Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[Ron Chase]

Ok, thats what ya call simple! Good idea with the neon.

Yes, I have been reviewing the stuff on ED as well. The thing about Dadhav's little ssg is that it had an enclosed magnetic path with the bell housing around the stator the the mags were attached to. The way I see it right now is that I would like to take the motor function out of the SSG and keep the rest. That would make it the perfect generator for this. I have been playing with covering the coils with tin cans to see what that would do as well. ED said we are loosing half our magnets so we need to cover the coils. then you get all the magnets. DadHav showed he could get a spike but it was a bit anemic. The way I see it right now is that you would have to go with non-litzed SSG to make use of the mag-amp effect coming from the trigger winding and would also have to beef up the winding to generate a little power for the switch. the light bulb would need to be replaced with a proper inductor to phase shift the pulse a bit. I don't know but maybe that is a place to start.

Les

Thats a good start. I will also try covering coils with a metallic sleeve as Ed L. showed (soft iron, I think would be best). My SSG has one coil with seven power windings and one trigger wire all non-litzed so it will be a good coil to experiment with as a generator.

At this point, I'm convinced that for maximum battery charge from the Ferris Wheel (and best tuning) there needs to be a generator load on the shaft that feeds energy into the dump cap along with the energy from the master and slave coils. The ideal of course is the re-gauging motor in generator mode but until rsources allow, I will have to use as efficient a generator as I can build.

Right now I need help in tuning my wheel for optimum performance without additional energy coming from a generator. I only get 1:1 so there must be some fine adjustment of coil position, magnetic shield angle, etc. that I need to pursue. Any help will be greatly apprciated.

Ron

[Les_K]

Thats a good start. I will also try covering coils with a metallic sleeve as Ed L. showed (soft iron, I think would be best). My SSG has one coil with seven power windings and one trigger wire all non-litzed so it will be a good coil to experiment with as a generator.

At this point, I'm convinced that for maximum battery charge from the Ferris Wheel (and best tuning) there needs to be a generator load on the shaft that feeds energy into the dump cap along with the energy from the master and slave coils. The ideal of course is the re-gauging motor in generator mode but until rsources allow, I will have to use as efficient a generator as I can build.

Right now I need help in tuning my wheel for optimum performance without additional energy coming from a generator. I only get 1:1 so there must be some fine adjustment of coil position, magnetic shield angle, etc. that I need to pursue. Any help will be greatly apprciated.

Ron

yours is doing quite a bit better than mine. so far I am no where near 1:1 On this new build.
I got my Fet's in and man that made a ton of difference. Got the circuit fairly well tuned in as well. Unlike the solid state stuff, I am seeing only a small surface charge and getting real juice.

I am wondering about some of the tuning as well. ED had all those chains collecting magnets and I think that was what all the jars were hanging around as well. Iron wire to get more magnets. I also never realized that the PMH is a stream splitter. I see the vortex or torsion fields just like the Hamel spinner. I think these are the streams being split and rotating counter clockwise to the rotation of the wheel both front and back. As I understand it this is why in ED's picture showed the chains kinda bunched and reaching towards the handle he was turning. It was pulling in all those extra magnets. If I could find some small iron chain to hang around the room I wonder what that would do?

Les

[Ron Chase]

yours is doing quite a bit better than mine. so far I am no where near 1:1 On this new build.
I got my Fet's in and man that made a ton of difference. Got the circuit fairly well tuned in as well. Unlike the solid state stuff, I am seeing only a small surface charge and getting real juice.

I am wondering about some of the tuning as well. ED had all those chains collecting magnets and I think that was what all the jars were hanging around as well. Iron wire to get more magnets. I also never realized that the PMH is a stream splitter. I see the vortex or torsion fields just like the Hamel spinner. I think these are the streams being split and rotating counter clockwise to the rotation of the wheel both front and back. As I understand it this is why in ED's picture showed the chains kinda bunched and reaching towards the handle he was turning. It was pulling in all those extra magnets. If I could find some small iron chain to hang around the room I wonder what that would do?

Les

Les,

Excellent! What circuit are you using and what is your cap dump rate?

Awhile back there was talk of using an air coil for tuning that some saw at the last conference. Anyone know how that works?

Watch out for those chains they might start moving around. I'll try to find some iron chain also.

Ron

[Les_K]

Les,

Excellent! What circuit are you using and what is your cap dump rate?

Awhile back there was talk of using an air coil for tuning that some saw at the last conference. Anyone know how that works?

Watch out for those chains they might start moving around. I'll try to find some iron chain also.

Ron

I am using the one I came up with. It dumps about 1 pulse per second. Well, it did.
The Bridge just went out for some reason. Very weird. no smole no smell no nothing. Just quit passing power to the cap. I was looking at it because I realized I may not have the right impedance match between the cap and coil. If that is not right then it won't perform either. I am pretty sure that is my last hurdle to start getting into any real fine tuning.

looks like I am down for a while as I am all out of anything big enough for it. That's not an area to play with either. the power right there coming out of those coils can be very dangerous.

Les

[Les_K]

Time to run

John, Is it time? are we there yet?


Les

@all,
Yes the inductance does change when the magnets pass the pole. The one thing that you can not do in the machine is twist the wires. Now each wire in the main coil has it's own resistance so this is offset a little when it turns on sort of like a mag amp but pulsed DC or more like PWM because of the switching so I had to sit and tune it for maximum power low RPM.

This is a very tedious to do as if I did not get just right I could not self start the machine. No one posted a Video of me showing it at the convention yet but someone out there has it. When I would start it from a dead stop it would accelerate backwards and slam agents three magnetic fields and dead stop then leap forward right up to 16RPM's that is how I knew I had the timing right. You all have done excellent work on this group. But now I'm going to do something I always wanted to do with a new machine just like this we must make it run with no input. Great group glad I could be here.
John B

[Les_K]

Just an update...

Just wanted to show some of the timing I have for the little wheel.

John K,
Did you ever finish your experiments with the Mag-Amp? I built the bipolar switch JB has posted on his site with the 3lb rotor.
http://www.icehouse.net/john1/mot1.jpg
I used a hall switch and tried several different coils that had one extra strand to add a small dc current. I also tested with just a resistor across the strand. and in one test I had one strand with Iron wire the rest copper. I never tried a coil with all Iron though.
The last test is still running, I made a four strand coil similar to the ferris wheel center coil.
then encased it in a tin can, (A magnet would stick to the can so there must be some iron in there...) and have been running for weeks now. but the batteries have gone kinda weird. Anyway just wanted to know if you had anything interesting happen?

Thanks
Les

[Les_K]

Right now, my figures show...

61ohms for the Main Base Coil and
30.5ohms for the conjugate asymmetrical side coils.
This will equal the 12.2 ohm total in parallel.

The side coils are opposed pulsing a weaker south pole to create attraction, while the Main center coil is creating a huge repulsed north field when switch goes on. Very interesting non-linear arrangement to say the least. I do know there is more to learn here.
POST #20
At this point I see the half bipolar bedini/cole circuit as the switch across conjugate coils in parallel. The switch sees this as a resistive load and non-inductive when on, but yet you are able to collect the collapsing magnet reactive impulse after disengaged.

I was looking at your Adams motor arrangement. Using the concept of your half bipolar bedini/cole circuit, I made some slight adjustments. Again, I am only learning here, but I see this as a method for switching the non-linear fields. Schematic parts will of course change accordingly.

We are all very inspired to test and learn here. Thank you so much!

Jeremy Burnum

Yes I see that, Thank you is this where you got the information?

John K.
Wow! I found it! post 807 sorry it took so long but I am reading with all new eyes!
Read my posts and feel like a dumb A.......
Man John B. has given us so much! So very much!

I am just now understanding. JB asked; press two north poles together. What is charging the battery? Man what an eye opener! I now understand it really is a lifetime of research!
JB answered his own question on the page with post 807! I am definitely wearing different Glasses today....

Les

[minoly]

John K.
Wow! I found it! post 807 sorry it took so long but I am reading with all new eyes!

Les

I always wondered about that post. it never read to me as though John B. wrote it. and it is not signed by John B. I've heard John refer to himself in the 3rd person before - except he uses the name John. in this post he refers to himself in the 3rd person as "you"
and the ohms are different than what he posts elsewhere, and he does not seem so sure of things, and he thanks himself and signs Jeremy Burnum????
I think I assumed at the time, that someone else hopped on his computer the way Rick has done in the past.
so I discarded the post as I did not know what was what....

It would be nice to know what was what with that post.

Patrick

[John_K]

I agree, JB did not write that. Jeremy was involved in this thread early on.

Sorry to rain on your parade Les.


John K.

I always wondered about that post. it never read to me as though John B. wrote it. and it is not signed by John B. I've heard John refer to himself in the 3rd person before - except he uses the name John. in this post he refers to himself in the 3rd person as "you"
and the ohms are different than what he posts elsewhere, and he does not seem so sure of things, and he thanks himself and signs Jeremy Burnum????
I think I assumed at the time, that someone else hopped on his computer the way Rick has done in the past.
so I discarded the post as I did not know what was what....

It would be nice to know what was what with that post.

Patrick

[John_K]

Les,

I don't remember but it doesn't matter. What matters is that JB said it was "like" a mag-amp, not actually one.

IMO, the offest coils are just pre-biasing the main coil - "like" a mag-amp.


John K.

John K,
Did you ever finish your experiments with the Mag-Amp?
Thanks Les

[Les_K]

Les,

I don't remember but it doesn't matter. What matters is that JB said it was "like" a mag-amp, not actually one.

IMO, the offest coils are just pre-biasing the main coil - "like" a mag-amp.


John K.

The post was a response to Jeremy and apparently the quote field did not show up.
Sorry about that, a little later on JB makes it very clear that it is a good experiment for him to try making the outside coils south facing. But JB runs his in repulsion mode.

The mag amp effects are something much more than I have thought. It's not so important to understand to make the machine run because if you have the impedances correct then it takes care of it all itself, yes "like a mag Amp". But having an understanding of what is going on is worth gold! And that page is full of key information. In fact I had my outside coils wrong. but once I have that fixed I can't wait to use the sniffer on it. Maybe I better get a tricorder.... Science version would probably be better than the medical
the Tricorder project - Science Tricorder Mark 2


Well, I have a lot more study to do. There was a lot of JB's comments on using several strands on one transistor vs a single strand per tranny....

Have a great day!
Les

[Ron Chase]

SSR Cap Dump

Well after all the messing around with different cap dump circuits it turns out that John Bedini's SSR cap dump works the best (for my wheel anyway). Is anyone surprised? He did say it was simple and thats usually the most effective. The cap dumps through the amp meter to the negative pole of the charge battery at each trigger of the coils.

All thats needed now is the re-guaging motor load that inputs its energy into the cap and, I'll be at > 1:1.

Thanks John B for generously sharing all the information on your Ferris Wheel Technical Information DVD and on this forum.

Ron Chase

[nvisser]

Wow! Neat work!
Dumping after each trigger. Not reflecting to the source.

[minoly]

Well after all the messing around with different cap dump circuits it turns out that John Bedini's SSR cap dump works the best (for my wheel anyway). Is anyone surprised? He did say it was simple and thats usually the most effective. The cap dumps through the amp meter to the negative pole of the charge battery at each trigger of the coils.

All thats needed now is the re-guaging motor load that inputs its energy into the cap and, I'll be at > 1:1.

Thanks John B for generously sharing all the information on your Ferris Wheel Technical Information DVD and on this forum.

Ron Chase

Ron,
nice wheel! can we have a vid tour? :-)
are you using this Magnecraft SSR, Mouser part# 528-6312AXXMDS-DC3
and are you using your earlier schematic from here http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post185078 to switch it?
or is it working straight up as John B says with the breakdown voltage?
or some other way?
shouldn't we be over 1:1 w/o the center hub generator?
Thanks,
Patrick

[Ron Chase]

Ron,
nice wheel! can we have a vid tour? :-)
are you using this Magnecraft SSR, Mouser part# 528-6312AXXMDS-DC3
and are you using your earlier schematic from here http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post185078 to switch it?
or is it working straight up as John B says with the breakdown voltage?
or some other way?
shouldn't we be over 1:1 w/o the center hub generator?
Thanks,
Patrick

Thanks Vissey.

Patrick,

I think I will have to get a video camera soon! Any one want to trade a video camera for a 3-pole kit fully assembled and a NS window motor kit also fully assembled?

I've attached a pdf showing the circuit using a Magnecraft 6312XXMDS-DC3 but as I note on the schematic almost any DC load SSR will work. You just need to get the polarity hooked up right. I've tried 2 different SSR's and they both work great and it also works with IRFP260 FET's. It does work just the way John B says but I think you'll be surprised when you hook it up and start looking for large increments of cap dump voltage. I won't spoil it for you right now you'll just have to give it a try. When will your wheel be completed? Its going to be awesome.

Yes, I think we should be > 1:1 with just the monopole coils, thats been proven many times. I have several issues with my wheel not the least being my coils are undersized (to little impedance is not good) so, I will be working to improve its performance.

After looking at the Ferris Wheel technical information DVD about 10 times over the weekend, I've come to realize the important role the re-gauging motor plays when the monopole is running. It provides a load on the shaft to keep the monopole from running wild (huge torque) and at the same time its also putting additional energy into the cap so we can get 2:1 performance or better. One can detune the monopole to run without a load but I'm going for as much charging as possible so it looks like I'll be building a re-gauging motor in the near future.

Ron