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  • Originally posted by John_K View Post
    Hi Les,

    My thoughts are that the duty cycle should be just long enough to saturate the core/s of the coils. I don't know or can't remember if John B ever posted what it was for his setup. It will be different for every setup as we all have different coils.

    My experience with the Monopole SSG is to tune it for the least amount of draw current to best rate of charging. But that may not necessarily apply to the GT16-3 in some way.

    The timing of the hall, duty cycle, placement of the coils, iron flap angle, coil gap, etc. are all variables that you'll have to experiment with. Kind of like tuning up a car I think.


    John K.
    Thanks John,

    I couldn't adjust the dwell any better so I have gone to smaller magnets. that seems to have helped.
    But here is what's interesting. As I adjust the timing Advance or retard it just like in a car. One transistor will be cold and the other quite warm. then as I change the timing it will get to where they will both be cold and then as I continue the other tranny will start getting warm. I don't have as much control over the dwell as I had hoped but I think this is pretty close.

    I agree with what you are saying about the differences, in all our builds and that's why I am looking for patterns. certainly after playing with this machine.... it is no SSG, or G-field, or window motor. I have made them all, and this is exactly as John bedini said; very different. Very complex!
    Not for the light of heart! However it is the greatest learning I have had on any of my builds.
    watching how John's amp meter moves in the videos and seeing mine do the same thing, it looks like the pulse is not so much a spike as we are used to. It really is starting appear more like a pump to me.

    Anyway, I really appreciate your time and answers John K, I know you guys are really involved in things for the convention.

    Les
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • Measuring current output with a shunt

      It sounds like everyone is using an analog ammeter to measure a pulsing current. I don't see how this can give you an accurate reading. We use a calibrated current shunt connected between the output and the charging battery. Measured across the shunt; Ten mV=1 amp. We connect our scope probe across the shunt and you can see the current level each time it pulses. On the 10 coiler, we are currently getting 9 amp pulses with a 12v primary and 15 amp pulses with a 24 amp primary. This is with the coils connected directly to the battery under charge without any output switching. We're working on the output switching now.
      This is a joint effort between TurboDan and me. He did a great job in fabricating the machine and I'm working with him on modifications that will let us get some usable power out of it. Videos to follow soon.

      Comment


      • Ed Leedskalnin Perpetual Motion Holder

        Hi All,

        YouTube - magnetic cancelling

        I saw this interesting video on You Tube this morning regarding Ed Leedskalnin Perpetual Motion Holder, I remember reading in his book Magnetic Currents Illustrated on Page 24 about, and I quote, “ Magnetic currents are made by concentrating, then dividing and then shifting the existing North and South Pole Individual magnets from one place to another” then I remember that John B mentioned something about it.

        Any way I thought I would mention it.

        Cheers,

        David Brown (Belfast).
        Regards,

        David Brown (Belfast)

        Comment


        • Sample material analysis

          JB,

          Check your energetic forum email. I have the material analysis results for the samples you sent.

          Thanks, Ron

          Comment


          • It got quiet around here??

            Here is my latest change.
            I removed the timing wheel with the magnets and replaced it with an optical switch.
            I did not change anything to the circuit, but I think I will replace the 15v zener and
            resistor to a better match for the switch.
            The timing wheel has a 1/8 inch gap and you can see the scope shot and the milli
            amps in the videos.
            This has worked well for my set up because the wheel is slighty out of round.
            Very slighty, but since the halls are so sensitive to any miss-alignment it caused
            a fluctuation in the out put.
            I will also play with the gap of the timing wheel. I think I will try a 1/16 inch gap next.
            Also a note that I can not get this to self start with 12v. Only when at 24v.

            Mark

            YouTube - GT3 v2 22.2gp

            YouTube - GT3 v2 23.3gp
            Last edited by Rl2003; 03-09-2011, 02:46 PM.

            Comment


            • Everyone take spring break early????

              @All,

              Wow, this thread got quiet (EDIT: Just saw that Mark posted! Beat me to the punch). Anyway, Brent and I wanted to keep you guys posted on "Junior". We finally got the rods in last Thursday. We blew through the 50 lbs of rod and we still need more. We were able to finish the core for the main coil (It weighs 148 lbs altogether) and have enough to finish one of the slave coils. Since we got the main coil done, we were a little eager to hook everything up and see her spin.

              Here is the video of it.
              Bedini 3GT "Junior"


              Thanks,
              Scott

              Comment


              • Originally posted by txaggie00 View Post
                @All,

                Wow, this thread got quiet (EDIT: Just saw that Mark posted! Beat me to the punch). Anyway, Brent and I wanted to keep you guys posted on "Junior". We finally got the rods in last Thursday. We blew through the 50 lbs of rod and we still need more. We were able to finish the core for the main coil (It weighs 148 lbs altogether) and have enough to finish one of the slave coils. Since we got the main coil done, we were a little eager to hook everything up and see her spin.

                Here is the video of it.
                Bedini 3GT "Junior"


                Thanks,
                Scott
                Very nice, you are making some excellent progress! I'm very interested in the ckt you put together to match the transistors, any chance you could post that?

                Patrick

                Comment


                • Beta circuit

                  Thanks Patrick!

                  JB posted the link to the circuit back on page 33. We made both variations of the circuit (NPN and PNP). We ordered about ten of each and luckily found 4 of each that were really close, if not exact, to each other (With that circuit, the NPN's ranged from 4.14-4.17 mA and the PNP's ranged from 7.68-7.73 mA). We have not had an issue with any of them heating up at all. They're actually all quite cool to the touch.

                  Thanks,
                  Scott

                  EDIT: Also, we used a 12VDC wall wart to power the circuit.

                  Originally posted by minoly View Post
                  I'm very interested in the ckt you put together to match the transistors, any chance you could post that?
                  Last edited by txaggie00; 03-09-2011, 05:05 PM.

                  Comment


                  • 3GT update on timing

                    Scott awesome!
                    Finally got all my coils on and have been playing with timing.
                    Haven't got the cap pulser to work yet so still just running some lights..
                    But here is a scope shot of the timing. you can see the magnet pass (green) and then just as it is going down the circuit is fired. It shoots up and then you can see the spike coming off the back. The yellow is the hall switch. in relation to the circuit.

                    It self starts, rolls back a few inches and then kicks forward very nicely. I am only running at 12 volts for now until I can get some more MJL's in to match beta. I have tried changing the 220 resistor to 680 but it still warms up after a few minutes. since both transistors warm up the same they are a pretty good match.

                    Les
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                    • Hi Les,

                      Looks great on the scope. I think the timing is pretty close.

                      @Scott & Brent - awesome work!

                      I'm still waiting on parts so I've been a bit quiet on this thread.

                      I haven't given up


                      John K.

                      Originally posted by Les_K View Post
                      Scott awesome!
                      Finally got all my coils on and have been playing with timing.
                      Haven't got the cap pulser to work yet so still just running some lights..
                      But here is a scope shot of the timing. you can see the magnet pass (green) and then just as it is going down the circuit is fired. It shoots up and then you can see the spike coming off the back. The yellow is the hall switch. in relation to the circuit.

                      It self starts, rolls back a few inches and then kicks forward very nicely. I am only running at 12 volts for now until I can get some more MJL's in to match beta. I have tried changing the 220 resistor to 680 but it still warms up after a few minutes. since both transistors warm up the same they are a pretty good match.

                      Les
                      http://teslagenx.com

                      Comment


                      • Thanks John,
                        I wasn't sure as that has been a bit of a gray area. I ended up making a second magnet wheel. The first had 3/4" magnets just slightly over one magnet apart. The new one has 1/2" at about 1-1/2 magnet spacing apart. There is a big difference when the hall is on the outside diameter of the magnets compared to the inside. It almost seems the field is not circular as I thought but more of a pie shaped field even though the mags are round.

                        The machine starts out by pulling almost three amps. then settles down at about 400ma. when I went to twenty four volts my rpms went up to about 38 and then it settled in on about 1 amp.

                        Putting a small set of lights as a resistive load and measuring the watts the machine is about 70% efficient. I know that is not a good test as it won't pick up the radiant like going into a battery but it is fun to see.

                        I don't know what a CH is but if it is cold boiling a battery in minutes I can't wait to find out more. And while your at it...(Cold boiling) check your Joule theif. Mine went way OU around cold boiling batteries.

                        Les

                        Comment


                        • 3GT "Junior"

                          Thanks Les and John K!

                          We have gotten the wheel to self start, but for some reason the cap doesn't dump correctly when we do that. We are putting a bigger transistor in for the hall. It is actually the one that John K has in his schematic. We are separating the circuits (hall circuit, coil transistor circuit and cap dump circuit) and cleaning up all the wiring (getting rid of the leads and wiring everything with a bigger gauge wire. Will post some pictures, schematics or video when we get it running better. Our friend that works for airgas is looking in to possibly break up a 50 lb box of rods so we can purchase the 15 lbs we need instead of either buying another 50 lb box or 15 - 1 lb tubes, which would be rather pricey! It looks like it may take some time to get them. I would have guessed back in December when we started this project, that we would have been done by now and running some tests. Hurry up and wait seems to be the trend though. We are so close!

                          Thanks,
                          Scott

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by txaggie00 View Post
                            Thanks Les and John K!

                            We have gotten the wheel to self start, but for some reason the cap doesn't dump correctly when we do that.
                            Hi Scott,

                            Try replacing the 2 little red LEDs for a couple of big (10mm) super-bright ones. Blue ones look cool!

                            Cleaning up the circuit is probably one of the best and cheapest ways to improve performance. On another project I ditched the bread board and soldered all the components together and gained about 20% in performance!

                            I was saying to Bit's the other day that I wonder how many people have had an OU setup, but didn't know it because of poor connections, clip leads etc. I wonder how many were so close but gave up because of a crappy solder joint or a dodgy clip lead.


                            John K.
                            http://teslagenx.com

                            Comment


                            • "Junior" 1GT update

                              Hey Everyone!

                              Just wanted to post an update. We have separated the 3 circuits and gotten rid of the clip leads. We changes a few things as well and "think" we have it right. The paralleled transistors are still really cool, but we are having some timing issues and wanted to see if you guys had any ideas. The transistor for the hall is getting pretty warm. Not hot, but warm enough to warrant some questions. We have noticed that the timing of the hall is absolutely critical for everything. A couple of notes about that. We are using the south side of the magnets for the hall. I know we need to get some bigger timing magnets, maybe 1", and also have a bigger diameter. Any suggestions? It's taking roughly 15 seconds for the cap to charge up to about 77 V and dump, but it is dumping about 30 V. A far cry from from dumping 3 times per second. We are really eager to get the slaves done and finally get rid of those darn clamps.

                              Anyway, here is the video update!

                              If you guys have any suggestions, we are all ears! Thanks so much for all your help!

                              @John K,

                              Thanks for your suggestions. I am going to pick up some 10mm blue LEDS in the morning. We still have the circuit on breadboards, but I totally agree with everything you said! Once we have the circuit nailed down (We hope we don't have to wait until the conference), we will probably get a PCB done at PCBExpress.

                              Thanks,
                              Scott and Brent

                              EDIT: Wanted to post a picture of the setup.
                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by txaggie00; 03-11-2011, 08:05 AM. Reason: Add Picture

                              Comment


                              • "Junior" schematic

                                Hey guys,

                                I mentioned in the latest video, that Scott just posted, that I would post a schematic...

                                Here it is!


                                Thanks, Brent
                                Attached Files

                                Comment

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