Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[BrentA929]

Confused

John K and RS,

Ok, now I'm really confused.

The MJE2955 (PNP) is what we have tried and it was still reversed. What else could cause that? Bad transistor maybe!

Thanks, Brent

[RS_]

ED.

Add the 22ohm matched resistors, from the base of each MJL21193 to the 470ohm and 220ohm connection, and from each MJL21194 base to MJE2955 collector and 470ohm connection, as shown on John K. 's posted SCH

I don't know about using the single diode vs a bridge, as i have always used the bridge as shown in the patent, this is John K's development.....

RS

[RS_]

Make certain that you have the face of the hall, facing the magnets, make certain what face the magnets have out, With all N 's out, and a small super pole S field squeezing out inbetween the N out magnets, will trigger the Hall just the same as all south pole magnets out, but acting inverse of the S out magnets

[Ecancanvas]

Thanks

Thanks RS
Making up a PCB board for Multi MJL's almost sent it off. Will make R changes

ED

[Les_K]

Les,

Yes, a single strand per transistor SSG, up to 48 strands on my big machine.....

But the Idea of using a Base current divider network is the same, if it's a tranny per strand, or several trannys in parallel hooked directly to several parallel strands, as to keeping one of the tranny bases from hogging all the base current

The difference that JB indicates as i understand it, is that the 1 strand per tranny setup, will pull far more current, than having several trannys in parallel, hooked directly to several parallel strands setup, for an equal number of strands / trannys.

RS

Thanks RS,
Just wanted to be sure about the differences between the master/slave and the Bedini/Cole. I made three filer three coil units but that is as far as I have gone with the SG.

And that last part was a big key. you would certainly think it was just the opposite.

Les

[Rl2003]

Moving along

Brent/Scott
I was looking at your schematic, it looks like you are using all four srands
of wire from the master coil?? Or are those the slaves and it just not noted?
If so why??

Other wise your set up is looking great and coming along nice!!


All,
I have only been able to get this to run as low as 256 ma and still
charge the cap and dump. I am ready to set it up to back pop the primary battery
but not sure of the exact time to do that. Should I hit it right before, the hall switches on
or, right after it switches off. I have it set to fire as the rotor magnet is half the distance
past the main coils core. This seems to give the best bang for the ma's used.

I also have the Fet switch ready to test, but also wanted to know if I could use just
the single diode and not the FWBR??
Any thoughts on these questions???

Mark

Hey guys,

I mentioned in the latest video, that Scott just posted, that I would post a schematic...

Here it is!


Thanks, Brent

[BrentA929]

Bedini GT3 "Junior"

Mark,

Thanks so much!

The schematic that I posted is just of the center coil since we have still yet to finish the slave coils. Hope to have those done next week. The 4 windings on the schematic just represents the center coil. I will update as we go.


Thanks, Brent

Brent/Scott
I was looking at your schematic, it looks like you are using all four srands
of wire from the master coil?? Or are those the slaves and it just not noted?
If so why??

Other wise your set up is looking great and coming along nice!!


Mark

[txaggie00]

Brent/Scott
I was looking at your schematic, it looks like you are using all four srands
of wire from the master coil?? Or are those the slaves and it just not noted?
If so why??

@Mark, you are correct. The schematic is only showing the main coil with all four strands in parallel. When we get the slaves done, they will be added to the schematic exactly like the main coil. All six strands will be paralleled.

EDIT: Sorry for the duplicate, I just saw that Brent posted while I was writing this!

@All, the magnets on the timing wheel are all south facing out. Today, we tried John K suggestions. We replaced the 12V zener to the hall with a 15V zener and used the MJE2955 for the hall transistor. We also replaced the full bridge with an 8A 100V Shottky, although different p/n, and used a 5.1V zener on the cap dump and replaced the LED's with 10mm super bright blue LED's. Our results were the same on the hall transistor: the MJE2955 still got warm, and the 93's and 94's were cold. The cap was dumping ~12V (5.1V zener + 3.4 LED + 3.4 LED). It was dumping about once every 4 seconds or so, but our rpm's dropped to about 18. As far as the cap dump circuit goes, what ever voltage value that is added up between the zener and LED's is the voltage that gets dumped from the cap. We didn't notice much of a difference between the bridge and the Shottky, although it was much nicer to stick two small leads into the breadboard than the 4 thick leads from the bridge ! I'm not saying it wasn't better, just that I am not savvy enough to have noticed.

Everyday is progress and we're hoping with the help of RS this weekend, we can get some more answers/results to share with everyone!

Hope everyone has a great weekend!

Scott

[John_K]

Oops!

Hi All,

Vissie has pointed out an error in the schematic I posted. The zener and LEDs on the cap dump section were backwards.

Attached is an updated version.

Sorry, I don't have the circuit wired up at the moment so I don't have a reference. I think I just played with the orientation of the parts until I got it to work.


John K.

[Rl2003]

John K.

This is the way my circuit has been for a while. Someone a while back, I don't
remember who, suggested that the LED's be turned around.
I recently changed my SCR to a lower voltage(200v) from a 800v SCR and that helped the charge end alot.
I also made a new timing wheel for the optical switch with .0625 slots to fire the
transistor. I have been able to lower the amp draw a little over 100 ma's.
As far as the cap dump, I just try different sized caps till I got the ones that perform
the best.
Also nothing in my circuit is getting hot any more, Just slightly warm to the touch.

Mark

Hi All,

Vissie has pointed out an error in the schematic I posted. The zener and LEDs on the cap dump section were backwards.

Attached is an updated version.

Sorry, I don't have the circuit wired up at the moment so I don't have a reference. I think I just played with the orientation of the parts until I got it to work.


John K.

[Les_K]

@Mark, you are correct. The schematic is only showing the main coil with all four strands in parallel. When we get the slaves done, they will be added to the schematic exactly like the main coil. All six strands will be paralleled.

EDIT: Sorry for the duplicate, I just saw that Brent posted while I was writing this!

@All, the magnets on the timing wheel are all south facing out. Today, we tried John K suggestions. We replaced the 12V zener to the hall with a 15V zener and used the MJE2955 for the hall transistor. We also replaced the full bridge with an 8A 100V Shottky, although different p/n, and used a 5.1V zener on the cap dump and replaced the LED's with 10mm super bright blue LED's. Our results were the same on the hall transistor: the MJE2955 still got warm, and the 93's and 94's were cold. The cap was dumping ~12V (5.1V zener + 3.4 LED + 3.4 LED). It was dumping about once every 4 seconds or so, but our rpm's dropped to about 18. As far as the cap dump circuit goes, what ever voltage value that is added up between the zener and LED's is the voltage that gets dumped from the cap. We didn't notice much of a difference between the bridge and the Shottky, although it was much nicer to stick two small leads into the breadboard than the 4 thick leads from the bridge ! I'm not saying it wasn't better, just that I am not savvy enough to have noticed.

Everyday is progress and we're hoping with the help of RS this weekend, we can get some more answers/results to share with everyone!

Hope everyone has a great weekend!

Scott

Just a note Scott,
When I added my outer coils the cap charging increased dramatically.
also they will effect RPM's. I got them close with the 1/8" and 1/4" then adjusted them until I felt the strongest pulse. very minute adjustments here make a big difference in my machine. the pulse is not so much hearing as feeling. but when you get it right you will see a difference on the cap. I loaded mine with some tree lights to test with(Dind't want to blow a big cap like that while playing) and when I added the two outside coils the lights went super brite and poof!

Les

[iankoglin]

Mark,

Thanks so much!

The schematic that I posted is just of the center coil since we have still yet to finish the slave coils. Hope to have those done next week. The 4 windings on the schematic just represents the center coil. I will update as we go.


Thanks, Brent

G'Day Brent and Scott
Good to see you both getting things done so far great job.

I have found a source in China that will supply me the wire I need in the lengths I need for the 3 main coils.usd1031.16 + delivery

usd1231.16 incl. usd200 by sea
usd1701.16 incl. usd670 by SAL
usd2431.16 incl. usd1400 by EMS

or I can buy on separate spool more than enough to make these 3 spools and probably enough to make the rest of the coils in Australia for AUD1800.00 I think I will opt for the local one. I just have to find a way to measure the length and spool it on separate spools to the lengths I need.

I noticed on your schematic that you use a 36v zener could you tell me why you did not use a 72v as JB said if I remember correctly to dump twice the voltage as the battery.

Regards Kogs

[Ecancanvas]

zener dump

Hi Kogs,
The zener, 2 LED, SCR and the charge battery bank have to be put into the formula. the zener 36v (2) led 3-4V and SCR .7 and charge battery bank 36-38v have to be added to get your 74v. the set up mentioned should dump around 40v over charge battery.
hope this helps
ed

[txaggie00]

Thanks Les,

We suspected that would happen. We are getting our extra rod in this next week and are anxious to get those slaves done. I think we are going to focus on getting the current circuitry worked out before we add more variables (slaves) to the mix. Once we get the slaves done, I will probably be picking yours and Mark's brain on the slaves positioning. It is still unclear to me how JB has his set up. On one thread we said move the center coil to the right 1/2 pole piece and move the right slave to the right 1/8 pole piece. I am assuming that means when the left slave is TDC. In the convention DVD, when he is showing the lady the coils, he says to notice that the left slave coil is closer to the main coil than the right one. So I am a bit confused on this and hoping you guys can shed some light on this.

Thanks,
Scott

Just a note Scott,
When I added my outer coils the cap charging increased dramatically.
also they will effect RPM's. I got them close with the 1/8" and 1/4" then adjusted them until I felt the strongest pulse.

[txaggie00]

Thanks Kogs!

Glad you found some wire. We spent about $1364USD (the wire was 3/4 the cost of our build!) on our wire and were able to pick it up so we didn't incur any shipping cost. If it is any help to you, we bought 2 84 lb spools of 15 AWG and 1 48 lb spool of 18 AWG. We can give you the ladies name we spoke to about the reels. Those only cost $6.50 for all three (one 11" and two 5").

G'Day Brent and Scott
Good to see you both getting things done so far great job.

I have found a source in China that will supply me the wire I need in the lengths I need for the 3 main coils.usd1031.16 + delivery

We made the mistake of putting a 72V zener in there with the same thought as you and when we notice our cap at 112V, we quickly turned it off and threw that zener away! When we turn the machine on, the cap shows the voltage of our charging batteries and then charges up to the voltage of zener, LED, and SCR combined voltage plus the voltage of the charging batteries like ED mentioned and then dumps. So if our charging batteries are at 36V and we are using a 5.1V zener and two 2.5V LED's, the cap will charge up to ~47V and then dump 11V into the charging batteries. It works exactly like ED said.

Thanks,
Scott

I noticed on your schematic that you use a 36v zener could you tell me why you did not use a 72v as JB said if I remember correctly to dump twice the voltage as the battery.