I really wish i could get a hold of the Bedini's alum crystal light kit for myself and test it. But at $200 is a little too much. If i had the cell i would perform the best test i could to confirm its legitimateness. If it was the real deal i would revolt what I've said about it but until then i must keep a open mind and consider my testing on cells like it. So far my testing for alum in water will corrode magnesium ribbon within 3 days.
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Ib,
Bedini talks about all this in the conference, the dvd is very detailed, and he does talk about the importance of the quality and geometry of the cell.... he talks very enfatically about the ribbon being #1, too thin, so the white coorosion takes over the whole body of the metal and 2, ribbon is poor quality, very porous and not pure mg. so he proposes to build the cell with a very pure thick Mg rod that will form a coating of corrosion which will eventually end up protecting the rest of the rod once the mg is fully covered and you should try to find very pure magnesium anode material, dont buy loose rods, he thinks the best are the ones they sell for anodes, they use those in the ground, they have a iron core which should be removed, seems to be very pure and perform real well, not easy to find... i found some of those here
Welcome to RotoMetals, Inc - Non Ferrous Metals and Custom Alloys Call Toll Free 1-800-779-1102...
i gues only time will tell if john is right, but so far ive had great results following instructions from him, both on the batteries and with the ssg monopole... cheers
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Originally posted by cgalvisardila View PostIb,
Bedini talks about all this in the conference, the dvd is very detailed, and he does talk about the importance of the quality and geometry of the cell.... he talks very enfatically about the ribbon being #1, too thin, so the white coorosion takes over the whole body of the metal and 2, ribbon is poor quality, very porous and not pure mg. so he proposes to build the cell with a very pure thick Mg rod that will form a coating of corrosion which will eventually end up protecting the rest of the rod once the mg is fully covered and you should try to find very pure magnesium anode material, dont buy loose rods, he thinks the best are the ones they sell for anodes, they use those in the ground, they have a iron core which should be removed, seems to be very pure and perform real well, not easy to find... i found some of those here
Welcome to RotoMetals, Inc - Non Ferrous Metals and Custom Alloys Call Toll Free 1-800-779-1102...
i gues only time will tell if john is right, but so far ive had great results following instructions from him, both on the batteries and with the ssg monopole... cheers
Hi cgalvisardila, I have seen the videos he made about the crystal cells. As for the magnesium ribbon i use 99.8% pure magnesium. http://www.amazon.com/Magnesium-Ribb...gnesium+ribbon
It being thin is actually a good thing, the thinner it is the quicker it will show destructive corrosion. The bigger the magnesium the longer it takes for it to corrode. If you can make a cell that uses magnesium ribbon and doesn't corrode the magnesium ribbon would be the goal, since it is thin and easy to break. If the ribbon doesn't corrode than it would be safe to move on to bigger magnesium since you won't have to worry about it corroding. The only thing that bedini does have me at is that even though its pure magnesium the magnesium ribbon is made to be burned so some impurity's may develop on the skin of the magnesium but the magnesium is still pure (99.8% pure).
I do have one of those magnesium anodes with the iron core. How would you remove the iron core?All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Arthur Schopenhauer
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Originally posted by magnetmotorguyI saw this on youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ3RdcXOA4Q
Seems to be getting a lot of hate. I don't know, you think it's real?
Magnetmotorguy
Try this one on for size
candles make electricity - YouTube
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I do have one of those magnesium anodes with the iron core. How would you remove the iron core? [/QUOTE]
you drill through it... i've done it succesfully.
crystal dipole, yes, that's precisely what bedini suggests, you have to look at the minute details... by having a solid crystal you can water it with just a few drops, this is proven to get the cell going strong, the key is to have a porous solid crystal. having a big mg rod will give you many years of life. i have seen the experiments that fausto has shown, according to that it's evident that a white oxide around the Mg could be beneficial, and this mix only shows white corrosion. guess we just have to sit and wait to see how many years it takes to find out... if it stops the corrosion or if it takes more than 10 years to disappear completely, ill cal it a success, untill someone finds a way to not have any corrosion at all, ib... bless you man, hope you find a way, this is why we're a team.
cheers
carlosLast edited by cgalvisardila; 08-27-2012, 05:53 AM.
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Originally posted by cgalvisardila View Postib... bless you man, hope you find a way, this is why we're a team.
cheers
carlosAll truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Arthur Schopenhauer
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Originally posted by ibpointless2 View PostHi cgalvisardila, I have seen the videos he made about the crystal cells. As for the magnesium ribbon i use 99.8% pure magnesium. Magnesium Ribbons,5 Coils,65ft-75ft each,99.8% Pure GalliumSource,LLC: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
It being thin is actually a good thing, the thinner it is the quicker it will show destructive corrosion. The bigger the magnesium the longer it takes for it to corrode. If you can make a cell that uses magnesium ribbon and doesn't corrode the magnesium ribbon would be the goal, since it is thin and easy to break. If the ribbon doesn't corrode than it would be safe to move on to bigger magnesium since you won't have to worry about it corroding. The only thing that bedini does have me at is that even though its pure magnesium the magnesium ribbon is made to be burned so some impurity's may develop on the skin of the magnesium but the magnesium is still pure (99.8% pure).
I do have one of those magnesium anodes with the iron core. How would you remove the iron core?
Listing is for 5 Rods US $15.99
Magnesium Metal Rod, 15mm X 93mm, 99.95% | eBay
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Originally posted by Allwest View Postthis may be easier Magnesium Metal Rod, 15mm X 93mm, 99.95%
Listing is for 5 Rods US $15.99
Magnesium Metal Rod, 15mm X 93mm, 99.95% | eBayAll truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Arthur Schopenhauer
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Copper/Mg Tube Cell
Hey guys, just wanted to show you a short video of the latest cell I made. I've been reading the stuff about surfactants so I decided to give it a try. It's heated copper with Mg ribbon. In between is a paper towel with an alum + gain detergent mixture. It ran nearly 12+ hours at the same intensity, then I had to add a couple of drops of water to restart like most of the cells everyone has been making. I just can't see where we will ever get much in the way of amps out of these rascals. I think this one was around 10ma without load and the oscillator. I'll keep you guys updated on how the Mg holds up.
Magnesium Copper Crystal Battery Powering LED - YouTube
On another note, does anyone have a source for larger toroids, say 4" outside diameter? I'm wanting to make the lasersaber joule ringer.
Thanks in advance.
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Originally posted by br0ns0n77 View PostHey guys, just wanted to show you a short video of the latest cell I made. I've been reading the stuff about surfactants so I decided to give it a try. It's heated copper with Mg ribbon. In between is a paper towel with an alum + gain detergent mixture. It ran nearly 12+ hours at the same intensity, then I had to add a couple of drops of water to restart like most of the cells everyone has been making. I just can't see where we will ever get much in the way of amps out of these rascals. I think this one was around 10ma without load and the oscillator. I'll keep you guys updated on how the Mg holds up.
Magnesium Copper Crystal Battery Powering LED - YouTube
On another note, does anyone have a source for larger toroids, say 4" outside diameter? I'm wanting to make the lasersaber joule ringer.
Thanks in advance.All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Arthur Schopenhauer
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Hi all, John bedini posted this yesterday about the alum batteries
Carlos,
That is a good replication on the oscillator. Your right the Alum works the best except
It keeps growing. You can slow it down with a pinch of, cream of tartar. The tartar will
Clean the copper and put a coating on the magnesium.
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Thermal instead of water?
After seeing all the talk on how water breaks down everything imaginable with no way to stop corrosion - I've noticed applying heat to my cells after they have been activated causes a rather substantial rise in mA. Would it make more sense to try and find combinations that would increase amperage when heat is applied rather than continuing down the road of corrosion? I could see several cells together in a black box absorbing heat in the sun producing more power than the water cells I've been reading about on here. Thoughts?
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Originally posted by cgalvisardila View PostHi all, John bedini posted this yesterday about the alum batteries
Carlos,
That is a good replication on the oscillator. Your right the Alum works the best except
It keeps growing. You can slow it down with a pinch of, cream of tartar. The tartar will
Clean the copper and put a coating on the magnesium.
I've started to run a corrosion test on this type of cell (alum+cream of tartar+ distilled water). I started the test at 4:07PM 8-28-12 and data i collected was at 8:37PM 8-28-12. I know its a short amount of time, about 4 hours, but i've has results so far.
The positive:
-Like Bedini stated no extra crystal growth when you use tartar. With a alum cell only i would see some crystal growth at the bottom of the cell by now.
-The amps are high and stay high.
-the copper stays clean
-The magnesium ribbon does not turn black or white
The negatives:
- Its getting thinner. Normal magnesium is around .028mm but this magnesium after 4 hours is now at .019mm.
This cell reminds me of using Vinegar. A vinegar cell will not change colors, it will keep its normal color but layer by layer it will get thinner and thinner. It gives good amps but it will get so thin that nothing is left.
I would not say this is final conclusion just yet. This cell will be given more time and we will see from there. This alum and tartar electrolyte might be better to use with aluminum instead of magnesium.All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Arthur Schopenhauer
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Flawed Methods
Originally posted by ibpointless2 View PostI've started to run a corrosion test on this type of cell (alum+cream of tartar+ distilled water). I started the test at 4:07PM 8-28-12 and data i collected was at 8:37PM 8-28-12. I know its a short amount of time, about 4 hours, but i've has results so far.
The positive:
-Like Bedini stated no extra crystal growth when you use tartar. With a alum cell only i would see some crystal growth at the bottom of the cell by now.
-The amps are high and stay high.
-the copper stays clean
-The magnesium ribbon does not turn black or white
The negatives:
- Its getting thinner. Normal magnesium is around .028mm but this magnesium after 4 hours is now at .019mm.
This cell reminds me of using Vinegar. A vinegar cell will not change colors, it will keep its normal color but layer by layer it will get thinner and thinner. It gives good amps but it will get so thin that nothing is left.
I would not say this is final conclusion just yet. This cell will be given more time and we will see from there. This alum and tartar electrolyte might be better to use with aluminum instead of magnesium.
You do realize that of course the magnesium will corrode because you aren't using semi-conductive copper. And Bedini has practically shouted it from the rooftops I've heard it so many times, DO NOT USE MAGNESIUM RIBBON, it's surface structure is pitted and presents weak spots for corrosion. It's not a matter of "it's thin so it will give me a quick result", your data will be flawed from the start. Only 99.9% PURE Magnesium! It's similar to PET plastic, sulfuric acid can be safely stored in it. Normally you would think, Oh acid would eat through plastic. And you're right, but the STRUCTURE of PET doesn't allow it. So you can't keep sticking pitted ribbon in cups of water and draw conclusions from that!
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