Tesla Chargers from Energetic Forum

[Aaron]

John Bedini's EnergenX chargers are available here:


TESLA CHARGERS

[pasalima]

Tesla Chargers

Hi Aaron,

I got your book (The Quantum Key) and must commend you on your ability to simplify what is normally presented in a very scientific/technical way. I'm just sorry I didn't come across it years ago, before I started reading about Tesla, Moray, Beardon, Bedini et al.

I'm very interested in the tesla chargers, but notice that the link is disabled for a while ......just wondering if there's any update.

Many thanks,
Paul

[Aaron]

Tesla Chargers

Hi Paul,

You can go to Tesla Chargers | World's Most Efficient, Effective & Advanced Battery Chargers and look at the products page.
We have the new payment buttons up.

Thanks for supporting my book by the way!

[Mark]

Hello Arron

Do you know when the new Tesla Solar chargers will be available for shipping. I know they can be ordered now but I will not order anything until it is available for shipping.

Thanks, Mark

[Aaron]

EnergenX Tesla Chargers

New 10A12 charger available: 10A12 Battery Charger & Golf Cart Charger

Also, the Solar Tracker III page has been updated! Solar Tracker III

[Aaron]

Live Q & A with Peter Lindemann

Please register for Tesla Chargers Q & A with Peter Lindemann on Tuesday, Mar 4, 2014 5:30 PM PST at:

https://attendee.gotowebinar.com/reg...67684731707138

Peter Lindemann will review some FAQ's and then will take live questions from the audience. This is for any of the wall power or solar chargers from Tesla Chargers | World's Most Efficient, Effective & Advanced Battery Chargers

After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing information about joining the webinar.

[tgraca]

Circuit Question

Hey Aaron,

I have a TeslaCharger 2A12 and refurbished 2 Deka Marine Master - Model DC24 - 140 AH batteries. I want to use them to power my office, which uses just 62 to 90 watts continuously 24/7.

The problem is that one can power my inverter for about 2-3 hours and both may power it for twice that long, but I need at least 14 hours of operation. I notice that if I disconnect a battery, it will charge up again.

I am thinking that I need some kind of differential switch circuit that will use one battery for about an hour, then switch to the other while the other recovers, then switch again.

Here was the test I ran: One battery was holding a charge of 12.69V, I ran my office for 90 minutes (approx. 63 watts continuous during the test), then I shut everything down and let the battery recover. The battery was running down about 0.01 V per minute during operation, but recovered to 12.54 V after 90 minutes disconnected. The voltage ramped up quickly, then slower as time passed. After 3.5 hours it came back up to 12.59 volts standing and held for there for over 24 hours, which is where it is at now.

Can you recommend some kind of circuit I can buy or build to switch batteries occasionally to let one recover while the other is in use? I am thinking this would be some kind of voltage differential relay. Or... can you suggest some other solution?

Once I get this working, I would like to get the Solar Tracker S3A12 to use with 1-3 of my 15-watt solar panels. Let me know if you think it could be done with just 1, 2 or all 3. These panels produce about 23.5V 6 hours per day, and as little as 12V and 70mA (each) just before sunrise and sunset. I'm in Luray, VA and we have 14 hours of daylight in the summer and as little as 10-11 hours during the winter.

Your input is appreciated.

Teo Graca

[Aaron]

Tesla Solar Tracker 5 Considerations

Hey Aaron,

I have a TeslaCharger 2A12 and refurbished 2 Deka Marine Master - Model DC24 - 140 AH batteries. I want to use them to power my office, which uses just 62 to 90 watts continuously 24/7.

The problem is that one can power my inverter for about 2-3 hours and both may power it for twice that long, but I need at least 14 hours of operation. I notice that if I disconnect a battery, it will charge up again.

I am thinking that I need some kind of differential switch circuit that will use one battery for about an hour, then switch to the other while the other recovers, then switch again.

Here was the test I ran: One battery was holding a charge of 12.69V, I ran my office for 90 minutes (approx. 63 watts continuous during the test), then I shut everything down and let the battery recover. The battery was running down about 0.01 V per minute during operation, but recovered to 12.54 V after 90 minutes disconnected. The voltage ramped up quickly, then slower as time passed. After 3.5 hours it came back up to 12.59 volts standing and held for there for over 24 hours, which is where it is at now.

Can you recommend some kind of circuit I can buy or build to switch batteries occasionally to let one recover while the other is in use? I am thinking this would be some kind of voltage differential relay. Or... can you suggest some other solution?

Once I get this working, I would like to get the Solar Tracker S3A12 to use with 1-3 of my 15-watt solar panels. Let me know if you think it could be done with just 1, 2 or all 3. These panels produce about 23.5V 6 hours per day, and as little as 12V and 70mA (each) just before sunrise and sunset. I'm in Luray, VA and we have 14 hours of daylight in the summer and as little as 10-11 hours during the winter.

Your input is appreciated.

Teo Graca

Hi Teo,

The batteries you have are perfectly sized for your demand to keep within the C20 rate of the deep cycle battery - using one at a time so that is good news. If both batteries are in the same shape, then you could parallel them to draw that load at a C40 rate and that would hardly be touching them.

If one powers your inverter while drawing up to 90 watts for only 2-3 hours before going off, then it sounds like the batteries actually need some more rejuvenation.

A 140ah battery - take 140/20=7amp load - meaning you should be able to draw a 7 amp load from one of those batteries for 20 hours straight from full charge down to about 10.5 volts. If you're not getting that, then they definitely need more rejuvenation. The 2A12 can do a pretty good job but that size of battery is getting a bit big for that charger.

When you power a load and turn it off and the battery recovers itself, it does mostly in voltage but with much less recovery and there is sulphation associated with it. It really isn't good for the battery to let it recover on its own then use the recovered capacity. Once it is taken down to 10.5 volts for the deep cycle battery, it is best to charge it all the way up to 15 volts to fully desuphate it and when turning off the charger, it should come down to a resting voltage of 12.6 or higher.

If we look at the battery rating of 140ah and the C20 draw is 7 amps at around 12 volts - it should power an 84 watt load for 20 hours from full charge down to 10.5.

If it is only for 14 hours a day you're powering your office, then 14 hours x 7 amps = is 1176 watt hours that needs to be replaced to full charge the battery (if you're taking that all from the batteries).

Your worst case scenario is 10 hours of light in the winter. That means 1176/10 = 117.6 watts of solar constant for 10 hours just to charge the battery if you're not taking any load from the panels via the Tesla Solar Tracker 5.

I would use 200 watts of thin film low light amorphous solar panels together with a S20A12 Tesla Solar Tracker 5 with both of your batteries in parallel. Tesla Chargers | Tesla Solar Tracker 5 - Tesla Solar Tracker III is Upgraded!

Even with clouds, you should be able to get about 80% of the voltage in those panels.

With 200 watts worth thru a Tesla Solar Tracker S20A12 to your batteries, you can draw about 80 watts to power your office and it will come from your panels first and the excess 120 watts are available to charge your batteries to the top in the worst case scenario of 10 hours of light per day in the winter. Then when the sun goes down, your batteries are fully charged and you can power that load all night long if you want. Next day when the sun is up, repeat. You'll probably never run out of power and the batteries will be in good shape. With both batteries paralleled, your draw at night of up to 90 watts is only in the C40 draw range, which means you're not touching your batteries very much and with this setup, the batteries will probably last as long as the panels.

Aaron

[tgraca]

3rd Grade Math...

A 140ah battery - take 140/20=7amp load - meaning you should be able to draw a 7 amp load from one of those batteries for 20 hours straight from full charge down to about 10.5 volts. - Aaron

Aaron, thanks for the quick response!

So, I am trying to get the 3rd grade math down to calculate components needed for a system or systems for my home. With a given of 84 watts used per hour, 12 volt batteries, and 20 hours min. of battery run time, the calculation for the right battery amp hour rating would be:

• 84 (watts needed per hour) divided by 12 (volts) times 20 (min. hours of run time) = 140 battery amp hours needed, whether it is 1 or more batteries in parallel.

Also... it looks like the calculation for the right solar panel configuration would be:

• 2016 (watts used per day) divided by 10 (minimum sunlight per day) = approx. 200 watts (cloud coverage not factored?)

And... it looks like the calculation for the Tesla Solar Tracker needed would be:

• 200 (watts from solar panels) divided by 12 (volts per battery) = at least 16.66 amp (20 amp Tesla Solar Tracker is the best choice)

Is this right? If so, it looks like we can simply find out the daily maximum energy needed and the minimum amount of sunlight available to determine the solar panels, battery bank, and the appropriate Tesla Solar Tracker to go with it.

Those numbers work for my office, but let's test this math by adding 2 more 1,500 watt circuits - one for my fridge (800 watts per day) and one for other kitchen appliances (2,200 watts per day) totaling another 3,000 watts per day for a total of approx. 5,000 watts per day for the entire system...

• Battery Bank aH needed... 5000 (watts per day) / 24 (hours per day) * 20 (hours of battery life per day) = 4167 amp hours in the battery bank... so about 30 of these 140 aH batteries needed (4167/140).
  
• Solar Panels needed... 5000 (watts used per day) divided by 10 (minimum sunlight per day) = 500 watts
  
• Tesla Solar Tracker - best choice... 500 (watts from solar panels) divided by 12 (volts per battery) = at least 42 amps... maybe the S40A12 Tesla Solar Tracker 5... maybe it would be better to step up to the Solar Tracker 5 S80A12?

Anyway, please check my math... I think this is 3rd grade math, but it's best to have another set of eyes, eh!

Teo

PS - is it best to have all the batteries in a bank the same type and amp hour rating? I may end up with several types of batteries, so maybe I should have a separate battery bank per aH rating, like car batteries versus marine batteries....

Tesla Charger Update: I put one of the marine batteries on the 2 amp Tesla Charger about an hour ago and will track it's progress...

[Aaron]

solar power

Aaron, thanks for the quick response!

So, I am trying to get the 3rd grade math down to calculate components needed for a system or systems for my home. With a given of 84 watts used per hour, 12 volt batteries, and 20 hours min. of battery run time, the calculation for the right battery amp hour rating would be:

• 84 (watts needed per hour) divided by 12 (volts) times 20 (min. hours of run time) = 140 battery amp hours needed, whether it is 1 or more batteries in parallel.

Also... it looks like the calculation for the right solar panel configuration would be:

• 2016 (watts used per day) divided by 10 (minimum sunlight per day) = approx. 200 watts (cloud coverage not factored?)

And... it looks like the calculation for the Tesla Solar Tracker needed would be:

• 200 (watts from solar panels) divided by 12 (volts per battery) = at least 16.66 amp (20 amp Tesla Solar Tracker is the best choice)

Is this right? If so, it looks like we can simply find out the daily maximum energy needed and the minimum amount of sunlight available to determine the solar panels, battery bank, and the appropriate Tesla Solar Tracker to go with it.

Those numbers work for my office, but let's test this math by adding 2 more 1,500 watt circuits - one for my fridge (800 watts per day) and one for other kitchen appliances (2,200 watts per day) totaling another 3,000 watts per day for a total of approx. 5,000 watts per day for the entire system...

• Battery Bank aH needed... 5000 (watts per day) / 24 (hours per day) * 20 (hours of battery life per day) = 4167 amp hours in the battery bank... so about 30 of these 140 aH batteries needed (4167/140).
• Solar Panels needed... 5000 (watts used per day) divided by 10 (minimum sunlight per day) = 500 watts
• Tesla Solar Tracker - best choice... 500 (watts from solar panels) divided by 12 (volts per battery) = at least 42 amps... maybe the S40A12 Tesla Solar Tracker 5... maybe it would be better to step up to the Solar Tracker 5 S80A12?

Anyway, please check my math... I think this is 3rd grade math, but it's best to have another set of eyes, eh!

Teo

PS - is it best to have all the batteries in a bank the same type and amp hour rating? I may end up with several types of batteries, so maybe I should have a separate battery bank per aH rating, like car batteries versus marine batteries....

Tesla Charger Update: I put one of the marine batteries on the 2 amp Tesla Charger about an hour ago and will track it's progress...

The 20 hour run is actually the maximum run-time and not the minimum. If the ah rating is 140 amps / 20 hours = c-20 discharge rate of 7 amps from full charge to 10.5 volts for deep cycle.

With your 2 batteries in parallel, 7 amps is actually a c-40 rate and you could draw 14 amps from those two batteries in parallel and that would be that battery bank's c20 rate.

With home systems, the battery bank can be loaded up to a c-5 rate, which is a LOT, but that is only meant for shorter bursts and not all the time but with loads that don't require that much, you might as well stick to a c-20 rate with the deep cycles.

Your first 3 bullet points pretty much look right - correct, cloud coverage is not considered with the 200 watts. At least with the amorphous solar panels, with full clouds, you should still be able to get more than what crystalline panels will give.

By the way, Peter and I are going to be putting out a 15 or so page solar report and I'd highly recommend you read that first before doing anything major. It will lay out most of the basics on the batteries, etc...

For example, ideally, you never want to use 12v batteries in a solar system, you want to put two 6v batteries in series, especially if you're going to be paralleling the 12v strings for increased capacity. The reason is that middle cells in 12v batts go bad. Anyway, wait for that report, we hopefully will have that this week. We'll show several things that are not commonly known about solar.

For your question on the bigger setup, what will you be drawing during daylight hours?

Again, wait until you see the solar report - will answer a lot of questions.

[Stephen Brown]

Electric Car Charger

Aaron,
Since you are being so kind and answering charger questions.
Can you see any way to use the Large Solar Tracker 5 to charge up a 128 volt LAB bank in an electric car?
I have 16 - 8 volt deep cycle batteries.
I know some of the literature says not to charge 8 volt batteries.
If I broke them out into 24 volt banks for charging purposes?
Otherwise I could purchase 12 volt replacements when the time comes.
In any event, I know the first generation electric car chargers you guys built weren't as effective as you would have liked.
I don't know the back story on your EV chargers and their discontinuation. (could you give us a little history lesson regarding the EV chargers)
I had a friend here in my home town, one of the heads of the EV club, that I convinced to purchase one. He said after a couple of consults, that weren't very helpful, he didn't get any longer life out of his LAB bank.
This was back when Rick was in charge. I was trying to get our local club to start buying them. But they were discontinued after about a year.
I would really like to buy or build a large radiant charger for my EV.
Any suggestion or time frames on EV chargers.
Let me know If this is moot since so many EVs are moving to LiPos. Only us tinkerers are using LABs anymore.
Thanks in advance.
Stephen

[Aaron]

electric car charging

Aaron,
Since you are being so kind and answering charger questions.
Can you see any way to use the Large Solar Tracker 5 to charge up a 128 volt LAB bank in an electric car?
I have 16 - 8 volt deep cycle batteries.
I know some of the literature says not to charge 8 volt batteries.
If I broke them out into 24 volt banks for charging purposes?
Otherwise I could purchase 12 volt replacements when the time comes.
In any event, I know the first generation electric car chargers you guys built weren't as effective as you would have liked.
I don't know the back story on your EV chargers and their discontinuation. (could you give us a little history lesson regarding the EV chargers)
I had a friend here in my home town, one of the heads of the EV club, that I convinced to purchase one. He said after a couple of consults, that weren't very helpful, he didn't get any longer life out of his LAB bank.
This was back when Rick was in charge. I was trying to get our local club to start buying them. But they were discontinued after about a year.
I would really like to buy or build a large radiant charger for my EV.
Any suggestion or time frames on EV chargers.
Let me know If this is moot since so many EVs are moving to LiPos. Only us tinkerers are using LABs anymore.
Thanks in advance.
Stephen

Hi Stephen,

I'll ask Peter if he can chime in here as well.

If you can disconnect the bank in series and reconnect in parallel to have 24v, then you can use the large S160A24, which can support about 4000 watts of solar panels.

As you read, people were abusing the 36v/48v golf cart charger with the 8 volt batts so we stopped offering it and only have the 36v.

In any case, if the bank is 24v, yes, you can use the Tesla Solar Tracker 5 - S160A24

That original e-car charger actually did work pretty good, but I didn't have any personal experience with it since I didn't have an electric car. However, here are a few testimonials for it: Tesla Chargers | Testimonials

One thing about going over 24v is that in a high voltage string of batteries, the middle cells can go bad. We're going to address this in good detail in the free solar report coming out soon.

So basically, 12 and 24 volt banks are the only way to go. I don't have any experience with electric cars but if there are 12 and 24 v systems, for the sake of battery longevity, that is what I'd do...unless you can de-series the batts and put in parallel for charging and reconnect in series for driving.

You mention the lipos' - as you probably know this technology isn't intended for lithium ion batteries - but, the Bedini charging technology IS compatible with LIFEPO4's (if that is what you're talking about) - lithium iron phosphate batteries. The charger would have to be slightly modified in order to be sold for that purpose but it can be done - it has been tested and it works great. I don't know if there will be a multipurpose charger with a switch for both kinds or just a dedicated one, but in any case, we are definitely looking at that.

[Stephen Brown]

Hi Stephen,

I'll ask Peter if he can chime in here as well.

If you can disconnect the bank in series and reconnect in parallel to have 24v, then you can use the large S160A24, which can support about 4000 watts of solar panels.

In any case, if the bank is 24v, yes, you can use the Tesla Solar Tracker 5 - S160A24

One thing about going over 24v is that in a high voltage string of batteries, the middle cells can go bad. We're going to address this in good detail in the free solar report coming out soon.

So basically, 12 and 24 volt banks are the only way to go. I don't have any experience with electric cars but if there are 12 and 24 v systems, for the sake of battery longevity, that is what I'd do...unless you can de-series the batts and put in parallel for charging and reconnect in series for driving.

You mention the lipos' - as you probably know this technology isn't intended for lithium ion batteries - but, the Bedini charging technology IS compatible with LIFEPO4's (if that is what you're talking about) - lithium iron phosphate batteries. The charger would have to be slightly modified in order to be sold for that purpose but it can be done - it has been tested and it works great. I don't know if there will be a multipurpose charger with a switch for both kinds or just a dedicated one, but in any case, we are definitely looking at that.

Thanks for all the great news.
Charging the LIFEPO4s would make the chargers much more versitile.
I think your suggestion on de-seriesing the high voltage bank to 12 or 24 volts for charging purposes is a very good one. I've known about losing the center batteries for a while now.
I look forward to viewing the Solar Report.
I saw John using a 50 amp DC power supply.
Would it be possible to power the large Solar Tracker 5 using grid power?
I have a grid tie solar system.
What would be the best way to do this? Rectify AC to DC then to the tracker 5 inputs?
On-board dedicated EV battery chargers are pretty standard. To have an on board setup using the Tracker 5, that made the LAB bank last, even twice as long, would have the charger paying for itself over a reasonable period of time. Taking advantage of city charging stations would make the whole setup look really good financially.
Many EV enthusiast use their car battery bank to run their house electrical system during outages.
Thanks again.
Stephen

[420Organics]

High Voltage Spark Gap Tesla Coil to charge 48V Batteries

HELLO ALL!

Anyone have any experience charging dead or used batteries with Tesla Coils? I've got a few 100kV Hamilton Drills High Voltage Tesla Coils with a positive and negative brass end (spark gap).

I've got some temporary success on smaller batteries, but I think I need to make a few conductors and run the current through them before charging the battery...ANY SUGGESTIONS?!?!!?!

Thanks ALL!

[tgraca]

Charge Controllers

the large S160A24... can support about 4000 watts of solar panels.

Aaron, how many watts can each of the charge controllers handle?

Can the S160A12, which costs the same as the S160A24 ALSO handle 4000 watts of solar panels?

You had mentioned that an S3A12 can handle 200 watts of of solar panels, but I don't understand the comparison of the amps and voltage to the handling capacity of these charge controllers. For example...

3 amps times 12 volts is 36 watts, which for the S3A12 = 200 watts???

I sent some similar questions to you and Peter in an email, but feel free to share the answer here so everyone can benefit from the answer.

The new PDF shows the solar panels generating 12 volts, but mine generate 21.5 for most of the day... how do I factor that into a Solar Tracker "buy" consideration? The reason I am asking is that I am considering building my own solar panels and WANT TO arrange the voltage to work with the Solar Tracker 5's. I can set these panels to any voltage within a half volt.

Also, I am considering using lead alum batteries, which work great according to Bedini's "build" specifications, but they work at around 9.5V to 6.5V to over a 24 hour period - a very different animal when designing solar systems. Will the Solar Trackers work with a configuration of lead alum batteries like this, and if so, how do I calculate solar panel wattage to Solar Tracker needs?

The AC chargers work quickly to recharge these lead alum batteries, but how would the Solar Tracker work? Can I discharge and charge at the same time? How do I factor in the non-12 or 24 volt banks as shown in the PDF?

Your input is greatly appreciated!

Thanks! - teo