Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[John_K]

John K,

Looking good!

I too have designed my wheel for a 4' diameter. Do you think that there is any special requirements on distance between magnets? I have ordered 6"x2"x1" ceramics and 2"x1"x0.5" neos. Starting to wonder if those are too big for this size wheel. It puts the about 7.5" from edge to edge. Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks, Brent

Hi Brent,

7.5" spacing sounds OK. My ceramics are only 40mm x 25mm x 10pm and the neos are 10mm x 4mm x 4mm.

I'm still learning so I don't know if my geometry is right or not. Just thinking aloud, I will look at John B's machine pics and try and get the gauss and pull strength for his magnets to get a better idea of the geometry he has.

P.s. Thanks John B for the info on the SCR. I have a few ideas I will try in line with your directions.


John K.


John K.

[cornfused]

Thanks Jason!

Are any of those the "pole splitter"? That is what is most intriguing
about what you mentioned before?

John just posted: "One other clue here. ED said that the magnetic streams could be split and if guided in the proper channels become perpetual in flow so we do not need anything spinning, do we. More later as I think of it."

If there is one thing to search for in that book at the moment, it would
be the "pole splitter" to see if it describes any of Ed's methods for splitting
the magnetic streams.

Turion & Aaron..
Well I got my train of thought mixed up,, Thanks for pointing out my mistake! my pole splitter was meant to be pole changer,, Sorry for the mistake. Last thing I want to do is post irrevelent stuff here. I knew I had seen some examples of a pole splitter (I guess I made that term up) so I reread Davis's book again,, this is what I originally wanted to post.
Thanks guys, Jason

Page 81-82 fig. 55 /Eletro-mag with 3 poles
Page 65 Fig.41 /Y armature(keeper)

[John_Bedini]

Bedini GT3

Vissie,
I think I would turn that Zener around and you will see why I did it that way Chuck and I have one working on the bench. You will first see the led's glow then get bright and then the SCR will dump to the battery. You
need a few electrons as you would call it first. The speed of the motor is important or it will not switch. Somewhere on pages back someone posted that circuit and I said I would test it. this is what I found out that if you use a much higher voltage zener you do not get the current pulse you want The led's solved the problem nothing else worked with that. If the battery does not have the impedance it will not work. This was not my circuit and I just tested it ,it worked real good did not loose much power at all.
John B

Hi John
Is this circuit correct. Is there any specific reason why you use the 2 leds instead of a higher value zener
Vissie

[Turion]

Still waiting for my wire to arrive so I can get my coil wrapped. Going crazy staring at this great big wheel that I can't do anything with. And my wife is wondering what this monstrosity is in her pool room! LOL.

I'm enjoying all the contributions from everyone. Thanks for sticking around John, and helping everyone out with advice. I know we ALL appreciate it tremendously. I can't tell you how many pages of notes from this thread I have taken.




"All truths are easy to understand once they are discovered; the point is to discover them." Galileo Galilei

[erfinder]

Thanks Jason!

Are any of those the "pole splitter"? That is what is most intriguing
about what you mentioned before?

John just posted: "One other clue here. ED said that the magnetic streams could be split and if guided in the proper channels become perpetual in flow so we do not need anything spinning, do we. More later as I think of it."

If there is one thing to search for in that book at the moment, it would
be the "pole splitter" to see if it describes any of Ed's methods for splitting
the magnetic streams.

Quote from Ed Leedskalnin's book Magnetic Current

"To make magnets with currents from batteries and dynamos with a single wire the metal will have to put on the wire in such a way so that the magnets which are coming out of the wire will be running in the metal starting from the middle of the metal and run to the end and not from end to middle and across as they did last time...

End Quote




Split?.....

Regards

[Mr.Whip]

Is this splitting ?

Quote from Ed Leedskalnin's book Magnetic Current

"To make magnets with currents from batteries and dynamos with a single wire the metal will have to put on the wire in such a way so that the magnets which are coming out of the wire will be running in the metal starting from the middle of the metal and run to the end and not from end to middle and across as they did last time...

End Quote




Split?.....

I don't know if this is close. But it shows where the wire is attached too the middle and letting the current kinda split!

[ATTACH]7211[/ATTACH]

Regards

Randy

[nvisser]

Vissie,
I think I would turn that Zener around and you will see why I did it that way Chuck and I have one working on the bench. You will first see the led's glow then get bright and then the SCR will dump to the battery. You
need a few electrons as you would call it first. The speed of the motor is important or it will not switch. Somewhere on pages back someone posted that circuit and I said I would test it. this is what I found out that if you use a much higher voltage zener you do not get the current pulse you want The led's solved the problem nothing else worked with that. If the battery does not have the impedance it will not work. This was not my circuit and I just tested it ,it worked real good did not loose much power at all.
John B

Thank you for the answer John.
I will check it out as soon as I get home tomorrow.
Why will it not work if the speed of the motor is to fast?
Vissie

[John_K]

Bedini GT3

I experimented with the SCR (TYN816 - 800V 16A) switch, same as John B said but the only zener I had did not last long. Not sure what it was (couldn't read the writing on it) but when it worked I was dumping about 9V over the battery and the battery would jump from 13.0V to 14.2V every 1 second. I was using a 10,000uf 25V cap. On an analog amp meter the pulse was about 300mA.

I could see the two LEDs gradually get brighter and then dim when the cap dumped.

I also experimented with adjusting the angle of the metal shield on the bottom of the coil. It seemed to work best when the flaps were at about a 45 degree angle. I still need to play with it more.

I will get some 4.7V zeners tomorrow and some more SCRs and I hope the halls will arrive tomorrow in the post from Ren so I can convert the Bedini/Cole circuit to hall switching. I think hall switching will reduce the draw current and bring the RPMs down as well, if I adjust the dwell properly.

@John B, I measured the resistance of the coils - the 2 thicker wires are 9.4 ohms each and the 2 thinner wires are 16.1 ohms each.


John K.

[Armagdn03]

Quote from Ed Leedskalnin's book Magnetic Current

"To make magnets with currents from batteries and dynamos with a single wire the metal will have to put on the wire in such a way so that the magnets which are coming out of the wire will be running in the metal starting from the middle of the metal and run to the end and not from end to middle and across as they did last time...

End Quote




Split?.....

Regards

Good to see you back, and nice / pertinent quote.

[rosehillworks]

Hysteresis

John Bedini:
Please tell me if I am understanding this correctly.
We need to hit the battery with a very small amount of current, if you want to call it that. This will cause some charge crowding on the plates of the battery causing an increased impedance in the battery because of the hysteresis caused by the charge to mass ratios within the battery. While the charge crowding exists we then hit it with a pulse causing a regauging effect to suck in the energy. Do I have this right or am I way off track? Thanks, William

[mklimesh]

MAGNETIC CURRENT page 4

I find it interesting that he states

"You can drag the magnet over the rod from end to end, but never stop in middle."

Then he takes the next paragraph to explain how to test it to see if you have the extra pole in the middle when you do stop.

"If you stop in middle there will be an extra pole so it will disturb the magnet's circulation."

Mike Klimesh

[Aaron]

Reversable Permanent Magnet

I moved these last few posts on the Reversable Permanent Magnet
to this thread:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...edskalnin.html

[Jetry]

Dear Mr. John,

It's really a great feeling to be able to address you directly. Thanks for everything you have done to help humanity. I do have some question I'd like to hear your point of view on.

I have been experimenting with cappulsing lately. But a funny thing kept happening. When the charged battery is under pulse, its voltage quickly rises pretty high (between 15 and 16V). Seeing how fast the battery get charged, I am all exited and was so happy that I finally pass the OU barrier. But this excitement quickly turn into bitterness. Because as soon as I stop the machine, the battery quickly lose the charge and goes right back to the initial voltage. Can you explain what is happening and how to fix that problem?

Note that the batteries I am using are new and can't be the problem.

Respectfully yours,

Jetry.

[Sawt2]

John K
Could you please direct me to the schematic for the Bedini/Cole circuit, with hall switching?
Thank you
Brian

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Dear Mr. John,

It's really a great feeling to be able to address you directly. Thanks for everything you have done to help humanity. I do have some question I'd like to hear your point of view on.

I have been experimenting with cappulsing lately. But a funny thing kept happening. When the charged battery is under pulse, its voltage quickly rises pretty high (between 15 and 16V). Seeing how fast the battery get charged, I am all exited and was so happy that I finally pass the OU barrier. But this excitement quickly turn into bitterness. Because as soon as I stop the machine, the battery quickly lose the charge and goes right back to the initial voltage. Can you explain what is happening and how to fix that problem?

Note that the batteries I am using are new and can't be the problem.

Respectfully yours,

Jetry.

Jetry, this would be an indication of a heavy sulfated battery. What is the resting voltage? A healthy battery would rest at about 12.6 for a fully charged batt, and about 12.2 for a 80% discharged batt. If sulfation is present (even if it is new, sulfation can happen), your batt might be resting at 10.5 and show great gains while being charged but quickly return to this level. Keep pulsing it for about an hour, then let it rest for a while. Take the reading of the voltage and pulse it again for an hour. Do you see gain? If so keep going. If not, place a load on the batt and draw it down to 10.5. Repeat this process as long as you see gains. If after three times and still no change, you may have a shorted cell and its time for a new batt.

Hope this helps.

Jeff