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  • Box

    John B,

    Very NICE!!!

    Just so you know, I am not here questioning the truth of what you say about your lifes work, I am merely trying to better my understanding. I get the impression that you think we don't belive you. It is that you are light years ahead of most of us. Doing my best to try and keep up!


    Many thanks, Brent



    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    Brent,
    Ok here is what is in the box just as I told you.
    http://www.johnbedini.net/john34/thebox.wmv

    Anything else here?. As I said your machine should work with a number of variations. You just need to stop looking at things one way as if this thing came out of some text book. Back to my Crystal Batteries Now
    John

    Comment


    • Double pulse

      Thanks John,

      I know this is not about "whats in the box", but I started the mini wheel up the
      other day and since I made a few small adjustments. I picked up this scope shot
      while I was slowing down the wheel with my finger, and am not sure as to what
      is happening. Looks like two, pulses. I did put slightly large neo's behind the
      ceramic's than the ones I had in there.
      Also there is no sound.. don't know what is going on. But if any one can shed
      some light on this, thanks.
      That's a 63V 22000uf cap and the input was at 30 v and .23 amps.
      You can see how fast the cap is dumping.
      Mark P.

      Here is the video.
      Double pulse?? - YouTube

      Comment


      • ssr

        im still learning this format

        http://www.hongfa.com/pro/pdf/HFS33_en.pdf
        two pics
        Douglas Randall Solid State Relay Model D12A 3-32 vdc input 120-v 12 amp cont. | eBay
        so give me some time to learn all the tricks
        guy b
        Attached Files
        Last edited by aguy; 02-24-2012, 10:10 AM.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
          Brent,
          I'm talking about making a solid state relay for the switching.
          The Fet would get around the problems with the SCR.Mathew Jones shows the circuit a few pages back, but that solid state relay is costly so we could make that with the opto and the regulator for the gate voltage and the resistor to pull the gate off. The way around his circuit for timing is a SIDAC at 40 to 60 volts to fire the opto when the capacitor reaches the correct voltage. that is the switch I'm working on. NTE makes that part NTE6415. The higher the voltage the better, then the battery will charge fast that is what we want. Capacitor dump circuits must be double in voltage or very close to it.

          John B
          John,
          So when you use the term costly, did you mean energy-wise or $$-wise? At the time I assumed $$'s
          Is this why you pursued the comparator?



          Thanks,
          Patrick

          Comment


          • It's all in the t...t..t.timing

            I did an experiment to show the timing of the coil discharge pulse by using John's method of an LED over the coil and reflective marlings on the rotor magnets.

            What I found was that when I tuned the 10 coiler so that the coil discharged exactly half way in between the rotor magnets, the wheel sped up. But if the coil discharge pulse was either side of the half way mark the wheel would slow down.

            I believe the reason why the rotor speeds up is because when the coil discharges and the poles flip, the scalar South is being repelled by the normal South on the top of the coil. This also "sucks in" the next oncoming North magnet.

            This is also why John has such a long duty cycle (50% IIRC) on the Ferris Wheel. We want to take advantage of the scalar South.

            Ring the bell twice!


            John K.
            http://teslagenx.com

            Comment


            • Video

              Here's a video: Bedini Monopole SSG Timing - YouTube


              John K.
              http://teslagenx.com

              Comment


              • Why 48V?

                John B,

                Because there was so much confusion on this topic (capacitor discharge voltage) I would like to ask a question...

                Why did you choose discharging the capacitor at 48V vs. 72V? Is it because you were trying to achieve a certain frequency? Or is there more to it?

                I get that a battery is fully charged at the 15.5 to 16V range. Peter L. did a great job in describing that at the last conference.


                Thanks, Brent


                Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
                Brent,
                Remember what I said about the capacitor, it's rated at 65 volts 75 volts max serge so you can not wait for it to reach that voltage as the switch breaks down before that, But look in the box. The high voltage destroys that cap 72 volts would be double and that is too much for the switch at that current of 5.2 amps which is 374.4 watts. The machine was only using 1.5 amps at 36 volts or 54 watts Did you not watch the meters at the conference. When the meters were pegged after running the current was down on the secondary batteries to 3.3 amps at 48 volts or 158.4 watts float. and that makes the batteries standing at 16 volts

                But your correct about doubling the voltage for a battery. So why would you have gray hair over this as that is where the machine was running. I ran this machine two times and it was at the same power level both times. This is what I have in my notes on this machine. I would have liked to have double the voltage as I have always said, not with that switch. You only need to be two to three volts over the battery to charge them but you really want to push them to 15.5 to 16 volts max or the power is just being wasted in heat in the battery. Even Ricks SG 30 coiler was only pushing the batteries to 16 volts. John K even turned it down to not over boil the batteries.
                But just look in the box and you will see, go get your hair dyed your wife will love you as a new man.
                Damn I should have opened the box for John K when you were here.

                John

                Comment


                • 48V Cap Dump

                  Brent,

                  The 48V level of the cap seems to be where the opto coupler FET in the box breaksdown and dumps the negative spike to the battery. I don't think the 48V was picked as much as thats what it turned to be.

                  Ron

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by John_K View Post
                    Here's a video: Bedini Monopole SSG Timing - YouTube


                    John K.
                    John K,

                    Great video, thanks for sharing it. Have you had a chance to correlate the timing shown to charging rate?

                    Ron

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Ron Chase View Post
                      Brent,

                      The 48V level of the cap seems to be where the opto coupler FET in the box breaksdown and dumps the negative spike to the battery. I don't think the 48V was picked as much as thats what it turned to be.

                      Ron
                      we can only speculate at this point. my 2 cents... John B has many ways of making that cap dump, when and where ever he chooses depending on the circumstances and desired outcome. I think he chose that device based on his requirements at the time.

                      That being said, he spent another few more months before settling on the comparator, why? He's always tweaking, making things work better. So there are many other ways to make it work. Look what he ended up having to do to make the smaller builds work. We're here to learn rather than follow a recipe right?

                      I've thought long and hard on this, otherwise, since it is such a simple device why not show it from the get-go.
                      sincerely,
                      Patrick

                      Comment


                      • 48V dump

                        Ron,

                        You may be right, but I have a hard time believing that JB didn't pick 48V for some specific reason. There was some thought behind it! Just curious what it is...


                        Best Regards, Brent


                        Originally posted by Ron Chase View Post
                        Brent,

                        The 48V level of the cap seems to be where the opto coupler FET in the box breaksdown and dumps the negative spike to the battery. I don't think the 48V was picked as much as thats what it turned to be.

                        Ron

                        Comment


                        • @ All

                          @ All,
                          Thanks John K for posting that information as that is very important in the operation of the machine.
                          Not only the SG but the Ferris Wheel. The Ferris Wheel is more of a motor then the SG. The reason why is because of the switching.
                          @ Minoly,
                          The machine was Costly to build as it was a pro-type. The Comparator I always had and I did not want to use it, as the DC fet switch did what I wanted it to do.

                          @ Brent,
                          I used that DC switch because it was in the range to charge the batteries without over charging.
                          You guys are going to have to pick a DC switch that works with your batteries, because these DC switches do not all work the same. That is why I said a sidac, Low voltage should be chosen to fire the switch. If you watched the output meter you could see it discharging after each pulse as John K has point out to you. When I showed the wheel starting on it's own and where it stopped was the point the DC switch discharges. Then the wheel goes in the clockwise direction for running. In Other Words the wheel starts in reverse then slams agents the magnetic field and stops then it goes forward. After that every time a magnet passes the pole you get a discharge to the secondary batteries.
                          The important thing is the timing between the poles the motor part must be completely off , not one bit of leakage on that switch.
                          John B
                          John Bedini
                          www.johnbedini.net

                          Comment


                          • @ All Too

                            @Brent,
                            The reason for 48v? John already said that is what 3 x 16v is. He also said it prevents the batteries from over-charging. It is a potential switch that will not work once the batteries are fully charged. No point running the machine after that as it is just wasting the energy.

                            @Ron,
                            The batteries are charging at the rate they want to charge without current. I don't want to push them with current. Note that the electrolyte tempearture is lower in the charge battery than the primary battery - cold charging. With the SG circuit the RPM will regulate according to the impedance of the charge battery - self regulating impedance matching machine like John has always said.

                            @Patrick,
                            Yes, the comparator would work, but would be harder to do with one wire as the 741 requires a stable reference voltage so you need voltage regulators and a bunch of components to make it work. And why do all that when John has now shown you can do it with one device?

                            @All,
                            The machine is basically a very efficient motor (54W to turn a 13' wheel!) that also recovers all of the energy that is normally wasted into another battery. The modified Bedini/Cole circuit gives a lot of torque for not much energy because there is no drag. The hub section also keeps the primary charged. It needs to be looked at very simply, there are no physics laws being broken here and no voodoo to look for.

                            Once you have the circuits built properly you just adjust the timing like you would a car. The timing is very important as John says. Once you have that, you just walk away and figure out what you're going to do with the all the energy - electrical and mechanical.


                            John K.
                            http://teslagenx.com

                            Comment


                            • Great Week

                              John K,

                              Great summation! Its been an excellant week on this thread. Have a great weekend and thanks for the explanations.

                              Ron

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by John_K View Post
                                @Brent,


                                @Patrick,
                                Yes, the comparator would work, but would be harder to do with one wire as the 741 requires a stable reference voltage so you need voltage regulators and a bunch of components to make it work. And why do all that when John has now shown you can do it with one device?




                                John K.
                                My bad, I thought John B. is advocating not to use the relay, but to use the comparator or some other method that is not as costly?

                                My solution works nicely, the only draw back is the 2nd tranny heats up something fierce, maybe put a big heat sink on it and warm the house while I'm at it LOL.
                                so is it a k08a relay?

                                Thanks,
                                Patrick

                                Comment

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