
Great ideas.
This really advances the thing. I always thought there must be a way to boost the drive batt while it stays connected to the machine. The disconnect-then pulse-then reconnect system is too complicated on a fast running machine because you need to gear down the output shaft -on my machine its too short and just goes beyond the bearing... - I tried it on a one coil bike wheel type machine and it didn't do much.
Albert
Not sure if I understand the question, but will try and explain. All original coils (10) are producing ouput to the charge side. So far, 2 additional coils have been added (gen coils) and been configured as described earlier. The energy these coils produce are feed into the drive side. Without the inverter on the charge battery, it charges like crazy. I went from 12.1 to 13.5 in about 10 min. I will be adding 2 more coils (Gen) to get closer to making this self running.
Hope this helps.
Bit's
Let me know if I have this correct. You have all 10 coils operating as normal. Your generation coils are 4 strands. One strand is hooked up to pulse the rotor and is paralleled to an existing transistor or did you add another trany. Then you take the remaining 3 wires and series them up and hook them to a FWBR and feed that back into the input battery.
After the bridge is it a direct connection to the input battery?
I assume the gen coils are positioned in between the other coils and if I remember correctly the rotor has 20 magnets so the gen coils fire the same time as the 10 coiler fires, is this correct.
The part I'm having trouble with is how your keeping your gen coil from causing drag on the rotor.
Let me know if I have this correct. You have all 10 coils operating as normal. Your generation coils are 5 strands. One strand is hooked up to pulse the rotor and is paralleled to an existing transistor Correct. Then you take the remaining 4 wires and series them up and hook them to a Center tapped transformer (rat shack special) 6-0-6 secondary hooked up for the primary in this case, then the primary's (which are now secondary's) hooked to the bridge and feed that back into the input battery. (Still experimenting with the best setup, i.e. Caps / batts etc.)
After the bridge is it a direct connection to the input battery? YES
I assume the gen coils are positioned in between the other coils and if I remember correctly the rotor has 20 magnets so the gen coils fire the same time as the 10 coiler fires, is this correct. Correct
The part I'm having trouble with is how your keeping your gen coil from causing drag on the rotor. See Below
Keep it up Bits!!! Looking forward to hear more.
Mark
See Comments above in RED
The part I'm having trouble with is how your keeping your gen coil from causing drag on the rotor.
Ok, here is the deal, the Gen coil is pulsed just as the drive coil is and at the same time. When this pulse occurs in the Gen coil, the same effect happens to the welding rod core (Right hand rule applies here so make sure your windings in the Gen coils are correct to make the core a north polarity) when pulsed. This action hides any "LENZ: effect. Let me say that again (just kidding, but take note). This Gen coil becomes a "drive coil" for a nano second, the rotor sees no lenz, and the Gen coil enjoys all of the radiant energy just as the drive coils do. The coils produce AC and when hooked to to the transformer it does 2 things, the first is isolation, the second is the coils don't see much "Work" thus further diminishing the possibility of the LENZ effect, and third(ok I said 2) is we are able to boost the "Potential". If you'll remember some of my work with the Tesla Switch, We want "Potential". "Let the CAPS do the work"
The part I'm having trouble with is how your keeping your gen coil from causing drag on the rotor.
Ok, here is the deal, the Gen coil is pulsed just as the drive coil is and at the same time. When this pulse occurs in the Gen coil, the same effect happens to the welding rod core (Right hand rule applies here so make sure your windings in the Gen coils are correct to make the core a north polarity) when pulsed. This action hides any "LENZ: effect. Let me say that again (just kidding, but take note). This Gen coil becomes a "drive coil" for a nano second, the rotor sees no lenz, and the Gen coil enjoys all of the radiant energy just as the drive coils do. The coils produce AC and when hooked to to the transformer it does 2 things, the first is isolation, the second is the coils don't see much "Work" thus further diminishing the possibility of the LENZ effect, and third(ok I said 2) is we are able to boost the "Potential". If you'll remember some of my work with the Tesla Switch, We want "Potential". "Let the CAPS do the work"
Bit's
Bit's, how have you hooked up the 6-0-6 transformer? One leg to the centre tap and the other to one of the 6V terminals? Is the HV side of the transformer then connected to the FWBR?
Also, JB has always said that you need to convert the RE to "normal" energy with a cap otherwise you will eventually run the battery down. So using his theory you should have a cap pulser circuit in between the FWBR and the battery.
Apart from that I love how you are pulsing the gen coil, I haven't tried that method. Are you seeing ~2000V on the gen coil when it is pulsed. If so, where? And by serialling the other 4 windings are they acting as a transformer and amplifying the potential?
Bit's, how have you hooked up the 6-0-6 transformer? One leg to the centre tap and the other to one of the 6V terminals? Is the HV side of the transformer then connected to the FWBR?
Also, JB has always said that you need to convert the RE to "normal" energy with a cap otherwise you will eventually run the battery down. So using his theory you should have a cap pulser circuit in between the FWBR and the battery.
Apart from that I love how you are pulsing the gen coil, I haven't tried that method. Are you seeing ~2000V on the gen coil when it is pulsed. If so, where? And by serialling the other 4 windings are they acting as a transformer and amplifying the potential?
John K.
Hi John, on the transformer I am connecting to the full winding, center tap is not connected. I haven't measured the Peak spike yet. No load on the transformer is about 68.2 volts, but I need more windings (coils). As for the serialing of the coil windings, I don't think that it is transformer action (that is created by the pulse) but mearly just more turns about the core. Make sure when you serialize the winding that you always take the ending wire back to the "next" begining winding"
Can someone with this motor please perform a 1 min test if you have an DMM that measures L that is. Measure inductance when magnet is farthest away, and measure inductance when magnet is at TDC. Thanks for the effort.
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