Bedini Earth Light

[xee2]

@ Lidmotor

Using a rod inside will probably not work as well. The current is a function of the contact area between the battery plates. I think a rod inside would produce a smaller area than the ribbon on the outside. However, the rod should last longer than the ribbon.

[John_Bedini]

Earth Light

Xee2,
I will show that experiment soon as to how much you get out.
John B

[skaght]

Carbon fiber/Mg battery

Trying to make a cheap functional carbon/Magnesium battery, I used a 1 inch diameter acrylic tube, 14" long and wrapped it with carbon fiber tow so it was completely covered and then wrapped it with paper towel and magnesium ribbon. I'm getting 8 mA at .7 volts when at full load which is running a simple joule thief and lighting a red LED.

I was disappointed at the cost of larger graphite and carbon cylinders, and since I had some carbon fibers around as "tow" it made sense to try them. Although the battery lidmotor posted from the carbon filter is cheap as well!

[John_Bedini]

Earth Lights

Here is what I notices about the magnesium ribbon. Most of it is a low grade and is very pitted when you take it out of the package, yes it burns and that is what they sell it for.

I have ordered 1 inch sticks 99.9 grade. The carbon graphite rods 3 inches in diameter are about 27 dollars each + the shipping. Normally a batteries uses dilute acid of some kind, this will destroy the magnesium or anything else you put on it.

I'm not going to call these batteries unless you use some form of acid or salts to form the galvanic action. One of my lights and motors have been running for two weeks straight no distilled water added just vapor inside the tube, my real batteries do not do that, and I know batteries.

This is a much different beast. The air is doing more damage then the distilled water. Magnesium is a very different metal so is carbon graphite. With Carbon Graphite you can make a negative resistor with the correct currents Chung has proved that. I have one running at 32 degrees and some times the temperature has been 5 degrees, no flicker in the power it is putting out on the meters. My opinion.
John B

[John_Bedini]

Earth Light

@ All,
I said I would report my findings,
Here they are, Iron wire zinc coated, under close examination (Microscope) you can see that little holes that let in water so galvanic action starts from inside the wire as a direct shorted battery of it's own, it only takes one day to start. Adding salt is the worst condition, so that is why the fences start out shiny and slowly turn black and rust away, they make little batteries on the inside and eat the zinc away. So iron wire is out of the question for the cells, more later. I will post a video of that along with the waveform as the oscillator shows what type of cell your dealing with, Physics is Physics and you can't change it. But instead of talking about it do the experiments you will find out what is going on.

"Thanks Mikrovolt that is correct about the materials".
John B

[skaght]

@ John

After reading a lot of Bearden's work, and after building one of these carbon/Mg devices, I have to ask. In your opinion, do these carbon/Mg cells put off "normal" electricity, "cold" electricity or something else altogether? Any thoughts or insights from your experience would be greatly appreciated!

[John_Bedini]

Earth Light

Skaght,
I can only give my opinion here as to what my findings are so far.
Carbon Graphite is a very different material an has been used by many people as negative resistors but they do put out normal power after excited. One indication of that is extreme cold operation. Magnesium is a magic metal with most things The two together allow this process and effect to show up. The more current that the system requires the colder the Graphite will be, as things cool off you will get more power transfer to the load, yes in a way it is cold electricity. The next thing is to build "Negistor" circuits with the lighting, one could use a "Tunnel Diode" and run the circuits negative. With this type of cell you have allot of unknowns which I hope we can discover as to the workings of this device. If you look at the Stubblefield coil Lasersaber made he had two batteries working to destroy the cell, salt water and zinc iron wire so where the wire broke the wire was already pitted and it formed a battery of it's own. The stubblefild cell was different because it used cotton covered iron wire, no zinc to cause that action. So Lasersaber built a copper iron zinc galvanic battery to be doomed in the end because of the zinc over the iron. Hope this helps you in your understanding of this effect.
John B

[John_Bedini]

Earth Light 5

Earth Light 5,
In this video I show a carbon Graphite rod bored out to fit the magnesium stick running the oscillator. At this point the experiment was to see if the surface area made a difference and it did not. I was not that critical with the gap the next one will be much closer tolerance. The black material is felt damp with distilled water. So using the wave shape from the oscillator
you can tell what type cell is running. The cells must use high impedance devices as loads. The best working devices would be miniature oscillators and non magnetic motors at this point.

YouTube - Earth Light 5

John Bedini

[FRC]

Still Fuzzy

Still fuzzy about the thermal connections. I am thinking temperature, from what
people are saying, does play a role. Now for my next line of thinking. Is there
some way to utilize the circuit from a small 12v cooler in conjunction with these
batteries. 12v coolers are small heat pumps, and heat pumps are supposed to be OU already. Would there be some benefit ? Or do I JUST SOUND CRAZY for
mentioning this ?

FRC

[Freezer]

@ John,
I was wondering can you post your monopole circuit you are using in #5? I tried to do something the like the monopole with a mpsa06. Very interested in seeing your "negistor" circuit.

[skaght]

layered carbon/Mg cell

My first carbon/Mg cell is sealed in a plastic tube with distilled water running a joule thief continuously. I'm curious to see how long it lasts! I think we could make a much more powerful cell by layering. I originally used 25k carbon fibers wound around an acrylic tube for the first layer and then added the magnesium ribbon on top. Carbon fibers are sold as "tow" or ribbon and 25k is the number of strands. The carbon fiber strip is about 1/3" wide with 25k. There's absolutely no reason why you couldn't keep layering carbon fibers and magnesium over and over again, wiring in series or in parallel the layers until you get the desired current or voltage!

[Lidmotor]

Scope shots

Here is a video showing the wave form on my setup. I reworked the circuit and put the large "cell" in a clear plastic bottle that has the top cut off. I put about 1" of distilled water in the bottle. I ran several things with this today and some things worked better than others.

YouTube - Bedini Earth Light scope shots.ASF

Lidmotor

PS----Here is the "Big Cell" powering an electronically fired pulse motor.

YouTube - BIG CELL powering pulse motor and Maggie

[Aaron]

reversed 2n2222 w/out base

Would the 2n2222 connected in reverse without a base connection
be a suitable way to go for this circuit since it goes negative?

Such as this kind of circuit - a negative oscillator or negistor oscillator?

[chuck H]

Series cells

@ skaght
Yes they can be in series. Did that at work today. Have not done any testing other then that at this point. I will post some results. When it happens.

@ Everyone
Has anyone else done this yet?

@ John B.
Call me if you get a moment....

[kcarring]

Off Grid Fluorescents

@John @ All

I've been playing with these circuits trying to learn more and ultimately my goal is to device a method to drive and control about 60 CFL tubes in a greenhouse off grid. Currently, the power gets inverted to AC, from solar, then ran into ballasts. This property is pretty rural so I am not quite as concerned about RF as I would be in town. My hopes are that I can devise a circuit that runs on the supply of 12v directly and if at all possible, actually used the collapse transients to help further the process. My thoughts are too that timing the circuit could also possibly provide energy savings. Later on I will take it further and figure out how to detect the "sun strength" and have those lights dim and or shutoff when ambient light is available (sun comes out from behind a cloud or rises in the morning) - which would further optimize the system. I have even thought about incorporating a tesla switching system behind this to take it even further in terms of battery consumption. All in due time. I somehow imagine a Bedini - like circuit doing this. Perhaps I don't understand - and - in a normal ballast you are getting that bonus already? In any event I am learning a lot about transistors, tonight I learned how to check them and identify properties, I'm getting a better grasp on this stuff daily. If my thoughts in general are not sensible, I welcome anyone to set me straight.