Bedini Earth Light

[plengo]

@Sawt2:
That is a great question. The reason I chose to use the activated carbon is two-fold.
#1 – The voltage potential of carbon and an negative electrode is greater than the voltage potential of copper and the same negative electrode.
#2 – Polorization is the second consideration for me in choosing the activated carbon. Gasses form on the electrodes which essentially increase the resistance of the cell shutting down the available current. By using the granular carbon, we are increasing surface area of the electrode to try and overcome some of this resistance. By pulverizing the carbon in my coffee grinder, the surface area is tremendously increased.
Using white vinegar or ammonia changes the PH of the electrolyte and attempts to work as a depolarizer, reducing some of the gasses on the electrodes.

My theory on why the alumiweld might be working as well as it does is this – Zinc has one of the highest electric potentials of the metals, higher than magnesium or aluminum. Magnesium and aluminum have greater voltage potential than does zinc. Given that this alloy is zinc and aluminum, I think we are seeing the voltage potential of the aluminum and the electrical potential of the zinc in play.
As an example - 1 volt at 50 mA = 0.05 watts. 0.5 volts at 100 mA = 0.05 watts. So if my theory is correct: 1 volt at 100 mA = 0.1 watts. I do not think this is linear as described in this example, but does describe what I think might be happening.

What I have described about the carbon is classic for redox primary cells. The mission before us is to prove whether or not this is a classic redox cell.

Thanks again for the excellent question Brian.

Brad S

Put sand on it and it will mix and work with your activated carbon really well.

Fausto.

[Allwest]

To all,

This may be common knowledge to this board, but I thought I would mention it

When using a liquid cell such as Chemalloy and carbon, or chemalloy and copper, add additional copper in the water and watch the amps go up, add more and watch it go up more, it does not do anything for the voltage just the amps

Regarding chemalloy

Last weekend I bought some Aluminum welding rod, with flux on the outside of the rod
I wrapped copper wire around the flux and stuck in a bath of salts,I think it read about .56 volts and 5 ma

Today I checked it and it read .45 volts & 2.5 Ma, the aluminum has very little pits, not many, still very shinny

I added hydrogen peroxide tonight and it read .68 volts and 40Ma ..........and it is going up 15 min latter .75 volts 60Ma

This is a very small rod 1/8" and it is only about 2"s long

Can someone else verify the hydrogen peroxide results in these cells?

Also, I forgot to mention with this 1/8" rod wrapped in copper wire, I add a 1" copper coupling in the bath connected to copper wire, otherwise it would be 1/4 of the power


B-rad,
You where asking for power storage devices
I ran across a company with mechanical devices for storage, for supplementing the grid when it was down

Basically it is a big spring that gets wound up from the grid power and waits until it is needed, kinda like a toy car

I can see many uses for this, including gathering power for the house on off hours, and running the spring during peek hours, to cut your electricity bill

Also your car could drive into the garage and compress some springs for lights in your garage , and other

You can gear ratio the release of the spring to have long lasting power, and or hook to a light switch when you need power


Just some thoughts, and best of luck to all

[NickZ]

@ Slider:
I answered your PM. Please let me know if you didn't get it, as there is no record or proof of my having sent it.

@ Lidmotor:
Thanks for the reply on the welding rods.
I'm sure that you've seen how marine outboards motors use replaceable zinc pads mounted on the bottoms of the motors, to help avoid the galvanic break-down of the other more expensive motor parts. Zinc is the sacrificial metal used, as it will get consumed more quickly than any other metal, thus avoiding having to replace more expensive machined motor parts.
Maybe the same idea can be used on these cells, and a small and inexpensive zinc metal pad can be used, that can also be easily replaced as they wears out.
If we can't avoid the galvanic reaction, at least there may be some things that can be done to slow it way down. Iron pyrite may also be one of them.

NickZ

[Slider2732]

@Nick - Thanks, yes. I think i'll have to use oscillators for le project grande.

@All - to explain, i'm building a much larger version of the single positive node outdoor idea.
2 copper kitchen scourer pads are my Positive in the Earth (got no copper rods), at a depth of 1ft at the moment and with copper wire to the top that came from a length of coax cable. Around and in a circle, are 25 fence pieces, straightened and of 1ft length each.
Summing the outputs has been where i've been stuck at...the wish not to use oscillators. At present, there are 4 LED's flashing away outside, connected to respective 4 pieces of fence and proving out the single node concept, which also reduces any final system cost.
The oscillators will oscillate if given any load ('Penny' type), they need not have an LED in series. Output to a cap as that load is about the most useful up to now.
The individual lines from the fence pieces and middle copper will run to the house (only a few feet to limit line loss) and to a summing circuit in our utility room.
I'm going for a 2W LOA LED on an inverter as the project aim, however many pieces of fence are needed.


Update - I shot a brief piece of video just now, to show these 4 oscillators flashing away. Thinking about it, such a system would be good anyway to indicate a route down a path or something in the dark. No solar or batteries needed and it hasn't rained here for quite a few days.

4 Osc running - YouTube

[Lidmotor]

Quick 1min. update vid ---bigger is better

@All
Here is quick video of the cell I made using a 4oz piece of Al/Zn anode metal I got on Ebay. I am having more luck with this than with the Alumiweld rod. I took this cell apart today and looked closely at the anode metal. It has formed that black coating on it but it still seems to be working. There appears to be no deterioration of the anode metal so far. Keep your fingers crossed.

Zinc and Aluminum alloy anode cell running pulse motor and Exciter. - YouTube

@NickZ
Yes the zinc boat anodes work but they seem to stop when that black coating forms. This zinc/aluminum alloy may solve that problem. We will see.

@ Slider
BIGGER PANS! BIGGER PANS!!!. -----bigger is better.

Lidmotor

[Slider2732]

@Lidmotor Yes indeed, if only the world used 4ft cooking pans i'd have a decent sized Positive electrode

Nice neat vid there...hope it runs well and keeps the current !
I wonder if the reactions are affected the same with constant use or with only periodic use.

[NickZ]

@ Lidmotor and All:
I was thinking more along the lines of placing a piece of Zinc metal on the outside of the cells (or inside), not to be used as an electrode, but to deter the oxidation on the rest of the metals on the cells. As that zinc metal can even be placed in the cell, like sticking a galvanized nail into the charcoal, zinc will wear away more quickly, and avoid the aluminum or Mg breaking down as fast. It would serve the purpose of the "sacrificial metal" that can be replaced when eaten away, like the Mg rods in the hot water heaters.

Carbon/graphite rods will work better than the copper wire, when using the activated charcoal, and will not contaminate like the copper will, that will also form the "black coating" that does not conduct very well.
As graphite or carbon rods don't reacts with the salt water or the vineger, but can plug up from excess salts, over a period of time.
Also try the sand, washed/or not, in with the charcoal, even beach sand works for me, and already comes with some natural sea salt in it. Other non sodium salts work better, at least don't oxidize the metals as fast. and produce more juice. Like Lasersaber's 2 Amp cells, but placed in the oil bath, so they'll last? I hope.
If we can find something like the Super Glue that can be painted onto the metals to help seal and protect them, similar to how the grease can help to slow down oxidation, then we may be able to hold off the rust, also.
And IF the paint, or layer conducts IONs, but not electrons, it would work even better yet. As it's really the the galvanic flow of electrons that are giving us the contamination, as well as the metal break-down problems.

It's possible that IONs, and Photons, are one and the same thing. And may be the real reason why the Exciter circuits can produce light with practically no current. Or, what is called WATTLESS CURRENT. As Ions are the "activation current" that produces the wattless current.
At least, that is what I think, and am working on now.

[Allwest]

@All
Here is quick video of the cell I made using a 4oz piece of Al/Zn anode metal I got on Ebay. I am having more luck with this than with the Alumiweld rod. I took this cell apart today and looked closely at the anode metal. It has formed that black coating on it but it still seems to be working. There appears to be no deterioration of the anode metal so far. Keep your fingers crossed.

Zinc and Aluminum alloy anode cell running pulse motor and Exciter. - YouTube

@NickZ
Yes the zinc boat anodes work but they seem to stop when that black coating forms. This zinc/aluminum alloy may solve that problem. We will see.

@ Slider
BIGGER PANS! BIGGER PANS!!!. -----bigger is better.

Lidmotor

Lidmotor,

What kind of power where you getting?

Best of luck

[Lidmotor]

Lidmotor,

What kind of power where you getting?

Best of luck

I just checked two of my zinc/aluminum alloy cells. Both are at about 3/4 of a volt. The welding rod one shows 35 mA dead shorted and the larger one that is using the chunk of alloy shows 75mA. The small one needs to be watered when it dries out but the one in the plastic box has enough water so it just keep going.

@Plengo
That self watering cell I made that is your copper cap with the Mg inside really worked out well. It has been months now running one of my Penny oscillators.

@NickZ
I was reading up on sacrificial anodes and one of the articles talked about what you were suggesting. If you use two sacrificial metals the less noble one will go first until it is gone and then the second one starts going. It is an idea worth looking into.

@All
I built a 4 cell battery today using magnesium anodes just to see if I could get my Super Joule Ringer 2.0 to run on it . It did.

Homemade battery for Super Joule Ringer 2.0 - YouTube


Lidmotor

[Allwest]

I just checked two of my zinc/aluminum alloy cells. Both are at about 3/4 of a volt. The welding rod one shows 35 mA dead shorted and the larger one that is using the chunk of alloy shows 75mA. The small one needs to be watered when it dries out but the one in the plastic box has enough water so it just keep going.

@Plengo
That self watering cell I made that is your copper cap with the Mg inside really worked out well. It has been months now running one of my Penny oscillators.

@NickZ
I was reading up on sacrificial anodes and one of the articles talked about what you were suggesting. If you use two sacrificial metals the less noble one will go first until it is gone and then the second one starts going. It is an idea worth looking into.

@All
I built a 4 cell battery today using magnesium anodes just to see if I could get my Super Joule Ringer 2.0 to run on it . It did.

Homemade battery for Super Joule Ringer 2.0 - YouTube


Lidmotor

Lidmotor,

What kind of power do you need from the power cells, to run the Super Joule Ringer 2.0 light to full brightness ?

Best of luck

[Lidmotor]

Power to make BIG light

Lidmotor,

What kind of power do you need from the power cells, to run the Super Joule Ringer 2.0 light to full brightness ?

Best of luck

On the Super Joule Ringer 2.0 that I made it depends on which bulb I use. The one that I really want to use is the Utilitech 7.5W AC led bulb that puts out 400+ lumens. My "Ringer" requires about 4W of power to make it happen. That is asking alot from a homemade water based mild electrolyte (that won't burn your face off) battery. A more realistic light is the Lights of America 2.5W AC led that only takes about half that. I think that it can be done if we get everything right. Electrode plate design with lots of surface area is a must to get the most amperage. All we need to do then is just keep adding cells to get the voltage up. We are reinventing something that has been done long ago and by many different people. Maybe if we are lucky we will stumble onto something new along the way. Human innovation is an amazing thing.

Lidmotor

[Allwest]

On the Super Joule Ringer 2.0 that I made it depends on which bulb I use. The one that I really want to use is the Utilitech 7.5W AC led bulb that puts out 400+ lumens. My "Ringer" requires about 4W of power to make it happen. That is asking alot from a homemade water based mild electrolyte (that won't burn your face off) battery. A more realistic light is the Lights of America 2.5W AC led that only takes about half that. I think that it can be done if we get everything right. Electrode plate design with lots of surface area is a must to get the most amperage. All we need to do then is just keep adding cells to get the voltage up. We are reinventing something that has been done long ago and by many different people. Maybe if we are lucky we will stumble onto something new along the way. Human innovation is an amazing thing.

Lidmotor

Just some ideas on possibly increasing power for you

Did you try adding Hydrogen peroxide to the liquid? it will increase your power by 4 fold+, it is a temporary gain of a day or two until it dissipates

Also, I noticed if any acid is introduced to the liquid it reduced the effect of the hydrogen peroxide (I just use salt and HP)

Also, adding additional copper anywhere within the liquid increases the power, depending on size of copper used

With the size mag rod you are using, I have had it up to 800 Ma for a short time with hydrogen peroxide

Best of luck

[plengo]

I just checked two of my zinc/aluminum alloy cells. Both are at about 3/4 of a volt. The welding rod one shows 35 mA dead shorted and the larger one that is using the chunk of alloy shows 75mA. The small one needs to be watered when it dries out but the one in the plastic box has enough water so it just keep going.

@Plengo
That self watering cell I made that is your copper cap with the Mg inside really worked out well. It has been months now running one of my Penny oscillators.

@NickZ
I was reading up on sacrificial anodes and one of the articles talked about what you were suggesting. If you use two sacrificial metals the less noble one will go first until it is gone and then the second one starts going. It is an idea worth looking into.

@All
I built a 4 cell battery today using magnesium anodes just to see if I could get my Super Joule Ringer 2.0 to run on it . It did.

Homemade battery for Super Joule Ringer 2.0 - YouTube


Lidmotor

I have to confess to see that some of you all gyus are persistent researchers.

I think that the theory of form of flow of the water in rivers has some merits. Imagine then at the size of micros, it would be a very fertile or what ever it is energy amplification.

I think that the cells indeed form a very complex pattern of flow for water. Metals are just aiding the process. Oxidation estarvation causes the metals to soffer corrosion.

There is an intrisic logic and pattern in the formation of crystals and therefore their relation with non-crystal other atoms/molecues. And i think not only physical but also logical.

Locking the water insise the cell's electrolite only will have an unstable output. Water is H2O. Oxiganated will expand the tunnels and pressure and force more throuput of water through the system with the price of compromissing the system.

Fausto.

[prato_braun]

new formula?

Sodium Silicate is mixed with zinc oxide powder in a 1:1 ratio. This is soaked in a cup with a cotton or similar thin fiber or placed over a #30 to #50 copper mesh screen.

When dried, this is wrapped around a magnesium rod, thinly coated with vaseline. The magnesium rod has a .99% silver wire attached to the top.

The “tan paste” formula consists of the following ingredients (all in a 1:1 ratio): ½ Teaspoon of Calcium Sulfate (gypsum), ½ Teaspoon of Sodium Alginate, ½ Teaspoon of Potassium Chloride (salt substitute), ½ Teaspoon of Epsom Salts and 3 drops of Visine Extra (or PEG 400). This is mixed quickly and thoroughly with distilled water to avoid air bubbles.

After this has dried, a copper mesh or sheet of thin flexible copper with a wire extending from it is wrapped around the dried “tan paste”. The copper mesh screen or copper sheets are first pre-soaked in a solution of ammonium chloride and calcium chloride in a ratio of 1:1 until the water has turned blue. The copper sheet can be “scraped” with an abrasive pad or steel wool before treating to give it a “grain”.

The wire from the copper sheet and the silver wire from the magnesium rod are both used to create d.c. voltage. When 4 or more of these are wired in series, they will easily power an LED bulb. They will run the LED for 6 weeks non-stop or charge small capacitors. After this time, adding 5 drops of water to each side of the tan paste will “recharge” the battery.

The battery cannot re-charge lead acid batteries, due to the low amperage. If a method is found to increase the amperage in such a way it can recharge lead acid batteries, than this paves a way to make a fully electric vehicle completely self-sufficient, especially in rural areas. This would include electric boats, planes, bikes and cars.

Currently these explorers have managed to charge NI-CAD batteries or a battery charger:

Hydrate crystal cell charging NiMh - YouTube

and 2cells=1 battery (part 2) + crystal cell battery charger, and foolsgold quarts cell! - YouTube

Found this formula here: Use the Power of the Universe to Rejuvenate Yourself

[Allwest]

Found this formula here: Use the Power of the Universe to Rejuvenate Yourself

Congratulations Plengo

You are featured in this article

Best of luck