Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[John_K]

Bedini GT3

Hi Mark P.,

Good work. Do you have an analog ammeter so you can see the needle swing back and forth?

Increasing the RPM will reduce the current draw as the amount of time the timing wheel magnet spends over the hall, so the coil will not be on for as long.

As a test can you hold the rotor so the coil is on whilst you have the ammeter on the input and measure the draw current? Just long enough to get a measurement otherwise things will start heating up. Once you have that disconnect the coil from the circuit and briefly connect it to the battery and ammeter. You should get a similar draw current reading. This will tell you how well the circuit is switching.

Only one of you LEDs is lighting. Have you checked the one that is not is not backwards or faulty? Also which way have you got the Zener connected? Can you post what voltage the cap is dumping at? When running mine at 36V my cap dumps at 42V about 3 times per second. I am using 2 x 6800uF 50V caps in parallel.

I don't have my slave coils done yet as I'm waiting on some wire to wind them with.

Keep playing with the timing, you should be able to get it to self start if you position the rotor about half way between magnets and give it a tap in the opposite direction. As soon as the hall fires it should kick the rotor magnet the other way and slowly come up to speed.

@John B,

Is there any chance that you could post a scope shot across the main coil? I would like to see your square wave and duty cycle. I think I ammmissing something and seeing the waveform will clear up what I think the duty cycle should look like. Thanks.


John K.

John K. and Visse,

I think I addressed both of these today. I put an amp meter on and I am below
one half of a amp all the time now.
I also did try some more cap sizes. The one that
I feel is working the best now is a 25v 2200 uf. The led gets brighter and then
discharges. It does this just over one time per revolution. The battery is charging now for sure.
My RPM is back higher, but I may try to put a small
load on the wheel just to slow it down some more.
Here's a video of the latest cap change.

YouTube - VIDEO0011.3gp

Mark P.

Quote:

I did not test on 24V yet, but could I suggest that you insert an ammeter on the input supply and monitor that while adjusting the hall timing. If the dwell gets too long, meaning the hall is positioned in the middle of the round ceramic, the circuit can easily draw over 1A from 12V and that will heat up the transistors if you leave it like that.
Vissie

[nvisser]

Joules = (C . V^2)/2

I have got a question.
If we charge a cap of 16 000uF up to 42.5V and than discharge it to a 36v battery, how much energy in joules did we pass to the battery?
Keep in mind that the cap only discharges to the same value as the battery voltage.
Vissie

[genessc]

Good question, This is one I'm curious to hear the answer to as well. How is this calculated or measured?

Thanks for asking!

I have got a question.
If we charge a cap of 16 000uF up to 42.5V and than discharge it to a 36v battery, how much energy in joules did we pass to the battery?
Keep in mind that the cap only discharges to the same value as the battery voltage.
Vissie

[gyula]

I have got a question.
If we charge a cap of 16 000uF up to 42.5V and than discharge it to a 36v battery, how much energy in joules did we pass to the battery?
Keep in mind that the cap only discharges to the same value as the battery voltage.
Vissie

I think we have to consider only the voltage difference i.e. 42.5V-36V=6.5V
So the energy taken out from the charged cap is (0.016* 6.5*6.5)/2=0.338J
Much of the energy stays inside the capacitor.

Gyula

[Lidmotor]

John's "Rock Battey"

@ John B. & All
I just had to try making one of those iron pyrite batteries and it worked. Thanks John for sharing it with us. Thanks Cody for the Lowes source of calcium chloride. I found the rock at a local gem store and I already had the magnesium ribbon on hand. This battery was pretty strong and ran my little reed switch pulse motor easily.
I know that this subject is a little off topic for this thread but I didn't know where else to put this. Maybe you guys can figure out a way to run your device off a giant one of these.

Here is the video of the rock battery working:

YouTube - ROCK BATTERY by John Bedini.ASF

Lidmotor

[woopy]

Wow wow wow

thanks John and Lidmotor

really fantastic

Thank you so much !

Will try it as soon as i get some pirite cristal

and good luck at all

Laurent

[mk1]

@all

I watched a video made by John Bedini , please watch it too !

YouTube - Nathan Stubblefield / Edward Leedskalnin Iron coil Monopole Motor.

Ok the important part is that a iron coil wound in the same way as a copper coil will exhibit opposite polarity .

If both coil setup are the same , the North and South of the magnet will be at the opposite end .

Now why is this important , lets say you make a bifillar copper and iron and pulse the copper coil the emf induced in the second coil usually is in the opposite direction but not with iron , the induced field will be going in the same direction as the current , this would suggest that using a bifillar copper coil would need to be either both coil wound in opposite direction or swapping polarity on on coil .


Now why would i write all that , well this is a highway system each wire there own respective side , what happen you use the pair as a secondary ?

But i see it more as a blood system veins and arteries are the same each have there own direction , emptying the cap and filling it back up at the same time .

Also the iron/copper pair theoretically should cancel each other , but the NS coil works , there is something there we can not see ,but it still is there !

That would really explain Leedskalnin suction effect , like to spring stuck together ...

Mark

[chuck H]

6pole iron wire air battery

Hi everybody. I have this video you all may want to look at. John B. and I have been at it again using his new scope. This video is the iron wire air battery that John made. RPM is at 464 RPM. Spikes are at 5volts. I know this is the wrong place for this but it is the only place I am active at this point.


YouTube - 6 pole monopole/iron wire air battery

[alexandre]

John Bedini, you might find this useful. It's a windows software that automatically catalogs your hard drives and media. You can generate a single catalog file for all your drives.

Best,
Alex

I will see if or where my lab notes are on this. I must search through 10 different outboard drives.

[BrentA929]

Negative Switching

Hello All,

While Scott and I wait for our reels to come in (hopefully tomorrow) I have been working on getting the circuitry together and was curious if anyone is trying to piece together the cap switching based on the components JB recently has given us.

Unfortunately I have no idea, nor the knowledge to figure it out!!!

Anyone have any input?


Thanks, Brent


**Attached is the schematic that I think we all have and are currently testing. I have added the components on the sheet that JB suggested.

The way to do it is with an IRF 260 an opto coupler and voltage regulator and 10K resistor.
JB

[minoly]

calcium chloride

we put up our vid last night using a magnesium fire starter (a la LM) and copper coil - toward the end of the vid we add the calcium chloride (direct from the lab at the university so it's pure):
YouTube - min2oly's Channel

we also thought it would be pretty cool to put up a live web cam:
Watch min2oly's Free Webcam and Find Other Webcams Near You
not to prove anything, just thought it would be cool for all of us to watch and see when and if we have to add water, or more CC or if the magnesium gets tarnished so that it is not usable etc... it's been running since 6pm 1/25/2011 Seattle time.
just having fun w/ this,
P'n'S

[wrench76]

Nice motor Minoly
@ all, I know of a great source for magnesium, Your local motorcycle shop! I have been a motorcycle technician for many years, most newer bikes use magnesium side covers.Stator (magneto) covers are the best, they stick out just enough so when they crash they almost always get scrapped or cracked. The shop replaces the cover and the old one is junk to them. Any cover that is made of magnesium must have it stated on it somewhere(possibly just an M, or the whole word) I have attached a picture of on I put together a while ago,it supplies about 1.35v and powered a joulethief for months. It's just the cover filled half way with dirt, then a sheet of copper,then more dirt. simple.


Brian

[Web000x]

I think we have to consider only the voltage difference i.e. 42.5V-36V=6.5V
So the energy taken out from the charged cap is (0.016* 6.5*6.5)/2=0.338J
Much of the energy stays inside the capacitor.

Gyula

Would we not have to take the differences in the energy since the energy storage is not linear?

I have noticed that while watching the voltage on my capacitors with a scope or a multimeter that they always charge to the next step in voltage approximately the same. What I mean is 1-5 volts happens very quickly, 5-10 volts happens quick, 10-15 volts is just a little slower, 15-20 volts is even slower that that, and so forth. This can be attributed to the equation CapVoltage=Sourcevoltage*(1-e^-t/RC).

While watching the cap dumps on any of my Bedini variations, the cap dumps and it recharges to dump again. While it recharges, the time that it takes to go from 12v to 20v is the same as it would have been if I had charged it from 0v and started timing as soon as it got to 12v and let it charge to 20v.

This non linear condition suggests to me that we need to take the differences in the result of the capacitor's energy storage equation which is E=.5*C*V^2.

For John Bedini's capacitor, it would be (.5*.016*42^2) - (.5*.016*36^2) = Capacitor Energy. This equates to approx. 14.1 Joules - 3.7 Joules = 10.4 Joules per capacitor dump.

Hope this helps,

Dave

[minoly]

Nice motor Minoly
I know of a great source for magnesium, Your local motorcycle shop! I have been a motorcycle technician for many years, most newer bikes use magnesium side covers.Stator (magneto) covers are the best, they stick out just enough so when they crash they almost always get scrapped or cracked. The shop replaces the cover and the old one is junk to them. Any cover that is made of magnesium must have it stated on it somewhere(possibly just an M, or the whole word) I have attached a picture of on I put together a while ago,it supplies about 1.35v and powered a joulethief for months. It's just the cover filled half way with dirt, then a sheet of copper,then more dirt. simple.


Brian

Very nice
I know where I'm headed in the next week...
in that month that you had it hooked up, was there any tarnishing? where you able to scrape it of and keep going?
we had this one buried for 7 months, it would work real well for a couple of weeks then we would have to scrape it off again.
we're hoping the CCH will help out.
thanks again for the tip.
Patrick

[Rl2003]

Hi Mark P.,

Good work. Do you have an analog ammeter so you can see the needle swing back and forth?

Increasing the RPM will reduce the current draw as the amount of time the timing wheel magnet spends over the hall, so the coil will not be on for as long.

As a test can you hold the rotor so the coil is on whilst you have the ammeter on the input and measure the draw current? Just long enough to get a measurement otherwise things will start heating up. Once you have that disconnect the coil from the circuit and briefly connect it to the battery and ammeter. You should get a similar draw current reading. This will tell you how well the circuit is switching.

Only one of you LEDs is lighting. Have you checked the one that is not is not backwards or faulty? Also which way have you got the Zener connected? Can you post what voltage the cap is dumping at? When running mine at 36V my cap dumps at 42V about 3 times per second. I am using 2 x 6800uF 50V caps in parallel.

I don't have my slave coils done yet as I'm waiting on some wire to wind them with.

Keep playing with the timing, you should be able to get it to self start if you position the rotor about half way between magnets and give it a tap in the opposite direction. As soon as the hall fires it should kick the rotor magnet the other way and slowly come up to speed.

@John B,

Is there any chance that you could post a scope shot across the main coil? I would like to see your square wave and duty cycle. I think I ammmissing something and seeing the waveform will clear up what I think the duty cycle should look like. Thanks.


John K.

John K. and all,
I made another short video to show you the amp draw and a scope shot.
I am not sure why it looks like it does, maybe the SCR is not turning off
completely. It was able to push the wheel in the reverse direction a little
and then it self starts.

Both led are lit now, I think one may have been shorted out. It's working
now and I didn't do anythink special to it.
Also the transistors are just barely warm to the touch.

YouTube - VIDEO0012.3gp

Self starting video, well almost. I had to give it a little reverse push.
I believe if I went to 24 or 36 volts it will start on it's own.

YouTube - VIDEO0014.3gp

And last another interesting note about this set up. Check the video.

YouTube - VIDEO0015.3gp

Mark P.