Bedini 10-coil

[iankoglin]

Kogs 10 coiler update

G'Day All
Its a while since I posted
I have at last Rebuilt my 10 coiler
I am getting excited with it I have old batteries to fiddle with while I have been rebuilding it I am trying to restore them.

I removed all the neon's and have 100 ohms on all the bases.
the ohms total for all the coils is ??? I could not measure less than .6 ohms with the digital multimeter so I made a special attachment
to fit on the probes so as to measure Milli ohms and they measured .004 ohms?
I purchased an analogue Multimeter from China that with different settings it can measures up to 1,10,100,1000 ohms and on the 1 ohm setting
it measures less than .4 ohms it seems to almost measure Zero it is hard to see on the scale as it is very a mall segment on the dial when set for 1 ohm
to check it I measures a1 ohm resistor and it measured OK
On the trigger I have the bulb that came with the machine and I have placed a 500ohm 50 watt pot in series with it.
My output cables to the Charge batteries are 110/.6 rated for 1000 KV cables for a welder.
also I have the same and similar to connect the batteries in series and parallel.
The cables I am using for the Primary battery is a Solar cable 6mm2 rated 1.5 KV DC only


The spikes measured on the oscilloscope set at 1 division which evaluates to 20v for the height there are 8 divisions in the screen I set the ground at the lowest point on the screen
and moved the scope down 1.5 more divisions the spikes were half a division from the top which makes the spikes 9.5 divs @ 20v = 190 with the probe set at 10x =1900 volts
I have been finding that it always charges best with the pot set at zero
I'm thinking that perhaps I should remove the bulb or then again reduce the ohms to the base I'me not really game to do that yet .
Also I am trying to purchase enough transistors to be able to Beta match them also do the same with the Diods and resistors

I have one heavy duty battery switch fitted in series with the Primary battery negative terminal and the machine that has a removable key that I remove when I switch the machine off.

After I finish playing around with it I will get serious and do some COP tests using My Trojan T105'S I will keep you posted

Kindest Regards Kogs

[MobDelta]

MobDelta for the 10 coiler

i am new to this stuff but the question to those that have done it is can it be done to charge an array of batteries say 50 car batteries and then hook it up to an inverter and get good power from it to run say a household requirements

Can this be done in Fiji.. if Fiji spends $100m on radiant energy technology what can it get? and who can do it? bedini?

Our organization is currently advising the Fiji government in its energy solutions.

Can this be done for a village of 100 homes is it achievable??

please help us!

MOBDELTA

www.mobdelta.yolasite.com
mobdelta@yahoo.com

[albertMunich]

Hello Plazma and others,

I would like to know where you are with your 10 coil research....so far we have not heard much about the self running version...Bits, are you working on the computer driven version that will swap out the batteries? As far as I can see the system is not on the Renaissance Charge site.
I have seen that the direct swapping of batteries from the back to the front end does nothing. The system will run down. Letting the batts sit for a day between runs might help but in the end it will STILL run down, whatever you do.

It s a different ballgame when one uses a part of the machine as a generator or if you add a generator coil. This is the way I want to pursue.A very efficient drive "motor" with energy recovery coupled with a lenz effect reduced or compensated generator might just push this into the OU realm.

On the scope one can see that the same spike thats on the charging battery will also be on the source side. The simple fact behind Johns statement that you cannot swap batteries directly might be that a lead acid battery system will respond well to a spike / high voltage charge but might collapse or get damaged by a similar DIScharge. So caps on the input might do it.
I am getting a little discouraged here because so far no one has reported a true system that will run itself and deliver excess energy on a regular basis. As a desulphating system alone- and only this has been proven so far beyond all doubt- the complex Bedini machine is simply overkill.

Let me hear what you think.....


Albert

[nilrehob]

I am thinking i am going to buy this 10-coiler-kit by friedrich at last,
now that i finally have the funds for it,
so i went to his site to see the current prices,
discovered they have 40 circuits now, didn't they used to have 80?
Does anyone know why they changed it (if im right) and how it affects the performance?

/Hob

[ReggieGM3]

Read msg #17645 on Bedini_Monopole3 in Yahoo groups.
That's all I know.

[nilrehob]

Read msg #17645 on Bedini_Monopole3 in Yahoo groups.
That's all I know.

Thanks, thats a starter
(although Rick didn't say much I'm afraid)

/Hob

[nilrehob]

Is this the 10-coiler v2.0 with 40 circuits?
10 Coiler monopole charging 48V 2000AH Batteries - YouTube

/Hob

[iankoglin]

Kogs 10 coiler update

G'Day All
I am still fiddling with my Rick's 10 coiler
I have not been able to charge24v trojan batteries much over about 25.6 I have changed the Coil/magnet gap several times along with resistance values but as with my last post the spikes are high but can't get over batteries over this voltage, I feel like pulling my hair out but I find I don't have much left.
I have always found that the best charging was at slower revs about 330 and the pot always at zero. As I mentiond in my last post I felt that I should decrease the base resistors to zero but I was not game enough.
I have put it aside for a month or so and after thinking what I could do I remember reading John Koorn's comment somewhere where he said that the trigger wire was not carrying enough current when a multi coil is over (4 or something coils) so the trigger strands need to be doubled. I rang him and he suggested that if there was not enough current the transistors would heat up they were not heating but I thought that perhaps there was not enough power being delivered to the bases so I would try by changing another power strand to double up the trigger.
Today I finished doing this and I started the machine @3:35 pm the charging battery Voltage was 25.2 the primary battery (a bank of old truck batteries being charged by my 24 v 250watt solar panel) 25.6v.
The 500 Ohm pot was set about 50% and the voltage went within 2 min to 26v the Primary draw was 21.6 Amps and the Charging battery was receiving 13.8Amps the speed was 311.6 RPM.
I started to reduce the pot and one of the 10 Ohm base resistors POPPED
I immediately stopped the machine. I thought that I would increase the pot and switch of the trigger for that circuit off and start it again.
The It did start OK but when I adjusted the pot a couple of Transistors blew and caught on fire I immediately switched of the main switch and blew out the flames.
In Summary I think that JK was right there was not enough power on the trigger and when I added the extra wire I should have increased the resistance to the bases or used a heavierwattage like 3or 4 watts.

I have to leave it again until I earn some more money to replace the blown transistors and purchase the heavier base resistors.
I think at last I am getting somewhere. I will keep you posted

Kindest regards to you all Kogs

[minoly]

Hey Kogs – G’day,
These are some fantastic results!
Thanks for keeping us posted – your 10 coiler is in the back of my mind from time to time. I would not have guessed that you would have to double up on the trigger coil. It seems something that would have been covered in the design and/or mentioned in a vid or documentation. These are truly experiment for yourself kits. It does solidify the lesson, however, we’re learning from your experiences just fine, wish I had a handful of MJL’s to send for the cause. I’m currently saving up for a few more myself; that water experiment set me back.
I think what you are talking about (hitting the transistor base harder) is exactly what is happening with the modification we made to the SS SSG. The cap allows some build up which hits the base harder and the diode clamps it shut so the transistor is hard off as well.
I’ll keep my ears and eyes pealed,
Patrick

G'Day All
I am still fiddling with my Rick's 10 coiler
I have not been able to charge24v trojan batteries much over about 25.6 I have changed the Coil/magnet gap several times along with resistance values but as with my last post the spikes are high but can't get over batteries over this voltage, I feel like pulling my hair out but I find I don't have much left.
I have always found that the best charging was at slower revs about 330 and the pot always at zero. As I mentiond in my last post I felt that I should decrease the base resistors to zero but I was not game enough.
I have put it aside for a month or so and after thinking what I could do I remember reading John Koorn's comment somewhere where he said that the trigger wire was not carrying enough current when a multi coil is over (4 or something coils) so the trigger strands need to be doubled. I rang him and he suggested that if there was not enough current the transistors would heat up they were not heating but I thought that perhaps there was not enough power being delivered to the bases so I would try by changing another power strand to double up the trigger.
Today I finished doing this and I started the machine @3:35 pm the charging battery Voltage was 25.2 the primary battery (a bank of old truck batteries being charged by my 24 v 250watt solar panel) 25.6v.
The 500 Ohm pot was set about 50% and the voltage went within 2 min to 26v the Primary draw was 21.6 Amps and the Charging battery was receiving 13.8Amps the speed was 311.6 RPM.
I started to reduce the pot and one of the 10 Ohm base resistors POPPED
I immediately stopped the machine. I thought that I would increase the pot and switch of the trigger for that circuit off and start it again.
The It did start OK but when I adjusted the pot a couple of Transistors blew and caught on fire I immediately switched of the main switch and blew out the flames.
In Summary I think that JK was right there was not enough power on the trigger and when I added the extra wire I should have increased the resistance to the bases or used a heavierwattage like 3or 4 watts.

I have to leave it again until I earn some more money to replace the blown transistors and purchase the heavier base resistors.
I think at last I am getting somewhere. I will keep you posted

Kindest regards to you all Kogs

[iankoglin]

Kogs 10 coiler update

G'Day All


I have checked my 10 coiler circuit boards and 1 all the transistors had blown I replaced them and replaced all the 10 ohm base resistors with 5 watt 10 ohms also I put 1 22 ohm 5 watt resistor on the trigger on each board.

I run each board on a small machine powered by 12v for about 15min each and they all ran without any problems with the exception of one board it seemed to have a short somewhere but using an in circuit tester for the transistors they all appeared to be OK I followed all the lands with solder (as these circuit boards were falling apart because of the soldering and desoldering)

It checked out OK on the small machine.I marked this board for future reference. So now all the boards seemed to check out.

I now fitted one board on the 10 coiler and when I tried to start it it would not start, so I fitted all the boards and when I was connecting the Charge battery there was a spark

so that showed a short somewhere. The 10 coiler I run with 24v front and back I removed the marked board and tried again this time there was no spark

I started it up and it ran for say 1 hour I was able to charge the charge battery to 26v but no more I am sure I will need to remove the one 22 ohms resistor on the trigger for eack board,



The Primary I was using was still the large bank of truck and car batteries I charge with a solar charger (Not Bedini's but will get one early next year) that would not last the distance.

So tomorrow I will remove the 22 ohms on each board and move 4 Trojan's near so I can use these as a Primary battery these are /were new the same as the 8 Trojan Charge battery and try again.



I will have to buy some more MJL21194's to repair the broken board this will have wait as I will order them it probably take a week or 2



Regards Ian Koglin

G'Day All
I am still fiddling with my Rick's 10 coiler
I have not been able to charge24v trojan batteries much over about 25.6 I have changed the Coil/magnet gap several times along with resistance values but as with my last post the spikes are high but can't get over batteries over this voltage, I feel like pulling my hair out but I find I don't have much left.
I have always found that the best charging was at slower revs about 330 and the pot always at zero. As I mentiond in my last post I felt that I should decrease the base resistors to zero but I was not game enough.
I have put it aside for a month or so and after thinking what I could do I remember reading John Koorn's comment somewhere where he said that the trigger wire was not carrying enough current when a multi coil is over (4 or something coils) so the trigger strands need to be doubled. I rang him and he suggested that if there was not enough current the transistors would heat up they were not heating but I thought that perhaps there was not enough power being delivered to the bases so I would try by changing another power strand to double up the trigger.
Today I finished doing this and I started the machine @3:35 pm the charging battery Voltage was 25.2 the primary battery (a bank of old truck batteries being charged by my 24 v 250watt solar panel) 25.6v.
The 500 Ohm pot was set about 50% and the voltage went within 2 min to 26v the Primary draw was 21.6 Amps and the Charging battery was receiving 13.8Amps the speed was 311.6 RPM.
I started to reduce the pot and one of the 10 Ohm base resistors POPPED
I immediately stopped the machine. I thought that I would increase the pot and switch of the trigger for that circuit off and start it again.
The It did start OK but when I adjusted the pot a couple of Transistors blew and caught on fire I immediately switched of the main switch and blew out the flames.
In Summary I think that JK was right there was not enough power on the trigger and when I added the extra wire I should have increased the resistance to the bases or used a heavierwattage like 3or 4 watts.

I have to leave it again until I earn some more money to replace the blown transistors and purchase the heavier base resistors.
I think at last I am getting somewhere. I will keep you posted

Kindest regards to you all Kogs

[Aprentice]

Not what's intended.

Ian Koglin

You understand that you are moving over 550w across your circuit hopping that 5 watt resistors will handle it?
I'm not sure your running it like it was intended.

We want almost no current on the charge end.
On my SSG when I tried to run the resistance down to almost nothing, which was only 50 ohms total I could get great speed and power but very poor charging. When I upped the ohms to 470 ohms then I got moderate speed poor power but great charging.

I'd offer for you to try, jump up your run voltage to 48V and put on 100 ohms of resistance on each trany. and 370 Ohms 50w on the main line. and see what you get. I think it will much better charge your batteries.

Here is a video of my ssg.
M4V00837.MP4 - YouTube

Have a great day
Ronnie

[minoly]

Ian Koglin

You understand that you are moving over 550w across your circuit hopping that 5 watt resistors will handle it?
I'm not sure your running it like it was intended.

We want almost no current on the charge end.
On my SSG when I tried to run the resistance down to almost nothing, which was only 50 ohms total I could get great speed and power but very poor charging. When I upped the ohms to 470 ohms then I got moderate speed poor power but great charging.

I'd offer for you to try, jump up your run voltage to 48V and put on 100 ohms of resistance on each trany. and 370 Ohms 50w on the main line. and see what you get. I think it will much better charge your batteries.

Here is a video of my ssg.
M4V00837.MP4 - YouTube

Have a great day
Ronnie

Hi apprentice,
excellent work on your build, can't wait to see the alternator in action.

on your two coils w/ 15 harvesting transistors, how many spikes were you getting at 50 ohms vs 470 ohms ?

thanks,
Patrick

[Aprentice]

spikes

Patrick

I wish I could answer you better but I don't have very good equipment for testing for the spikes.
What I have is a cheap DSO201 that I got for $100.
What I believe I see is two spikes @ 470Ohms. I could't tell you how high.
What I found was at 50 Ohms my input was twice what my output was.

But again I'm very much a novice at this.
What I do know is that I have 18W input and 15w output with out having tuned it.
I'm thinking that by fine tuning it a little I'll be able to match my input with my output.

Have a great day.
Ronnie

[minoly]

Patrick

I wish I could answer you better but I don't have very good equipment for testing for the spikes.
What I have is a cheap DSO201 that I got for $100.
What I believe I see is two spikes @ 470Ohms. I could't tell you how high.
What I found was at 50 Ohms my input was twice what my output was.

But again I'm very much a novice at this.
What I do know is that I have 18W input and 15w output with out having tuned it.
I'm thinking that by fine tuning it a little I'll be able to match my input with my output.

Have a great day.
Ronnie

thanks for that. you definitely do not want to match your input to your output. you want as little input for the biggest "fattest" spikes possible. this should mean the "output"(I'm defining as amps into charging bat) should be very little compared to the "input" (I'm defining as amp draw from primary)
your charge is looking good though. you must be on BM2. I look forward to seeing more of your work.
Patrick

[tarcisio]

digrama

how will my friends, I wonder if anyone has bought the Bedini coil 10 and bought the layout diagram can place that I can see to be very happy,