Bedini Earth Light

[br0ns0n77]

Cool pics Nick. I do have a Mg fire starter and I used that to see what kinda voltage I could get using epsom and was getting around 1.3-1.5v with one cell, which puts me in the ball park of what I'd like to use these batteries for remotes and other small items - since usually there's only two slots for AA batteries in most items.

Have you noticed any corrosion on the aluminum with the heated copper?

Thanks man!

[NickZ]

The aluminum does corrode, even when using it with the treated copper, but now when using grease, it's helping a lot.
Pure stainless steel does not oxidize at all, but does not provide for the same output, I wish it did.

@ cgal: Yes, getting a higher fluffly voltage level is easy, but getting the current to go up is not easy, at all. I don't know what's up with that.
I'm still working on it...

Most of the cells that have shown very high current levels drop to 1/10 of what short circuit levels starts at, once under a heavy load. High impedance and resistance are still a factor working against us.
The use of MnO2 is very caustic to the metals, but may be necessary to keep the output from dropping as the hydrogen gas builds up in the cells. Opens cells may not be as affected by that gas build up, as much as the hermetically sealed cells.

Anyways, keep at it...

[Allwest]

NickZ& br0ns0n77

Very clean work, you guys gave me an idea to use copper tubing the size of a AA battery, I just need a pencil size mag

plengo, or anybody else

have any idea where to get pencil size round rods of Mag?

Best of luck

[br0ns0n77]

Thanks!! I'm not sure where you can find that size Mg. I plan on using a copper rod with Mg ribbon around it with a cloth separator with the mixture in it slid into a surrounding non-metal tube.

Anyone have any idea where I can find Mg ribbon that doesn't cost an arm and leg to ship it? Thanks guys!

[Allwest]

Thanks!! I'm not sure where you can find that size Mg. I plan on using a copper rod with Mg ribbon around it with a cloth separator with the mixture in it slid into a surrounding non-metal tube.

Anyone have any idea where I can find Mg ribbon that doesn't cost an arm and leg to ship it? Thanks guys!

010 - Magnesium Metal - GalliumSource

[Allwest]

The aluminum does corrode, even when using it with the treated copper, but now when using grease, it's helping a lot.
Pure stainless steel does not oxidize at all, but does not provide for the same output, I wish it did.

@ cgal: Yes, getting a higher fluffly voltage level is easy, but getting the current to go up is not easy, at all. I don't know what's up with that.
I'm still working on it...

Most of the cells that have shown very high current levels drop to 1/10 of what short circuit levels starts at, once under a heavy load. High impedance and resistance are still a factor working against us.
The use of MnO2 is very caustic to the metals, but may be necessary to keep the output from dropping as the hydrogen gas builds up in the cells. Opens cells may not be as affected by that gas build up, as much as the hermetically sealed cells.

Anyways, keep at it...

Nick,

This may be the cure for the aluminum


150 - Aluminum Gallium Alloy 99.99% 100 grams Free Shipping! - GalliumSource

[br0ns0n77]

Nick,

This may be the cure for the aluminum


150 - Aluminum Gallium Alloy 99.99% 100 grams Free Shipping! - GalliumSource

Thanks so much for the help!

[NickZ]

At 100 grams of that aluminum for $150, they are not giving it away...

We need to protect the metals by forming a layer of oxides, as without the oxide layer the metal turns to mush. That's the trick that John mentioned to us several times, we've got to "fool the metals" to transfer the ions, without the normal electric currents eating things up.
Possibly, ions flux is similar to magnetic currents, which can pass through anything, but are not like a physical material substance, and more similar to photons.

There is a new type of magnesium alloy that has been invented for use with fuel cells, which does not break down, but I forget where I saw it advertized, maybe someone posted the link to it here.

I just connected 6 cells together in series, but only got 2.5 volts, and 10mA. So neither series nor parallel placement works too well for me.
It is lighting three leds pretty bright though. But, not only a little brighter than what my strongest single cell can do.

[br0ns0n77]

Cell Temperature

I've seen some saying a higher temperature seems to bring up the amps. I can confirm that to some extent. Initially for the first few minutes when adding heat, the cell does go up dramatically, but then it levels off and slowly starts ticking down again. I was successful in finding a method of keeping the amps higher than normal with adding and subtracting heat. Using a hair dryer, I got the amps up to the level off point with heat, then once the amps started dropping I immediately pushed the cold air button on the dryer and the amps sky rocketed momentarily, then started declining again.

This tells me that it's the difference in the hot and cold that is keeping the amps higher than normal. I was able to keep the amps from declining on load by moving the heat off and on the cell. Now how this could be applied to be useful, I have no idea. I just made an observation on how thermal difference affects these cells. Hope it may be helpful to someone.

Good luck!!

[b_rads]

LED Light and Charger

Here is an update on the power of the chili powder cell 16 days old, no water was added after it was created

Allwest power cell # 6 - YouTube

The products are listed in the video, I meant to say in the video that the dry-out product was supposed to keep it moist, not dry, although it does not seam to be wet

Fausto,
On the open cells that I have created, the dry-out keeps the cells damp with never adding water, may save you some time, it also seams to add more power, just a thought to try


br0ns0n77,
Here is a quick easy and cheap LED light -low voltage setup with switch, I was around $1.29

Best of luck to all

@Allwest,
Just got a chance to see your video, very nice results. Look for a Solar Accent Light that has a CdS Photoresistor on it. Connect your cell to the solar panel leads and you will have a charger and night light. I have some set up this way that give me a full Summer’s worth of accent lighting on my patio with simple Mg/C/Cu cells. With your voltage and current readings, you do not have to worry about overcharging. Getting a full charge might be more of a concern.
On the Overunity.com site is a thread titled “Joule Thief 101” that you might be interested in. Lidmotor and Slider might be more help here as they both are very well versed in these circuits. You can use a secondary winding as the charger with the primary windings lighting the LED. In the download section there, I have a document titled “Joule Thief 101” that is a recap of the thread.
Keep up the good work.

[Allwest]

I've seen some saying a higher temperature seems to bring up the amps. I can confirm that to some extent. Initially for the first few minutes when adding heat, the cell does go up dramatically, but then it levels off and slowly starts ticking down again. I was successful in finding a method of keeping the amps higher than normal with adding and subtracting heat. Using a hair dryer, I got the amps up to the level off point with heat, then once the amps started dropping I immediately pushed the cold air button on the dryer and the amps sky rocketed momentarily, then started declining again.

This tells me that it's the difference in the hot and cold that is keeping the amps higher than normal. I was able to keep the amps from declining on load by moving the heat off and on the cell. Now how this could be applied to be useful, I have no idea. I just made an observation on how thermal difference affects these cells. Hope it may be helpful to someone.

Good luck!!

Interesting info

Thanks!

[Allwest]

@Allwest,
Just got a chance to see your video, very nice results. Look for a Solar Accent Light that has a CdS Photoresistor on it. Connect your cell to the solar panel leads and you will have a charger and night light. I have some set up this way that give me a full Summer’s worth of accent lighting on my patio with simple Mg/C/Cu cells. With your voltage and current readings, you do not have to worry about overcharging. Getting a full charge might be more of a concern.
On the Overunity.com site is a thread titled “Joule Thief 101” that you might be interested in. Lidmotor and Slider might be more help here as they both are very well versed in these circuits. You can use a secondary winding as the charger with the primary windings lighting the LED. In the download section there, I have a document titled “Joule Thief 101” that is a recap of the thread.
Keep up the good work.

Thanks for the info

How much power are you getting with your cell? and how long are they lasting?

Best of luck

[NickZ]

Brad:
I don't get it. Are you trying to charge your cell? What's the advantage?
I've got two of those Radio Shacks solar cells that are about 1/2"by 1 1/4".
I've tried to charge an AA with them, but have not had any luck. Just during the day, so no resistor used, as they are not connected at night. Any ideas?

I had some disapointing results last night. I connected 6 cells together, only to find that the leds were even dimmer this morning than with using just one cell. So,
back to the drawing board, again.

[b_rads]

Charger

Brad:
I don't get it. Are you trying to charge your cell? What's the advantage?
I've got two of those Radio Shacks solar cells that are about 1/2"by 1 1/4".
I've tried to charge an AA with them, but have not had any luck. Just during the day, so no resistor used, as they are not connected at night. Any ideas?

I had some disapointing results last night. I connected 6 cells together, only to find that the leds were even dimmer this morning than with using just one cell. So,
back to the drawing board, again.

Hey Nick.
In Allwest’s video, he mentioned that he would like to charge batteries from his cell. If I misunderstood, oops, my mistake. The setup I referred to allows me to place these lights in places that would not get enough sunlight to recharge the battery during the day. My cell simply replaces the solar panel. In order to use it as a recharger, you must place two cells in series to get enough voltage. A single cell is more than adequate to light the LED. The solar panel on most of the solar accent lights will output anywhere from >2Volts to < 3 ˝ Volts and between 30mA to 100mA. Most of the solar accent lights I have used require 15 to 20mA to light the LED at full brightness.

Magnetman2010 shows a circuit (from another youtuber) similar to one that Lasersaber published that I really like. This one operates at 2 – 3mA and puts out a really nice light. I am currently testing this circuit and hope to retire the solar lights in favor of this one. For the current draw of 1 solar light circuit, I can run 5 or 6 of this circuit. This circuit uses only a torrid, 2n2222, and 100k resistor.

If I remember correctly, the Radio Shack solar panels only put out 0.5Volts each. You would need to add 2 to 3 more panels or run from the secondary of a joule thief to charge.

[NickZ]

Ok, I get it now. It's so you don't need the sun to run the lights.
Thanks for the explanation. Are your pill bottle cells filled with carbon? What is the output?

The little radio shack solar cells put out 300mA each, but only 1/2 volt. I have two of them, so I should be able to at least charge the AA to one volt, and 300mA, but it doesn't. It does run my oscillator's led light (a super bright 10mm led) real well though, but only during the daylight hours.

Magnetman does have some interesting videos.