Bedini Earth Light

[Slider2732]

Just a quick update with the standard aluminium. I built a burnt copper version and saw the same voltage but a tiny increase in amperage, 30uA, to 160uA, 0.568V.
It's now on test with the other one and i'll try leaded solder too.
Here's that cell and, btw, i've started using a different coil type for 'Penny' type oscillators. Ya know those small silver pots on old radios ? well it's the ferrite inside that can be turned with a small flatblade screwdriver. 150 winds of 40 gauge from a relay, then a twist to form the center tap and then carry on with another 150 winds. Just another type of coil.

[plengo]

I noticed something on my cells. I have been testing the same formula (Mg, sand, carbon, alum) with different quantities of alum. More alum in seems better. Now, i also have been adding water with and without almun.

What is very interesting is that the cells that i add more water with alum, after the cell diminish substantially its output power, is that alum will block all the inner micro-tubes formed that conducts the water and crystilize from within and break the cell and destroy it.

The cell even grows in size to the point of cracking the surrouding shell.

The cell when first made goes through a formation of its internal water conducts that allows the water to be decomposed in its parts while generating energy. It is necessary to let the cell to dry in its first months while running a load. After that first dry you can only add clean water, otherwise the cell will die.

The cells with iron pyrite performs better too. Corrosion is there but it does not corrode all. It gets to a balance point where the Mg is gray (MgOx x = 2, 3 or more) and Mg.

Fausto.

[NickZ]

Thank you Fausto. Well taken, and noted.
I also have noticed that adding any kind of salts to the additional waterings would tend to be detrimental to my cells, after a while. So, now I'm using plain rain water, or tap water which has a little chloride, as it comes from the public water system. This seams to work ok. But, now after your comment, I'll only use just rain water, instead, as it rains almost every afternoon here now, and so is easy to obtain.
Have you had a chance to take some of the cells apart yet, for inspection that were treated with the permatex grease?

NickZ

[cgalvisardila]

I noticed something on my cells. I have been testing the same formula (Mg, sand, carbon, alum) with different quantities of alum. More alum in seems better. Now, i also have been adding water with and without almun.

What is very interesting is that the cells that i add more water with alum, after the cell diminish substantially its output power, is that alum will block all the inner micro-tubes formed that conducts the water and crystilize from within and break the cell and destroy it.

The cell even grows in size to the point of cracking the surrouding shell.

The cell when first made goes through a formation of its internal water conducts that allows the water to be decomposed in its parts while generating energy. It is necessary to let the cell to dry in its first months while running a load. After that first dry you can only add clean water, otherwise the cell will die.

fausto, thanks for this post, i have observed the same thing about letting the cell dry, consider this observation replicated and confirmed, good job.... what would you say is the right amount of alum in proportion to the other ingredients?

cheers

ib pointless and nick, guys this is not a boxing ring, please, patience my dear friends... i think both approaches have validity, and i myself am pointing to the dry cell, definitely its harder to get, but bear in mind, the solar cell is precisely that, a dry cell, or even, a radiant cell that only captures and converts visible light, or heat, its main ingredient is selenium (which captures and directly converts heat into electricity)... i guess the next step is to come up with a cell that captures and converts more of the radiant spectrum, such as UV, gamma, microwaves, and radio waves, even ether, which are radiating into our planet at all times, they penetrate clouds and are present at night. materials such as bismuth, galena (wich is known to capture radio waves), and magnetite could be used to capture these radiant waves... cheers, don't give up, i'm sure that those micro amps can be stepped up with the proper research and experimentation.

carlos

[Allwest]

Here is an interesting crystal salt

Magnetic Salt - Dysprosium Nitrate
Magnetic Salt - Dysprosium Nitrate - YouTube

[b_rads]

Chemalloy Battery

@all:
Here is my replication of the chemalloy battery.

Chamalloy Battery 1st Attempt

The current seems very high for the weak electrolyte used. I used the 4043 alloy in this build. After 3 hours running LaserSaber’s mini joule ringer circuit I rechecked the short circuit readings and they have not fallen like my typical galvanic cells have. This cell appears to be worthy of further study. If I can get the longevity Sawt2 has on his, I will be very happy.

Enjoy, Brad S

[Allwest]

Brad S

Very nice presentation, thank you

Best of luck

[Lidmotor]

Replication time.

@all:
Here is my replication of the chemalloy battery.

Chamalloy Battery 1st Attempt

The current seems very high for the weak electrolyte used. I used the 4043 alloy in this build. After 3 hours running LaserSaber’s mini joule ringer circuit I rechecked the short circuit readings and they have not fallen like my typical galvanic cells have. This cell appears to be worthy of further study. If I can get the longevity Sawt2 has on his, I will be very happy.

Enjoy, Brad S

OK Brad I was inspired by your video so I built a similar cell today and the results were close to yours.
I could not get any of the special Chemalloy welding rod but I did get a piece of ZA (zinc / aluminum alloy) off ebay that seems to work quite well. This week I will try again to get the real stuff. I used the activated charcoal and the same electrolyte (water, sea salt, and vinegar) that you used. My power output was similar to yours (about a volt and over 100mA) but as always the question will be ---For how long??? Right now I have tried this cell on most of my AA battery "toys" and it will run most of them. This is probably just another simple galvanic but if it will keep putting out more power and for longer than the others we have built ----who cares. If I can put a bunch of these together and get it to run my new Joule Ringer 2.0 that would be great. I would need at least a six pack. Maybe a 12 pack.

Lidmotor

[Slider2732]

I think that if it does run the Joule Ringer you could do worse than buying a different kind of 6 pack !
200mA of Brads, 100mA of yours - great

An inevitable question perhaps - is there anything commonly found in garden implements or around the house that may use such a Zn/Al alloy ?
I'm thinking of cutting out the weldings of old pots and pans...or something.

[NickZ]

I'm thinking of pulling them out of my bikes Al frame weldings, but I'll wait until we hear about how it went with the pots and pan welds, first.

Alpaca is another alloy, as it's called here, used by craftspeople to make their wares, similar somewhat to silver, but much cheaper, and it comes in wire of different thickness, and other sizes, and dimensions. I know that it does not easily rust, and may be very rust and salts resistant, and long lasting. It's cheap and can even be replaceable electrode. Probably all depends what medium it's going to be put it.
But, it looks like the activated carbon, and Mg, or Al, work well, and produces some juice.
Aluminum has less voltage output, but it may outlast Mg, and it's easy to get and cheap to use. The trick now is seeing what lasts longer, and if it can be easily replaced when it wears out.

[Slider2732]

@Nick - after reading your post I started wondering about the fencing in the backyard. It's been there for many years, no rust, the common interwoven steel looking stuff of about equiv 10 gauge copper.
I snipped some off with pliers and, with a piece of unburnt regular copper, put it with tap water in a pills bottle.
0.904V @ 1.3mA
So, that's another non ruster that would be very easy to replace or build from scratch.

[MonsieurM]

just a little info that might be worth exploring ( mentioned it to slider ) with your battery mix as most of us has a fridge

How to Revive a Dead Laptop Battery with Step-by-Step Pictures

The same freezer that holds your frozen pizzas and TV dinners can often bring seemingly-dead laptop batteries back to usable (though not quite like-new) condition.

some info : besides water expanding on freezing

Other substances that expand on freezing are silicon, gallium, germanium, antimony, bismuth, plutonium and other compounds that form spacious crystal lattices with tetrahedral coordination.

just thought you might like to know this

ps: magnetite is also tetrahedral structure

[ibpointless2]

@all:
Here is my replication of the chemalloy battery.

Chamalloy Battery 1st Attempt

The current seems very high for the weak electrolyte used. I used the 4043 alloy in this build. After 3 hours running LaserSaber’s mini joule ringer circuit I rechecked the short circuit readings and they have not fallen like my typical galvanic cells have. This cell appears to be worthy of further study. If I can get the longevity Sawt2 has on his, I will be very happy.

Enjoy, Brad S

Nice work Brad!

What happens when you place the chemalloy metal in a cup of white distilled vinegar?

[b_rads]

Status

After a full 36 hours, the 6" cell is sitting on 70mA. This seems to confirm what I have read about this cell. Let's see if it will hold there or continue to drop. It has been under load the entire time with LaserSaber's Mini Joule Ringer circuit.
Could not resist the 6-pack, lol, so here you go. These cell are 3" and 6 in series gives 3.8Volts and 150mA. This is 7 10mm LEDS without any circuit.

Brad S

@IB - Shut it down for the night. I will be happy to start that test tomorrow.

[NickZ]

Looking good Brad, let us know how the cells hold out.

Slider, funny you should ask, about back yard non rusting materials to use on the cells.
I had some of the power line wire that the electric power company uses here for their street lines. I had some of that's laying on the ground going from my house to my water well, for the last 15 years or so. It's aluminum alloy, with a center steel line, and none of which had rusted, laying there for years.
So, I took some yards of the aluminum wire and made several cells with it. Using a 1/2" copper pipe cut about 8 in long, and the Al wire wrapped around it with a paper separator between, Lasersaber style.
It worked good, but as more salt was added to the paper electrolyte separator, it did start to eat the aluminum wire as well as the copper tube, in time. If you let it dry out, the voltage and current dropped. If you wet it again, it came to life again, as is normal for the Lasersaber type cell. But, it was just using some back yard scrap aluminum wire and copper pipe, ocean water, or table salt. This was made almost two years ago, or so.
So, I wound the same type of wire around my 6 foot copper framed pyramid, using a cloth separator in between. But, it had no conduction dry, nada, zip, zilch, zero. Oh, I think I may have gotten a 1/4 volt maybe, or less. So, I wet the cotton cloth separator, and of course it started to work. The more separate coil winds I placed on the same copper tube pyramid frame, the higher was the output. All the separate coil winds were separate cells, but mounted on the same copper pipe as their positive rail. And that is what happened with that. So, long as you wet the paper or cloth separator, it gave several volts, and a some mAs, which would brightly light some leds. I just don't remember the exact readings now.
The main thing that I learned from doing that was that the more separate but series connected winds of the aluminum wire or coils that are placed on the same copper pipe, the higher was the output.