Bedini Earth Light

[ibpointless2]

So it has become obvious to me that to make a cell with a good amount of current you need to lower the resistance of the material. The easiest way to lower the resistance is to use water, but using water causes the metals to corrode. But why do the metals corrode when near water and more so when you pull electricity from the cell?

So what we know is that water will corrode the metal and the corrosion process is increase by the amount of electricity that is removed. From this we can say that we get an increase in the amount of water that surrounds the metals when we pull electricity and this make perfect since. Water is attracted to static electricity, rub a balloon on your head and place the balloon near a dripping faucet and notice the water wants to be pulled to the balloon. This is proven in this video. Static Electricity and Water - YouTube

So when we’re pulling electricity from the cell we’re making the metal more attractive to the water so a hard concentration of water will develop on it. So if water in attraction creates corrosion than there must be something opposite, something that pushes the water away or at least has the molecule faces another direction. So it happens that water is diamagnetic; water is repelled by a magnetic field. So electricity attracts water while magnetics repel water! This is shown here. "Anti" Magnetic water and Levitating Graphite by Diamagnetism - YouTube

We need to counter act the electric field that is made by the cells with a magnetic field, but the magnetic field must be stronger because diamagnetic forces are weak forces.

The idea is not to allow the water to touch the metals that would mean no power; we need the water to be in contact with the metals so that we can have power. It will be how the molecules of water will line up that will be important here. Water is shaped like Mickey Mouse, one big oxygen and two little hydrogen’s on top make up water. When water is near an electric field the water molecule rotates so that the hydrogen is near the electric field or our metals but give it a magnetic field and the molecules will rotate away or at least I hope so. Hydrogen is positive charge and the electricity contains an electron (-) and is attracted to it, so if a magnet doesn’t work we need to find a way to have the metals exposed to a (+) field so that it repels the water’s hydrogen’s. We need to learn how to master the water so that we can have cells that don’t corrode.

I have started the experiment with a cup of water with alum in it to increase the chances of it corroding. I have used copper and a steel wire and at the top of the steel wire I placed a magnet so now the steel wire is magnetic. I have shorted them out, and now we wait. So far so good but I think I don’t have a strong enough magnetic field to do any real good but I will see. This is only a theory of mine that I’m trying out.

[jehdds]

Guys,
Here is my IB/Lidmotor Variant.
Happy New Year to all.
Very Best Regards,
Jim
SUPER PENNY VARIANT ON C/MG Cells - YouTube

[ibpointless2]

Guys,
Here is my IB/Lidmotor Variant.
Happy New Year to all.
Very Best Regards,
Jim
SUPER PENNY VARIANT ON C/MG Cells - YouTube

Nice work on the circuit.

I'm curious, have you made a cell with the mix of ZnO, Epsom salt, and salt substitute?

[jehdds]

Nice work on the circuit.

I'm curious, have you made a cell with the mix of ZnO, Epsom salt, and salt substitute?

IB,
I have not made a ZnO Epsom KCl variant yet.
I am now working on just the treated Mg layer and will be trying as a start ZnO with hydration. I am tempted to use Sodium polyacrylate as adjunct to keep things moist, but I am more curious of seeing what ZnO crystal will form.
Did you ever change your "antenna" as per Ron's suggestion?
I need to try that as well. I did not see any magnet effect at the uA I am
At now. I will let it run down and see if effect is noticeable.
Thank you and Lidmotor JB and Ron, again for the prompting on this circuit.
Very Best regards,
Jim

[Slider2732]

Nice and neat construction there Jim
You'll get the flashing, when those cells begin to fade. After all, what that is, is the cap filling and discharging once the transistor is able to switch on and fire. The voltage always needs to be above the switch on of the transistor (0.4V typically 2SC1815/2N2222 etc), but the current can be right down into the couple of uA range...just takes longer to build up in the cap and that's the flash rate.
It's my experience with these cells, that the amperage runs down faster than the voltage does..so you should see that circuit flash all on its own at some time down the way.

[LetsReplicate]

Guys,
Here is my IB/Lidmotor Variant.
Happy New Year to all.
Very Best Regards,
Jim
SUPER PENNY VARIANT ON C/MG Cells - YouTube

What value of cap did you use?

It has been posted on Let's Replicate:
Let's Replicate Free Energy Devices, Overunity Devices, and Tesla Devices
I'll draw your circuit up with values once I know the value of the cap. It looks like your oscillator is either running in "normal mode" (sin wave instead of pulses), or you've "saturated the transistor" (always on because there is too much base current). Your circuit may be getting too much current to go into pulse mode, you can either increase your base resistance, or add a resistor between your cell and the oscillator.

I'm currently constructing "The triplets", which are 3 penny oscillators which share the same air-core axis. I'm wondering how effective the mutual oscillation is.

[jehdds]

What value of cap did you use?

It has been posted on Let's Replicate:
Let's Replicate Free Energy Devices, Overunity Devices, and Tesla Devices
I'll draw your circuit up with values once I know the value of the cap. It looks like your oscillator is either running in "normal mode" (sin wave instead of pulses), or you've "saturated the transistor" (always on because there is too much base current). Your circuit may be getting too much current to go into pulse mode, you can either increase your base resistance, or add a resistor between your cell and the oscillator.

I'm currently constructing "The triplets", which are 3 penny oscillators which share the same air-core axis. I'm wondering how effective the mutual oscillation is.

Hello ^.^
I used a 63v 100uf cap, two 100 uh chokes,
102 type .001 ceramic disc cap, 1 meg ohm 63P-105 cerment single turn pot part # 500-0087 NTE. Still in solid light mode. I guess I need bigger cap and resistor. Thanks again and especially to Lidmotor, IB and all you guys.
Very best regards,
Jim

[jehdds]

Nice and neat construction there Jim
You'll get the flashing, when those cells begin to fade. After all, what that is, is the cap filling and discharging once the transistor is able to switch on and fire. The voltage always needs to be above the switch on of the transistor (0.4V typically 2SC1815/2N2222 etc), but the current can be right down into the couple of uA range...just takes longer to build up in the cap and that's the flash rate.
It's my experience with these cells, that the amperage runs down faster than the voltage does..so you should see that circuit flash all on its own at some time down the way.

Slider and IB,
My circuit is now at around 7uA, but still no "blinking."
Led is more dim however. How low of current is necessary to get the blinking effect?

Very Best Regards,
Jim

[Slider2732]

I'd say just do as LR indicates. Throw a 10meg resistor on there and force the flashing...if indeed the flashing is more desirable than constant light at 7uA

Most of my cells on these circuits naturally flash away right from the initial build. Some may start off as solid light, but after perhaps a couple of days a flicker will appear and then a regular flash. Every one of the blocking oscillators is slightly different, due to component type as well as salts cell construction.
Actually, if you disconnect the cell leads you can try something of a good indicator. Run it with your body - piece of copper in one hand, a piece of steel in the other and grab the two input leads. You'll see the circuit fire up, but you may also see at what point you'll need to be for flashing to occur.

[NickZ]

Slider:
Yes, I've seen that effect even just disconnecting the negative only on the cells to the oscillator, and the led(s) will still light, but much weaker. I see that when working with the cement cell bank. Would be nice to see the led stay on at the same intensity, that would be something...
It seams that the advantage of using the know value inductors instead of the hand wound coils, or ferrite toroid cores, is the no guessing involved.

[LetsReplicate]

Slider and IB,
My circuit is now at around 7uA, but still no "blinking."
Led is more dim however. How low of current is necessary to get the blinking effect?

Very Best Regards,
Jim

Oh, it's the 0.001uF cap then, the pulses are happening so fast that you can't "see" them. If you can hear the "squealing"/"clicking" on an AM radio, then the circuit is in pulse mode. If you want to slow the pulses down so you can see them: make that capacitor larger.

The setup I'm currently using has also uses a 0.001uF cap and I can hear the squealing on the radio, but the light just appears to be "on". It is defiantly in pulse mode though, because I've seen it switch to "normal mode" (the LED gets much dimmer because it's constantly "on"). In my previous setup which used a 0.1uF cap the pulses were defiantly visible and the radio clicked instead of squealed.

[jehdds]

Oh, it's the 0.001uF cap then, the pulses are happening so fast that you can't "see" them. If you can hear the "squealing"/"clicking" on an AM radio, then the circuit is in pulse mode. If you want to slow the pulses down so you can see them: make that capacitor larger.

The setup I'm currently using has also uses a 0.001uF cap and I can hear the squealing on the radio, but the light just appears to be "on". It is defiantly in pulse mode though, because I've seen it switch to "normal mode" (the LED gets much dimmer because it's constantly "on"). In my previous setup which used a 0.1uF cap the pulses were defiantly visible and the radio clicked instead of squealed.

^.^ ,
Thank you. Makes sense. Little rattle vs drum. I rather would have it solid or fast pulse. Is the draw current lower with larger cap value and slower pulse?
I just was wondering if the lack of pulse was due to exogenous pickup by antenna. I will check with AM radio. Thank you again.
Very Best regards,
Jim

[LetsReplicate]

^.^ ,
Thank you. Makes sense. Little rattle vs drum. I rather would have it solid or fast pulse. Is the draw current lower with larger cap value and slower pulse?
I just was wondering if the lack of pulse was due to exogenous pickup by antenna. I will check with AM radio. Thank you again.
Very Best regards,
Jim

Yes, solid looks better. Ideally the cap should be just large enough that you barely notice pulses but still see them. That cap is involved in the tank circuit that is set up between it and the coils. The tank circuit determines the rate that the transistor turns on and off and the frequency that the antenna receives/transmits at, if tuned to an active signal, the circuit should run on the received signal alone. The received signal will be "normal mode" and not pulses, so yes, if the received signal has enough power, there won't be any pulses. Having pulses more often draws more current than having them less often, but that isn't much of a concern when using a salt cell because the cell controls input current.

[NickZ]

I guess that it depends on whether you want to see blinking leds and low draw on the cells, or want some real usable light, instead.
I personally don't see the point of low draw blinking leds, or barely lit ones, instead of blindingly bright leds, as being the goal, instead.
Kooler has gotten Hartley type of oscillators down to 3.8mA, and still lighting leds. As well as his oscillators lighting leds for 5 months non-stop on 1.5 volt button cells, or other small cells. He calls them backwards Joule Thief circuits, and they work with varying voltages from 0.7volts to 12volt inputs.

[NickZ]

Correction: Kooler he got the Hartley oscillator to draw only 3.8 microamps, not mAs, and still light leds.
I don't have the same low output draw from my circuits. but I'm working on it.