Bedini Earth Light

[ibpointless2]

@all
I've taken the big crystal cell and put a couple coats of paint on it so it will be protected from the moisture in the air. I'll have a picture below showing the cell.

The big crystal cell is nothing more than a Crystal glue cell ( Elmer's glue, Epsom salt, and Salt substitute) with a lot of magnesium ribbon wrapped around a copper tube. I then allowed the big cell to dry for a couple days and then I've spray painted it in-order to protect it. I never believed in charging the cells with a battery as it seemed pointless, so i never charged the big crystal cell. Scaling up is key, more surface area is key to power. The big crystal cell is still maintaining its power, but I'm going to allow it to dry some more and then do more readings. If you're going to scale up avoid cup like things or anything that can trap water and take longer to dry, use plates or pipe and any open ended thing.

I'm also testing out an idea that combines the Crystal glue cell and the stove top cell into one. Since those are the two cells that do the best I figure I should combine them.

[b_rads]

The answer to Crystal Cells is the surface Area of the electrodes and parallel operation. When the crystal cells are in series the voltage is more but the impedance is again twice that of one cell. If your not careful the week one will reverse in the string and then it's just like having a load resistor in line. Crystal cells can be made just like Lead Acid batteries but I do not think anybody here has tried that, but it works for more current.
John B

John B,
I did a little research on the construction of the typical 12Volt lead acid battery. I found that each cell is made of multiple plates to increase the amperage. An odd number of plates with positive on each end of the cell and alternating the positive and negative plates. I constructed a penny cell using a vaariation of Ib's "stove top" mixture with 5 copper positive pennies and 4 zinc negative pennies. The cell has just been constructed and no readings have been performed. Is this what you refering to when you indicated that these crystal cells could be constructed like the lead acid battery? See the attached picture.
Much Gratitude for your input,
Brad S

[seth]

@all
I've taken the big crystal cell and put a couple coats of paint on it so it will be protected from the moisture in the air. I'll have a picture below showing the cell.

The big crystal cell is nothing more than a Crystal glue cell ( Elmer's glue, Epsom salt, and Salt substitute) with a lot of magnesium ribbon wrapped around a copper tube. I then allowed the big cell to dry for a couple days and then I've spray painted it in-order to protect it. I never believed in charging the cells with a battery as it seemed pointless, so i never charged the big crystal cell. Scaling up is key, more surface area is key to power. The big crystal cell is still maintaining its power, but I'm going to allow it to dry some more and then do more readings. If you're going to scale up avoid cup like things or anything that can trap water and take longer to dry, use plates or pipe and any open ended thing.

I'm also testing out an idea that combines the Crystal glue cell and the stove top cell into one. Since those are the two cells that do the best I figure I should combine them.


[ATTACH]9275[/ATTACH]

Thanks for answering my questions IB!

Im really impressed you get that output without charging. I managed to get 2.5 V @ 0.5A but only after 5 minutes of charging with 12V - and it dropped down to the mA range within ten minutes. Youve really done well with this battery. Thanks for sharing.

@Brad - thats a lovely looking piece of work - why cant any of my attempts look so neat, tidy and sealed!

[jehdds]

Guys,
Here is the latest for your review.
More to follow.
Interesting Piezo and Mix.mov - YouTube
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[Lidmotor]

3 minute video on how a 12v lead acid is constructed and works

@All
Here is a short and simplistic video on how a common 12v lead acid car battery is made and works. I don't know how exactly we can use the design to make better crystal batteries because they work differently. The multiple plate per cell idea that Brad is trying is perhaps the first step. Making grid type electrode plates might be the next step. Connecting the cells together in series, like shown in this video, is pretty straight forward. Just remember that each cell has to be independent of the others and it only takes one bad cell to cripple the whole battery.

how car batteries work - YouTube

Lidmotor

[radiant1]

our next multi cell

Tomorrow I will get some clay to make a ceramic box with an open top. 2 sides will have slots for plates to slide into. We will have to use alternationg copper and aluminum sheets. The whole cell can be made at one time this way. The salts can be melted in the ceramic box but will not short out the cells. We are going to use the 12kv neon power supply this time to polarise.

For the future we are going to get-
1. silver plated copper sheets
2. Magnessium sheets
3. These Valence 5 elements - borax, bismuth, and antimony.
4. Carbon sheets.

[jehdds]

John,
How is this for a layout for a multi laminate crystal cell? Magnesium electrodes are on the left and the oxidized copper are on the right. This essentially will be a two cell battery. If the polarization per cell is as has been the anticipated voltage will be 3.2 to 4V. Current anticipated will be 5ma to 15ma.
I have pre-oxidized the magnesium as well as oxidized the copper and will melt and reconstitute a Zn0 Epsoms, and perhaps add calcium carbonate. This time I will NOT use glycerine to allow for a desiccation akin to my first cells. Any feedback is WHOLEHEARTEDLY welcome.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[Armagdn03]

Copper oxidizes into two states, Cuprous and Cupric, the first being a red colored semi conductor, and the second being a black colored insulator.

John bedini showed one way to make cuprous copper with heat and borax.
Another way is to create a whole lot of the black cupric oxide and reduce. Reduce this using carbon powder (easily made) to make carbon dioxide and cuprous oxide, the semiconductor.

Reduction of Copper Oxide - YouTube

This can be desolved in Hydrochloric acid (HCl) and used to grow cuprous crystals, which have a cubic structured lattice.

Using an external electric field can orient crystal growth.

[Lidmotor]

Multi plate cells & multi cells

John,
How is this for a layout for a multi laminate crystal cell? Magnesium electrodes are on the left and the oxidized copper are on the right. This essentially will be a two cell battery. If the polarization per cell is as has been the anticipated voltage will be 3.2 to 4V. Current anticipated will be 5ma to 15ma.
I have pre-oxidized the magnesium as well as oxidized the copper and will melt and reconstitute a Zn0 Epsoms, and perhaps add calcium carbonate. This time I will NOT use glycerine to allow for a desiccation akin to my first cells. Any feedback is WHOLEHEARTEDLY welcome.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

I worked with a similar idea today but on a smaller scale. I used 3 magnesium ribbon strips and 3 copper wires strips with just paper as the separators. It was a design test and I just used water with Alum as the electrolyte. I made two 6 element cells and ran tests using an LED oscillator to see if it was going to work. This seems to be a good idea but we have to try it like you are going to do---with the crystal cell design.
I hope that your design works. That looks like a great step in the right direction.

Lidmotor

[b_rads]

Multi-Plate cells

I worked with a similar idea today but on a smaller scale. I used 3 magnesium ribbon strips and 3 copper wires strips with just paper as the separators. It was a design test and I just used water with Alum as the electrolyte. I made two 6 element cells and ran tests using an LED oscillator to see if it was going to work. This seems to be a good idea but we have to try it like you are going to do---with the crystal cell design.
I hope that your design works. That looks like a great step in the right direction.

Lidmotor

The multi-plate idea of building these crystal cells with what we have already learned about with the crystal mixes is very exciting. Jim, your setup looks amazing; I hope you will keep us informed of your results. Lidmotor, you said you tested a concept build, can you tell us your findings? The multi-plate penny cell that I made does seem to support the addition of current in this design. I made a control cell and the nine penny cell. Even though this was not using the best electrode material as we have discovered, the results were positive. I placed the control cell on a penny oscillator; the control cell did kick off the circuit as I could hear it through a radio. I could not see the LED light up and blink. The nine penny cell was placed on the circuit and the LED was visible and I even had a little play with the potentiometer. Voltage on the Control and Nine Penny cell were comparable, the current was higher in the nine penny as observed in the penny circuit. Short term results for me are positive, will the longer duration prove to be positive also, time will tell.

Solar arrays suffer the same issue as multi-cell crystal batteries. Shade or a poor performing solar cell will affect the entire solar array. One way the solar industry has found to overcome this problem is to place micro-inverters on each panel and allow them to operate independently and dump into a central location, thereby utilizing the maximum of the output from each unit in the array. Can the crystal cells be managed independent of each other for maximum output and somehow accumulated on the back end?

Brad S

[John_Bedini]

Crystal Semiconductor Cell

Armagdn03,
Yes this is the correct way to produce semiconductors, also study the black oxide of the heating of copper in an oven. I think you will find that one is a P type and the other is a N device with a Hotpoint method and a volt meter. I have something working very good will put up a YouTube soon after more testing. Thanks. Again the impedance of the cell is the important thing and also the placement and size of the electrode of each. Spacing does matter, this takes allot of work to do.
John B

[jehdds]

New Battery Step 2. Lavender Epsoms, Zn0, Ti02, CaCo3, Galina, Iron Pyrite.
Guys, Cells created, using a tackle box as a enclosure. Next step, melting, and reconstitution with water, polarization and allowing to harden.
Please inform if anyone aside from B Rads is making the Zn0 cells.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[jehdds]

New Battery Step 2. Lavender Epsoms, Zn0, Ti02, CaCo3, Galina, Iron Pyrite.
Guys, Cells created, using a tackle box as a enclosure. Next step, melting, and reconstitution with water, polarization and allowing to harden.
Please inform if anyone aside from B Rads is making the Zn0 cells.
Very Best Regards,
Jim

Here is the pic that did not load the first time. Note volume of starting mix required to fill two spots on the mini tackle box.
I just reduced, reconstituted, filled and polarized. Now we wait for a day or so to dry and we will see what output we have. For now, 1.89 volts per cell 7.2mA.

[jehdds]

Guys,
Here is another little clip.
Load On Crystal Cell - YouTube
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[Lidmotor]

"Spacing does matter"----John Bedini

@John B.
Thanks for making that comment. The small "laminate" cells that I made proved that also. They worked but only as pure water bases cells. You can't just stick the two electrodes together with a thin piece of paper between them. There isn't enough room for the crystalline structure to form. Jim's cell and battery design has a much better chance of working.

I am still very puzzled over why IB's cells are working so well for me. Spacing might one reason. The other idea that I have been mulling over is that perhaps the "stove top" cell is working like an alkaline cell and simple holding a voltage during it's life span. I got this idea from looking at the discharge charts of different AA cells. Perhaps power is being produce through a slowed down chemical process but at a constant level because of the internal impedance. Here again---spacing apart of the electrodes?? What still doesn't make sense are the voltage flucuations that I am seeing. Several people have mentioned that there are probably a number of things going on. Heat, humidity, solar events, moon phases, weather events, ET---all going on while the cell slowly eats itself alive----or not? This may or may not be some sort of "semi-conductor" crystal cell but it is working. I did a "how to" video showing how I make IB's "stove top" cell. I hope for feed back from people to help explain how the thing works.

Making an Ibpointless Stove Top crystal cell.ASF - YouTube

@Brad
The small "element" cells I made worked like you would expect any two AA batteries would----as long as they were wet. When they dried out they went to sleep. They were just made for cell design testing. It was a bad design really for what we are going after here. There needs to be space between the elements for the crystal like John said. How much is the question.

@Jim
Let us know how your "tackle box" battery works out. I hate to say this but your idea of reconstituting the chemicals with water bothers me unless you cook it all down again in an oven. Water can get trapped inside the structure and hang around for a long time ---like what I discovered with the cement batteries. On my last "stove top" cell I added a small amount of zinc oxide and iron pyrite and I could not tell any difference in the performance. That doesn't mean anything because the reaction of the other elements probably just dominate the situation.

Lidmotor