Tesla Chargers from Energetic Forum

[Aaron]

Tesla Solar Tracker 5's

Aaron, how many watts can each of the charge controllers handle?

Can the S160A12, which costs the same as the S160A24 ALSO handle 4000 watts of solar panels?

You had mentioned that an S3A12 can handle 200 watts of of solar panels, but I don't understand the comparison of the amps and voltage to the handling capacity of these charge controllers. For example...

3 amps times 12 volts is 36 watts, which for the S3A12 = 200 watts???

I sent some similar questions to you and Peter in an email, but feel free to share the answer here so everyone can benefit from the answer.

The new PDF shows the solar panels generating 12 volts, but mine generate 21.5 for most of the day... how do I factor that into a Solar Tracker "buy" consideration? The reason I am asking is that I am considering building my own solar panels and WANT TO arrange the voltage to work with the Solar Tracker 5's. I can set these panels to any voltage within a half volt.

Also, I am considering using lead alum batteries, which work great according to Bedini's "build" specifications, but they work at around 9.5V to 6.5V to over a 24 hour period - a very different animal when designing solar systems. Will the Solar Trackers work with a configuration of lead alum batteries like this, and if so, how do I calculate solar panel wattage to Solar Tracker needs?

The AC chargers work quickly to recharge these lead alum batteries, but how would the Solar Tracker work? Can I discharge and charge at the same time? How do I factor in the non-12 or 24 volt banks as shown in the PDF?

Your input is greatly appreciated!

Thanks! - teo

Hi Teo,

The S160A12 can handle about 2000 watts of solar panels because it is limited by the fuse for the current at 150-160 amp range.

If you multiple the amp rating of each charger by a minimum of 12v, you will get the watts that the Tesla Solar Tracker 5s can handle.

The S3A12 can actually handle about 50 watts at 12 volts. A bit more than just 12 volts x 3 amps.

Your 12v panel that is at 21.5 - if that is open circuit voltage, it will drop down to probably a couple volts above the battery resting voltage when connected through the Tesla Solar Tracker 5. When the battery is charge up and in floating mode, it will then hit is periodically with close to the open circuit voltage.

The 100 watt 12v panels I have are at 26-27 volts open circuit and 18-21 volts loaded depending on how much sun.

In your example - I 'm not sure where you get 200 watts from. 3 amps x 12 volts is 36 watts but 3 amps x 15-16 volts loaded on the panel is about 45-50 watts - not 200.

I don't have personal experience with the alum battery conversion and the Tesla Solar Tracker 5's. I'd stick with normal flooded sulfuric acid lead acid batteries.

To calculate what you need, you have to define what your total load is during daylight hours and then night time hours roughly to get an idea.

It is bad for the battery to try to charge it and draw a load from it at the same time. With the Tesla Solar Tracker 5's, any load you have will come through the charge controller from the panels first. If you exceed what the panels give, the remainder comes from the batteries. If you draw a load less than what the panels are getting, then you don't even touch the batteries. If there is excess solar energy above what you are drawing for your load, it will go to the batteries.

What do you mean by factoring in the "non" 12-24 volt battery banks?

[tgraca]

Recommended Voltage per Solar Panel....

Hey Aaron, - thanks... that clarified several things.

What do you mean by factoring in the "non" 12-24 volt battery banks?

Regarding that question, I definitely asked it the wrong way... I meant to ask about the difference between the 12 volt and 24 volt Solar Tracker 5's and if they support the same amount of power (volts versus amps). Since they are the same price, I imagine they do, but am hoping for some clarification on that.

Also, I am still not clear on how 21.5 volts or less from solar panels are transformed into a 24 volt battery bank by the Solar Trackers. Clarification on how the Solar Trackers can take lower voltage from the panels to support a higher voltage battery bank would help with this question.

If I design and build my own solar panels, what should be my goal voltage for the panels with a 12 volt battery bank using the TESLA SOLAR TRACKER 5 S80A12?

I imagine there is an optimal panel voltage input for the Solar Trackers, but I can't find that documented anywhere. I can build solar panels in any half volt increment, like 12V, 12.5V, etc. A lower voltage per panel would cost less to build per panel, but I would build them per your recommendation.

Thanks!

Teo

[Aaron]

Tesla Solar Tracker 5

Also, I am still not clear on how 21.5 volts or less from solar panels are transformed into a 24 volt battery bank by the Solar Trackers. Clarification on how the Solar Trackers can take lower voltage from the panels to support a higher voltage battery bank would help with this question.

If I design and build my own solar panels, what should be my goal voltage for the panels with a 12 volt battery bank using the TESLA SOLAR TRACKER 5 S80A12?

I imagine there is an optimal panel voltage input for the Solar Trackers, but I can't find that documented anywhere. I can build solar panels in any half volt increment, like 12V, 12.5V, etc. A lower voltage per panel would cost less to build per panel, but I would build them per your recommendation.

Thanks!

Teo

For the 24v system, you need 24v of solar, which would be around 36v at least. The 21.5 volts is a good voltage only for 12v panel and only for the 12v Tesla Solar Tracker 5's.

With a 12v bank, the panels I have are about 26 v open circuit and about 18-20 loaded under full sun.

Did you read the free Solar Secrets ebook? Free Solar Secrets

[tgraca]

Solar Secrets ebook

Did you read the free Solar Secrets ebook? Free Solar Secrets

Yes. Read it several times. Thank you for the great insights.

I did notice that the 2 graphics on page 28 used to demonstrate the different battery bank configurations are wired exactly the same way.

The reference to the first graphic says "This way of wiring the battery bank promotes battery failure and the need for equalization".

The reference to the second graphic says "Depicted here is the method we call hardwiring equalization into the battery bank."

Maybe you could clarify this.

Thanks again,

Teo

[Aaron]

equalizing battery bank

Yes. Read it several times. Thank you for the great insights.

I did notice that the 2 graphics on page 28 used to demonstrate the different battery bank configurations are wired exactly the same way.

The reference to the first graphic says "This way of wiring the battery bank promotes battery failure and the need for equalization".

The reference to the second graphic says "Depicted here is the method we call hardwiring equalization into the battery bank."

Maybe you could clarify this.

Thanks again,

Teo

We can make a more clear graphic.

The 2nd graphic shows a common bus bar (vertical green line) connecting the batteries at those voltages. It equalizes the entire bank so the it acts as one large battery. Will never get middle cells going bad this way.

[tgraca]

We can make a more clear graphic.

The 2nd graphic shows a common bus bar (vertical green line) connecting the batteries at those voltages. It equalizes the entire bank so the it acts as one large battery. Will never get middle cells going bad this way.

Aaron, Thanks for fixing that so quickly and sending it out to me, and I guess everyone... awesome response time!!! You guys are the best!

Glad I could help with that... Thanks!

Teo

PS - updated eBook at freesolarsecrets.com

[Michelinho]

Burnt out Tesla solar tracker 5.

Hi all,

Today I went outside to clean up the connectors on my small solar panel array feeding the Tesla solar tracker 5, when I came back in the house, it wasn't working any more and I check the panel output, nearly 65W. I opened the charger and the 6A40 diode was surrounded by dark brown resin, the rest was snow white. The diode is done for so I decided to clean out the resin from the board to see if I could fix it.

I did it in about 2 hours with my hot air rework soldering station and a few small sharp screwdrivers. I have seen amateur weld before but these beat them all, my 9 years old grand daughter could do better without even trying.

I'll do another board, buy the components and do it like it should be done, no resin and a small fan. I was going to buy a larger charger eventually but now I guess I wont. The resin acts as an insulator and it's probably why the diode burnt with the clean panels and panel connectors giving out 20W more than what the unit is rated.

So the lesson here is do not go above the 45W rating for the Tesla solar tracker 5 or the same will happen to yours.

Take care all,

Michel

[Aaron]

S3A12 Tesla Chargers Solar Charge Controller

Hi all,

Today I went outside to clean up the connectors on my small solar panel array feeding the Tesla solar tracker 5, when I came back in the house, it wasn't working any more and I check the panel output, nearly 65W. I opened the charger and the 6A40 diode was surrounded by dark brown resin, the rest was snow white. The diode is done for so I decided to clean out the resin from the board to see if I could fix it.

I did it in about 2 hours with my hot air rework soldering station and a few small sharp screwdrivers. I have seen amateur weld before but these beat them all, my 9 years old grand daughter could do better without even trying.

I'll do another board, buy the components and do it like it should be done, no resin and a small fan. I was going to buy a larger charger eventually but now I guess I wont. The resin acts as an insulator and it's probably why the diode burnt with the clean panels and panel connectors giving out 20W more than what the unit is rated.

So the lesson here is do not go above the 45W rating for the Tesla solar tracker 5 or the same will happen to yours.

Take care all,

Michel

Overloading the 3amp 12v charge controller by 50% above the rated power and melting the circuit is not in the category of manufacturing flaws - it is from abusing the unit with solar input of 65 watts, which it is not designed for.

If you don't want to purchase a larger unit because of abusing and breaking a smaller unit, that is your choice, but it needs to be absolutely clear that it was the fact that you delivered 65 watts to a 45 watt unit that burnt it out and not a flaw or defect of the products.

The circuit and any soldering is only the highest of quality. With overloading it by 20 watts, the heat has to dissipate somewhere and that is the source of the problem - you will melt things.

With or without the resin, you will overhead and burn out the circuit if you're supplying 65 watts to a 45 watt unit. That is why it is rated as such.

Small fan is not necessary if you are within the rated input for the unit.

These charge controllers remain the finest in the world and they need to be operated within the rated power for each unit.

Solar 3 Amp 12 Volt Lead Acid - Tesla Chargers

[Michelinho]

Hi Aaron,

I know it was overloaded so I wont ask for a RMA. it was hooked up to 65 watts (max) of input instead of 50 Watts as advertised.

"The portable solar charging solution for up to 50 watt solar panels for when you’re on the go!" from Solar 3 Amp 12 Volt Lead Acid - Tesla Chargers

If you don't know, the 6A40 is a 6 Amps diode, it had cold weld on each end and that was part of what killed it. The diode slipped out from the board while I was removing the resin same with one end of the 200 KOhm resistor and same with both ends of the 5W .05 Ohm resistor. The diode is probably the last thing to burn out in the circuit but arcing at the solder points will generate voltage transients and heat

I checked the board under a magnifier and if it is the best quality solder you have on these units, it's probably true but the guy who did the soldering is the weak link, fire the bozo or give him a desk job checking the boards before they get the resin bath.

Take care,

Michel

[Aaron]

S3a12

If you can email us some photos of this to the Tesla Chargers email, that would be greatly appreciated.

I personally know everyone at the company that builds these circuits and cold solder joints are not in their vocabulary.

If you replaced the diode does it work now? There are other components that can burn out from overload and the diode is 6amps to be overrated. We don't want to build a unit rated for 3 amps if the parts max out at 3 amps.

Hi Aaron,

I know it was overloaded so I wont ask for a RMA. it was hooked up to 65 watts (max) of input instead of 50 Watts as advertised.

"The portable solar charging solution for up to 50 watt solar panels for when you’re on the go!" from Solar 3 Amp 12 Volt Lead Acid - Tesla Chargers

If you don't know, the 6A40 is a 6 Amps diode, it had cold weld on each end and that was part of what killed it. The diode slipped out from the board while I was removing the resin same with one end of the 200 KOhm resistor and same with both ends of the 5W .05 Ohm resistor. The diode is probably the last thing to burn out in the circuit but arcing at the solder points will generate voltage transients and heat

I checked the board under a magnifier and if it is the best quality solder you have on these units, it's probably true but the guy who did the soldering is the weak link, fire the bozo or give him a desk job checking the boards before they get the resin bath.

Take care,

Michel

[Michelinho]

Hi Aaron,

Yes, I will do the pictures tonight and send them to the Renaissance site and no some of the circuit components were damaged from the heat of the rework station hot air and scraping removed the coating of the 3 resistors. The PCB is not damaged so it will be a breeze to make it work again by just installing new components (I have most in stock).

Take care,

Michel

[Aaron]

where?

Hi Aaron,

Yes, I will do the pictures tonight and send them to the Renaissance site and no some of the circuit components were damaged from the heat of the rework station hot air and scraping removed the coating of the 3 resistors. The PCB is not damaged so it will be a breeze to make it work again by just installing new components (I have most in stock).

Take care,

Michel

Did you purchase the charger from R-Charge or from Tesla Chargers?

[Michelinho]

I think it was from Tesla Charger cause I bought it just after you made an announcement in the forum that they were in stock. I'll have to check to make sure.

Michel

[Michelinho]

Found my invoice, jeff at Tesla Charger April 10 2014.

[Michelinho]

Hi Aaron,

Sent seven pictures to info@teslachargers.com in 2 emails. If you need more, I still have some.

Take care,

Michel