Bedini Earth Light

[ibpointless2]

The big blue cell that I've painted with blue spray paint with 3 heavy coats of paint had me worried. I had a bad rain storm come through and the voltage went up and I feared the worse. I was worried that the cell was getting water from the air and this would be bad because this would make it galvanic. I've put it to the side for a couple days because I fear the cell was nothing now but I finally broke down and performed a simple test. I took a spray bottle and I spray the cell with water. To my surprise the cell voltage started going down the more i sprayed it with water but did stop at a certain point. I can't believe this, this has me more confused then when I started. If the cell went up in voltage than it would be galvanic, if the cell stayed the same than it would not be galvanic, but since it went down I don't know what to call it? Anti-galvanic maybe? This makes me upset because I'm more confused then when I started this whole test. So it wasn't the moisture in the air that caused the cell to increase it voltage when the bad rain/thunderstorm came through. So this just leaves barometric pressure and I have some ideas on how to test that.

[NickZ]

@ Ib2:
I am seeing the same with my table salt brass/aluminum cell. It actually makes water at times, although it is still shrinking and drying out. There have been many big storms here the last month or so, and the cell has not totally dried yet, but it is getting there.
I would not think that what is going on is just galvanics, although that also can be present. It may not be one thing or the other but both, field energies and galvanics. I think that to put the cell under load to see how it holds out, is important, and to seal it hermetically once it is dry.
Low heat oven drying overnight might help. Then dipping them in resin while still warm, and dry. Important to seal around the outside exposed part of the electrodes, also. I know that you painting your cell, but the area around the electrodes also need to be well sealed.
Even the table salt works ok. I still have not added more separate winds on the same cathode, to get a higher voltage, yet, but the voltage levels seam the same. I still don't have a meter to use so I just use an led to test the output.
I have not needed to add any water in the two or more weeks since the "Hot Dog Cell" was made, nor do I see any oxidation either. We have been going through a lot of humid rainy days, so it will take a while to see the results of this type of cell once it finally dries out, it if ever will dry out. If not I'll put it in the oven. So, far it's working, with no need to add water.

[chuck H]

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@ jehdds
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[plengo]

i have about 6 or 7 cells running for over 5 months now. They all need a drop of water to run bright. Every time I add water it gets brighter than before.

Some I opened to see the extend of galvanic corrosion and to my surprise it is very little, very, very little. Some cells works better than other because of the different mix I have been using. I have so far tested 40 different variations of formulas since the one from Hunthchinson with galina to only alum.

I have not done yet the alternative salt because it has been difficult to find the potassium salt alternative in the super markets. To my surprise too I notice there is nothing like the old ClNa salt. Everything today is full of chemicals that none knows (or I did not know it was there).

I have noticed a pattern in all my cells. If you put too much water it will kill the cell until the water evaporates. During the evaporation the voltage goes up together with the current. If it is getting really dry , voltage goes down. Too much water, no good, too little water no good. There is a balance where the cell is very happy.

Also cells that are exposed to air works worse than the ones that are inside a tape container. The cells rolled up with duck tape and aluminum tape ARE THE BEST. They seem the hold the moisture inside better and therefore SLOW the evaporation of the water.

More water evaporated, more crystal structure grows inside which would explain the increase in power as time passes. All my cells are running bright LEDs without any oscillators.

ZnO + Alum + Epson has been the best when the cell is let dry with a resin (Gorilla glue) so that it is not in contact with air. After it dried for a month I made a hole and dropped water inside and it has been the best performing cell so far.

I don't know what to say more about those evidences of my study so far. It takes a long time to have so many cells running and observing them to see those things.

I think this is galvanic BUT also more than that and water evaporation and crystal grow (as the water evaporates) seems to be essential for this kind of cell.

Isolation from air (therefore reducing water evaporation) also increases the performance.

Fausto.

[ibpointless2]

I think I may have stumbled across on how to make a crystal cell that uses the same metals. I'm getting a constant 400mV coming from using Aluminum wire for both electrodes. There is no magic involved in the process to dope the aluminum wire but it is on the dangerous side.

To dope the aluminum wire i took a cup of water and added Epsom salt and salt substitute to it and stuck my aluminum wire in the mix. I applied 12 volts for a couple of seconds and this created one wire that was dull and the other was extra shinny. This is not a new idea as most lead-acid batteries use this idea but what is interesting was that I could no matter how hard i try could get it to charge over 500mV. Maybe if i changed the size of the plates i could get higher voltages. After doping the metals I placed them in the glue mix and i'm allowing it to dry. Care must be taken when doping the aluminum wire as the salt substitute contains chloride and this could create chlorine gas when current is passed through the water.

It is very interesting that I can get a voltage from using the same metals in a cell.

[LetsReplicate]

Hi, this is my first post here but I'm not new to the forum.

Care must be taken when doping the aluminum wire as the salt substitute contains chloride and this could create chlorine gas when current is passed through the water.

That effect should only occur if there is more than the electrolysis potential (not current) of chlorine between two points on the wire. This should only happen when the current is starting or ending, so little to no chlorine should be produced. Chlorine gas from electrolysis also dissolves pretty readily in water: you'll see green water long before you're in danger. If you're worried, place some active carbon in the water: it will absorb chlorine gas.

I'm inclined to think that the salt and crystal cells are the result of a home-brew diode. If I'm right then these cells are similar to a schottky diode but with reverse current paths through the crystal, making them non-galvanic: but there will likely some be galvanic current leakage to the effect. The reverse paths are being held closed by the biasing voltage of the metals causing the rectification that we see and the resulting inductive pickup from the wire is limited mostly to the positive metal providing recharge of the capacitance between the wires (theoretical equivalent circuit attached). This rectification would not exist in same-metal cells, allowing the reverse paths to be open, which is likely why the doped aluminum cell refuses to exceed 500mV, or at least that's my best guess anyway. If you are trying to close the reverse paths, apply voltage across the leads for the entire time the crystal is forming (which is really, really hard because of electrolysis ).

I'm currently building bi-metallic bifilar pancake coil cells in an attempt to exploit/prove the inductive charging effect, so far I am still battling with galvanic action. Using aluminum for both and doping my solve that problem, thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to test the voltage limit issue when I do.

[Slider2732]

LetsReplicate - and it looks like you are true to your name from the start

Updates from over here: on the 5th November, 3 cells were made of exactly the same salt subsititute/alum/epsom salt mix. 2 with water for a paste, 1 that was stove cooked. Previous stove types have done very well, so I wanted to try something new with one of these mixes.
The two with water did ok, just a couple of drops seems to be the optimum, giving 20 minutes or so to fully see the galvanics kick in, instead of dunking it in a puddle and whatnot. 1 of those 2 had aluminium wrapped around and one was bare to the air. The aluminium one is still ok, but it has a rancid build up decay thing going on with the aluminium...the salt substitute is a violent little ingredient !
The open air one died off the other day, but will rejuvenate with a drop of water.

The 3rd one, well, if yer still reading, this one is personally very exciting. I put the mix in a capacitor can. Set the electric cooker on a '3' and let it bubble for 5 minutes. Switched off and the mixture was now only filling half the can. So, I put unmessed with large crystals of epsom salt on the top, straight out of the store bought bag...they soak moisture and may be more beneficial to the cell than those shoe drying packets. It's still going, running a 'Penny' type oscillator and hasn't budged a bit - the electrodes are only heated copper (oxide layer) and galvanized steel (the steel brings 0.2V more normally than the aluminium can). 0.6V and 15mA

@Nick - i've got wireless power out of my experiments with Earth grounding now, hoping to do a vid today or tomorrow
There are thoughts on the diode/transistor/semi-conductor nature of these cells and whether running them in the mains field energies of recent ideas may invigorate the running of a cell for free. A version of piezo, using 60Hz mains oscillations. We know they seem to behave oddly during electrostatic weather conditions. Field effect cells..hmmm

[NickZ]

Slider and All:
I love what you've done, that is something else. Very important project.
The Doc warned me about deviating from the PSEC way of doing it, and although I can get a led or two on an AV plug to 1/4 brightness, on just a ground wire outside, I still can't get the plug to fire up the led all the way, or even close to what you've done. I salute you, as I know how hard it is to get to where you're at.
I aiming to get this right, and then possibly add some of these cells to the circuit for an added kick. Any ideas are welcome.

The Docs project does take a lot of time to relearn all about how it all works. Its almost like working with magic, Don't know if I have what it takes, but I'm going to shake a stick at it.
Glad to hear that you've got the outside earth ground working. I also noticed the brighter led using both types of grounds together on the Av plug, but I'd still rather just use the outside earth ground.
This type of energy is something else... but may not be totally compatible with the our cells. I dunno, yet.

Good luck with your new cells, also, I'll be looking forward to your next video.
NickZ

[LetsReplicate]

LetsReplicate - and it looks like you are true to your name from the start

, this is actually my job at the moment: I've been hired as the lead electrical consultant for a website based on doing free, open source replications of "free energy" with levels of detail such that even a person lay to electricity can produce working results, understand what is happening, and calculate effects. We are still setting up the site: I am prepping initial content and getting permissions to replicate where possible. On that note:

@ibpointless2
You were the one to discover the salt substitute additive, as well as the addition of alum, correct? I'd like you to receive credit for your discovery as they are way nicer ingredients to work with than Hutchison's cells were, cheaper, and they have every bit as much power.

There are thoughts on the diode/transistor/semi-conductor nature of these cells and whether running them in the mains field energies of recent ideas may invigorate the running of a cell for free. A version of piezo, using 60Hz mains oscillations. We know they seem to behave oddly during electrostatic weather conditions. Field effect cells..hmmm

I mentioned Schottky specifically because it is made of just an n-type semiconductor without a junction. The anode is a p-type metal plate. Seems to me that since we're using only n-type crystals (magnesium): that should be exactly whats happening here. It should also be noted that a "Field Effect Diode" (which can forward bias @ 0V) IS a type of Schottky diode. Has anyone tried a cat whisker to see if it rectifies better yet? It's one of the many things on my to-do list.

What do you mean by running it on the mains? You're going to make it resonant to 60Hz with an Earth ground? They made it 60Hz specifically so the wavelength is too long: that it's hard to "receive" power freely because you are always in the fear field, with an antenna that is way too short. Wouldn't it be much simpler overall if you just make 2 identical resonators at any frequency, then Tesla switched them into mutual resonance? The "free" DC power would be stored as EMF allowing for more power to enter the cells. It's just an idea I had that I intend to try later: that's why I'm making inductive cells.

[Slider2732]

Thanks to both you fella's

We're headed along a road and toward something - that much is being proven out with John B/Chuck's cells and others discoveries. Whether we can combine known and as yet unknown phenomena together is something for contemplation.
These cells, in many different mix and creation guises, react in ways that haven't been documented before.

@LetsReplicate - cool job
Fear field or near field, both are probably correct when it comes to big corps.
Tesla switching resonant oscillators, now THAT is going to be tried - neat !
My method is to derive power from the Negative winding of a transformer in a switched off wall adapter and from a stake in the ground outside. Hence 'mains' because energy is 'hopefully' being derived from the near field transformer energies detected with gauss meters. You may well know more, many may, but I don't and freely admit it. I do know though, that many house hauntings, nausea and psychological troubles are believed to originate from badly shielded fuse box and appliance energy emissions...this is also intended to use up and transform those emissions into useful energy.
Wrong thread here for that specific, but it is also the intention to use those oscillations (to trigger transistor circuits for higher frequencies) into bombarding a salts cell in the way that piezo pressures can enhance them.

[ibpointless2]

, this is actually my job at the moment: I've been hired as the lead electrical consultant for a website based on doing free, open source replications of "free energy" with levels of detail such that even a person lay to electricity can produce working results, understand what is happening, and calculate effects. We are still setting up the site: I am prepping initial content and getting permissions to replicate where possible. On that note:

@ibpointless2
You were the one to discover the salt substitute additive, as well as the addition of alum, correct? I'd like you to receive credit for your discovery as they are way nicer ingredients to work with than Hutchison's cells were, cheaper, and they have every bit as much power.

@LetsReplicate,

Wow, that's a dream job!

I was the one to come up with using Salt substitute, Epsom salt, and Elmer's glue to make a cell. This cell also can recharge itself after being shorted out for months. This cell and the stove top cell don't need water to run, not adding water for it to run is very important.

I also created the stove top cell which uses Alum, Borax, and Salt substitute that is cooked on a stove with no water added to it. The idea to use Alum was presented by John Bedini with his Alum cells, the things I did different was add borax, salt substitute and cooked it on the stove and also i never added water to it (and never made a oxide layer either). The stove top cell was only created to prove that you don't need to add water to a cell to make it work. The stove top cell is a great little performer and runs Lidmotor's Penny light very well.

Here's a link to my channel on youtube if you want to watch some of my videos. ibpointless2's Channel - YouTube

if you have anymore questions feel free to ask.

[kukulcangod]

fading away..

[QUOTE=kukulcangod;167396]I've trying to determine what was making them come back, your theory makes sense, I was thinking more along the lines of remaining chemical reactions due to the cement additives still fighting to give out their last chemical reaction energy...But I'm hoping like with our Olmec Heads(i'm the one who got shocked by this energy accumulated in the "Head of Hueyepan") and piramids, where the energy gets accumulated in time ,that this will also would hapen to this cells, slowly but surely that is. I do agree that I would need to recalculate my circuit in order to make it more efficient and to make the battery appear to be in a continuos operation mode, then again , yes there are better batteries already but I'm working with what is available, thanks for the feedback, good luck.[/QUOTE




]my 6 superbright leds are finally getting weaker, so what next? Sel loop the second pulse from the coil back to the salt bateru? We shall see...

[Zardox]

LetsReplicate - How about a link to the website?

[NickZ]

KKCGod:
What's next is to make cells that don't have high impedance, as that seams to be the most common factor in the decline in output. This thread is about dry cells, not water based cells, as water means galvanic reaction, which is what we are trying to avoid.
In order to have higher impedance cells work, you need to make an efficient Joule Thief Circuit, such as Lidmotors Penny Circuit, that can work drawing little energy, that don't tax the cell's output as much.

[LetsReplicate]

Wow, that's a dream job!

Yes, a dream job if I was being paid well: I'm mostly a volunteer at the moment. This is for science and "the good of humanity", not for my pocketbook (if certain inventors shared my view: the world would be a better place in my opinion). It will also be a lot of work, and annoying when you consider that I'll also be forced to build things that I already know don't work to demonstrate why they don't work.

I'm going to have to credit Hutchison for Epsom: he upped the first YouTube video on Jun 19, your first reference to it that I can find was Jul 13. You still get credit for potassium chloride, borax and you seem to have had the first bi-metallic glue capacitor (it was a capacitor). Bedini will be credited for Alum. Have there been any other significant discoveries by people that require credit?

The Let's Replicate Youtube account has been subscribed to you for a week or so; and I've been following along on my personal YouTube account for a few months now.

LetsReplicate - How about a link to the website?

lol, I had figured that was obvious: letsreplicate.com | Promoting free energy. : due to a change in the implementation the site that was decided on today, it is about to undergo a complete revision. The web designers are currently having Thanksgiving dinner however, so that will happen within a few days. Please try to reserve judgment on the site until the end of December, as we plan to be up and running by then.

We're going to be allowing inventors to post replication requests, as well as responses from replicators. We will be looking to gather test data back from the replications so that we can use math to calculate properties (our staff induces an ivy-league mathematician). It should speed up finding "the best recipe" if all the data is cleanly laid out in one location for everyone to see.

These cells, in many different mix and creation guises, react in ways that haven't been documented before.

I don't mean to be rude, but please mention even 1 single property of these cells that has never been documented before. These cells are simply a combination of several components, all the properties of these cells can be found in other components separately.

Lets consider that these cells have 3 states based on moisture content and compare properties to standard electronic components (if I miss any "odd effects", let me know and I'll add them to the applicable component):

Wet Cell:
Visible liquid acting as an electrolyte -
Galvanic battery: should have no other properties besides those of a battery.

• If you draw current, the leads will degrade.
• Source power output drops in a linear way when current is drawn.
• When power is depleted, will not self-recharge

Dry cell:
Solid white, rough and brittle -
Galvanic battery:

• Current limited through dielectric's high impedance but there must be a trickle still, or the cell would not recharge to the galvanic voltage, it would float.
• The high impedance prevents a complete circuit from being formed when shorted preventing galvanic draw. You're trying to feed a "low impedance" with a "high impedance", the matching will be so poor that nothing really happens.

Capacitor:

• Exhibits the discharge rate of a capacitor. Notice how the discharge rate is no longer liner in these cells?
• Charge recovers charge when not loaded using the charge curve of a capacitor.

Inductor:

• The output current increases temporarily just after shorting, more inductance should provide a higher current spike.
• Local, moving magnetic fields will effect output.

Field Effect Diode

• Rectification (if you touch both leads at the same time, the output power raises)
• Allowing any galvanic/inductive current to pass while maintaining a large dielectric impedance (the galvanic effect prevents a direct measure of dielectric resistance)
• Extremely low forward voltage, which tends to cause a high reverse leakage (putting a 12v bat across the cell which was made from a copper-magnesium, I measured 1.7uA forward, 1.1uA reverse, bare in mind that the cell is switching direction too, so they are close to equal. That is why the cell returns to it's galvanic after charging or discharging).

Pressure Transducer

• Crystals under stress produces an E field, and E fields will cause crystal stress (ionic storms).
• Heat causes stress.
• Pressure (both linear pressure and sound waves) causes stress.

Semi-dry Cell:
The crystal appears as a "waxy solid", sometimes with a bit of a shine on the surface and is the state they are in just after production -
Acts as a dry cell with increased galvanic current proportional to moisture.
Should also increase both forward and reverse diode current

In short, if these are not a "galvanic field effect diode" (a GFED?), then I will eat my hat.

What's next is to make cells that don't have high impedance, as that seams to be the most common factor in the decline in output. This thread is about dry cells, not water based cells, as water means galvanic reaction, which is what we are trying to avoid.

Decreasing impedance is what is happening when water gets added, any attempts to decrease impedance will result in more galvanic draw. What we should be looking for is maximizing capacitance as this will increase the source current. We are already increasing capacitance by increasing reactive surface area on the leads, however we may be able to up the capacitance with another additive to the substrate.